r/sewing • u/demon_fae • 1d ago
Alter/Mend Question What stitch do I use to hand sew an inseam?
I have a pair of trousers that need to be taken in at the inseam (men’s pants, a bit roomy in a place I do not need extra room.)
Because of the angles and the proximity of the original inseam, I really don’t think trying to manhandle it through my machine will have a good result, so I’ve decided to just do it by hand.
Can anyone who has hand sewn trousers advise me on the stitch? Is it just a straight stitch? Back stitch? Ladder stitch?
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u/EveniAstrid 1d ago
I'd go with a backstitch in areas that get a lot of wear around the crotch and then straight stitch with a backstitch like every four or so stitches for the rest of the pant leg. Ladder stitch is just a straight stitch you do from the outside, usually on items where you are unable to reach the inside, like pillows, which is not the case here.
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u/QuietVariety6089 1d ago
To use a sewing machine for the inseam (the long seams) just turn the pants inside out. If you're talking about the crotch seam (the short curved seam that goes between the pant legs from front to back), this is still the way to do it but you're often hampered by the fly.
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u/demon_fae 1d ago
My main concern with the machine is that the new seam has to be right on top of the old seam, or I’ll wind up with a weird pseudo-gusset, which would be extremely noticeable on the plaid.
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u/allvanity684 1d ago
Why not make it a 16th of an inch or 32nd of an inch past the old seam line. You should lose a nominal amount ease
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u/demon_fae 1d ago
That’s basically my plan, but I’m honestly not great at getting curved seams that precise on machine. I usually just hand sew so I can put every stitch exactly where I want it.
I hand hem everything, too.
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u/allvanity684 1d ago
Good practice might be pinning a length of fabric. Running it through the machine with no thread so you can see the needle holes and then following up with thread.
I would also suggest trimming as little office possible while being precise with the existing inseam. And then your seam allowance will have your needle fall inside by the amount that you trimmed.
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u/QuietVariety6089 1d ago
Hand baste the new seam. Remove the original seam. Machine sew the new seam; take out basting. That's what I usually do when I'm 'blending' an alteration with an original seam.
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u/Large-Heronbill 1d ago
Adding, I'm guessing you are working in the crotch area. Hand baste in any changes you want to make and press, then check the results in the mirror before committing to real stitching. That area's complex geometry needs gentle corrections most of the time, or you get worse than you started with.
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u/demon_fae 1d ago
I pin-basted with a lot of small safety pins.
(No way I was trying it on with straight pins in that area…)
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u/DraganTaveley 1d ago
I would mark the stitching line with chalk or disappearing marker & use a tiny back stitch. also - use really good color matched thread.