Attractor that is

I fly a single seat aircraft for work. Due to the radio configuration I don't have any sidetone in my helmet which makes radio calls annoying at best since I usually end up yelling in the mic.

I recently started using a portable intercom as a workaround for sidetone. It works okay but it's a bit awkward. It got me thinking that I could possibly build something to give sidetone volume and squelch in a smaller unit.

This project is way beyond my current capabilities but I think it's possible, I just don't have any idea where to start.

Any ideas, advice or guidance is appreciated!

I am curious, what connects the joystick to communicate electronically through the board? I don't see any connectors to this, it's like the joystick is just magically doing it and floating. Same with the back lb and rb what part of the board do they connect to to send the signals?

If you could tell me the name of the connection parts.

Hello. I’ve watched videos of people turning their fitness bikes into generators and want to make something similar. I own a sunny health and fitness mini stepper that I want to use instead.

Problem is I have no idea how to execute, I’m not smart enough to comprehend the concept behind this idea, nor do I have the tools for it. When it comes to electronics I’m the equivalent of a little kid who needs their hand held to cross the street. However I am thinking of searching for 3d models online that may suit my needs. Does anyone have any advice they can offer?

Also, here is a link of the stepper I own:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Health-Fitness-Stepper-Resistance/dp/B0016BQFSS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have a replacement control board for a Waveshare 10.1 inch LCD. (Thermal issue: it is under warranty, but instead of sending me a complete new display, they only send the circuit board. Grrr!).

I have little experience with these tiny sockets. Based on the photo, can someone advise me how to open and close these sockets? Thanks very much.

I am making a project and its an midi piano controler with 25 keys and i dont know what buttons to choose if my budget is 1$ per button and they must be new and feel like piano or keyboard

The LED is one of those 3 mm ones (2.0 - 2.2 V, 20 mA).

The solar panel is a tiny DIY one, it outputs about 4,6 V.

The battery is LiPO 3.7 V, 400 mAh, and seems to be charging.

Any ideas?

Hi everyone, l've installed an Almonard heavy-duty 12-inch (300 mm) 90W exhaust fan in my room window (around 400 sq ft area) in Pune, India. The fan is mounted using iron strips with rubber padding, and the airflow is quite powerful. But I'm facing two key issues: 1. Mesh Problem: There's a fiberglass mosquito mesh in front of the fan (on the outside), and it seems to be reducing the airflow a lot, even though the holes are small (0.1 cm square). I cleaned the mesh, which didnt help, so:. Should I remove the mesh entirely? • If yes, what's a good low-cost way to still protect against mosquitoes, lizards, and dust? • Would placing a mesh 10 cm away from the fan (on the outside) help? 2. Sealing Issues: The fan is installed in a window that I still need to open and close sometimes, so sealing it completely is hard. • Would partial sealing help with airflow and noise? • What are the best budget DIY methods to: the sides and gaps while keeping it somewhat functional?

I’m looking for budget-friendly ideas and DIY solutions that I can do myself without spending too much more. Would love any tips, especially from others in similar hot and humid climates.

I would need a small container/box, that could be attached to the vest of my very small dog. I could trigger a mechanism using my phone and bluetooth, that opens the lid of the container.

Bonus would be if there is a spring in the container that launches the content up in the air.

Is there anything like this that I could buy (like any similar mechanism), or would I have to make it myself?

And if I would have to make it myself, any tips?

Edit: Wi-Fi instead of bluetooth would also be good if possible. Not sure how that would work.

Recently acquired a whole bunch of old 3d printers and parts like extrusions, stepper motors, power supplies, main boards, screens and a whole bunch of other little things. I'm going to be getting some of them just up and running again but I have no need for 7 of them so will still have a boat load of parts for other potential projects and I want ideas on potential cool projects big or small to make use of it all

Long Exposure

Hey folks,

I've been working with Vectric aspire 12 on my CNC projects lately and thought I’d mention it here in case anyone’s been trying to get into it or wants to chat about setup, workflow, or getting access.

Really useful tool for 2D and 3D carving, and it’s made a difference in my sign work and custom routing jobs.

If anyone’s been looking into Aspire or needs help figuring things out, feel free to reach out, happy to share what I can or point you in the right direction.

All the best,

I have a table lamp with an inline dimmer and I want to switch it out to a on-off toggle switch. However, when I opened the dimmer, I see 2 wires split for each side. I'm assuming one is the "white"and the other is the "black". However, on the toggle switch, there is only 1 nut for each side. Do I combine the white and black for each side?

(I'm holding the new toggle switch. The current inline dimmer is the one hanging in the background)

Or should I be using a different toggle switch?

Dell Inspiron 15 5510,  motherboard 213109-1 Cyborg-N15 MB TGL PTKX9$LB

There is image but no backlight.

I have the Boardview, but I haven’t found the schematic.

There is no voltage on LCD connector pin 11 (LCD_BRIGHTNESS) nor on pin 12 (BLON_OUT_C).

I have 13.2 volts on pins 1 and 2.

I have 3.36 volts on pins 6, 7, 10, 17, 18, 28, 30, and 33.

Pin 31 seems to vary between 3.36 and 3.02 volts.

Pin 35 has 1.65 volts.

 What I believe is the LCD fuse (P1124) is good.

 Any suggestions on what I should look at?

Also, does anyone have the schematic?

Thanks!

Hey guys, trying to repair a pair of awesome Corsair Virtuoso headphones that stopped working.

When I opened them a wire had come lose from the speaker to the chip board controller inside the headphones left ear.

I tried to strip the wire back enough to solder it back on but the wire is a bunch of tiny fibres and I have no idea how it's mean to attach to the solder point.

Firstly, is this recoverable or should I throw in the towel? These weren't cheap and they are perfect for my oddly large head so I'd prefer to avoid this.

Is this possible for a beginner?

I am not new to the soldering iron but this wire is throwing me

Thanks all

Have included pics of the offending wire.

The blue side wire is the one that is confusing me.

The wires solder on to the two exposed points in the second image.

Probably not the first to think of this, but:

I decided to drop some flux-covered nasty PCBs into my Elegoo Wash & Cure Station just to see if the IPA would dissolve the flux from my boards

It worked great!! The board came out COMPLETELY clean. This was for liquid flux, so the gooey stuff may not work as well

I ran it for ~20mins and it was squeaky clean!

I want to power a 50v (max) MPPT pump controller with two PV panels in series that put out 74v open circuit. How can I reduce the PV output voltage to match the pump controller? The short circuit current of the panels is about 8a.

So I have LCD panel that has a weird resolution (2880*1800) its got a bit of burned pixels on it but not even close to something I will throw into trash bin. So I thought what is there a way to make a secondary monitor out of it. And yes there is a way but I could find my exact resolution. So I have LCD pannel that has 4o pin edp and I want to make a monitor that connects via HDMI/DisplayPort is there any 2880x1800 res pcb controllers that does that and if not are there any potential drawbacks of using 2560x1440 ?

Tried to desolder my mouse switches for the first time, I might have forced it too much before I understood how to properly remove them.

When I install the new switches, my left click doesn’t work anymore. I’m afraid the little round copper piece (forgot the name) might have ripped off with the switch? Can you tell from this picture? Anything I can do to fix it now or is the PCB broken?

TIA - a new DIYer

Pic

I have an idea to build a travel router using a ZimaBoard 232. Here's the plan:

The internet will come into the ZimaBoard via Ethernet or through an ASUS PCE-AC51 card connected to the board's PCIe slot. The internet will then pass through AdGuard Home before it passes though NordVPN. I also want to have the ability to virtually change the location via NordVPN. After the internet has passed through NordVPN, it will be output through the second Ethernet port on the ZimaBoard and simultaneously through a TP-Link Archer T3U Plus AC1300 antenna connected via USB, creating a dedicated Wi-Fi network.

I’m unsure how to implement this from a software perspective. Does anyone know how this could work?

Bit of a long shot, but I’ve managed to lose 1 earbud from 2 different sets of bluetooth earphones (different brands) leaving me with a left and right, one from each set.

Is there any possibility that I’d be able to pair these together such that they’d work as a set?

Like, really. Unless you 100% know what you're doing, prefer PBS-legs instead of direct soldering. They are dirty cheap, and not only it will make your controller changeable (even if you plan to have this device as permanent), it also gives plenty of precious space underneath the controller for some additional stuff, like resistors, capacitors, whatever. Or, like in my case, I even found out it's a nice place for a switch. The only drawback is that it'll make your device thicker.

Also, I was recently assembling SlimeVR trackers. Everything was going nicely (I've successfully assembled 2 of them), until I soldered two ESP's upside-down in a hurry :D Still can't unsolder them even with a heatgun. With a proper PBS-socket, I could just insert them.