my friend recently bought a mini city e 1000 from 1989 we are trying to fix the radio that came with it (not installed) so we can put it back in, however we need the wiring for it , we have searched its model and it is not on the internet and the color standards seem to have changed since then - we would apricate yalls help

What we know:

model : Goodman's GCE-255

purple wire had a fuse

orange stripe had a old heat shrink over its end so it wasn't used

thick black is antenna

chassis is -12v

antenna, purple and orange stripe are much longer and seem to have not been part of the connecter

so far we have tried - on chassis and +12 on purple but the LCD screen didn't wake and some of the filament bulbs popped (the may just have been corroded so they shorted) we also couldn't get the cassette led on

thanks in advance

Just my luck after battling with the passenger side tie rod, get over to the driver side and it’s a new problem. Lock nut stuck, and outer tie rod won’t unthread either. I don’t have a torch on hand, so it’s looking like I’ll be replacing both inner and outer rods now. I’ll let it sit in Blaster overnight and see if it helps. Inner tie rod likely cheaper than heat. I pre sprayed this 2 days ago to prepare, but still stuck. I’d be open to any other suggestions, although I don’t think there are any

I just got done doing a CAM and lifters swap in my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee and am about to drop the heads with the headers already attached back onto the block (I was able to take both sides off with the headers still attached). When I took them out there are just 2 flange bolts on both sides to attach the header to the exhaust down pipes. I'm a little concerned about getting them to seat back together tightly without leaks, since they've never been a part before. There is no gasket, just metal to metal.

I need some coaching on if I should reattach them again, metal to metal or if I should add some high temp RTV or other gasket material?

Thanks for any advice in advance!

Posted this in the Lexus sub to no avail.

Does anyone know which fuse is responsible for the powered USB outlets inside the center console box? I’ve found the fuse boxes inside the engine compartment and the one jammed up under and to the left of the steering column, kind of inside the dash. Can’t ID which fuse(s) are related.

The USB outlets just stopped working and it’s a long drive to any repair shop that could take a look.

Any ideas? TIA.

It won’t let me upload a video for some reason.

What are my options? Thinking of getting an angle grinder and cutting through it at this point. Put a jack underneath, but that didn’t help, ball joint still kept spinning. Put a 10mm on the top and that worked until that eventually stripped too. Nut splitter was trash. It sat in PB Blaster for a whole day before I even started, and still the nut barely wants to spin. Must be some serious thread locker or something. And recommendations? If I go the angle grinder route, any brands that’s well made to cut through this? I would assume it’s hardened metal, at least the ball joint part of it.

The Nylock nut is not stripped although it looks like it.

I bought this car and it came with this deep scratch, I ran my finger over it and it’s deep. How would a scratch like this happen and what’s the best method to fix, BTW this is on top of my cars roof so I can’t change the panel.

i’m aware this is a lot of money but would you say it’s fairly priced or did i get ripped off? i personally feel like it’s fair but would like other’s opinions as well. it’s a construction work truck that gets driven A LOT and can be maintained better honestly. i’m location in southern california, if that helps at all.

I am fixing this project truck (it's a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 short bed single cab) I am fixing the chassis on it and now I don't know and can't seem to find the right measurements for the inside of the engine area as to what the measurements are from the front bumper to the firewall if someone can please help and knows the measurements to it I'd appreciate it thank you.

Hey guys! Got a 2014 Honda Accord that abruptly lost cold and hot air functionality after an auto accident that happened near my right fender and right side of front bumper. After moving the bumper, I found that the A/C pressure sensor connector harness plug was severed during the accident and the cause of my air conditioning to not work properly. I found the part on Amazon (relatively inexpensive), but can find it on HondaPartsNow. Was wondering if it's okay to purchase the Amazon part and see it a mechanic can do it for me and how much it'll probably run me?

Hey guys, I had a big diesel leak from the injectors while driving on the motorway. At least 10 liters leaked into my engine bay. Car is an Audi A3 2013 1.6 TDI. Turns out the metal clip wasn’t holding the return fuel pipe properly.

What’s the best way to clean this up? I’ve already tried soaking up as much as I can. I have a steam cleaner, but it’s not industrial strength, and I don’t have access to a water hose. I also bought a degreaser, but it’s really hard to reach all the gaps in the engine.

I got a quote for dry ice engine bay cleaning, and they’re asking £250. Is it worth it? I’m worried the diesel might damage rubber components, especially since I just had the cam belt changed, and I’m sure some of it dripped there.

What would you do in this situation? Any advice is much appreciated!

I don’t see anything obvious under the hood. Had the car in drive with brake engages and don’t see the engine shaking or any other components moving abnormally.

Google says a whole lot of different options that it could be.

What are your thoughts on this?

My 2000 Grand Marquis is making a buzzing sound around the dashboard area when I accelerate above around 70mph. Does anyone know anything about this?

Anyone have good recommendations for a OBD2 code reader. Specifically ones that does wheel speed sensors, ABS lights, and such.

Hi everyone- so my car got broken into while getting fixed at a firestone. firestone covers the repair and i pick it up once the glass (back windshield and driver side window) are repaired. I open my trunk today and can hear the glass rattling around inside, is this normal that they didn’t vaccum all of it? It is an SUV for context. thanks!!!

Bonjour à tous Un bruit est apparu il y a peu et je n’arrive pas à trouver d’où ça peut venir Moteur 1.5 dci 2014 La distrib a été faite récemment