I'm a long time gimp user but this has me stumped. Everything was working as usual until now:
When I click a layer in the canvas, that layer is selected for only as long as I hold the mouse button down. As soon as I release it, the previously selected layer is active again.
If I click a layer in the layers window, it becomes the active layer. It should work the same way in the canvas window, it always did before.
I'm running gimp 2.10.30 on Suse Leap 15.6. I've re-installed gimp, I've made sure that the move tool option is set to 'pick a layer or guide', I've even removed the .config/GIMP directory so that gimp could create a brand new one. None of these things helped.
Just recently installed 3.0 and want to add some custom brushes. When I go to Edit>Preferences>Folders it leads me to a Temporary 3.0 folder...where is the brush folder to add my brushes (and all the other GIMP folders, for that matter). I can't seem to find GIMP 3.0 in either of the Program Folders either.
gimp 3 the rectangle ctrl c pastes a bunch of transparent padding unlike 2 which i dont want at all like thats the whole reason why i used the rectangle and then copy, can i change it back to what it used to work?
So, I found this image online and want to turn it into a cross stitch, but its too detailed. I thought maybe I could use GIMP to make the backround plain black, leaving only the character, the lantern he is holding, and a few of the butterflies untouched. I tried using layers and transparency, but its not working. Everything either turns out black or looks like I did nothing at all. So, how do I go about doing this? Also, I am a complete beginner when it comes to GIMP so, how do I add layers if that could help? Answer like i'm 5 if you can.
I may be having a brain fart, although I'm not super experienced in Gimp and just installed 3.0.
I am trying to create a Wind filter at a 45 degree angle. The only options available for the filter are up/down/left/right with no arbitrary degree for an option. It doesn't matter what angle the image is at, the wind direction doesn't change and rotating the layer causes the wind filter to update in real time to accomodate for the updated angles (downward wind will keep the wind at the bottom of the layer facing straight down, no matter what).
I downloaded the G'MIC plugin and tried running GIMP, but got this error. When I use the app, it doesn't appear in the Filters menu. I'm using GIMP 3.0.0 from gimp.org and the "latest dev" .exe on the gmic.eu site
The version is at the bottom rightI'm using the .exe installer shown
Hi Guys, First time playing Warthunder lol and I decided to do some custom skins. I am using Gimp 3.0 for editing, I wanted to customise the Panzer iii E which I have export the body file to .DDS file and import it to Gimp and the result came out like this? I was wondering if it either the file is not compatible with Gimp 3.0 or is it possible that I did something wrong? Let me know :)
I regained access to one of my main archives and this was one of the images that I found… just thought I’d share simply because it was created solely using GIMP!
I'm an amateur, at best, but it seems much harder to do very easy things. Something as simple as linking layers so I can move them together seems to have become much harder to do. I know it could be me, but this update, long in the making, seems to be a step backwards for some functions.
First, we’ll add a new layer by clicking the New Layer button on the bottom right of the screen (see right). Next, we’ll change the Mode of the new layer to Overlay or Multiply. What’s the difference? Overlay will blend the photos colors with the color of the layer above it, Multiply will enhance the base color of the photo layer when it blends with the color layer above it. Basically, Overlay lightens the photo and Multiply darkens the photo. There are over a dozen other blending Modes available. Most won’t be helpful in this process, but some like Soft Light, Screen, Addition and Lighten/Darken Only may be of use.
the rest I can understand that but bit above I am missing something I am trying to edit a black and white picture
I am looking for a method to maintain the contrast and perceptual luminosity of an original colored picture/image.
Sorry I had to use an external host to maintain pixel accuracy.
I did a little test with a sprite from Brackey's Godot tutorial.
Can you give me your advice on the closest to the result I described ?
To me none of them has got exactly the same contrast/luminosity as the original picture.
At this point, I'm begging someone to explain it to me like I'm 5. I just want to get the names of 'drawable' layers passed to my procedure in a set of one or more.
I'm using a 'screen' method with a layer group of layers that contain a unique radial color gradient with local subtle variance and a sort of mask layer below to cast the individual color layers on. I'm using this to generate different colored assets for my neon glow themed game.
This is Gimp 3. My script starts with the 'script-fu-export-layer-variants' procedure in the middle of the text editor. The procedure takes the open image and its selected layers, prompts for a target folder and filename extension, and parses through the selected layers passing them to the 'script-fu-show-export-hide-layer' procedure above. The helper procedure shows the layer, exports the image using the target directory with a file name that concatenates the layer name with the originally provided filename and .png extensions, and hides the layer again to carry on. It's my (probably flawed) understanding that chararray is a representation of a string, but I get an error telling me it's not a string, and the only solution I've found that more specifically gets a name of a drawable has been deprecated and points back to this procedure. The script works as intended short of layers' names being added to the filename causing them all to overwrite the same file.
I'm exhausted from hours of parsing through nearly non-existent/outdated documentation for a little dozen-line automation script. I have no further direction other than pushing through deeper pages of Google hoping not to get pranked by 15 year old forum posts. Please tell me what I stupidly overlooked so a whole day's work isn't wasted.
Yes, Windows 7 IS outdated and many programmers already disontinued the support as like Microsoft did a few years ago. I am well aware of that fact.
BUT: Windows 10 ans 11 have tons of bugs, the last 1,5 years even at home I were mostly busy with arguing about broken features and performance losses in Windows 11, not telling about data privacy but serious security matters too.
That is why I would lile to start a little survey: Who else wants to have Windows 7 to be a little bit longer supported too? Maybe, just maybe we are in luck and GIMP hears our calls like e.g. Mozilla do with Firefox.
I need some help. I'm wanting to make a photo collage in Gimp. what I'd like, is a collage where the photos are just, randomly placed, blurred into each other, not using static lines or grids.
Does anyone have a video they can link or know what I'm trying to look for? the collage videos I find online lean into using grids to build the collage. I'm just trying to create a mishmash of an image.
think of, the types of photo collages you might see in the 80s/90s in a dorm room. Cut out pictures from photo's, glued onto paper.
Since upgrading to GIMP 3 my Cintiq 13HD is no longer working correctly with the program.
Issues:
The eraser and pen tip are not selecting tools properly. Normally if selecting eraser (or any other tool) with the eraser end of the wacom pen, GIMP will automatically switch to this tool when the pen is flipped.
Pressure is no longer working. I have basic dynamics selected, but this now only gets darker after a delay rather than true pressure.
I've looked in Input controllers, I've set up GIMP in Wacom Tablet Properties and still nothing seems to be working
I have a headshot that's had its background removed really well - except one spot around my neck and left ear, where it's obvious when I paste over a dark background. I don't know if it's light, white space, whatever.
But short of doing a pixel by pixel edit, is there an easy way to at least reduce that "aura"? It doesn't have to be perfect, just better.