I've learned that I can modify the stop mechanism by loosening the screws or adjust the flow control valve to get the cart to lift more at a time. But I can't find where these things are on the cart, and have no idea how to adjust them. (I'm not mechanically literate, but I tried to find the answer online.)

I bought the hydraulic lift cart as a sort of elevator for my dog to get up and down from the landing to the top floor of the house. And having it lift 1 or 2 inches with each step takes forever to get up the 4.5 feet. (She's got serious arthritis in all her joints, and I live on the top floor of a split-level house.)

My dog is about 40lbs and the dog crate I put on top of the cart is pretty light, so I'm not trying to lift a dangerous amount of weight quickly. I'd ideally like to be able to lift it 6 inches or more with each step, if
that's possible. Otherwise each time I take my dog into the house, she's going to be on that crate for a long time while my leg wears out.

The one I purchased is from Amazon: "Hydraulic Lift Table Cart, 770lbs Capacity 59" Lifting Height, Manual Double Scissor Lift Table" at: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1F6L59H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I appreciate any advice or specific information you can give me, as I have no idea what I'm looking for
and what to do with it even if I could find it. (And I apologize if this is the wrong kind of question for this group.) Thanks!

Correct way to measure a slot.

I have a new issue I've never seen. I know how to fix it but I wanted to know the correct way to check it. I have a .375 x .60 slot on some parts I've been doing for 5 years. Tolerance is .375 +.006 - .002. On my cmm and the company I'm doing them for cmm the check .379/in Tolerance. But now they decided to reject them because a no-go pin(.383) will go in the center of them. It will not slide back in forth in slot. Just center whe're i predrilled them with a .375 drill. A .379 pin is biggest pin i can slide back and fourth in the slot. I know I can use a smaller diameter end mill and drill to get rid of the issue. Only problem is cmm still checks good and it made me question what is the correct way to measure width of slot. The biggest pin that will go side to side? Whatever pin fits in largest part? If it's like a good pin, it's has to slip the whole slot. Why would that not be same for no go pin to decide parts bad. Once again, both CMM's i checked on had Same reading with .0005. Now that they started checking them with pins instead of cmm they say there bad. I've ran 20k-24k parts in last 5 years and all still/have check good on cmm? Anyone know correct way to measure a slot width?

This colander's base has broken after many years of use. It was spot welded on in the factory. Do you think it may be possible to use a flux core or stick welder to repair it by just tapping it? I am aware that the metal is really thin and may burn through if you do it for too long.

The other alternative I was thinking was to drill it and rivet it.

Let me know your suggestions for welding, riveting, or an alternative.

Hello everyone, I’m a high schooler looking so make some side cash by making things out of metal. I’ve always loved metal work and welding. I was just looking for input on what sort of simple projects I could do outside of school and work. Currently I have a stick welder, and a grinder so nothing fancy please. Just some basic projects to sell that I can use the money to get more tools and more toys. Thanks for any input!!

Hello Metalworkers!

I am a woodwoorker, very rarely have to work with metal tubes. I have a need to insert an aluminum sleeve into piece of wood to line what is essentially a fancy cup holder. The aluminum tube/sleve will protrude about 12.75 mm (1/2") above the top of the wood pievce. The tube has an OD of 76 mm (3"), and has a wall that is 1.8mm (.07") thick.

What I need to do is somehow rollover the end of the tube so it is not at all sharp - similar to the image.

Aside from using a lathe to roll in the ends, is there a die or a press I can buy or rent to do this? or would I better off going to a machine shop and having them do it for me?

Thank you all in advance!

So I have a primeweld plasma cutter with pilot flame. the torch must use stand offs.

this is all nice but the stand offs are not perfectly round and also quiet large. so cutting anything not straight is hard. Also the offset from stand off to cut is about 1/2".

So its hard to cut anything where I dont have 1/2" to clamp.

Buying a new pro plasma cutter is not an option and I wonder, can I just buy a chinese plasma torch that does not use stand offs? There are some that just ride on the tip.

Can I use one that is made for non pilot flame machines or will it not start?

Primeweld says that I can take the stand off off but it will not last long and should not be done.

I’m trying to dispose of an old oil tank from a monitor heater.. No one wants anything to do with it.. I had one recycle company tell me there has to be a 12 inch hole cut in to it but, couldn’t offer any contacts or how to’s . Another place said they would take it cut in half but, once again no other advice.. I live in North Carolina and not sure if it’s a state thing or federal… Can I cut this thing myself? I don’t have the balls to get/use a plasma cutter. Could I use a grinder? I’ve heard you should fill it with water and then cut it. Any suggestions would be appreciated..

Ran into a crazy sidewalk setup with really high curbs (7-8"). Dark and didn't have time to divert...just came to a dead stop after dropping off one curb and running into the other. Around 250lbs of weight plus 80lbs from the bike....just STOPPING. Bent the hell out of the steering tube. I bought a stainless steel bar, that's slightly undersized by a few millimeters, to insert down one end, but it needs to come in from the crown (part that holds the pistons) as the top has a star nut that can't easily be removed (or replaced on my budget of zero dollars). I had intended to insert the stainless bar and hammer at the bent section until I could insert the bar more and more as the bend is worked out, providing some semblance of support. Is there a better way of doing this? Has anyone done this?

Hi everyone,

I wasn't sure if this was the right sub to ask, so please let me know if not.

But anyway, about 6 weeks ago I decided it was a good idea to sand (with various grits) a piece of chrome-plated ABS plastic inside of my apartment with no mask/respirator or much ventilation. (Fwiw: it was the piece of molding that goes around the grille of a car).

I didn't experience any symptoms that I can recall, but after looking into it now, I see that this plating contains substantial amounts of metallic nickel (carcinogenic). I worked on this project for a few hours over the course of a few days, didn't think much of it, and vacuumed when done.

However, I'm now worried I've predisposed myself, and more importantly, my wife, to cancer. There was somewhat of a smell while I worked on it, but I assumed that was the plastic being sanded in the process. She was around for a portion of the time that I worked on it, and I worry that the dust has been floating around and was breathed by her and I over the past ~6 weeks.

I apologize if I sound crazy, I'm just worried about my wife's safety, and am unsure where else to ask.

Any help/reassurance would be appreciated, as I feel very guilty about this.

I bought these copper garden plate tags for my husband’s garden and thought I would label them using metal letter stamps - it’s perfect EXCEPT the “v” crinkle that’s happening above each letter.

Is there anything I can do to fix that, technique wise, or is the foil just too thin? I’m using a small hammer and tapping it once with medium force. If I go too light and it doesn’t make a deep impression.

TIA - I appreciate your expertise!!!

I got this stainless steel plate laser cut for a kitchen project but it turns out I underestimated how polished the material was that I picked. Is there any practical way to get from this surface to a more matte finish? I'd be willing to buy a tool and invest a day of work if it's realistic to get a good finish. (I'm experienced with wood working, much less so with metal.)

Or would it be smarter to just order again, this time with the right material?

I have sanded these tanks on the right side once with 320 and 600 and then polished it out but now I did the left side tank with 180,320,600,800 and it’s much better looking. But I’m getting these marks as I sand and can’t seem to get them out, any help here? Or just keep sanding to 800. It doesn’t look like the traditional swirls it’s like a rough spot or the sander has nicked it. Didn’t know if I needed to be concerned

Hello, I just recently joined this sub to see if I can learn some information metals. I have a few questions to ask and would be super grateful to receive answers from anyone!

My questions: Is there a cheaper method to clean the tarnish/oxidization from copper when in bulk? Would there be a way to stop or slow the oxidization of copper, again, in bulk quantities?

Here is the background for my questions: I have been given a task to have massive quantities of copper tubes (2mm diameter, hollow) cut to a certain length and sent to a manufacturing factory. The problem with this is that the copper tubes that were completely fine before the cutting ended up changing colors as it was stored in stock. Now I have a large quantity tarnished/oxidized copper tubes that I cannot use without cleaning the color off. I have talked to a few people around my area who seemed knowledgable and they recommended using an ultrasonic cleaner with DI water (nothing added whatsoever), and this would be the correct method to clean the copper tubes inside-out in bulk.

I know this is a really long and burdensome question, but I had my limits in searching up information - as I am not allowed to test and play around with the copper tubing in stock. I thank you for your time it took to read this post, please get back to me!

Thank you!

I was offered this lathe and I am curious about what brand it might be.

Sold new in Sweden, by a machine reseller (round logo) imported from Germany.

I think 1960s.

12 inch lathe

It’s a solid piece of kit with feed in both directions. Noisy engine but everything works. Unfortunately no tables for threading or feeds and speeds. Only the spindle rpm.

Very interested in all information possible

Please let me know if there is a better place I can ask this. If I hand sand steel (80g paper, 1006 CRS) BEFORE galvanization, will I increase the zinc coating thickness? What else can I do to increase the coating thickness (without adding too much cost)? Sandblasting is the obvious answer but that costs me $1/lb and management won't go for it.

I'm a QC engineer for a factory that makes turnstiles. We have an issue where this specific part is coming in with low coating thickness in some spots (like 1.5-2 mm). In these same spots, the galvanization comes off easily during the blasting process to prep for powder coating. I've visited the galvanizer and reviewed this at length with them to no avail. I believe we are seeing the Kirkendall Effect.

Anyway, I took an order of these parts today and I hand sanded the hell out of one of them in the critical areas. Will I see an increase in coating thickness?

Metallurgy is already controlled and known. We use low-Si steel to prevent "tree bark" and it's fine on everything else. So I want to achieve a moderate increase in thickness without the excessive, rough appearance one gets from high-Si steel.

When I receive the pictured mirror PVD I would like to clear coat it to protect it. I also kind of wish that I went with the black mirror version instead but it's too late at this point. Is it possible to darken/tint this? I know nothing about this sort of thing but eager to learn.

Will applying a coat to this in general tarnish the reflective properties it has? I'd like to avoid patina if possible!

Hey, fabricators and metalworkers. When working from a workbench using bench dog tools such as hold down clamps to secure your materials, what size dog hole do you use, or prefer, or most typically see?

I'm seeing that for most welding and fabricating tasks, 16 mm (5/8") or 20 mm (3/4") dog holes are ideal choices. Is that correct?

What are some of your most used bench dog tools? The tried and true tools?

Here are some pieces I've made, I can't wait to keep learning and testing mixing natural materials with metals! If you have any resources or even books I can utilize to keep growing, I'd love to hear recommendations 🌿 Everything shown is in brass, but I've worked with sterling silver as well. Teeth from animals, porcupine quills and stones are featured (along with some brass finger nails, because why not haha!)