Recommendations for matte protective finishes for display bowls?

[u/Live-Cardiologist763]

Relatively new turner here, and starting to amass a large collection of turning blanks from shop cutoffs, logs, etc. On my first few bowls I did a mineral oil soak, then applied a 4:1 mineral oil + beeswax paste rub that I made. I like the matte sheen and that it's easily reapplied, but I dislike that it never "cures" into a harder wax surface and gives off a greasier feel at times. It also doesn't provide good wood depth, protection, or color in my opinion. Due to the ease of finish reapplication, I still plan to use this finish for food contact bowls that need to be washed, so I'm looking for a finish I can use on display oriented bowls.

I don't like to use plastic finishes such as polyurethane or the likes, so I've looked into several hardwax finishes and have even used Rubio Monocoat in the past for other projects, but it's much too expensive to regularly use. Tried and True seems like a good, well-recommended alternative, but I've heard stories of 1-2 week long drying times which is way too long to wait for a finished product. Have other people experienced this with T&T, or are those stories outliers?

Overall, a recommendation for a finish that's somewhat protective, has quick application/curing time, and provides great color/wood depth with a matte finish would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

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[u/KokoTheTalkingApe]

Tried and True Original is great for food contact. It's food-safe even when uncured, which only a few other finishes are.

But you can always try something like "teak" oil or "danish" oil, which cures faster. Minwax Wood Finish (not the Polyshades, Polycrylic, Polyurethane, etc.) is a thin tinted varnish, (untinted in their Natural color) and dries very fast.

Incidentally, I know people use mineral oil on their cutting boards, and that's much debated, but I don't see much point in using it on bowls and such.

[u/Live-Cardiologist763 → u/KokoTheTalkingApe]

I do like many aspects of Tried and True Original. The smell and non-toxicity of Rubio is really fantastic for healthier working conditions, and I've heard that T&T is the same or better in that regard. Have you used it before? Was the curing time ~24hrs like the label says or did it sometimes take longer? I live in PA, so we get a mix of humid and dry days, but my garage is more on the humid side.

"Danish oils" are really just a mix of boiled linseed/tung oil with some other components right? Sounds similar to T&T without the beeswax.

I've seen many recommendations for mineral oil on bowls and it does work well, but for figured/beautiful wood grains it's extremely lastluster.

[u/KokoTheTalkingApe → u/Live-Cardiologist763]

Danish oils are whatever the manufacturer says they are. But don't discount those "other components." They likely include something to make the finish dry faster. Those things are often toxic. T&T doesn't have them. So no, it's not really similar to T&T.

Did anybody ever say why you should use mineral oil on bowls? If it were me, I would at least use tung oil. Very simple, and almost the same appearance as mineral oil, but far more durable. And it doesn't wash out. It takes a few weeks to fully cure though.

By "lackluster," do you mean its not shiny? If you want a shine with an oil finish, the wood has to be shiny before you oil it, meaning it's been sanded to at least 1,000 grit. Or you can use a film finish like varnish, shellac, CA, lacquer, etc.

[u/Live-Cardiologist763 → u/KokoTheTalkingApe]

Fair point, it's such an ordeal to verify every company's ingredients on their products.

For mineral oil, most people agree that a MO bath will actually penetrate the grains and provide more water resistance, rather than a finish that only adheres to the top few layers of grain. It's typically cheaper, widely available at most stores, and easily reapplied if washed out. I do agree Tung oil would be better in the long term, but the several week curing time is putting me off.

• Mineral Oil? : r/turning

By "lackluster" I meant that it gives a very flat presentation. I recently made a french rolling pin with some of the most beautiful figured walnut grain I'd ever seen and finished it with the MO + beeswax method. The result was that the walnut looked as if it had flat lines with zero chatoyancy. I'm not a fan of shiny finishes, but I do desire the wood to be shown as good as it can be. I've received great results with Rubio for this purpose, all while having a matte finish.

I'll most likely go with T&T Original, I think it most closely aligns with what I'd like and it's backed up by many recommendations.

[u/KokoTheTalkingApe → u/Live-Cardiologist763]

Well, tung oil penetrates too (as does danish oil, teak oil, boiled linseed oil (don't use that), walnut oil, etc.) especially if it's thinned with something like limonene or mineral spirits.

Good luck with the T&T. I thought it took too long to cure for you? BTW, there's a difference between "dry" and "cured."

[u/marcsitkin]

Shellac. Simple, inexpensive and effective.

[u/goosedogducks]

I’ve been using Milk Paint Half and Half with some success, but tung oil takes a while to cure. I watched this video last night and might try making my own recipe… https://youtu.be/9xSJpkU-hsg?si=Qs3uXYHAQjP6PUX9

[u/Fugowee]

Funny you ask, was just researching finishes....I'm for better gloss.

Anyway, was just looking at "Turn a wood bowl" on YouTube. Check that out.

Mineral oil I only use on cutting boards. This oil doesn't cure and not something I use on bowls.

Simplest is bees wax. Sand to 400 for matte, higher grits for glossier.

I've been hitting most bowls with BLO. Then several coats of "shine juice". I like results here, but now thinking sanding to higher grits will get the gloss I'm looking for. And starting to play with the shine juice ratios with less BLO.

I might try out tung oil and maybe Tried&True. But also going look harder at what is actually in the product. Heavy metals and petroleum stuff is added to some for faster curing. Hope to avoid stuff like that.

[u/1-719-266-2837 → u/Fugowee]

If you want glossy sand to 600, use an abrasive paste, and use shine juice. BLO prior to shine juice is a waste of time in my opinion.

[u/One-Entrepreneur-361]

Odies oil Or use linseed oil or another drying oil like tung instead of mineral oil 

[u/1-719-266-2837]

Food safe matte finish is Tried and True original all day long. Easy to use. A little goes a long way. Food safe. I use it on my turnings and cutting boards.
I am in Kentucky and it sometimes takes 2-3 days to cure.