Comes with original instruction manual and cords too!

Anyone know what I can do with it or if I can find if it even works without breaking something

I'm trying to bypass the controller of my Christmas lights so they stay on all the time.

It connects to 220V but I measured 3.95V DC in the two silver squares between the black blob and the button to change modes.

I tried measuring voltage in the output of the MB10F and thought that would give me the DC voltage for the lights but the multimeter went haywire and showed 1, but the multimeter still worked.

I tried measuring the wire marked with red but it think it burned my multimeter. Now it jumps between numbers without connection and it goes to 1 when I try it on batteries or even where it showed 3.95V before. I never touched anything to the AC side of the MB10F. Does the red wire still have AC?

The wire marked with red is the one that goes all the way to the end without LEDs. The other four wires have LEDs.

I'll appreciate the help.

I have a small RC car that broke. Opened and there is a loose wire. Can’t figure where to solder it to?

I purchased these cheap thermometers from temu. I didn't expect them to be dead-accurate. Up to 0.7 degree difference is not a big deal but almost 3 degree difference is not acceptable. I opened one of them but couldn't see anything that may help to calibrate the device. Interestingly, the only probe I see is for relative humidity measurement, no visible temperature probe. I think they calculate the temperature by comparing the resistance values of the resistors, is this right? So, no possible calibration, it truly depends on the manufactured tolerances of the components.

I built one of Big Clive's supercomputer panels, as seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7f8jgvvJe-Q&list=WL&index=41&t=102s&pp=gAQBiAQB

Instead of blinking lights like he used, I used diffused color-changing LEDs. I used 470 ohm resistors. The resulting panel is pleasantly bright in full daylight, and too bright at night.

I thought of putting 1 or 2 diodes between the power cord and the panel, to lower the voltage by either 0.7 or 1.4 volts. That should definitely work to lower the brightness.

But, THEN I thought: why not make a selector switch to change the brightness as needed? I know it should be possible with a simple slide switch... but I'm having trouble figuring out just what switch I need, and I'm newbie enough that I don't have a good idea what's available.

I need a switch arrangement that would keep the ground as-is (I think?) but the selection would give me 0, 1, or 2 diodes in series between the positive lead and the panel. Maybe one of the diodes could go between the panel and the ground lead? IDK

Can you help me?

Hi sophomore student here,

Im making a remote controlled submersible with a xiao esp32c6 which controls 3 H bridge drivers. This is the schematic for a single driver. My question is whether this is fundamentally correct or not as I have made the circuit yet the bjt’s fail to conduct.

I took voltage readings along the pins of the transistors and this is what I got:

Collector: 12.4v Base: 2.75v Emitter: 2.70v

Keep in mind most parts are what I had on hand.

Thank you!

I have never seen this many of the same IC on a board in my life. Considering where it was found, it was likely used in audio, telecoms or some kinda of early computer. There is a completely cooked power rail up top so it is probably kept around for the cool factor.

Any guesses ?

Hello everyone!

We're a team of students working under the name Emmett, and we’re currently developing an electronic circuit simulator as part of our computer science studies.

Right now, we’re building the first beta version using the Godot engine.

What’s our goal?
To create a user-friendly, education-focused simulator tailored for elementary and middle school students.

We want to offer both 2D and 3D views to make it easier for beginners and intermediate users to understand how circuits work—bridging the gap between abstract concepts and real-world visualization.

We also have some exciting ideas in the pipeline, like a community-drive first-demo

n marketplace where users can create, upload, and share their own circuits for others to explore and use.

At this stage, we’re looking for feedback, ideas, and suggestions—and once the beta is ready, we’d love to welcome some early testers!

Here's our First demo.

Any kind of constructive feedback is deeply appreciated.

Thanks a lot for reading, and we’re excited to hear your thoughts !

I have designed this OpAmp audio amplifier and want to convert it to stereo. I bought the 2 channel version of that OpAmp and was now wondering if I can feed both + inputs from the save biasing network, R3 R5 C6, to save components, or whether I should create two.
In my spice simulations, I did not see a difference.

I was recently given several hundred 0.1uF 630V X7R SMD ceramic capacitors and thought I’d make a 10uF resonant capacitor for my induction heater capable of several hundred A rms. I would do this by making a 10x10 block of them and solder copper plates on both sides. After a bit of research, it seems that X7R ceramics aren’t the best choice for resonant applications as their capacitance drifts over applied voltage and temperature.

How much drift are we talking here? I don’t really care about that as the induction heater automatically adjusts its frequency, but am I missing anything else? Why don’t X7R ceramics make good resonant capacitors?

They only sell them up to 30cm max, for a reason? I need 1.5m +- of omnidirectional light source, the thinner and more Continuous the better.

These are twist lock style terminals usually found in photocells for lighting. I'm working on a project and need multiple sets but I've been unable to find them. (I de soldered these from a spare photocell I had) Thanks!

Any help identifying the name of this old connector (possibly German and typically employed in ships electronic radio equipment) would be appreciated.

Are these measurements good for a functional toroidal transformer?

Hey guys,

I often travel with my car for work, and sometimes I don't bother to go to a hotel and just sleep in my car. I would like to set up a little PC Monitor at my dashboard for watching TV/playing games in the evening. I would also like to always keep that setup there, but could that become an issue in the summer? The inside of the car can probably reach up to 70°C, are modern LCDs able to handle those temperatures?

It’s the black cap, with 180 printed on it. Same as the component that’s opposite to the exposed coil past the capacitors. Can it be repaired/glued?

This is a wireless receiver for a surround sound system.

Ive got an ISD1820 being supplied with 4V that is giving audio to an amplifier being supplied with 11V to a 0.5W 8ohm speaker and it sounds like pure static. Ive checked all my connections and they look good. What could the issue be?

Help with electronics on a 3d printed lamp. I'm trying to get the led lights to work on a project I printed. I know i might sound dumb because this is all new to me but im trying to get into diy and more intense projects so i thought this one should be so hard but i just cant seem to figure it out. Your supposed to be able to connect a usb c cable to a converter, from that to a dimmer switch and from the dimmer switch to the cob lights. You can also chain another converter to the other one and also power side lights on the lamp but as of now I would be happy to just get the main light working. Is the link to the project and also a simple diagram they had up. https://www.printables.com/model/41460-usb-touch-dimmable-led-desk-lamp-v14

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for an AXE712127A 12 pin connector, but I'm running into some issues — most sites like DigiKey or Mouser either have high minimum order quantities or charge a lot for shipping.

Does anyone know of a compatible alternative that's available on sites like AliExpress, or anywhere with reasonable shipping to Poland? Any help would be much appreciated!

I built this mini-disc song title programmer faithfully after the design of "https://github.com/fijam". Problem is it's my first electronics project and i have basically no experience in coding and the python program of "fijam" keeps crashing. I want to find out if my build is the cause or if its a setting i have yet to figure out in software.
Does sb know how i can test the ICs in the circuit with python maybe?
The MCP2221 is being detected by my win10 computer. I'm losing hours trying to get somewhere here without the experience. -_-
would appreciate the help of some engineer python wiz!!

I have to replace these two chips. Never used a hot air gun before. Tried to unsolder from an old scrap motherboard with no luck. Is there any work area prep tricks and tips i should know about before starting? If there is an open area under the board will the heat dissipate too much to prevent the solder from melting? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

I have a few of those buttons that will play a recording they use to train dogs. I'm trying to design a mini golf course where the ball will hit the button along the course and play a sound.

The problem is, the golf ball doesn't seem to activate it most of the time, either because it doesn't hit it long enough or with the right pressure. I've tried dropping it from various heights, rolling over it horizontally (like a floor booby trap), and hitting it at an angle at the end of a tube.

The second image shows the button taken apart. The black circle on the board is the actual button, which is pressed by a small protrusion in the center of the yellow button. There is a ring of foam to dampen the press. I've tried with and without the foam and get slightly better results without it

Does anyone have any ideas for how I could improve the success rate? I know this is a weird question. I could link a video if needed. Thanks!