r/travel • u/AutoModerator • Jun 11 '16
Advice Destination of the Week: Nicaragua
Weekly topic thread, this week featuring Nicaragua. Please contribute all and any questions / thoughts / suggestions / ideas / stories about Nicaragua.
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u/ifeellazy Minneapolis, MN - 34 countries Jun 16 '16 edited Jun 16 '16
Places I went in 2009 and my impressions:
Rivas: old town with not much to do. Spent the day at a local bar and had Menudo. Actually really liked it here, although it's usually skipped over for more romantic destinations nearby. Felt like just a normal Nicaraguan town, whereas most of the other places you are likely to go along the tourist trail are more unique destinations.
Ometepe: this place was great. We climbed Maderas, which is highly recommended. Bought a pineapple for ¢15. Went swimming despite some casual warnings of Lake pollution. We went to a somewhat fancy restaurant on the isthmus (like $5, a lot for us) and the man working there used a broom to ward off crows.
Grenada: I expected to like this place, but I didn't really. It's a beautiful town, but there is very little to do and it's pretty slow paced.
León: This is what I thought Grenada would be. I loved this city. Beautiful, vibrant, arty, and not overdeveloped.
Laguna de Apoyo: Magical place. The lake is extremely deep with crystal clear water. There are bioluminescent somethings in the lake, which made for beautiful night swimming.
I stayed at Monkey Hut, which was a little pricey for my budget but so worth it. Food and sundries were very pricey as well at the hostel, although there's a grocery hut down the road a ways. They lend out little kayaks which are fun to go out on. There's also a swimming platform moored about 20 feet out on the water. A great place to drink a beer and bake in the sun.
Managua: Had a very bad experience here. The city is congested and much of it is pretty dangerous. This is the only place I felt unsafe in all of Nicaragua.
Got off a bus in the wrong part of town and there was a woman who was climbing a pile of bricks to hang on to and lick a hanging electrical line. People were kind of wandering toward us. Most people looked super fucked up, drunk or high maybe? A woman ran out of her shop to us and screamed at other people to leave us alone. She said if we walk half a block in any direction we would be robbed. She flagged us a cab and made us get in it.
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Jan 07 '23
Hi from Dec 2022!
Nicaragua Trip Report - Border crossing Costa Rica to Nicaragua - Border Crossing Nicaragua to Costa Rica Details
I hope you find this short report useful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I flew in SJO (San Jose, Costa Rica), landed at 9:35 PM Dec 7th.
Stayed at the 2nd floor or departure until 1:30 AM then took an Uber to Tika bus terminal for ~ 4,070 CRC (Less than $7). Taxi would have been $25-30 USD.
Tika Cost: $32 USD, CR Departure Tax: $8 (I paid this online and showed Tica the receipt)
Departure: 3 AM from San Jose - Arrival: 2 PM Managua
Border: Paid $1 Municipality tax to Nicaragua - $13 Fees = $14 USD for Nicaragua - $8 for Costa Rica
After arriving at Managua on Dec 8th, I walked in to my hostel (20 min walk).
Sim Card: Purchased 7 days Claro. 6.5 GB for 100 Cordobas (Paid in USD cash)
I then toured Managua which was nice with all the Christmas decorations and preparations around the Malecon.
Dec 9: Left to the North Bus Terminal and took a Expresso to Somoto. 12:45 PM and arrived around 5 PM.
Somoto Canyon Tous (Google the name for their site) picked me up from the bus terminal. Stayed at their rooms for $8 USD / night + $3 / Breakfast and $4.5 / dinner. All provided by locals even food was at the local house. Was nice.
Dec 10: Started with breakfast then 6 hours tour of Somoto Canyon for $30. This was amazing. I did the 20 m jump. It was scary to be honest and I won't do it again! After the tour, we returned, had lunch (included with the tour) and then they drove me to the bus terminal.
Took 2 buses and arrived at Leon around 9 PM. Checked in my hostel.
Dec 11: Volcano Day tour is highly recommended. Very professional, friendly, on-time, and just amazing people both foreign volunteers and locals. In the morning I did Cerro Negro boarding, then we drove to El Hoyo trail (what a ride), hiked to the camp site (Took around 3 hours), watched the sunset, then had dinner and campfire, went to bed.
Dec 12: Woke up for the sunrise at 5 AM. Walked 20 min to the top with amazing Sunrise views. Then breakfast and started our descend to Lake Asososca. Took another 3 hours. Swam in the lake, then returned to Leon, had lunch. All included. Everything here (3 activities + breakfast + 2 lunches + dinner + backpack + snacks) for $85.
After arriving and lunch, I took another tour but this time Telica Sunset. Magnificent. This is usually $45 but because I took another tour with them already, I paid $40. Amazing views with the volcanic steam. You could also camp here or take the more difficult route during the day.
Dec 13: Toured Leon including its amazing cathedrals and market in the morning then head to the bus station. Took a bus to Managua then another one to Granada. Arrived at Granada around 2 PM. Checked in my hostel, walked around Granada, and then went for Masaya Volcano tour with the hostel ($22). We left at 4 PM and returned around 8 PM.
Dec 14: The hostel provided us with 2 hours free bike daily so I took the bike and toured Granada in the morning from churches to the colorful building and market. Was amazing.
After this, returned to the hostel, had breakfast, then left to the terminal again. Took a bus to Rivas. Then taxi to San Jorge, then ferry to Ometepe island.
Arrived around 1:30 PM at Ometepe. Rented a scooter for a day $15 (I dropped it 4.5 hours late so had to pay another $10 extra). Deposit was $50.
Took the scooter and went to the hostel. Stopped along the way for pics, views, and shakes. Sunset was amazing from the hostel. Hostel was in Merida.
Dec 15: After breakfast, went to San Ramon Waterfall hike. It is an easy to medium hike. Took about 2.5-3 hours round trip plus 30 min at the waterfall itself. The pool isn't deep so can't swim there (at least not during the dry season). But the waterfall is magical.
After the waterfall, toured the whole island around Maderas Volcano. Then went to the Ojo de Agua pools. I didn't have much time so spent about 1 hour. Then rode my scooter back to the hostel. Picked my backpacks and drove all the way to the ferry terminal. Dropped my scooter. Paid the extra $10. Got my $50 back and then walked up the ferry. Paid there when the person came up to collect (50 Cordobas or less than $2 USD).
Took the ferry to San Jorge and somehow all the taxis were gone by the time I arrived at the terminal (I took the last ferry). Had to walk the 1.2 hour to my hostel at night Haha. It was okay just tiring.
Dec 16: Took the bus to the first 6 AM bus from Rivas to the border. Arrived 6:45 AM. Paid $1 + $3 for departing Nicaragua. Line took less than 30 minutes. Then walked to the bus terminal.
HINT: I know I am missing something. I did NOT go into any CR immigration office. Didn't see any. Just walked along the road all the way to the terminal. A police officer asked to see my passport and didn't say anything.
So anyway, got in the bus for 2000 CRC to Liberia. Took around 2 hours. From there, took another bus for 400 CRC to the airport. Flight was delayed by 2 hours so hanged around the airport till 4:!5 PM. And landed to be welcomed by a snowstorm :)
Accommodation: I only stayed in hostels.
Food: I ate anywhere randomly and on tours or in the hostel. Didn't go to any "fancy" restaurant. Food is cheap and available. 100% had street food.
Nicaragua exceeded my expectations and became my new Central American country honestly (I have seen them all). Hope I can come back and explore more in the future.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
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u/ashvovoom Mar 22 '23
Hi! I'm doing a land border crossing in a few weeks- Costa Rica to Nicaragua, and I have a few questions! Did they check for yellow fever vaccines? And is 2 shots of Covid vaccine enough, or do you need a booster) Thanks !
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u/SixProudWalkers 16 Countries Jun 13 '16
Ometepe!! This place has my heart. I loved Nicaragua as a whole but especially this place - I was there a week ago now.
Ometepe is an island formed by two volcanos, it's actually pretty big. You can hike up either volcano, kayak in a river, hike to see beautiful waterfalls, chill on the beaches... but my favorite part about Ometepe is its culture. We stayed in Balgue at Finca Magdalena, an excellent farming co-op and hostel. There are tourists around but walk in the hills away from town and you see the farms and farmers of Nicaragua, the true people. There is a road around the volcano that Balgue is on and it's fascinating -almost purely rural setting. Just cheap comedors and country farms and little shack homes and the nicest people. It helps to know Spanish to really enrich the experience, but it's cool to observe the culture either way. Most people just pick a volcano to hike and then leave, but my friends and I spent over a week relaxing and adventuring around the island. That place has my soul.. though if you're scared of bugs stay away. It gets heavy
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u/Angelbby720 Feb 22 '23
Is it possible to drive around there or would public transport be the way to go
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Jun 14 '16
When my friend and I were 18 years old, we went on a surf trip to Nica and were graciously welcomed by scumbag officers who threatened to keep our passports and throw us in jail if we didn't give them $100. Each. And our taxi driver was totally in on the scam as well. The trip was great after that though
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u/lastdukestreetking NYC, 35+ years traveling abroad Jun 14 '16
I went to Nicaragua a couple years ago. Unfortunately, it was only for a few days. Also, it was a party trip, so we didn't get to do all that much culturally.
Went to Granada. Arrived in the evening and did a sunset boat tour around the islands. It was fine. Loaded up with some beers for the boat. Hiked around Mombacho Volcano which was a nice way to spend half a day. Drove around a couple of the white towns. One of them, I forget which, is kind of well known for its moonshine. We asked around and found a kind older man who took us to a house outside of town where they made the stuff. "Enjoyed" a couple glasses ourselves and then took a container back with us.
Then it was on to San Juan del Sur. Not a lot to talk about. It was a lot of partying. I was there for a bachelor party, so you can figure out what it was like. I will say that the beaches to the north of town are excellent. One of them, I forget the name, had a little bar with a corrugated roof, and we just set up shop there one day, drank beer, hung out with everyone and watched the surfing. Good times.
We rented a car to get around (this was 2013) from Managua to Granada to SJDS and back to Managua. No problem. I had read about cops who were notorious for shakedowns/bribes, but we never encountered anything like that. Very easy to drive around the country.
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u/whatsupcutie Airplane! Jun 12 '16
Here is a list of things to do in Granada:
- Laguna de Apoyo
- Masaya Volcano Night Hike
- Mombacho Volcano Day Hike
- Masaya Craft Market (El Mercardo Viejo)
- Ingelsia del Merced
- Mansion de Chocolate aka Pool Day!
- Catarina Village
- Granada Market
- Las Isletas
- Eat street food
Safety: Theft is an issue in the area, so use common sense. Don't carry more than $20 cash and try to leave your camera or phone in your bag. Also, there is a main street with all the restaurants and bars. Please always take a taxi at night even if you are not alone. The cab should have official red stripes above and below the license plate. The price is 20 cordobas at night and 10 during the day (per person). Always ask the price before you get into the cab since there are no meters.
I spent a week in Granada learning Spanish and staying with a host family. For details about each item listed you can read my blog here
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u/slickvik9 Jun 17 '16
I went in 2010 and stayed in Managua. I didn't feel it was dangerous but maybe that was because I stayed in a residential area, at a hotel that's basically a house owned by a German guy, it's called pyramide. The advantage of being in Managua is that you are between Granada and León. One day I took a collectivo to León that costed $2 each way. Another day the hotel owner arranged an all day driver for $70. We went to masaya, volcan masaya, Granada, and Laguna de apoyo, which is the most beautiful destination I've ever seen. All in all the country is mind boggling cheap and lots to see. Make sure to eat quesillo
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u/slickvik9 Jun 18 '16
Overall Nicaragua is a much cheaper version of Costa Rica with more to see aka lakes and volcanoes.
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u/lostboyscaw United States Jun 17 '16
In SJDS, you can hire a catamarin for like $75 a person and it includes all booze and snacks and you get to go to a private, pristine beach. This was one of the most fun thing's I've ever done, it was like straight out of a music video music blasting and all of us dancing. It helped that the other people on the boat were a lot of fun as well.
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u/slickvik9 Jul 17 '16
I would have to disagree with everyone's assertions about Managua. I am here right now and it's fine, particularly during the day. There is a new boardwalk called the malecon and its full of locals and very safe. In addition I walked from the Hilton to metrocentro every day and don't see the danger that wikivoyage claims. the mercado huembes is great, excellent prices and you can zipline on the Laguna de tiscapa. And great restaurants all over the city. The day in particular is nice and at night the malecon is good and secure. Don't believe everything you read.
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u/rg47584 Jul 24 '24
Seriously off the beaten track Nicaragua
Hi all, I'm planning to solo travel to Nicaragua in October/November for a month. I have already found lots of inspo about the typical backpacker trail there, but as I'm quite an experienced and adventurous traveler, I would love to do some seriously off the beaten track experiences.
I'm thinking multiple day deep jungle trekkings including camping at local tribes/indigenous villages, kayaking in pristine and wild rivers or jungles where normal tourists don't go. Would also love to hike a volcano that other tourists would find too long/too unknown to climb. Basically the more adventurous, sincere, and untouristy the better!
I love to meet locals who aren't used to being visited by westerners as it makes the experience more magical for both them and us.
Would love to hear about your suggestions, recommendations or experiences! Any useful contacts or tour companies that can help me fill my trip with these kind of adventures would be greatly appreciated! Photos are of course always welcome!
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u/kennymagoo Sep 17 '24
Hey everyone! I got a flight from Mexico City to Managua, but I lost my US passport. I got my emergency purple passport today but I arrive in Managua October 6th. Has anyone had problems boarding a flight to Nicaragua or entering with an emergency passport?
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u/CapAWESOMEst 7 countries for now more to go Jun 12 '16
Managua. It is a very bad place to be. It's unsafe, boring, messy, boring, sketchy, and boring. Get out ASAP.
To get from Managua to Granada or SJDS by chicken bus, walk out of the airport, cross the street and take a bus that says "Mercado Huembres" or just "Huembres". Last year they only charged $1 Córdoba. Ride it all the way. It ends at the mercado. The mercado is a market/bus terminal. You can get some food and drinks for your trip there and it's cheap.
From there you can board a bus that says either Granada (if you're going there) or Rivas (to head to SJDS). The Granada one drops you off at the edge of the city, next to a market. The Rivas one drops you off at a big dirt field with more buses. From there you can take a bus to Granada or SJDS, amongst many others. In Rivas you'll get tons of people offering you taxi rides, to take you to the right bus, or pressure you into buying crap. Just take a walk and find your bus. Ignore everyone.
Granada. It is a small town wig not much going on, but it's pretty gorgeous for a couple days relaxation. The main church and the scenic clock tower are must see things. From here you can take a ferry into Isla de Ometepe. There is also a nice treehouse hostel nearby that throws some good parties and is a great place to chill, but it's rather expensive compared to Nicaragua. They pick up and drop off on the main plaza by the archway.
San Juan Del Sur. Party capital of Nicaragua. Yes, Sunday Funday is huge on the backpacker circle, but it's pretty pricey ($25 USD) and all you get is to pool hop and a shirt. Drinks not included. The beach is lackluster, but hiking up to the Jesus statue and looking at the bay is pretty nice. Nearby surfing places like Maderas are good if that's your thing.
To get to Leon from the east (Granada, Rivas, Ometepe, SJDS) by chicken bus you need to return to Managua. Granada has buses that drop you off at the right place. The buses to Leon take off from UCA. It's a nice campus worth a walk if you have the time.
Leon. It has way more going on than Granada, but isn't as relaxed. This feels more like a small city. The buses will drop you off at a gas station that's surrounded by a market. When you get off you can ask about the Parque Central and walk there. It's a slightly sketchy ~20 minute walk. If you don't like walking, better get ready to haggle with the dozens of rickshaw drivers that will approach you. Don't pay over $30-50 cordobas. They'll likely start at a $100.
Leon has tons of hikes! I did the classic Volcano Boarding. The cool thing about that one is that if you want a party atmosphere you can go with Big Foot, but if you want a chill trip with chance of seconds, you can go with Quetzaltrekkers. Totally up to you!
Quetzaltrekkers and pretty much everyone is town has hikes to volcanos. From day hikes to multi day hikes. They get sort of pricey, but they'll likely provide food, water, and a tent.