r/travel • u/AutoModerator • Jul 11 '19
Advice r/travel Region of the Week: 'Western Tip of Africa - Mauritania, Senegal, The Gambia, Guinea-Bissau'
Hey travellers!
In this new series of weekly threads we want to focus on regions that have a lot to offer to travellers: the towns, nature, and other interesting places whether they are lesser or more known. If more known provide more in depth suggestions like tours, things to do, places to eat, etc.
Please contribute all and any questions / thoughts / suggestions / ideas / stories / highlights about this travel destination, whether it be places you want to see or experiences you have had.
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Example: We really enjoyed the Monterey Bay Aquarium in California. It was $35 each, but there's enough to keep you entertained for whole day. Bear in mind that parking on site is quite pricey, but if you go up the hill about 200m there are three $15/all day car parks. Monterey Aquarium
Unhelpful: Read my blog here!!!
Helpful: My favourite part of driving down the PCH was the wayside parks. I wrote a blog post about some of the best places to stop, including Battle Rock, Newport and the Tillamook Valley Cheese Factory (try the fudge and ice cream!).
Unhelpful: Eat all the curry! [picture of a curry].
Helpful: The best food we tried in Myanmar was at the Karawek Cafe in Mandalay, a street-side restaurant outside the City Hotel. The surprisingly young kids that run the place stew the pork curry[curry pic] for 8 hours before serving [menu pic]. They'll also do your laundry in 3 hours, and much cheaper than the hotel.
Undescriptive I went to Mandalay. Here's my photos/video.
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u/valeyard89 197 countries/254 TX counties/50 states Jul 12 '19
West Africa is a great place to travel. Senegal is one of my favorites in the region. It can be a bit frustrating and definitely eye opening if you haven't traveled in third world regions before. Visas maybe required, so check your passport requirements. I've been to all 4 of those countries, on separate trips.
Language can be a factor, it is best to know some simple French for Mauritania and Senegal. The Gambia is English-speaking. Guinea-Bissau is Portuguese.
Here's some photos from my west African trips: https://imgur.com/a/yyqoe
Transport doesn't usually run to a set schedule. There are taxi brousse (bush taxis) minibuses or beat to hell Peugeot sedans that only depart when full. And by full that can mean 10 or more people crammed in a 7-seat car. Count on about $2/hr for the price. You can buy up extra seats to depart earlier and get extra space. They typically run fixed routes with fixed prices but you can often just hire out the whole car if you need to go somewhere. Haggling is necessary here! The taxis usually depart from the gare-routiere (bus station). When crossing the border south from Mauritania at Rosso (this can be a hassle if you're not used to it.. lots of 'helpers' about) to Senegal, there are cars waiting at the border but they are more expensive. Cheaper to walk the ~1km to the bus station then catch a taxi from there.
Food is great. The French influence (Senegal was a French colony for 400 years) means baguettes and croissants are available. Senegal has its own cuisine, yassa, thiboudienne, etc.
When traveling in Mauritania you need 'fiches'. This is a copy of your passport/visa details and where you're staying/going, etc. There were several checkpoints along the way south from Nouakchott where we had to provide these. I printed up a bunch of pre-filled forms with passport details before my trip and just filled in the visa numbers later.
The drive south from Mauritania is all desert through northern Senegal, then slowly starts giving way to the Sahel arid region. Guinea Bissau and The Gambia are very green compared with northern Senegal.
Money. Senegal and Guinea-Bissau use the West African CFA regional currency. It is tied to the Euro. Mauritania and The Gambia have their own currencies. I was able to use ATMs just fine everywhere, though in Ziguinchor we had to try several ones before we found one that worked.
If you like old French colonial architecture, don't miss Saint-Louis. This was the capital of the French West Africa for several hundred years and is packed with crumbling buildings. The town is located on an island with streets laid out in a grid pattern.
Choice of accommodations can be limited and not generally good value for money.. there really aren't hostels in West Africa. Some towns may only have one or two places to stay and likely aren't bookable online. Best choices are in the capital cities and Ziguinchor. Bissau was the most expensive place we stayed, over $100/night (but I split with travel buddy).
Visas. You will likely need a visa for Mauritania, Guinea-Bissau and possibly The Gambia. When I visited I also needed a visa for Senegal but they did away with the requirement. Aussies, Brits, Candians and most Europeans don't require a visa for The Gambia, but Americans, French and Spanish do require one. For Mauritania you can get a visa on arrival at the airport but not at land borders (best place is to get in Rabat if coming from Morocco). Guinea-Bissau supposedly you can also get a visa on arrival at the airport (not at land borders), or there is an e-visa option (https://www.rgb-visa.com/). We got our visa in ~20 minutes at the consulate in Ziguinchor but make sure that option is still available.
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u/tmkftmkf Jul 15 '19
Does anyone have any experience traveling Senegal speaking little to know French? I am considering heading there in January, but I am not sure what to expect.
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Jul 17 '19
January is six months away. You have six months to learn the basics in French to help make your trip easier. There is no other answer than this.
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u/sierranevada007 Jul 12 '19
This is an amazing region of the world yet so few westerners visit! I've had the chance to visit all four of these countries and thought I'd share a few highlights/must-do's/suggestions for each.
Mauritania:
-Nouakchott is not a very interesting city. Stay a day, maybe two, but the magic of Mauritania is not here. The National Museum is worth a visit.
-After a short time in Nouakchott, I chartered a helicopter to Atar, where I then spent 4 days exploring oases and dunes. This is a stereotypical Sahara desert experience but definitely a must-do.
-Next, with a hired driver, onto Choum it was! There it was time to board the Iron Ore train which takes you on a 16 hour journey from Choum to the city of Nouadhibou on the coast. There are lots of blogs and trip reports all over the web about riding the train, so I don't need to go into much detail here. I will say that you need at least 2L of water per person, you need to bring food (which you will share with others, meals are impromptu and communal), and you need a scarf to cover your head. Viewing the desert rushing by from inside a hopper car on one of the longest trains in the world is an unforgettable experience and truly one of the best ways to see the Sahara. I highly recommend watching this National Geographic short film if you're interested: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/video/shorts/1264477251753/
-3 days in Nouadhibou exploring the coastline and eating seafood (which is spectacular btw) served as an awesome conclusion to the trip.
Senegal:
-Dakar is amazing. If I exclude the cities of South Africa, Dakar is my third favorite city on the continent after Nairobi and Kigali. Dakar is one of the best (and most underrated) food destinations in Africa. Don't go in expecting anything higher-end like you may in Cape Town (see: The Test Kitchen), and you will be pleasantly surprised. Great French, Indian, Moroccan, and (as one might expect) Senegalese food. As someone who enjoys the relaxation of a nice hotel, Dakar is a refreshing opportunity for that in a region of the world (West Africa) where nice hotels are few and far between. I've stayed at the Pullman and the Radisson Blu, and they are both great choices right by the ocean.
-Lac Rose (aka Lake Retba/Pink Lake) is an hour outside of Dakar and a must-do if you have more than 2 days in the city. It is one of the most surreal things I have ever seen.
-My only proper trip into the rest of the country was north to the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. It was nothing like your typical African safari but was memorable side-trip. Again, a helicopter charter from Dakar offered easy access (compared to what I believe is otherwise a 6-hour drive).
-Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to explore the southern part of Senegal, which is largely separated from the north by The Gambia. I'm curious about Ziguinchor (has anyone here been?). If I find myself in Senegal again I will be sure to visit Niokola-Koba National Park. I've seen some lovely photos from the park that piqued my interest.
The Gambia:
-The Gambia is a fascinating country completely defined by geography. The border follows the winding path of The Gambia River, with the country jutting from the ocean into Senegal like a snake slithering into the jaws of a predator (Weird comparison? Maybe. Accurate and fun? Yep). The capital of Banjul sits at the mouth of the river, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean.
-Serekunda is a decent city. When it comes to things to do, you'll either be at the beach or the many nature reserves within the city. I had 3 days to take it in and thought it was plenty. The Tanji Bird Reserve about a half hour out of town was my favorite of the reserves, though it doesn't match the experience to be had at Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary in Senegal.
-Ngala Lodge is without a doubt the best choice for accommodations in Serekunda. The rooms are quite nice, especially compared to other options in the region. The location is unbeatable and the general vibe is relaxing and laid back.
-Banjul is a charming and vibrant city, a must visit for a day or two. The Gambia National Museum is the highlight attraction where I spent a half day. It's tiny but filled with information and artefacts. Albert Market located at the very end of the island on which Banjul sits is chaotic and eye-opening. I wouldn't have been comfortable going alone (and I don't recommend you go alone, even if you're a man, because it's good to have someone who can watch your back for pickpockets) but luckily I had others with me.
-The highlight of the country isn't the cities on the coast, but rather the river that shapes the nation. I highly recommend a boat tour up the river, but be cautious and do your research beforehand as to a suitable tour company. There are limited options, unfortunately. I used Lam's Tours and had a fantastic experience. You'll come to realize the extent of how important the river is to everything.
Guinea-Bissau:
-I only spent a day and a half in the capital of Bissau (enough to see the National Ethnographic Museum) as I wanted to focus the majority of the trip on the archipelago which lies only a short distance off the coast, the Bijagos Islands. The following will help exactly 0 people reading this, but for the sake of telling a bit of the story of my visit, I'll share. The only reason I ended up in Guinea Bissau is because of a friend I have in Lagos, Nigeria. I was texting him about planning my next vacation, to which he suggested Guinea Bissau, and proposed the idea of meeting me there. You see, he isn't your ordinary Nigerian. He is, simply put, very well-off. His proposal was to bring his yacht from Lagos to Bissau, where my husband and I would meet him, and we would sail the Bijagos Islands, explore beaches, and dive with turtles for a week. I couldn't pass up the offer, so my husband and I booked our flights. As an aside, being able to drop everything and go when an opportunity arises can give you memories of a lifetime. If you have the luxury of taking time off work on very short notice, allow yourself to be flexible and take life as opportunities come.
-Regarding a few specific islands, Poilão gives off Hawaii vibes (petrologically), while Rubane had some of the best beaches. The diving experience offered in the archipelago is one of the best in the world, up there with the Maldives, Seychelles, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Criminally underrated.