Let's say for a Lexus or Mercedes.

TL;DR - My current car that I’ve had since 2021 is having issues that the shop has attempted to diagnose and repair twice, yet I’m still having the same or similar issue. I only owe $3k on my car now, is it worth it to trade it in instead of continuing to pay for repairs?

My car started having issues with “hiccuping” while accelerating that progressively got worse. I was told by two shops that all fuel injectors needed to be replacing, which totaled to about $3800. I then experienced an issue after that repair where my car’s RPM bounces at idle occasionally. I returned to the shop and was told it was misfiring still and I needed new spark plugs, another $600 repair.

Today I had the exact same bouncing RPM issue. At this point I just feel frustrated continuing to pay for repairs that aren’t resolving the issue with my car. I realized with the cost of repairs, I could’ve just paid off the rest of my car by now.

I’ve never traded in a car before and began looking into the process while still financing a car. From what I can gather, my car is worth about $3k-$5k (2017 VW Passat), which would pay the rest of the financing. Can anyone give me insight as to whether or not this would be a logical move?

1994 Cutlass Wagon, suddenly started shaking, losing acceleration with sudden high-revving on the highway. Pulled into a lot, had a rough idle and a very rough reverse. Took it to shop. They had it a week—no estimate, just “It’s done, boss.” They replaced 1 spark plug and some wires. Picked it up, same problems with a slight improvement. Opened the hood and it looks like this.

How would it affect the engine?

I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 4.8 I might need better, gaskets but pushrods I don’t really trust myself ordering those, but besides that, what else would I really need? And if anything, how much would a dyno tune cost?

So long story short, my Father and Brother drove the family van from Great Bend, KS to Denver, CO for the Falcons/Broncos game. About an hour outside Denver the car died. Based on symptoms I'm going to assume the alternator went out.

Unfortunately, my family is not in a financial place to handle this best case scenario. So towing long distances isn't an option. If somehow they were able to get the alternator, they'd have no way to do the repair there or get it to a shop.

I'm not a car guy myself, so idk what options there are to help remedy these issues and was wondering if anyone had any insight?

2005 Chrysler Town & Country4

Hi. I own an Alfa Romeo 147 1.9 JTD. I got a engine warning light saying “MOTOR CONTROL SYSTEM FAILURE”. a friend told me that it could be this little missing tube that just fell out of my car, but he doesn’t know where it belongs, or if that is the source of the issue.

anywhere specific i should look? i need my engine rebuilt with new rods and pistons and gaskets.

i have called two and they told me they work exclusively on muscle cars.

Hi everyone,

I have a 1996 Toyota Corolla E110 (European version) with the 4E-FE engine. My car has never undergone any modifications to the engine, but the parts that came with it as stock (like the 65mm throttle body, the aluminum tubular intake, and the 4-2-1 headers) are commonly used to enhance performance in the Starlet. These parts were actually factory-fitted in my Corolla. The car was manufactured in Japan in 1995 and registered in Spain in 1996.

Here’s the situation: the official specs on my car show it has 75hp, but I can’t help feeling that it feels more powerful than that. I’ve driven a 3.0 D4D and even a 1.4 VVTi, and when comparing them, my Corolla feels faster in terms of acceleration. I’ve also had a friend who drives a 2.0 D4D (and has driven cars like the E36 1.8 and a Clio 1.3 and some others more) take my car for a spin, and he agreed that it feels like it’s got more punch than the official numbers suggest.

The car feels very agile, and I’m quite impressed with the acceleration, especially on twisty, rally-style roads. The downside is that I do feel limited by the short gear ratios, which restrict the top speed.

So, here’s my question: Could my car actually be delivering closer to 100hp despite the official 75hp rating? I know that the Gen1 4E-FE engine in Japan made 100hp, and since my car seems to have a very similar setup, I wonder if it’s possible that it’s actually producing that much power. Could it be that the power output was limited for regulatory reasons when it was brought to Europe? Or is it possible that my car is naturally running at a higher output than the official specs suggest?

Would love to hear any thoughts or insight on this!

Hi all,

Just bought an 2018 Opel Insignia (1.6 cdti) with 86.000 km and it is a joy to drive but I have this issue with the cold start idle.

When the car starts cold with a/c on, the revs are quite jumpy indicating the engine is not compensating for the extra load necessary to run the a/c.

The oscillations stop after 30 seconds and never does it again until next day when the engine is cold again. When warm everything works like clockwork. (Start and stop, idle, voltage is perfect, etc.)

What could be the issue?

Is the compressor pulley starting to give up? Solenoids? MAF? Throttle body? Carbon buildup?

I never had this issue before therefore i don't even know where to start.

Just for shits and giggles what could I do to add some hrsprs to my 96 ford explorer. It’s the 4.0 v6 I think, just wondering what I could do to give it some more ‘umph’ lol what would the process of putting a turbo in it look like aswell if anyone knows? Just curious probably won’t ever have the money to actually do that lol

compact supercharger on 3.5 v6 accord 09’. is it possible??!

Need advice

I am needing to sell my older car as it has many issues. I can't afford to fix the issues but I'm wanting to get some money for the car to put towards another older car. It has been a good car with good maintenance.

Is it best just to post it, as is ?

So I've had this car going onto 3 years now, I really want to make it something worth driving, I've thought about getting a preformance chip just to make it somewhat better and smoother but wasn't sure if that's a way to go. I know my current car doesn't have alot of HP but I'd love to get it there ik I can engine swap other V4s, just don't have the money right this second but my specs are 2016 dodge dart sxt 2.0L, anyone also know by chance if I can make it a turbo like the other dodge darts?

So for example if a 2mm spacing plate was added to each valve, would this increase the lift by that amount, the exact same way a 2mm taller lobe on a camshaft would?

2002 civic manual. 338,000km on motor. Slammed on brakes for a guy that almost pulled out in front of me. Immediately afterwards in 4th and 5th gear whenever I would hit 3k rpms the revs would just climb with no acceleration and car would not go past 80kmph. Checked oil, seemed a little low so I topped it off. Car now feels normal however whenever between 2.5k-3k rpms it will rev high for just a moment with no noticeable increase in power for like a second and then is fine 3k rpms plus and will go to normal top speed again now. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

When it starts it shoots straight to 2k rpm and then after about 30 seconds it does what’s shown in the video. It goes down to 0 and then back to 1 and runs like normal after. Is this normal? I’ve never seen it with any other car.

Lapping the valves on my LS engine for the first time, reusing the factory valves on the heads they came with. But I mixed up the valves. the seat and valve after using the grinding compound has a nice even grey finish on them. With no gaps. Is this done?

2006 Saturn Ion 3. 205,000 miles

I finally got a regular oil change and now the engine is running weird and stalling. I have been smelling burning oil.

My thought is to get another oil change that might get some more gunk out? Would that help do you think?

What would be a best recommendation?

My car usually "cranks" ~3 times before it turns over (1 key turn, 2.5 "chugs" then startup).

Recently, it's been a bit all over the place. 4 chugs then turnover, 3 chugs then turnover and a low idle, 2 chugs and starting right up, 3 chugs and high idle.

Winter is just starting, so I'm pretty sure it's normal, I just wanted to get some opinions.

Every time so far it has only ever been a single key turn, but I'm a bit of an overthinker/worrywart.

I boosted my 99 civic it’s a d16 y8 but I noticed that when I pull the oil dip stick it releases air pressure any know if that’s normal or are my pistons bad ?

I bought a used Corolla off of a lot at the end of Oct and had zero issues for about a month. Sometime in Dec it started to shut off randomly about twice a week then would start back up fine. In Jan it began to crank a few times before it would start back up. Then one day the battery light came on the dashboard so I took it into a local mechanic. They told me it was the alternator but after taking it home from them it was worse than before. I called them and said "bro this ain't fixed" so the second time I took it in they told me they had accidentally installed a bad alternator and would replace it with one they made sure was charged, but they also found a problem with the crankshaft position sensor. This was missed during their first diagnosis due to idk, so they suggested to replace that too. Everything was fine for a couple of days until it shut off again. I took it to them 1 more time and the mechanic offered to take it home with him for a couple of days so he can have the diagnostic machine plugged in while he drove it around. He said with him it didn’t shut off once and the car is perfectly fine. I guess I have to believe him because it does it very intermittently. Sooo… idk. It shuts off right after starting the engine but it hasn't shut off while driving around, only when I first start the car. And it’s usually after it's been driven around for the day, only once or twice a week randomly. It doesn't show any codes and sometimes I have to step on the gas when it dies, to start it back up. The alternator and crankshaft sensor have been replaced and the mechanic says theres nothing that can be diagnosed. Thanks for reading this far, pls what does this car want from me.

I’m cheap. Want to add power. Nitrous is by far the least expensive way to accomplish this, BUT, the tuner I spoke with said that my nitrous tune will pull timing at night RPM, and actually cost me 10-15 horsepower when the system isn’t armed…

I’d like to hear from people who have nitrous on their cars, and hear your experience with leaving the system armed for extended periods.

My intention would be to run a remote bottle opener, so the system could Literally be armed and ready to use with just a few switches flipped, and purging the lines.

I would like to know how long it would typically take to bring the bottle temp up, so I have proper pressure. Would it be bad to run the bottle heater on a separate circuit than the purge and solenoid controls so the bottle is always heated to the proper pressure?

Thanks.

2005 chevy malibu maxx lt V6 3.5L. 200k miles

I’ve driven like 3k miles. It felt slow to begin with,but it was at its best after i changed the air filter, oil filter, spark plugs, spark wires, and the pcv. I also cleaned the throttle body and ejr.

Car feel extra slow now, the idle is super rough and choppy. My long fuel trims are like -14. You can smell gas under the hood, but can’t find a leak. I do have a massive hole in between my cat and muffler, but it’s been there since I got it. Also my EVAP_VP was literally -8100Pa. Two of my 02s are bouncing voltage, ones staying around 0.8v and the last is staying around 0.1v

Another thing, when i remove the MAF it idles a bit smoother. After seeing this i cleaned it with MAF cleaner, made no difference.

Also, 4 of my fuel injectors are completely inaccessible for testing with the car on (they’re underneath the upper intake manifold). My coils are also all in one unit, so i can’t remove individual cylinders unless i pop the spark plug wires.

I have more live data so please ask for what is necessary. I don’t know much but I am here to learn. Dealership is never an option. If you can help me diagnose my rough idle and power issues please reach out!

Edit: The cat hole is actually half of the flex pipe is ripped off.

Hey everyone, I’ve got a bit of a mess going on. I got a check engine light around 84k miles, P1101 figured it’s the mass air sensor as there hadn’t been an issue. A couple thousand miles after, I start experiencing minor delay in pedal to acceleration, and some rough shifting from park to drive. The acceleration issue happened a couple times and seemed to end, drove perfectly fine for a good year after, didn’t pay much mind to the shifting as no lights came on and car wasn’t due for any maintenance, figured it’s just aging. Fast forward to 101k miles almost on the nose, about 2 weeks ago. I had left work and gone to a friends house, about 15 miles of highway basically from my job to the driveway and everything’s fine, just got it’s oil changed earlier that day and it’s running smooth as ever. However, leaving a couple hours later, I shifted to drive and it was slamming, the shifting never got worse before until this sudden episode. After hardly pressing on the gas the engine sputtered like it was stalling and the car hesitated to move, I immediately parked and restarted the car, drove home fine with some vibration somewhere along the drivetrain. At this point I check myChevrolet where I see it’s requesting service on the transmission - TCM. The next day it’s driving fine again, but over the next week it’s repeating this same exact scenario randomly. While driving one night, I can narrow down the vibration coming from what I believe is the engine- not the transmission. I got a BlueDriver OBD2 scanner to find out exactly what codes are coming up, and I got P06DD, P0700, P1101, and P0826. At this point I’m not sure what the up/down switch code means, but I’m assuming from the P06DD it’s my oil pressure sensor. It makes perfect sense, all this started the night after an oil change at Jiffy Lube (i know i know, i hate it there too, but another friend gave me a discount there and moneys tight so I did it) so maybe the sensor got dirty somehow in the process, and sending out false pressure readings might be causing the sputters then running fine after restarting it? I order a new one, make an appointment with a local mechanic, and am currently waiting. Now tonight, nothing particularly bad happened but I just felt like my car was sluggish and riding rough at 70mph/1900-2100rpm. I intentionally didn’t go higher and ended up coming down in speed around 5mph due to staying at lower RPM, but I ran codes again as soon as I parked. When I ran them, my ignition was on and I had not tried clearing any codes. A ton of BCM codes are coming up now, I thought maybe it’s an error since I ran them with the engine running. I turned my car off, then started the battery without lighting the engine, and cleared the codes. When I started the car back up, my anti-theft light stayed on with the following codes remaining: P1101, B3006, C0750, B101E. Once again driving fine, unlike my ride home. The following are all of the codes reported when I ran it before clearing (of course I saved them im only dumb, not stupid) but I’m at a loss. Could this be as simple as an ECM update + trans fluid swap, another oil change, and maybe a new oil pressure sensor + mass air sensor if that’s a separate issue? Also, my key battery and car battery are fine. I’d greatly appreciate any advice before my dealership tries to screw me.

Codes were as follows. BCM:::: B3006- Hood ajar circuit malfunction; B3060- Unprogrammed transponder ID code received; B3109- Keyless entry transmitter low battery; B3205- LF/Driver window motor circuit malfunction; B3935- Transponder Authentication; C0B00- Timing belt; C0755- Right Front Ti Pressure Sensor; C0760- LR low Ti pressure sensor malfunction; C0765- Right Rear Ti Pressure Sensor; B101E- Electronic Control Unit Software; C0750- LF low ti pressure sensor malfunction; U0422- Invalid Data Received From Body Control Module; U2099- High Speed Communication Enable Circuit - Not Plausible::: ECM/misc:::: B1011- ???; P06DD- Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off; P0700- Transmission ControlSystem (MIL Request); P1101- Induction Air Measurement - Cross-check Out of Range