Hi -
Wanted to say thank you to everyone in this reddit travel community - it was really helpful to us in planning the trip! Here's our trip report - hoping this can be helpful to others:
- March 23: Arrived SJU. Our family of 5 stayed at HiBird in Condado. I have to say - I read a LOT of reviews about this place before booking it and it was aces. We got the 2 bedroom penthouse (#702) with hot tub and it was really terrific. The location was right in the middle of the tourist area with easy access to a lot of restaurants, beach, grocery stores, etc. We were able to save a little bit of $ by making breakfast in the unit, and then going out to explore the rest of the day.
- March 24: Old San Juan. Took an uber to OSJ, went to El Morro and walked around the downtown area. Had lunch at Mallorca. One tip - if you want that Mallorca sandwich with the powdered sugar and ham/cheese, it's not on the lunch menu. You have to ask for it. We ordered off the lunch menu and then saw the table next to us order the sandwich. Oh well. The lunch off the menu was very good anyway. Dinner at Orozco's, which was good - just make sure to get the trifungo, not the mufungo. Much better. Best alcapurias we had on the trip.
- March 25: Beach Day. We took an Uber to Isla Verde and bought a Resort Pass to Courtyard Marriott so the kids could play in the pool and beach. Uber isn't cheap - $60 round trip to Isla Verde (10 min drive). I would say the resort experience was ok. The property is a little aged and the flights coming and going are very loud - it's right next to the airport. The wind was also blowing pretty hard that day, so the pool had a lot of debris in it. I discussed with the hotel manager and he was super helpful and gave us lunch, which we appreciated. Wife and I had dinner at Cocina Abierta - VERY good - plan to spend around $200 pp with the wine pairing and tip.
- March 26: El Yunque. Rented a car at Enterprise near the San Juan Hilton in the morning. Went to the El Yunque tourist center and bought a map (probably a waste of money, tbh). Nice to have real bathroom facilities before hiking, though. Hiked the Mt Britton trail (very modest hike), and then went into the waterfalls along the road at Juan Diego falls. Good fun. Lunch in Luquillo at the kiosks - chose Wepa Arepa, which was a good choice. Got a little snack of bacalaito afterwards at one of the kiosks nearby - the guy heated it up in the microwave, so I was skeptical - but I was blown away by how good it was. Fried heaven. Dinner at Burrito Social in Condado which was a fun environment and tasty.
- March 27: Culebra & Vieques. EPIC day! Took the morning ferry to Culebra and Flamenco Beach. Fantastic beach! Worth all of the accolades and attention. They also make it very easy with chair and umbrella rentals nearby ($5-10/ chair, $10/ umbrella) in kiosks, and a couple of food and drink options as well. Took a cab to the airport and flew to Vieques in a 5 seater prop plane through Aero Taxi. This was awesome!! The pilot was there early and we were ready, so off we went. Super fun to see the islands from the air and get to Vieques in literally 10 minutes. Once in Vieques, we met up with friends for dinner in Esperanza and went on the bioluminescent bay tour. This is such an incredible experience. We booked through Aqua Sunset and seeing the lights streaming under your clear kayak is so cool. Stayed at Case de Tortuga for the night. It was fine for 1 night, but I would not recommend. An incredible day nonetheless.
- March 28: Pork Highway and Rincon. Had a great breakfast at Kristy's in Esperanza and took the ferry back to Ceiba. Drove to the Ruta del lechon (aka: the "Pork Highway") in Guavate. It's an interesting drive up winding mountain roads with no houses around, suddenly you arrive at the mecca of PR pig cuisine. My mouth is watering thinking about the pork dishes we had here for 2 hours. We went to 6 places and ordered lechon (whole roasted pig) + a side at every one. Some were better than others, but all were pretty darn good. Our favorite was Los Pinos, but Ranchero Original was also really good. I would start the route at Rancho Original. Drove from there all the way to our lodging at Rincon of the Seas in Rincon. Dinner at the main square in Rincon at Vatos Locos, which was recommended and lived up to the hype!
- March 29: Rincon. Stayed at Rincon of the Seas. I know this place gets good reviews, especially from people on Reddit, but I would highly advise against staying in the casita, especially if you get assigned casita #3. It was nowhere near in shape to host guests. I'll leave it at that. We spoke with the front desk and they re-assigned us 2 rooms in the main hotel, which were comfortable and appreciated. The resort otherwise was nice and the pool was great. We spent the day going to Crash Boat Beach and my kids loved jumping off the pier into the ocean. They have vendors near the beach for lunch - they were fine but nothing special. For dinner, we went to Cowboys in Rincon, which we really enjoyed. What a unique atmosphere and huge restaurant! No reservation needed. The kids got to run around, ride "horses" & play ping pong, and the food was actually pretty good! I shared a cowboy steak and sides with my 15 year old son and it was plenty.
March 30: Rincon. Stayed on the property and enjoyed the pool and walkable beach near Rincon of the Seas. Walked 5 mins over to Villa Confresi and had a lovely drink in a coconut overlooking the ocean. Right out of a postcard. Lunch across the street at the vendors off the highway - just ok. Dinner at Rincon Beer company, which was slightly above average.
March 31: Leave SJU. Drove from Rincon to SJU - about 2.5 hours. Had to try the Priority Pass lounge, which we heard was one of the worst in the world , haha. I didn't think it lived up to its awful reputation, but it wasn't good. Just there long enough to fill our belly and have a glass of wine before heading off back home!
It was a really wonderful trip, and I honestly wouldn't say there were any misses on this whole itinerary. If I could do it all over again, I might book a different resort pass for day 2, and try Kaplash for our last dinner in Rincon (my family vetoed as we had empanadas for lunch). Other than that, it was pretty perfect!