I'm a new car owner and looking for a diy solution to these little rust spots. Most are really small (one mm or so in diameter)

I appreciate the advice.

Im looking for a way to fix myself, i am not a professional, im just looking if there is a way i can diy it and save me some money, like said im no pro so Im not expecting it to cone oit perfect if were to do it, i knkw i could js leave it to the pros and pay the money i dont need the comments telling me that, but i dont see why not try and do a little diy and save sum money.

Openrd up my valve cover and saw this. Should I try to clean it before putting my cover back on, and should I be worried? It's a matrix xrs that's leaky on oil I'm in the process of addressing all the leaks

I have no brakes, I’ve changed wheel cylinders, shoes, and have bleed them (I am getting fluid out).

Still getting no brakes. I decided to look at the master cylinder.

When I first depress the brake, it makes a big bubble, but doesn’t do anything on the other pressings.

Is my master cylinder the problem?

After a recent alignment and lower ball joint service at Firestone, I began noticing vibrations in the steering wheel and a knocking noise while driving. It felt like something might be loose. I took the car back to Firestone, and although they made a repair that temporarily resolved the noise, the knocking and vibrations returned within two weeks. What could be causing this issue?

In the inside of the cab it has rust in the floor I grinding it the rust off and some holes formed I got rid of almost all the rust and now I need to patch the holes. How should I go about it.

Should I use fiberglass resin?

And I have to use a rust reformer right?

Or bonding glass

And what type of sealer should I use

Anything else I might need I don’t have a welder or what else would I need to have?

Howdy folks! Need some advice.

Few months ago i spilled some oj on the center console. Quickly cleaned the spill and forgot about it. Then few weeks ago the down climate control button started acting up. It wouldn’t retract when pressed making the temp go all the way to low.

I used wd40 contact cleaner to fix it but that didn’t really do much. Then few days ago it got completely stuck. I had to push it really hard and even then it barely retracted.

I am now using the screen to adjust the climate. Last thing i wanna do is take out the whole panel.

Would really appreciate any advice on how to fix it.

My son’s 2006 Passat has finally died. He is away at college and it’s in the parking deck of his apartment. Any recommendations for where I should have it towed? Maybe a place where they can use it for parts? The title is my name.

engine experts please assemble. need your help

my 2013 nissan sunny diesel needs an engine overhaul. is it worth getting its engine overhauled or replace the engine with some scrapped car's working engine ? some people say overhauling nissan sunny's engine is not very successful.

This is a 2018 Toyota Camry. I did not hit anything recently.

Daughters car had a dead battery this morning. Replaced battery with a new one. (Battery read faulty upon testing)

Did these click, cyclical noise initially when I hooked up the battery. Read codes - fault with PCM, TCM, and ABS. After resetting all codes and going for a test ride everything seemed fine. No clicks.

(Didn’t have a code on before the dead battery)

Then an hour later we noticed it clicking on its own after being parked with the key removed. Any ideas? Thanks

Can’t quite tell the source of the clicks.

I found a chip on my left hand back door (black Honda CRV), about half an inch wide. I know nothing about fixing this but it seems like something I could do with the right kit, rather than take it to a professional? Any recommendations for products available in the US? I would be content with an imperfect job so long as the door is protected against rust and the patch isn't too visible to a casual passerby.

I’ll sum up everything that’s happened so far for context:

-AC started blowing hot -after talking to some people/googling, it seemed like Freon was low, since the compressor would cut on and off every few seconds when AC is turned on. -got some R134a, the pure stuff not the hole patching stuff. When I put the gauge on with the engine and AC running full blast, the needle would fluctuate between low and the very top of green, even as I added more. The rate the needle dropped slowed down as I added more Freon, but I only added about half a can. I added the UV dye as well, and then drove around for 15 minutes with the AC on. -unfortunately, I spilled a little dye when adding it, and I forgot to put the cap back on the low side port before I went to drive around. When I got back and checked with the light, the video above is what I saw.

I can say with pretty high certainty that I didn’t spill anywhere near that much dye. So does that mean that port is the source of the leak? If so, is that something I can home repair, or is it time to bring it to a professional?

Also, in the video you can see there’s a hose that’s lightly glowing. Is that related to this? It seems like it’s just something else that happens to glow in UV light too, but I have no idea. Any input is appreciated!

All of the advice I can find online seems to be about the drains. I ran wire through easily without hitting any clogs. When I pour water it drains easily and exits behind the wheel. I really think it is more about this gap? But I don’t know what to do about it. When I pour water over the sunroof it rushes through this gap because the glass is a little bit lower in this corner. After a heavy storm I end up with a pool of water on my drivers side floorboard.

We were at autozone when this started so the guy did a scan on the car (2003 Toyota Camry V6 LE). The Scan said "Replace air/fuel ratio sensor(s) and reprogram PCM", also P0031 and P0051. I think these P00 codes have been present since she got the car in 2018. She drove it a mile home and when it got home it was running a little better but still wanted to stall.

Any ideas, thoughts or suggestions on this situation?

Hi all, This random wire is hanging, it’s black and red striped. It comes from the left with a yellow and black wire, both are shoved into to a fuse? Where should this go and what is it for? 1985 ford econoline

Hey all, I know this is an older SUV, but I wanted to share a bit of the backstory before diving into the issue.

This 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe belonged to my dad, who recently passed away. It means a lot to my family, and we’re hoping to keep it around long enough to pass it on to my oldest son (he’s 14 now). In the meantime, I’m driving it to work a few times a week to keep it running.

Here’s the issue: Every morning, the car struggles to start. I have to jam on the gas as soon as it turns over, or it will stall out. Once it's running, it drives great — smooth, reliable, no stalling, no weird noises, etc. Also after drinking it a bit and the engine heats up it seems to start a bit better, still struggles a bit but easier then when it's cold.

So far, we’ve:

Replaced the battery

Spent around $1,800 fixing a CEL issue — the mechanic said they had to “smoke the system” and found a broken hose. That got the CEL cleared and the car running better overall, but the cold start issue persists.

It has about 171k miles on it. I don’t mind putting a little more money into it to keep it going — I just want to be smart about what I fix next.

Any ideas on what could be causing this hard starting problem? I’ve read a bit about fuel pressure regulators, idle air control valves, MAF sensors, etc., but I’d love some advice from people more experienced with these kinds of issues.

Thanks in advance — this car means more than just transportation right now.

I have a scissor jack. I also just bought jack stand since I feel like it's safer, wider foot. I searched for the jack points for an acura mdx on the internet. So I looked at mine and saw a 4 inch thick metal hanging, maybe 10-12mm thick. I can't figure out how I will put the jack stand if there's only 4 inch thick jack point. Should I just return the jack stand to the store?

Here is the jack point I used last time but front. This is rear. It looks the same

Looking to purchase a vehicle and want to get opinions on if this is just the clear coat failing or a total respray.

Affected areas are hood, roof, and trunk.

Car is a 2007 Acura TL. Seller claims he got a quote of $1,200 to fix.

Picture links:

https://ibb.co/tTWYJb7s https://ibb.co/wrKC1vj9

Any insight you have would be great!

Hey guys, I just bought a 2013 Audi S5 that was crashed (front/front passenger) and am trying to fix it myself. I have already pulled off all the damaged pieces (except for radiator and core support). Does anyone have a list of brackets/parts that i will need to get to fix everything? Recommendations on where to get the parts would also be appreciated. Thanks!

Hey my engine is probably doomed but I'm really hoping one of you will tell me it's nothing. It has an exhaust manifold leak for sure.

It's a 1997 chevy s 10 4cyl

Hi, got error code P0117. Mechanic changed temperature sensor. When he tried to top off coolant, there were puddles under the car. He changed PCV valve connector and breather hose. I tried to research about PCV and coolant leak connection but could not find any.

Can someone help me connect the dots between P0117---coolant leak---PCV valve connector?

Both my headlights went out recently (first one side and then a couple weeks later the other side), the regular bulbs and the high beams. Checked all the fuses and they're fine, and also tried swapping the relays in the engine bay but no luck.

I would go straight for replacing the bulbs but what confuses me is that the high beams still work when I flash them (assuming theres not a separate bulb for flashing, right?) which makes me think it's something else. And it's a weird coincidence that they all went out at the same time.

I'm wondering if it could be the multi function switch? Those switches look expensive so I'm hesitant to pull the trigger. Any thoughts?

So I bought this police car a while ago from a police department and when they took their decals off they stripped the paint from the driver side door. Any help is appreciated!

VW Scirocco/Golf 1.4t 2010 CAVD ~208.800km/130.000 miles. I wanted to replace my front pipe as the flexible part is leaking, however after some silicone spray i still couldnt get it loose, so i tried to whip it out of there with a screwdriver but that turned out to me fatal. So how do i remove this?? Also i cant get the lambda sensor out which was supposedly easy. Im worried of stripping it, any tips?