I'm looking for the right parameters for tungsten carbide for a rough and finish pass using a copper electrode. I beg 🙏🏽

Apologies in advance as I will have a hard time articulating my confusion here, but thread milling baffles me. Also sorry for potentially wrong terminology, I'm relatively new to machining. As far as I'm aware, the teeth on a typical thread mill are totally horizontal. If you are cutting a 1/4 20 interior thread using a 1/4 20 thread mill, I don't understand how this results in clean threads, when it seems like it should just cut a smooth hole. The width of the teeth on the thread mill, or at least the width of the portion of the teeth that engage with the material at any point in time, are wider than the cross section of the grooves of the thread that is being cut. Thus, regardless of your feed rate in any axis, you should be destroying the threads you just cut as soon as you move lower in Z. I can understand as you move to larger hole diameters with the same thread pitch this stops being the case, but with the 1/4 20 mill and 1/4 20 thread example the physics simply don't work in my head. Again, I don't feel like I have the right vocabulary to really communicate what my confusion even is, but if anyone understands what I'm saying, please explain how thread milling isn't just witchcraft we've all agreed to just accept.

Recently had a random loss of air pressure while zeroing my workpiece in the z axis and had the mill crash into the workpiece. Luckly, the workpiece was soft aluminium so no major damage. However, a the insert sheared the set screw and deformed a bit of the tool holder as shown in the images. The new insert fits alright in the holder but there is bit of the holder missing on the top. Is this mill still usable?

Any help would be appreciated as the previous machinist ordered these years ago but have never been used. Company want rid of them but checking they are not worth anything or have a worth while function. Cheers

How to achieve a parallelism of 0,05mm? Do you have any ideas? Part is 1300 mm long.

I am trying to drill 6, 3/32 holes about 3/16” to 1/4” into aluminum (but not through). I am curious what sort of bit is best, do I need cutting oil, and what drill RPM speed I should use. I apologize if this is an extremely noob question, but I am used to working with wood and plastics, not metal. This is also a situation where I only get 1 shot to get all 6 holes correct. Any answers or suggestions would be truly appreciated.

I'm a manufacturing engineer with a background in both running machines as a programmer/ operator and managing machining/ assembly operations.

With this background I have been exposed to a whole lot of machinists who don't believe engineers need to be involved in the machining process and I'm struggling to disagree with them as long as the assumption is that the shop only does machining work.

Wanted to get your thoughts on the role you guys see for an engineer in a machining only type shop and whether an engineer truly adds value as an engineer or of an experienced machinist offers significantly more value.

I want to cut 1.5mm (16 gague) mild sheet steel components, which are 30 by 30 cm (12x12 inch) at most, for small scale machine housing production
this process does not have to be super fast or precise, and the scale is fairly small hence why I want a cheap solution
was looking at traditional laser cutting but seems expensive and id like to know other options, including building a machine myself
having a shop do it for me is not an option due to location

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Hello,

I recently purchased some AL 1/8" wall tubing where the bore is very non-concentric to the outer surface and I am having to turn it true using the bore pinched between a live center in my tailstock and a big countersink chucked into the headstock. This works fairly well. The flutes on the countersink provide enough bit to get it done

My question is... is there a specialized type of "center" out there that has flutes similar to the countersink but also a non-tapered shaft allowing it to be chucked? Or am I better off just sticking with the sountersink in the jawed chuck?

Or....is there a better way to do what I am doing entirely??

Thanks!!

Long story short, we're machining a big hole in a hydraulic manifold that has to go all the way through. I think it's 4" in diameter. Our drill isn't long enough, so we had to flip it and drill from both sides.
The hole going into the 2nd side, is off by a 1/2" and I'm trying to figure out a way to salvage this block. We can't make the hole bigger without compromising the integrity of the ports around it. We still need the full diameter the whole way through the block, but I don't think a slight curve will be an issue. Any ideas on how we can compensate for the error?

Managed to essentially get this piece of machinery for free so I am using it as an opportunity to jump into the machining world. Don't really have a reason other than a personal interest in machining & engineering, mostly due to my automotive background.

Only experience I really have with metalworking machinery is with drill presses and with brake lathes (im an auto service tech).. this should be a trip..

Have some mitutoyo measuring tools on the way for metric tooling and also got some home-grade imperial tooling because you gotta have both right? Lol

Any suggestions for resources for a beginner? Im mostly aware of the dangers of this kind of machinery and am pretty safety conscious in general.

I was searching for some informations about a bilgram gear cutting machine for a school project does somebody know something about it or some sites i can visit for further informations about this. Please and thank you, i looked at some sites and my manual that we use in school but i can’t find anything about them

Hey everyone I have a project coming up and I need to make 2 very small grooves on some stainless steel. The groove is .7mm(.028”) wide and .5mm deep. The only parting tools or cut off blades are much thicker. Any advice on how to make my own?

Haven't been in recent years- is it worth it?

TLDR bought some aluminum because I just needed "some aluminum", turns out this specific aluminum type machines extremely well and I'd like to buy it consistently from now on.

Hello . I want to ask , if I wanted to cut threads on the outside of a 10mm brass rod , what size die should I be using ? M10? . Thanks for any feedback 🙏🏼

The bottom one is a 3/4 inch BSP thread. The top one is a 90 degree elbow from a Falcon Dominator gas cooker, although it looks like it's been put on aftermarket. 1 inch NPT?

I’m trying to cut this 3/8” star shaped punch onto a 3/8” bolt that I cut the head off of. I’ve done a lot of projects on this Sherline unit but never figured this one out. I tried reconfiguring with a gear cutter set but can’t get the cutter close enough to the stock. Anyone else run into this with a Sherline? If I cut 2” off the bottom of the mill adapter then I could get it done but I’m not interested in wasting the mill adapter for one project.

Hey there. Wondering if there is a standard location(s) for measuring runout on a lathe and chucked part.

Just wondering so if Im having a conversation with someone i know we are comparing apples to apples

Re: I chucked a carbide burnisher…about .5” diameter solid carbide rod and took reading about 3” away from the jaws. Total runout of .007”

Not great Im sure but meets my needs.

Thanks!

Okay, so i have a  Fanuc Levil Lebil WVF400. I've done some research and Fanuc calls it the LMV 400 so idk. Anyway, I have a project I have to do and I don't know 1 thing about how to operate this machine. I have experience with the HAAS TM-1P. and Fusion 360 I'm quite advanced with that stuff. So if anyone could give me tips or just has a nice tutorial for it that would be great. it's old and it doesn't know where its tool holders are (I think I've only used it once before).

idk how to edge find my origin on my stock or even navigate the system really. complete noob so if anyone has info/tutorial that would be great thanks.

ive been looking at either a tormach 440 or a 770m or a waebeco cc-f1210

I'm into making balisongs and will be milling mostly 6061,7075 alu aswell as grade 4and5ti and many types of steel and want to know a good small-ish machine I'll also be cutting g10(fiberglass) aswell as plastic and wood but mainly alu and steel with some ti. What are some good smallish cnc machines, Anything that isn't one of those full cabinet massive honking things(and if it is not to big of a badonkerhonker)

i also need pretty tight tolerences(not super tight but as best as possible) because thats what butterfly knives need

what do i get?

This post is more about a video idea for hobby machining. I thought about making a video on YouTube looking at their various machining tools. What you you want to see me pickup. Any interest is that? Ways I should test or measure the tools? Don't bother because I'm just a hobbyist and dunno wtf I'm doing? Thanks for the feedback