New LED ceiling light fixtures don’t come with replaceable LED cartridges. Instead, you need to replace the whole fixture instead of a lightbulb, making them worse once planned obsolescence kicks in. Regression and devolution for your lighting solutions!

(a little bit of backstory): ok, my parents got a new microwave about 2 months ago because our last one was way too powerful and was literally zapping stuff inside it. (we threw that one away)

so they got a new one. but ever since we got it, it cuts out our ENTIRE internet in our house!

I don’t know why the heck it does it. but ill give an example of what happens.

my mom microwaves leftovers for let’s say a minute, the internet in nearly the whole house (except ethernet, though it is heavily slowed) goes totally dark, until whatever shes heating up is done. It takes a while for the internet to fully come back.

things like my phone or nintendo switch loose total Wi-Fi, my school ipad stops getting signal the second anyone presses the start button on that microwave…

i keep telling my family to at the very least give a warning before using it, but they honestly forget or don’t seem to care…

or when I’m in a game of fortnite, someone will start the microwave, so my ping will jump up to 1,100, so I can’t move or do anything till whatever is microwaving is done.

we use our microwave frequently, but OMG it is so darn annoying when im taking an online school test, gaming, or watching YouTube and it just stops working for how long something is being microwaved…

can someone please figure out an idea as to why our new microwave is killing our entire internet or give a few ideas as to why it could be doing this?

I have an old Maytag washer, i use and have always used tide detergent and nothing else. I have cut out scent beads. It makes my light or white colored clothes yellow? What could be causing it?

Recently bought a new washing machine, and went with the LG 5.3 agitator smart top load that consumer reports rated the best. All my clothes get this filmy stuff (soap?) on them coming out of the wash, especially noticeable on dark clothes. Using the high efficiency detergent, and only a small amount. Been washing clothes my whole life and never had this before. What is it and what am I doing wrong, lol?

Looking to replace my cooktop burner – Need more powerful burners with a wok-friendly design

I currently have a 36" GE cooktop with 5 burners, but I'm running into some issues. Only one of the burners is powerful enough to cook meals in decent time, while the other four are either too low from the top of the grill or just not powerful enough. See pic attached.

I'm looking for a 36" cooktop that has at least 2 or 3 powerful burners and also has an opening on the top grill so I can accommodate a wok or rounded pots. Most burners I've seen have a flat grill design, which makes pots wobble, and that's just not working for me.

I was looking at the Wolf CG365P 5-burner cooktop, but it costs around $2400, which is pretty steep. Does anyone know of any alternatives that are more affordable but still offer similar performance? Appreciate any recommendations!

Hey folks, so we bought a house with a GE propane fueled stove top. Even on the lowest setting, the flame is way too high and doesn't allow us to simmer anything. I removed the knobs and looked for an adjustment screw, but nothing. I also removed the burner tops and also no small flathead screw anywhere. Anyone have any ideas?

TL;DR: Have a fancy French door Whirlpool fridge that is 5 years old. 1.5 years ago and again now it has had warming issues in the fridge section. Not a defrost issue, seemed to be a fan issue. Last time it was the control board but it was purely intermittent. I noticed this time that if I hit it on the side the fan would kick on and start cooling again, but this trick only worked for a few months and now it is no longer cooling the fridge section no matter what I do. Any idea what it might be and how I should proceed?

When I bought my condo in 2023 it came with a WRQA59CNKZ French door fridge. Based on the serial number, it was installed 12/11/2020. Shortly after I moved in it started having issues with the refrigerator section warming. Back then I didn't have a thermometer in the fridge or freezer, but I noticed some days the drinks and items in the fridge seemed a bit warm. It didn't bother me too much until one day it seemed really warm, practically room temp. So, I got a fridge thermometer to make sure I wasn't crazy and sure enough it was at around 60 degrees. I threw out a bunch of food and figured it was a defrost issue. I tried to find an autodefrost function, but seems this unit doesn't have one (or I found something that said it does, but it runs automatically once per week or so and can't be triggered manually), so I left it unplugged for an afternoon. After I plugged it back in it started cooling again.

Sure enough, a month or so later it started warming up again. I decided to try unplugging it for just 20 minutes and that got it cooling again. It got worse and worse getting to around once a week and unplugging stopped helping. I had thermometers in the fridge and each separate freezer section. When the fridge would stop cooling the freezers would get colder, so I suspected a fan issue since there was no airflow when the fridge was not working. The only noise it would make when it wasn't working was this faint "whirring" periodically, reminding me of a stuck electric motor. I pulled the whole thing apart, but couldn't find any obvious issues, no frost built up anywhere. I'm not an expert on fridges so I didn't do much more than pull it apart. I decided to give up for now and call an appliance guy (looked up the best in the area with 4.8 out of 5 stars).

He came out, on a day the fridge was intermittently working after it hadn't worked for several days. He tested everything and said it was all working, the only thing that concerned him a bit was the compressor seemed a bit warm. He suggested I check the compressor when it was having the issue and if it was warm I should contact Whirlpool since even though the fridge isn't under warranty that perhaps they'd have a separate warranty for the compressor. I did tell him about the fan not seeming to be running when the fridge was warming but he insisted that was all working fine.

So, the compressor seemed a little warm I suppose (and the guy said it was), so I contacted Whirlpool, over the phone and they diagnosed it as a bad control board. They said they would send someone out (had me schedule service on the site) to look at it and see if it qualified for warranty replacement. I scheduled it, they sent someone out, they looked at it and replaced it. They had me sign a bill and I asked if I had to pay anything for it, they said "they'd talk to Whirlpool and bill me as needed." I never got a bill, so that's great since Whirlpool's rates are pretty pricey per their website.

And the new control board seemed to solve the issue, no more warming problem. At least it did for about a year and a half. Then, suddenly, the issue started appearing again, creeping up like it did before with random intermittent warming. I tried the usual, unplugging it for a bit and plugging it back in. But then, I admit I got more frustrated than I should have one day with it warming and I decided to give it a little love tap on the side. Well, more than a love tap, I smacked it like Han Solo smacks the Millennium Falcon when the hyper drive ain't workin'. It was on the right side near the top. Strangely enough, the fan kicked on like that. It was fine again for about a month. Next month, started warming again, so I gave it another love tap. The fan didn't kick on right away, but I checked on it an hour later and it was running and had cooled down again.

Now, this was not great timing since I was about to leave for a week-long vacation and didn't want to deal with it till I got back. I told my GF who was staying home to give it a little tap if it started to warm up. Luckily it was fine till I got back, but then it started shortly thereafter. I gave it a tap and this time it didn't seem to work. I've tried a few more times and with great force on the sides and back and... nothing, I can't get it to stop warming the last 2 days. I know I should have addressed this sooner, well guess I'll need to throw the food out now since it is 60 degrees. Once again, the freezers are fully functional, apart from being colder than usual.

But, I'm at a loss on how to proceed. I'd like to get out of this for as cheaply and stress free as possible. I'm hesitant to call an appliance repairman again (either the original one I called or another), though maybe this time it'll be easier to troubleshoot since it clearly isn't working now. I could call Whirlpool again and hope they don't charge me again, but I kinda doubt I'll get lucky twice. Or, I could try to fix it myself. I have a multimeter and I'm somewhat handy (diagnosed and replaced my water heater control board recently). Or, is it time to punt and get a new fridge?

So I had to turn the breaker off for the refrigerator circuit and after turning back on, the display does not respond to any inputs and the blue light for the freezer temp is blinking. It still dispenses water but the buttons do not work. Temps are ok in both the freezer and refrigerator side. I also hear the compressor running. Any ideas?

Hello! When I try to boil a very large, flat pot (nearly industrial size) of water, the heat will turn off before the water boils. When I take the pot off of the stove, the burner will heat up again. However, this doesn't happen when I use a smaller pot or a frying pan.

I bought this GE electric range less than a year ago. The model is JCBS350SV1SS. Is something wrong, or am I using the range incorrectly?? Any advice is much appreciated 🙏

It's a washing machine for those following along, can't edit title :(

So, my motor control board on my is un-well to say the least. I'm thinking I'll replace it (see below).

I'm also toying with the idea of replacing the motor along with it, as it looks accessible and straight forward.

My question is: how free should the drum rotate ? I'm trying to figure out if the bearing is worn out and replacing the motor and board will just be fresh items to burn out?

Is there a way to diag the motor ? and/or bearing at the tub center before I jump into that job.

A follow up would be: I see newer models have a different board & housing... do those need a corresponding motor or would those work with mine (assuming the motor is ok)

Ideas/guidance would be greatly appreciated.

edit: added follow up question, & let peeps know its a washing machine

Anyone had this issue? The display that shows high/low etc stopped working.on one of the burners. Burner works fine.

Got this Samsung washer and it’s really loud during cycles. I assume it’s not normal. Pretty sure I have all the shipping bolts out.

Ok, this is not mine - asking for a friend. They bought an all-in-one washer/dryer combo. Unfortunately they measured their hallway wrong, and there's no way to get it to fit in the space intended. It's maybe 1.5 inches too large. Removing the wood trim and casing around the door won't be enough. 1.) They can't return it - past return window. 2.) Very small and old house with no other place to put it (too many support beams, vents and electrical in the way to "create" another spot. 3.) Tried selling it but no takers.

Besides being a very expensive lesson in measuring twice, cutting once, is taking off the exterior housing an option? Husband is an engineer (he did not do the measuring 😁) so he kind of knows what he's doing. Would that be enough to gain an inch or 2 of space? I'm sure it would cancel any warranty, but other than being very, very careful, is this something that could be done? Any suggestions would be great! (They have been thoroughly shamed already, so just moving on to the "what if we did this" option)

Im having a problem with a garbage electric(GE) washer and seeing if anyone has had the same. The washer is ptwn6050m0wt.

When I try to start a load, I get an indicator that says LID. Did some research and tried to find out what it means. It looks like it indicates the lid isn’t closed so it would be a faulty lid switch. I pulled out the lid switch (which is the magnetic one). I cut the wires going to the switch and spliced them together to bypass the switch to see if it would run and see if that’s all I had to replace. Didn’t run. Now I gotta buy a new switch and still don’t know what’s wrong with it. Any ideas?

The 2 burners on the back are burning orange flames and making popping sounds on lowest setting. I’ve already cleaned the cooktop, the burners and each hole. Its still the same. How do I fix the problem? Is the burner malfunctioning or I need to replace something?

Hi, What do these symbols mean on my fridge freezer

I opened the back panel of the fridge and have just one red light solid on. Any ideas? Maybe one of the boards?

There are not my “final” but these are the brands and models I’d like with impeller.

I pressed cancel right after I pressed start to add something else to it, and now when I pressed start it just hums for like 5 minutes and cuts back off. I can’t select any cycles or options either.

Have an older Amana ceramic top oven. Pulled it out today for cleaning and noticed what I assume is part of one of the elements looking like this.

Is it cause for concern?

Replace the part or the whole oven?

Any help very appreciated!

Hi All, just bought this LG WT7150CW washer and my kids are saying that there is some high pitch noise as soon as the power is turned on even before the cycle starts.

Has anyone experienced the same ?

I'm in the process of buying appliances for my apartment — things like an oven, induction hob, air conditioners, washing machine, etc.

I've come across some decent offers on Hyundai and AVG appliances. Has anyone had any experience with either brand? Are they reliable in the long term?

Would really appreciate any advice or feedback before I make the purchases. Thanks in advance.

Hello! I'm hoping that someone with oven knowledge and/or propane knowledge can help me decide which oven to get. I am moving into a house in the mountains that has a propane tank, which I have never experienced before. I do want a double oven so I can cook two things at once at different temperatures. I also want a gas stovetop with a griddle in the middle. These are the two oven options I am considering:

GE 6.8 Cubic Feet double oven

Samsun 6.0 Cubic Feet double oven

I know LG makes one like this too, but I'm trying to stay under $1500 if possible. But if everyone said "GET THE LG ONE, IT'S 1000000 TIMES BETTER!!!!! YOU WON'T BE SORRY!!!!!" maybe I would get that one...

Here are my questions:

1) Do these ovens run on all gas, or are they electric ovens? I know the stovetops are gas, I'm just asking about the ovens specifically. I was under the impression the GE one was all gas and the Samsung oven was electric, but now I'm not sure if I got those details correct.

2) My house is on propane, so I am responsible for calling the propane company to come fill the tank when it gets low, so it seems like an electric oven would be beneficial because it won't drain the propane as much. But I don't know how big of a difference it really makes... does anyone else?

3) Is Samsung a good company for an oven? The wifi thing seems cool... but wondering if anyone has any insight on different oven companies (GE, LG, Samsung, etc).

I really need some input from people who actually know about this stuff, so thank you for your help!!!