r/DarkTable 3d ago

Discussion Ready to jump

I'm ready to make the jump from Lightroom to Dark Table. Besides the the obvious changes in interfaces, etc., what do I need to be aware of?

I'm especially interested to know what I need to do in importing my existing raw photo files.

10 Upvotes

30 comments sorted by

11

u/-The_Black_Hand- 3d ago

I recently made the transition and don't regret it.

Just know that for everything Lightroom does, theres about 4 different modules with 20 sliders and settings in Darktable that basically do the same thing.

Just pick the module that works for you and forget the others (at the beginning at least). You can still get into the nitty gritty later on.

One thing that you want to learn first is how to use parametric masks. From what I know, a "magic wand selection tool" is in the making for Darktable, but as of now, you need to go with parametric / drawn / pathed masks.

P.S. : if you have problems with White Balance, make sure the "color calibration" module is set to "bypass". Drove me nuts.

10

u/dian_01 3d ago

Color calibration is the single best feature of darktable. You can use it to color correct (otherwise) impossible color shifts, that the regular white balance can't. If you manage to ignore the regular WB slider and use the Color Calibration, you will get better results.

1

u/Mrcalpurnius 3d ago

Thanks

3

u/Dannny1 3d ago

Few of the "killer" features you can take advantage of in darktable:

  • waveform and vectorscope display
  • ability to export also masks withing output image file for use in bitmap editor
  • ability to make mask folow edges with a slider, so you don't have to make it so precise
  • ability to use modules with different blend modes and opacities

...

8

u/Donatzsky 3d ago edited 3d ago
  1. The best place to get help is discuss.pixls.us
  2. This is the tutorial to start with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CmsxxxsMDs It covers the basic workflow and some things you need to know.
  3. Don't be afraid to read the manual. It probably has the answers to your questions.
  4. Bruce Williams (https://youtube.com/@audio2u) has videos explaining most modules and features.
  5. Boris Hajdukovic (https://www.youtube.com/@s7habo) is the darktable wizard. Watch him religiously.
  6. Forget everything you think you know based on how you did it in Lightroom. Darktable is very different and requires a different way of thinking about the edit.
  7. DT will import some basic bits from your LR edits, but the code is old and uses outdated modules. You're probably best off discarding the history and starting over.

2

u/Sylanthus 3d ago

You linked to Bruce twice btw!

2

u/Donatzsky 3d ago

Fixed ;)

1

u/Mrcalpurnius 3d ago

Thanks

2

u/Donatzsky 3d ago

Some things I forgot:

The FAQ has answers to some questions you're likely to have as a new user: https://www.darktable.org/about/faq/

The Darktable Landscapes YouTube channel is solid. He also has some videos specifically for Lightroom refugees. https://www.youtube.com/@DarktableLandscapes

This discussion on Lightroom imports might be of interest: https://discuss.pixls.us/t/import-from-lightroom-to-darktable-doesnt-apply-edits-on-windows-5-01/49065

1

u/Mrcalpurnius 3d ago

Thanks. Dark Table Landscapes was a channel I added early in my search because I shoot a lot of landscape. I was impressed with his workflow and results.

3

u/This_Is_The_End 3d ago

Take a look at

https://www.youtube.com/user/s7habo/videos

He is best. Take your time. He will even teach som color theory

For a fast introduction watch Bruce Williams.

3

u/No_Reveal_7826 3d ago

I've tried to make the jump twice and failed. For me it isn't about the editing features, but the lack of integration with other apps. I like that I can work in Lightroom and then take the image into Photoshop or Topaz and then come back to Lightroom with the new image in my catalog. So while you may be focused on feature-set, I'd recommending testing your whole workflow.

3

u/dian_01 3d ago

There is a LUA plugin just to do that, works on my mac and I does edit my photos through darktable + affinity.

2

u/Dannny1 3d ago

It's even better with darktable, you can export mask alongside the image data in the same output file, so you don't even have to redo masks in bitmap editor again. And so you can take advantage of the superior masking abilities of darktable even outside of the app and save time.

2

u/Sylanthus 3d ago

Hey! I know there are lots of videos linked already, and those creators like Boris H are who I personally learned from as well.

But I just created my own tutorial and have gotten really positive feedback on it. I tried to take all I’ve learned from these other creators and condense everything into a single simple workflow that makes it clear what modules to use for each action (contrast, clarity, etc).

I also credit every creator I learned the most from in the description.

Please check it out if that sounds useful to you!

https://youtu.be/ZUc6LOzg_Nk?si=Dzc07cbYXB0UZcQ3

1

u/Mrcalpurnius 3d ago

Thanks!

1

u/Sylanthus 3d ago

No worries! Please let me know if you end up watching, and what you think!

2

u/plenar10 3d ago

You need a separate DAM to manage all digital assets, like videos. I use digikam.

2

u/OKComplainer 3d ago

More of a mindset thing -- be patient, it can be an adjustment, expect some bumps along the road. Darktable takes some work and time to learn but in my experience much less than people complain about. Well worth the freedom in my opinion

2

u/LateJunction 2d ago edited 2d ago

You have been given a very wide-ranging and useful set of replies here, most of them focused on the use of the darkroom aspects of darktable. You should also carefully consider the lighttable aspects, especially how you are going to organise your images differently – or maybe not. That’s the route I chose 5 years ago: retain my existing Lightroom image organisation. But now you have the two options: to not only ‘add to library’ – retaining your file names as well as folder structure unchanged, but also to ‘copy and import’.

The latter technique allows you to use the ‘job code’ – i.e. ‘import job’ entry box, above the naming rules panel on ‘copy & import’ panel, together with the ‘filmroll name’ (see <preferences><session options> or in the naming rules on the ‘copy & import’ panel). This gives you all the flexibility you will need for renaming files and folders on import, to create a completely new/different organisation and naming protocol – including the option 'do not change’.

I suggest you make a copy, via the clipboard, of the default settings of the file naming rules in preferences and keep these in a simple text file stored, for example, where darktable has stored its darktablerc file. Then if you ever want to edit those naming rules to suit your needs, you have a pattern from which to work. I found this process invaluable at first and would even have raised a request for this function on GIT, but understood the developers have got much more useful things to get on with.

You should thoroughly study the manual to understand the use of the ‘Variable Names’. They are powerful and will enhance what you can do when you are transferring your images from LR to dt.

Finally, let me say that I have no regrets whatsoever about getting out of Adobe Prison. I have not opened LR since 2020 and recently vapourised all the catalog and back-up folders. I now use software from a 'company' which is worthy of respect, and which is a source of satisfaction rather than anger. And that 'company' is so supportive, through this forum and other places, like pixls.us. There are some VERY talented people in the dt community. It's way more than adequate for my needs.

1

u/dian_01 3d ago

The main three things you have to learn to get started is

  1. The difference between scene referred and display referred processing. Learn FilmicRGB and Sigmoid module. Start with Simoid, it's a bit simpler than the FilmicRGB, but IMO the FilmicRGB is the better option
  2. Exposure! It works just a bit different than in any other RAW editor, and with the scene referred editing workflow it behaves differently, so make shure to properly get a grasp on what you are doing.
  3. Color Correction module is the game changer tool (at least for me). Use it as a white balance tool, and just ignore the regular White Balance module, leave it as is. It can correct color shifts, that are impossible with the regular WB.

The other modules are way more self discribed than these three IMO. If you find anything unclear, lookup the documentation if you don't understand what the said module is doing.