r/metalworking • u/numahu • 1d ago
Metal cut off saw modifications
I got a used Evolution Rage 4 carbide cut off saw with the orange multi purpose blade. Cut off quality is pretty nice and an good improvement over hacksaw and file... Some slight ripples are normal for the low tooth number blades? However, I could imagine anice improvements: -Work pice light (cant realy see my markings on the left side) -line laser for easy adjusting -Stiffer clamp -A way to hold short workpieces(might need a real machine vise) -Clamp the cut off pice -length stop for workpiece some points could certainly be realised with simple modifications, others would certainly require a new base plate... have any of you modified your saw or built your own that could provide interesting approaches?
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u/fortyonethirty2 1d ago
The situation in your 3rd picture can be helped by using another clamp (or two) to hold the stock onto the fence. You just need to find the right size c-clamp that is big enough to clamp the stock to the fence but small enough to not interfere with the cut.
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u/Imjustd1Fferent284 1d ago
No, just use a scrap piece to put behind the piece you’re cutting so it clamps down evenly.
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u/ozzie286 1d ago
You're still going to just be holding a little bit of the workpiece. Needs more clamping area no matter what.
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u/AraedTheSecond 1d ago
My usual cheat is to sandwich the workpiece and the backer.
So you have a scrap piece at the back to make the distance up, then a piece of 25x10(mm) or 1" x1/2" stock that sits across both pieces. Then tighten the clamp. It increases the clamp area, doesn't need messing around with like the c-clamps, and is easily changed for the next size of stock
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u/Interesting-Ant-8132 1d ago
I agree you need better clamping before looking at anything else. Alternatively try clamping the scrap end of the workplace to the table. You can put some stock under the table so you're not on the corner if you need to. You could even bolt the scrap end down if you dont have anything else.
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u/Ultimatespacewizard 1d ago
Just start with larger stock or use different tools if you need to cut a small piece. This just really isn't the right tool for cutting little pieces.
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u/joesquatchnow 1d ago
I’ve read the comments and some sound advice there , my first impression was one of the teeth are bent or missing
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u/Roflcoptarzan 1d ago
Clamp a 2x2 piece of wood in with the stock and keep reusing it with the miter right up to the city zone. And wear ppe
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u/HiTekRetro 1d ago
Make an extension for your clamp with several sets of holes so it can be moved. If you use 1/4 X 2 bar, you can countersink the holes and use flat head screws and wing nuts to attach it to the swivel head. Always use a piece of the same material you are cutting on the other side of the vice screw to keep the pressure equal.. Those cuts are not very clean which means they will not be accurate. A proper cut will have very little burr. You may be pushing to hard too.. The blade may need sharpening, bearings in the motor and pivot head may be going bad., A ZERO clearance bed wouldn't hurt either...
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u/nom_of_your_business 1d ago
Your bar is stiffer than that stamped worksurface that your clamps are attached to. You will not be getting a good cut with this setup even with a vise. Get your workholding surface beefed up and your cuts will get way better.
P.S. you are lucky that carbide didn't turn into shrapnel.
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u/Buffalo_John 18h ago
Yup as many others have said - you have a work-holding problem and it is the movable jaw.
However, I have an Evo Rage saw and the fixed jaw is poor as well.
If it were me and I had to try the angled cut, I would make the fixed jaw stiffer (even to the point of replacing that jaw with 1/4" steel angle and have more than one bolt down point so the fixed jaw won't move or lift no matter how you tighten the movable jaw. Then I would stiffen and extend the movable jaw so it can be way closer to the cut area. Then, you don't want the movable jaw at that angle. You need pressure on the work piece close to the cut. So you need to have a piece of material on that movable jaw to make it have the ability to clamp the entire workpiece. The only pressure is the axis of the screw on that movable jaw, so you have to figure out how to transfer the force along the workpiece - firmly over as much distance as possible.
I ditched the Evo saw, too hard to fix the vice, I thought. Bought a Makita, significantly stiffer fixed jaw.
Also, a stiffer blade will help, I thought the wobble on my stock EVO blade was awful. Diablo makes a nice blade, much stiffer. If you hear ringing, that can be from wobble...
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u/ArmParticular8508 1d ago
To hold short pieces just place a piece of tube of the same dimensions next to the one you are cutting, as for making a bumpstop to cut at 45 degrees, I just marked a line with a piece of blade and just make sure you are up to that mark before cutting.
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u/PurposeAcrobatic6953 23h ago
Everything about this hurts my ears. Get a band saw. Or a real cold saw. Those saws are scary.
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u/numahu 20h ago
I know those are slower and better to control. but I dont have the space. Full PPE with Faceshield and Hearingprotection for not hurting my ears is mandatory
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u/PurposeAcrobatic6953 19h ago
I too am spacialy challenged but set mine up so I can pull it out for 20 footers but refurbished a old Wilton 8in for 200$ best money I ever spent. 25 years later I have only gone through 4 blades
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u/immolate951 1d ago edited 1d ago
If the pictured set up is how you cut your pictured 45. Never ever do that again.
Your first photo shows a absolutely horrible cut. It should look way better then that. The material was bouncing around. Not actually clamped properly And that is a very dangerous condition with a high rpm blade.
You should at least have enough length of stock to fill the entire vice for it to work properly. If you were clapping in such a way that the “moving” jaw is not parallel with the material. Stop what you’re doing.
If you did have it clamped properly. Then you tried to feed way way way way too fast on thin material. you want to higher count tooth blade if you want to use elbow grease during the cut. If the blade is very coarse you have to slow down. A tooth is only meant to take off a little material at a time. Not a chunk.
Long story short. Lots of teeth for thin shit. Less teeth to thick stuff. Though like an old person who is missing teeth. You can nibble your way through your steak(thin material) if you’re careful and take your time.