Hello all, I have just started developing my own black and white film this year, and after 9 somewhat successful rolls, I encountered these strange marks on the film. I have been using Cinestill D96 Monobath which I bought before I knew better, but this is the first time encountering this issue.

The strange thing is that a few images on this roll are completely fine. I included two of them as my 3rd and 4th images in this set to show what I mean. The rest all have this strange patterning. This was my first time using a stainless steel tank, and there was a little bit of rust, could this have reacted with the D96 to create this issue? Did I not wind the roll properly on the developing reel? Was my agitation too aggressive? I guess my main question is: Why did this only happen on some images in the roll and not others? Was this caused by the developer, or something else?

Thanks so much for your help! I am switching to Legacy Pro l110 going forward.

Technical details:

• Camera: 1940s Voigtlander focusing Brillant
• Film: Arista EDU 100
• Developing: Cinestill D96 Monobath, 10th roll. 5 Minutes 45 developing at 80 degrees Farenheit with constant agitation

Hello, I've been noticing black vertical streaks on my black and white film and would like some advice.

These are bulk Kodak trix that I roll into reloadable canisters, shoot, and then develop in a multi-reel 5 tank.

I've recently developed a batch of 5 rolls, and noticed this streaking on 4/5 rolls. I also noticed for one roll, development spots on the sprocket holes that mostly don't affect the negative, except for one frame. But the vertical streaks are a bigger deal for me

Where is this issue coming from? Is it the canisters, or my camera, or the development process inside the tank?

Any advice on how to resolve this would be helpful, thank you

I was gifted this Beseler 45M enlarger recently. It needs a serious cleaning after sitting in garage for the past 20+ years. Despite the chipping paint/coating and some light rust and tarnish it looks good and everything seems to work. The bellows are dried out and have some cracks. Any tips to re-condition the bellows?

Normally my Tmax films come out with a transparent base with a light purple tint to it. Now I have this weird half dark half normal look to my negative and I’m wondering if I did something wrong. Any help would be much appreciated. I used HC-110, dilution b, and distilled water with ilford’s rapid fixer.

I think my enlarger was slightly out of alignment for this one because the grain is slightly sharper as you go towards one corner. Now I understand what people mean when they say the Intrepid enlarger is difficult to align!

• Ilford MGRC Pearl 5x7
• Pentax 17 / Fomapan 400
• Rodinal 1+50
• Intrepid Compact Enlarger

Need help sourcing a 39mm thread lens board that would fit my enlarger

250€.

The development machine is a Autolab ATL 500. It was half disassembled but I managed to put it back to work.

Still have to shoot a room to make sure it’s 100% ok.

EDIT: it's for 'long term' (a year?) use from a bag in a box wine container

I mixed up 5L of XTOL with tap water instead of distillied water because I wasn't concentrating (when I packed my stuff to go home I realised I hadn't used my distilled)

How screwed am I? My water is hard, see the report below:

Quick question: when shooting following the Zone system and placing shadows on zone III, I would assume you would push +1 or +2 (which is +-10%-20% dev time?). But that also means you have to consistently shoot your roll exposing with the same metrics, right?

I got given this safelight but when ever i hold it up to a light it just doesn't let any light through are you supposed to take the 2 halfs of it apart

Shot with HP5 on an Olympus 35mm half frame, and printed in my spare bathroom. I used this image for the birth announcements. He’s one month old this week 🥰

So i got given this paper for free and I've already printed on this but its so faint its it worth to keep trying considering its probably quite old

I'm about to try stand developing, but every guide I've came across either develops multiple rolls at once or uses a big tank. However, I have a tank for only one roll with a 250ml volume (the smallest Jobo tank).

I have read in several sources that the minimum amount of Rodinal (I'm actually using Fomadon R09 but that's the same thing) is around 5ml. But that amount would put me way over the usual 1:100 ratio and I'm worried that I would overdevelop my film.

So, what would you reccommend? Using 5ml (around 1:50 ratio) or go for 1:100 despite the small volume (only 2.5ml of developer)? I developed the previous roll with 1:50 using standard development times and agitation and got a good result.

I’m about to develop a few rolls of Kentmere 100 shot at iso 200. Which of these developers would you recommend? I like a relatively fine grain with balanced contrast and smooth greys.

I've found a good deal on a Durst M605 with a colour head + darkroom equipment. This is my first time printing; many suggest buying a condenser one and using filters to get sharper and higher-contrast prints.

Should I search for a different one, or is a colour head still good per B&W printing?

Sorry, this is a non-photography question but I figured this forum would be the best place to ask.

I want to make a solution for lichen identification which uses CD-4 (Colour Developing Agent 4).

The recipe is as follows: 0.62g CD4, 2g anhydrous sodium sulphite, & 20ml of water.

How dangerous is CD-4 (Colour Developer 4)? Does it dissolve easily in water at room temperature, or would I have to heat the water first? Since the CD-4 is in powder form, I assume that it would be best to wear a mask to protect myself, what kind of mask would you recommend?

I just want to make sure that I'm not doing anything too dangerous in a household setting!

Thanks!

I’m looking to print 11x14 for someone, however i believe I will only do it this one time since my space is limited and I enjoy the 8x10 since more than enough.

My trays only fit up to 8x10. I’m not looking to buy new trays since k won’t use them.

Any recommendations for something found around at home can be use at trays? Right now my only idea is using baking sheet trays but I feel like they are a little big.

Does anybody have times for the combination? Any examples of how it looks?

Gear: Nikon F5, SIGMA 18-35, HP5 400 plus Print: FUJIMOTO 90M-S, 16seconds, f11, filter ilford 3 1/2

Can anyone recommend night vision goggles that don’t cost a mint and are currently available to help load developing reels in the dark?

I just picked up a free enlarge so I can do some printing at home but I don’t know what chemicals and other supplies I really need. Any affordable small scale recommendations for developer, stop bath, and fixer? Also do I need those special red/grey bins or could something from Dollar Tree work? Same with tongs, do I need special ones? And tips or recommendations are appreciated!