r/travel • u/Arktwendar • 1d ago
Images My trip to Antarctica: icebergs, penguins, sleeping on the ice etc.
Hi everyone, I want to share with you a few pictures and feelings from my journey to Antarctica last autumn.
Icebergs, penguins, orcas, seals, landings, sleeping on the snow of the 7th continent – the trip had it all. I decided that if any of my travels is worth sharing, this is the one.
It’s my first ever post on Reddit so please let me know if I messed up somehow so I could do better next time.
Setting Sail from Ushuaia
On Nov 24th I boarded the World Explorer in Ushuaia with 160 fellow travelers for a 10-day Antarctic expedition with Quark Expeditions. $10 000 didn’t get me a private cabin, so I shared a room with Akira-san from Japan. We were perfect roommates: he spent his time at the bar while I rested in the cabin, and our shower schedules never overlapped. An introvert’s dream.
The passengers and crew came from all over: Canada, Australia, Europe, my new buddies from the US, and beyond. It was fascinating to connect with people from so many different backgrounds, accents, and stories. 10 days on a ship with no internet really boost communication skills.
Safety was a priority, starting with a mandatory drill. The ship had a small shop selling warm clothing for those who forgot essentials, a lecture hall, and a restaurant. One of the top decks featured an enclosed observation deck where we could watch the scenery with a drink in hand, or step outside for an unobstructed view. That’s also where we gathered for a toast at the end of the journey.
Beyond the enclosed lounge, the open decks at the bow and stern offered incredible views. The bow was off-limits at high speeds, but the stern remained accessible. The real adventure, though, began in the mudroom, where we suited up in waterproof boots and life jackets before boarding Zodiacs – sturdy rubber boats that carried us ashore or on exploration rides.
Crossing the Drake & a bit on Icebergs
To reach Antarctica from South America, we had to cross the Drake Passage, one of the roughest seas on Earth. Winds can exceed 100 km/h (62 mph), and waves sometimes reach 15 meters (50 ft) high. Between the 17th and 19th centuries, around 800 ships sank there. But we were in luck and the crossing went smoothly both on the way there and back.
As we neared Antarctica, icebergs appeared. In November summer began in Antarctica, and with temperatures around 0C the ice was melting. If an iceberg is white, it means it’s relatively young. If it’s blue, that means the ice has been compacted over thousands of years, and now filters out certain wavelengths of light. About 80–90% of an iceberg is underwater, and because seawater is warmer than air, the submerged part melts faster, sometimes causing icebergs to flip over.
I witnessed as one began to overturn and split apart – an incredible moment. It was so grand, but also fast and fleeting that I chose to save it in my memory instead of my phone.
Zodiac boat cruises
Every day, we made explorations cruises on the Zodiacs. Dressed in full waterproof gear (jacket, pants, boots, gloves) we boarded in groups. At first, people wobbled nervously as they stepped in, but after a few trips, everyone got the hang of it.
Some days, the boats drifted slowly among the ice, other times, flew fast across open water. We always found something interesting. One of the highlights was a floating whaling factory that shipwrecked nearly 100 years ago. We also scooped ice chunks from the sea a couple times. One particularly nice piece ended up in the ship’s bar for cocktails.
Weddell Seals
Besides icebergs, what did we see while cruising? Seals! Mostly Weddell seals, which only live in Antarctica. They can hold their breath for an hour while hunting krill, fish, and octopuses. I had assumed all seals ate penguins, but turns out, not all of them do.
After their deep dives, they lounge on the ice all day, behaving like oversized cats. Nothing threatens them on land as the polar bears only live in the Arctic.
Underwater they make bizarre, otherworldly sounds, like a techno party in full swing. If you’re curious, search for “Weddell seal vocalizations” on YouTube. It’s wild.
One day, we came across a juvenile elephant seal – a big brown blob with a large snout. I wanted to attach a photo, but Reddit’s limits had other plans. Still, quite the sight.
Landings & Penguin Colonies
Not every Zodiac trip was just a cruise, half the time, we landed on islands or the Antarctic continent itself. Before letting us disembark, the expedition team scouted the area for interesting sights like glaciers, penguins, or sleeping seals, then checked for dangerous crevasses in the ice. Once they flagged a safe path, we were good to go.
Penguins were everywhere. To prevent the spread of avian flu, we sanitized our boots before and after every landing and stayed at least 5 meters away from them. We also avoided crouching, so any potential contaminants wouldn’t transfer on jackets. Penguins, in turn, were completely unfazed by humans. They waddled right up to the boats or dove alongside them. Since the signing of the Antarctic Treaty 65 years ago, no one has hunted them.
We also visited an Argentine emergency shelter, stocked with food and a radio for stranded expeditions. It’s also Argentina’s way of staking a territorial claim in case the Antarctic Treaty is ever dissolved. Passed by several research stations, including the Primavera base, which studies rare mosses and lichens growing in an area where the permafrost has retreated. Couldn’t visit without permission though.
More about penguins
At the start of the trip, our expedition leader joked that we’d soon be rolling our eyes, saying, “Ugh, more penguins.” He wasn’t wrong.
We mostly saw two species: - Gentoo penguins with red beaks. Their population is growing, possibly because they feed their chicks for a couple of extra weeks. - Chinstrap penguins, named for the black stripe on their chins. Also spotted a few Adelie penguins, but they mainly live farther south.
What came as a surprise to me is penguin colonies stink. You can smell them from hundreds of meters away. My parka still carried the scent when I got back home, despite my last penguin encounter being four days earlier. These stinkies have interesting cooling strategies: since they don’t sweat, they either take a swim, gape their beaks open, or lift their flippers to expose thinner-feathered skin.
At this time of year (early December), penguins were nesting. They build their nests out of stones, leading to constant rock theft between neighbors. They also had to deal with skuas – birds pretend to rest in the colony, then suddenly snatch an egg. The penguins respond by screaming, stretching their necks, and snapping their beaks until the intruder leaves.
In Gentoo and Adelie families males and females take turns incubating eggs, swapping shifts every few days. A true team effort! They don’t rest the eggs on their feathers but on a special patch of bare skin to keep them warm.
Sleeping on the Ice
One landing was unique: 30 of us spent the night sleeping on the ice. The ship dropped us off on a shore with no penguins and sailed away. We stomped out sleeping spots, laid down mats and sleeping bags, and settled in. I took a few Lego figurines with me for fun photos and as a souvenir to bring back.
Slept for maybe two hours. First, because how do you sleep in Antarctica? Second, because it was the beginning of the polar day – so no real night for me. Third, it started snowing, and became increasing harder to breath in the sleeping bag while also not getting covered in snow.
I woke up first and got to watch a seal swim nearby. Some of my neighbors, however, were rudely awakened by mating skuas right next to them. Yes, there’s video. No, I’m not posting it.
Orcas and a Humpback
We encountered orcas twice. These apex predators eat anything that swims: seals, whales, even great whites in warmer waters. Scientists might eventually classify them as multiple distinct species, since some specialize in hunting penguins, others seals, others whales etc.
I also caught a glimpse of a humpback whale. Fun fact: each humpback has a unique pattern on the underside of its tail, like a fingerprint. I submitted my photo to the HappyWhale database and now I can track if anyone else spots “my” whale in the future.
Final takeaway
I can talk endlessly about all of this, but really the trip was beyond words. Antarctica is stunning and surreal. If you ever get the chance to visit – go for it.
Happy to share more details and answer questions if you have any.
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u/Big_Bottle3763 1d ago
Amazing recap! I have a goal to make this trip a 50th birthday present to myself in 4 years!!
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u/knightriderin 1d ago
I have to ask, because I'm curious: How is the mood among the penguins now that they have to pay tarrifs?
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u/E_Kristalin 14h ago
I think he visited before the tarrifs. So I am afraid you will not get an answer yet. Wait for the next trip report.
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u/lucapal1 Italy 1d ago
Nice report and photos, thanks for posting!
I hope I'll make it there,one day.
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u/thismightendme 1d ago
This is great! Love it all!
What is the price tag on this sort of adventure if you don’t mind the question.
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
Don’t mind at all, happy to help. I double-checked for you right now, the cost for the cruise itself was a few dollars more than $9k. I got a discount for booking almost a year in advance, and it was the cheapest cabin that I had to share with another guy.
Plus you have to get to Ushuaia (Argentina) where the ship is anchored. A return ticket with Aerolíneas Argentinas from Buenos Aires was 200$. And you’ll have to get to Buenos Aires first, but the cost of that depends heavily on your starting point.
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u/Choppieee 1d ago
Plus the additional cost of the right clothing? I guess you rent is also to make it more affordable then buying?
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
I had most of the clothing I needed, so not too much of an extra cost. Had to buy waterproof pants, but other than that I was all set. The expedition provided parka (which we took home) and the mug boots.
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u/golfzerodelta United States 13h ago
Renting is a solid option because hauling baggage all the way is a PITA especially in Argentina IME.
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u/Due-Lab-5283 1d ago
About you sleeping on the ice - how cold was it? And, what clothes have you worn (including shoes) to protect you from freezing? Seems like quite low temps below freezing but you all look like it is a casual hike. Lol. The yellow jackets - is it all from the ship store you all got or you bought it ahead of time?
Great pictures and story! Thanks for sharing!
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u/Arktwendar 21h ago
Not so cold actually, just about the freezing point. I slept in a sleeping bag and a small touristic mat, so I was dressed lighter than on a usual Antarctic landings: two pairs of socks, a thermal base layer, fleece pants and jacket – and that’s all. I took off my boots and parka, of course.
The parka was a gift from the expedition company.
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u/Due-Lab-5283 13h ago
It makes sense as everyone wore same parka, lol. So, that is not so bad, I thought it was much colder than that. I grew up in winters going below -30C so that is hard to breathe in. 😆 I think I would be fine! Lol
I will definitely look into it in few years when my finances stabilize a bit more! Thanks for the feedback!
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u/Alien_P3rsp3ktiv 1d ago
Stunning pics, amazing journey, thanks for sharing! Maybe I missed it, but can you explain last pic?…:)
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
I took 4 Lego figures with me on the trip to take photos like the one in the post. Leia and one of the commanders from Hoth were on board for being snow-themed. Third one was Indiana Jones, as I visited Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay on my way to Antarctica. With the last one being some arctic explorer dressed accordingly, which I ended up gifting to my son upon my return.
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u/Past-Suggestion4382 1d ago
Incredible photos, thank you for sharing your experience. Antarctica is on my bucket list. If you don't mind asking, how much budget do I need for such exceptional adventure?
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
It’s totally worth it to be on the bucket list, hope you make it.
As for the cost – long story short, It was $9k for the cruise plus costs of getting to Ushuaia.
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u/Past-Suggestion4382 1d ago
wow I was expecting more than this to be honest. Definitely worth saving for a few year to plan a trip like this. I cannot wait. Your story is inspiring !
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u/Arktwendar 21h ago
Glad to boost your inspiration! But please note that I got a little discount for booking in advance, and I went with the cheapest option available. So when planning for yourself, I suggest you multiply this by x1,5 to be sure
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u/slavshek 20h ago
Or for those who are flexible with last-minute deals, it can actually be less! I paid $4400 last November for a 13 day expedition trip (booked about a month in advance). Coolest thing I've ever done 🐧
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u/HalifaxPotato 1d ago
Wow, it really is an intensely beautiful landscape. What's the story behind the shipwreck?
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
It was the floating whaler factory Governoren. While the crew were having a feast, the ship caught fire. They intentionally tried to ram the shore to save some of the goods (whale oil), but ended up hitting rocks. As far as I know, everyone survived but the ship itself.
It was fun seeing the wreck in person and then seeing a mini model and reading g the story again in Ushuaia maritime museum.
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u/Admirable_Tourist233 1d ago
Very cool write-up and photos. Thanks for sharing! I love how moody your landscape shots are.
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u/TheNumberOneRat 1d ago
Cool photos.
I went a couple of years ago with Oceanwide and absolutely loved it. If money and time were no objects I'd be back next season.
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u/beartheminus 1d ago
Looks like an amazing experience. I just had to say that this post on reddit was directly below yours in my feed lol
https://www.reddit.com/r/funny/comments/1jrh65b/i_need_this_in_my_life/
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
It was!
The post by the link was deleted for violating the rules, but it’s not hard to guess the content nowdays with penguin export and stuff
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u/FootHikerUtah 1d ago
Thanks for sharing. I assume you saw the recent video crossing the Drake Passage. Was your crossing more peaceful?
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u/Arktwendar 1d ago
I don’t know which specific video you refer to, but I’ve done my research before making the trip. There are videos of people rolling on the deck from one side to another because of the waves, so I was ready for the worst.
I was utterly terrified about the whole thing tbh, especially since I’m easily sea sick. But the Drake was incredibly kind to us. I still had to take a pill during the crossings there and back, though.
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u/FootHikerUtah 1d ago
It's a very new video from this week. A large window at the bow of the ship, waves crashing against it. Should be easy then find. I believe it was a Quark also.
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u/golfzerodelta United States 13h ago
The conditions of the Drake change daily. And because it takes about 2 days to cross it can change while you’re on it which can be good or bad.
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u/Arktwendar 4h ago
Found the video, thanks. You’re right, it was from Quark’s another ship Ocean Explorer. The video is terrifying and captivating at the same time.
One part of me wants to experience waves like this, but the other part (the one with a motion sickness and not wanting to die) is glad I didn’t have to go through this.
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u/HotwifeOnTour 1d ago
Wow. This looks like a really nice trip to remember for a long time. 😀 Thx for sharing these pics and your report.
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u/Specialist_Path_3166 1d ago
Thank you for sharing your visit and photos. I hope to visit some day.
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u/the_drunk_bafoon 1d ago
So cool! The penguin screeching at the other bird.. love it! Looks like a great experience!
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u/brihere 18h ago
One of the most amazing trips ever. We were literally eye to eye with curious humpbacks who came by the zodiac to “play” with us. We could have touched them they were so close and so elegantly careful. Ballerinas of the sea. Absolutely breathtaking. And you didn’t mention the staff. Impeccable hospitality, service, and the adventure staff are highly qualified experts in their fields, including PhD‘s, lecturers and university professors. Truly, the trip of a lifetime.
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u/Arktwendar 18h ago
Wow, how fortunate is that! I only saw a glimpse of a hunchback, although felt lucky anyway.
And you’re absolutely right about the expedition staff – passionate professionals all of them.
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u/Appropriate_Tea9048 1d ago
Thank you for sharing! What beautiful pics! Definitely a bucket list item for me.
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u/West_Rain_7807 1d ago
Such beautiful experience 🤗 Must be thrilling … One day I would definitely go 🤞
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u/starrfast 1d ago
These are such amazing pictures, and those penguins are adorable! Thanks for sharing, I can only imagine how amazing of a trip this was. I'd love to travel to Antarctica but so far every tour I've come across has been massively out of budget for me.
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u/Arktwendar 20h ago
Exactly! I know what you mean, my experience was also much better than I expected – both from the ship and the expedition crew.
Since you went in February, did you see the penguin chicks? The only thing I really missed by going in Nov/Dec.
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u/Arktwendar 5h ago
A single cabin and a lot of penguin chicks is lucky indeed!
Dunno about the Arctic. I low key want to make it to the North Pole, but there are not a lot of options available, all of them quite expensive. And I have a family so I can’t go unplanned with any last minute deals. Which means I probably won’t go in the next couple years.
Do you have any specific place in the Arctic you’d want to visit?
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u/Arktwendar 5h ago
Thanks for the link. And hope you are able to arrange a trip to Antarctica with your family in five years 👍🏻
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u/0hmyheck 16h ago edited 16h ago
This is my absolute dream trip. Thank you for sharing so much detail!
Can I ask if you experienced any motion sickness on the ship? And given that WiFi is not available, are any activities are provided on board during “down” time?
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u/Arktwendar 16h ago
Thanks for the kind words!
While the Drake was especially calm during my cruise, I still felt uneasy and took one pill each way. But that’s just me, I have a weak stomach, very susceptible to motion sickness.
WiFi was available, but very limited. Down time was mostly when passing through Drake, so not too long. I watched a few things on Netflix (downloaded beforehand), and I slept more than usual due to sea sickness. So the time flew rather quickly.
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u/Platinum_Scarlett 15h ago
Male penguins, especially gentoo penguins, search for the perfect pebble to present to a potential mate, symbolizing their commitment and desire to build a nest together. Saw the pic with the penguin and stone and had to make this comment! 🐧🖤🤍🧡
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u/Arktwendar 14h ago
They do. And while searching they don’t hesitate stealing pebbles from all of their neighbors!
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u/Platinum_Scarlett 13h ago
All your photos are priceless! Great shots and would consider getting some framed and hang them in a group on your wall!
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u/Arktwendar 12h ago
Thanks a lot! To tell you the truth, I do have several printed photos above my desk: family, a place I grew up in, and some of the adventures from the recent years. Now there is also a photo from this trip as well, it’s a good thing to remember.
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u/bcarrilo 15h ago
Loved the photos and the detailed story behind the pictures. What a great experience! Thank you for sharing your amazing vacation.
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u/x_HorrorHime_x 14h ago
Didn’t realize that was a planned sleep in the snow and gasped thinking y’all had found dead bodies 🙈
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u/SnooCakes5010 9h ago
This is the perfect first post on Reddit! You have set the bar very high indeed for everyone. Beautifully described and lovely photos. Please continue to post your travels! Where are you located?
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u/Arktwendar 5h ago
Thanks a lot for endorsing me!
I’m located in Armenia for some time, which means it’s easier for me to travel in Asia/Europe, than to Americas.
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u/thedevonryder 6h ago
Cool photos! I love penguins so the second one is my favourite 🐧 Thank you for sharing, was really interesting to read 🩵
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u/Moonstonetiger 2h ago
Thank you for sharing your photos and info. I’ve been looking into doing this trip, but the Drake Passage crossing makes me uneasy. I’m glad you had an uneventful crossing.
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u/Embarrassed-Slide435 1d ago
Amazing... it's my dream to go but it's kind of expensive. I mean, it's not a small group. 160 people - someone made 1.6 million in 10 days.
Why do you think it's so expensive? Any other boat trip will cost you way less, and I assume regular cruisers have higher costs and better boats and all.
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u/Arktwendar 21h ago
160 people is actually not much compared to some 5k ocean cruiser, so not as much revenue. At the same time, the ship is much more sturdy to handle navigating through ice, making it expensive to maintain. Plus, the level of service was unexpectedly high – like a different a la carte menu every day with stuff like frog legs. I think these are the reasons.
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u/i-amnot-a-robot- 2h ago
This is going to be my graduation present to myself, can I ask how you got back from Ushuaia. Looks complicated, long and expensive by my calculations
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u/Dependent_Hunter5672 10m ago
I dont have a good feeling about this. I have been seeing so many people visiting Antractica lately. I hope it doesn't end up like Mount Everest.
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u/MX9000 1d ago
Amazing trip! Which country are from and how much did it cost you in total?
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u/Arktwendar 21h ago
I’m Russian, but living and working in Armenia for the last few years, so I traveled from Yerevan through Frankfurt.
My trip actually included a few more countries – I spent several days in Rio, Buenos Aires, and half day in Uruguay. So I don’t really remember the total cost for all that.
I do remember the ticket to get from Yerevan to Rio costed me about $1400 one way, making it the second most expensive part of the journey after the Antarctica cruise itself.
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u/Fernandexx 1d ago
10.000 dollars
Great. You went to amazing Antarctica and spent the same amount I will have to spend on my next family trip to Mexico and Orlando 💸💸💸
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u/tv996509 1d ago
Lol Mexico and Orlando…how cool….
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u/Fernandexx 1d ago
That's the point.
I will spend a shit ton of money to be in places I've been before just to make my kid's dream come true (and even more my wife's dream of taking the kid there) of visiting Disney World.
Meanwhile OP is in the adventure of a lifetime, living a travelers dream of being in the 7th continent, spending the same money as me. I envy OP in a good way.
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u/Arktwendar 20h ago
I think these are both amazing adventures tbh.
I love spending time with my wife and kid as much as I love adventuring alone (in special cases like this my wife takes all the house duties to let me go).
And a Disney World sounds like a great quality time with your family. Also it’s understandable why the cost is comparable – it’s a family trip against a single traveler.
Maybe you could find a way to do both some of the following years?
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u/Fernandexx 15h ago
Maybe you could find a way to do both some of the following years?
Actually I've been looking for years to do a road trip to Ushuaia - wich isn't an uncommon thing here. I live in south Brazil, so it's about ~5000 km/3100 mi from my hometown.
Then in Ushuaia I can get one of those Terra del Fuego cruises or something. I guess the Antarctica one would be too much for my wife haha
I'll wait my kid to grow a little and maybe engage on planning this trip better. Meanwhile, Orlando and beach resorts - wich I'm not complaining at all, just pointing that there is no spirit of adventure here.
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u/Arktwendar 14h ago
There were two girls age 9 and 11 or about so with their parents on my ship, and they seemed to be having a great time. So this might really be a sound idea for when your kid grows up.
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u/Fernandexx 11h ago
I'm gonna check, thank you. And congratulations for living the incredible adventures of Schakleton even if for just a few hours or days.
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u/DontSupportAmazon 1d ago
I like the pic of the penguin yelling at the skua