Hi! My FIL got me this SinKeu Portable Power Station and I’ve tried to use it multiple times with the same issue. It says it’s fully charged, but the minute I unplug it, it turns off. It also won’t charge other items when in this mode

Is this user error? 🥲

Hello everybody!

Currently I’m trying to make an LED glowing sword for a costume I am working on. I have never worked with LEDs, so naturally I am a little confused and intimidated by the whole process.

I purchased an LED strip to run through the sword (first image), which I planned to power by installing a battery and an on/off switch in the handle. However, the battery I had ordered is a 3.7V battery (second image), whereas the LED strip says that it requires 12V.

The LED strip is 16.4 feet long, but I only plan to use around 3.5 feet of it. I didn’t know if this would make any difference on whether or not the battery could power it.

If not, I was wondering if I would be able to remove the tape from a 12V battery pack (third image) and rearrange the batteries to stack vertically rather than horizontally, and then tape them back together? I need the power source to be able to fit in the handle of the sword, which is why I considered rearranging them.

Hey all,

Trying to understand the need for "Test Mode" on the TN456. I mean, I understand the purpose of Test Mode, but I'm not sure if it is needed? After every battery is charged, the display shows the capacity. Isn't that the purpose of Test Mode? So do I need to run a test on batteries if I have already found out the capacity at the end of a charge?

So i bought a mini fpv racing drone for 80 bucks i chared the batteried until the charger told me it was full but wen i start to fly i can only fly for about 10 mins and idk why so i'm using a converter but i need the capacity and all that stuff from the baterie to convert baterie life but idk what stuff in here is important so can you giys give me a bit if help here batery

Hey all,

I've got a pack of these LED's - DC 2.0V-2.2V (IF=20mA) / 0.06 Watts / 2pin / DIP LEDs.

I've been using them with 3v coin batteries to power one at a time. But I'm now looking to use 8 of them in a single piece of art. I love playing with microelectronics, but still get really lost when it comes to figuring something like this out.

Ideally I'd like them battery powered, but happy to go wired if that's the best option.

Has anyone ever tried using a Dewalt 24V battery on a Bissell cordless vacuum? These look similar and same voltage. I have at least 4 Dewalt batteries, but only one Bissell and I’d rather not invest in another one.

I have a battery from Greenworks that came with a leaf blower that I rarely use.

The battery is a Greenworks LB6025

54V 2.5Ah 135Wh.

I'm designing a charger for it.

The included charger works fine on house current but I'd like to repurpose the battery for use in a small solar-charged system. I have experience designing DC-DC power converters. When I put 55 or 60V across the terminals it draws about 500mA of current and the battery gets warm, so I think it's charging.

I'm not sure if I need to worry about the "omega" and C terminals. I can find nothing about it online. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I recently moved to a new place with a nice terrace but no external outlet. At my last place I'd bought this very nice set of plug-in string lights that I'm loathe to replace because their 2200K temp and bulb spacing is magical and very difficult to find, so I'm hoping there's some kind of battery solution I can use.

I'm not super electrically savvy, but I'm a fast learner and flexible on solutions. Is there anything to be done here?

(The wattage of these bulbs isn't clear to me, either. 7w per bulb for 25 LED bulbs at 45lm seems incorrect, so my guess is it's <1w/bulb, but if anyone has insight that'd be great)

Hi all,

I have a battery vacuum cleaner that has a failure, meaning it reports an error via the LED. I took out the battery and it seems there is a PIC16 microcontroller interfacing an BQ76925 AFE. I did a lot of checks and everything seems fine, but what I found out is that the voltage on the NTC thermistor is always 0.

I found out then that the thermistor network is powered by the VTB pin, which in this case should output 3V3. If I inject 3V3 in the thermistor network, the vacuum starts right up and everything works perfectly.

Now to my question: does anyone have experience with failed AFEs from TI? It would be easy for me to just replace the AFE or just place a wire on to the 3V3 regulator to permanently feed the thermistor network while the vacuum is running (when it's not running, 3V3 goes to sleep so it will not drain my battery).

The other point would just be that the micro is stuck in some loop, but the LED flashes an error and if I inject the correct signal, there is no failure anymore and the vacuum starts right up.

Thanks!

Short, sweet, and to the point.

Is there ANY kind of battery bank (being the size of a small cooler) that would be able to be charged at a tesla power station? Does anything like this exist? I'm a big camper and it would be so damn easy to be able to just plug a portable battery into a supercharger and be on my way. I know nothing about electrical or batteries so i'm clueless. I hate having to drive around and spend tons of money on gas just to charge batteries.

Does anything like this exist?

I just got this camera as it was my late grandfathers and want to get it fixed up however the batteries have corroded over the past few years, I got the first 2 out with little issue but these 2 are put in vertically and nothing I do can get them loose does anyone know the best way to remove them?

I purchased 4 100ah LFP cells some time ago. Recently I got a BMS which is listed for 12v @ 100Ah. I'm thinking about combining them and replacing my UPS batteries ( currently 12v 35ah x2 in parallels) with them. I live in a tropical climate so no sub 0 temps ever.
What I need advice is will I be able to replace them without any issues? or do I need to redesign a whole new inverter system?

I have an old portable DVD player that the battery doesn't hold a charge. I want to desolder the cells in it and put in newer ones that aren't 15 years old. The problem I'm having is the width of the cavity is small and all the 7.2v batteries I'm finding (which is what the OEM one is) are over 37mm wide. I think I found a battery that will fit but it's 7.4v. What would happen if I use a battery that is .2V bigger than the one it had? Is it a case where the DVD player will only take what it needs?

Hi y'all, I recently upgraded my ebike battery from Li-ion to LiFePo4 (eBay BTR brand) and noticed that the battery meter on my bike was sitting at less than 100% after checking the voltage on the ebike screen it shows 54.4v and with my multimeter on the battery terminals its showing 54.8v. I'm wondering if the battery may be damaged? I'm charging it until the charger shows fully charged but the unit it came with seems really cheap but it's rated at 58.8v output:

https://a.co/d/4ZllAnS

I'm wondering if the charger may also be faulty?

I’m looking to build a custom machine that has 3 motors. Each motor is 36VDC. 21.7 amps. I can get some really good and cheap cells from batteryhookup.com,

I can build

10s 30V min 36V nominal 42V fully charged,

11s 33V min 39.6V nominal 46.2 fully charged,

12s 36V Min 43.2V nominal 50.4V fully charged.

my issue is getting the contestant 36V out of 10 or 11 or 12 s battery, I will need to reduce the voltage and as the battery charge drains the voltage will drop, but I must a constant voltage regulator or buck converter to keep the output at 36V. I’d love to find a unit that can handle all 3 motors, otherwise 3 separate units would be fine. Your input is appreciated

also if you can help with BMS that would be wonderful.

I collect pocket diagnostic instruments (oto and ophthalmoscopes) from basically the 60's. My absolute favorites are made of a fragile plastic. They tale AAAs but obviously the diameter of AAs and AAAs has grown over the decades and some don't fit at all.. Where could I get data on current makes and diameters of batteries?

Hi all. I am trying to wire
LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery Built-in 100A BMS, 1280Wh to work with my sump pump for back up.

Sump pump:
Voltage Rating : 115 volt
Amperage Rating : 5.2 amp
Frequency Rating : 60 Hz

Inverter:
2000w

I got fuse block terminal to go onto battery red with 250amp fuse.

My friend mentioned that I also need a fuse to go between inverter and sump pump.

I have no clue how to wire that part. Can someone please explain. Thank you!

Replaced the AGM battery in my SL500. Went away for a couple days came back, dead, completely dead, like sub 1 volt. What are the issues with recharging it? Is it going to blow up on me? Inquiring minds want to know (before I blow this thing up).

What I've: 12v 7.2AH lead acid Battery, 3s Li-Ion BMS board, Load 12v 500mA.

Question: Can i use BMS board for low voltage cutoff as i've shown in schematic. My doubt is will there be any shutdown because of current mismatch on BMS and what will be the cutoff volt. Any other inputs/suggestions are welcome.

The 12v battery is already getting charged from other circuit and not in scope of this post.

I bought an Epoch lithium battery, 12.8V, 50ah, 640wh, for a little trolling motor ladt year. I didn't use it too much. Put it in the garage end of Oct. Remembered it probably shouldn't freeze in jan (too late northern michigan) and brought it inside.

I just turned it on and checked it and it said 39% Under cells tab it was

Avevol Voldiff Vollow Volhigh

All were 39 or33%? E cept Voldiff which was 0

Questions Why was voldiff0?

I was thinking of using it tommorrow on myc10 rowboat and little trolling motor.

Should I run down the 39%? Charge it full tonight even though I don't expect tommorrow will drain it too much?

So i have a 48 volt lithium ion lawnmower, that uses two 24 volt 5ah lithium ion batteries. It doesnt last long enough to mow my front lawn, but i dont want to spend $80 on two more 24 volt if i could use my 48 volt lithium ion that has 10ah. I took apart my lawnmower and noticed that the two 24 volts that i was hoping would be connected in series to 48 volts before going into the motor controller but no, they both go in individually to the motor controller board circuit board as 24 volts each. There is also is a 40 amp fuse on the motor controller circuit board. So I am guessing i have to have to buy two step downs 48 v to 24 volt converters with 20amp output each to use my bike battery? In that case its not worth it because of the cost.

I also have a 24 volt 100ah lifepo4, and was wondering if i could use that by pairing of two pairs of positive and negative wires to the two receiving 24 volt receiving terminals on the lawnmower. Its a huge battery and overkill, but could i make a platform for it and do it?

Hey guys, I got this battery for a device, and I think I lost the charger. With the specs of the charger, would I be able to buy a computer charger or something to charge this? Looking for any ideas. I'm familiar with like soldering and tying wires together lol.

The battery says: 3.7Vdc 1300mAh 4.81Wh