r/Cosmetology • u/No_Pattern_1498 • 3d ago

Shear Sizes & Cross-Checking Confusion

I’ve got a couple of questions that have been bugging me after class today, and I’d love some input.

  1. Shear Sizes: When I first started, we were told shear size (5.5” vs 6”) was mostly personal preference. But today, my instructor insisted that 6” is required for standard cutting and 5.5” should only be used for layers. Is this a hard rule elsewhere, or is there flexibility?

  2. Cross-Checking & Styling: My instructor also said we shouldn’t use a round brush after a cut—instead, we should blow-dry straight + flat iron to see the “true” cut. His reasoning was that clients won’t always style their hair, so we need to see it perfectly smooth. But… doesn’t that ignore how most people actually wear their hair? Like if they wanted a blowout what would I do wet the hair down again? He said this was salon reality but I've never seen anyone do this.

Am I overthinking this, or are these “rules” more situational? Would love to hear how you all handle these things in your work!

Anyone else’s instructors flip-flop on “rules” like this?

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u/TigerEye138 3d ago

  1. Shear size is personal preference! No matter how short or long your blades are, they all do the same thing… they cut the hair. I’ve been in the business for over 20 years and I’ve seen stylists use all lengths of shears, but only because they were more comfortable with them, and not dependent on what kind of haircut they’re giving. I prefer a longer blade, and I use them for everything from short men’s haircuts to medium/long layered cuts to one length bobs. As long as your blades are sharp, the length makes no difference, they just have to feel comfortable to you. However, it is very possible that you may find yourself switching it up depending on the haircut (again because of comfort)… you may feel more comfortable using shorter shears to cut around someone’s ears, but then a longer shear might give you more control when it comes to chipping into layers for texture…. Bottom line, there is no requirement that says you have to use a certain length shear for certain haircuts, as you originally were told, it’s personal preference

  2. I’m likely misunderstanding your second question, but when your instructor said your client won’t usually style their hair so you have to flat iron it to see the true cut… he’s correct to some extent, but that’s not always necessary because, as you pointed out, that’s kind of silly if the client won’t be styling their hair that way. You will come to learn that every head of hair is different and should be treated differently. There is no need to go through all that just to cross check your work for every client. Now, if you have a client with curly hair and they do straighten it often, then yes, you will want to see how their hair will look once it’s straightened, but in that case you would be better off straightening first and cutting it dry to see how it will lay. I also don’t understand his reasoning as to why not use a round brush, a round brush is one of the best tools when blow drying curly hair with the intent of straightening. Round brushing will leave you with a softer look, and if you’re going for the super straight look then a flat iron can be used to finish the hair off. The super straight look will certainly help you find any flaws in your haircut, but again, only if your client actually wears their hair that way.

No offense to your instructor, I’m sure they know their stuff, but I feel as though they’re trying to be unnecessarily high class and fancy here, tell you things are are helpful, but acting like they’re a requirement. Good on you for asking good questions though!! You’ll be a master before you know it! And sorry for the long reply lol, I hope at least some of that made some kind of sense 😆

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u/madness0102 Hair Stylist 3d ago

For shears; it’s very personal imo.

I was taught to measure the length of my thumb to the bottom of my palm in a straight line and that’s the length I “should” use. IMO it’s a good starting point. I found later that I prefer slightly longer shears! But I appreciated having a point to start with!

My coworker uses like 4 or 4.5 in shears. I feel like I’m cutting with kids scissors when I’ve had to borrow hers lol but they work perfectly for her!