It's a 20v40w. Hope this is the correct subreddit, if not please move. Thanks.

I’m looking to install a ELV dimmer for an integrated LED flush mount light I installed. I’ve tried several Lutron and Leviton dimmers and all cause buzzing in the light. Doing research apparently this integrated LED fixtures have transformers which require ELV dimmers and ELV dimmers require a neutral. My switch box does not have a neutral wire. How hard is it to add a neutral wire? There are two wire bundles in the light box, see second picture, if I run a new wire from the light box to the switch box can I tie into a neutral at the light? The switch only controls the one light. Thanks for your help.

Recently an inspector has told me that my wirenuts that I'm using to tail aluminum to copper must be rated for aluminum. I have used Ideal red wirenuts with Noalox inside for over 20 years and this is the first time that this has come up. My question is what do you guys out there do? Do you buy the expensive purple wirenuts? Do you just use regular wirenuts with Noalox?

Apologies for making a separate post, but I am new to reddit and didn't realize I couldn't post add pictures and the thought never crossed my mind originally. This post is merely to be here so I can link it with the other one. I will try to answer questions on both posts, but it would be best to just post there as it has all the information.

Hey all,
I’m setting up a 50 amp 240V generator plug for backup power and wanted to get some opinions on the best way to handle it with my current electrical layout.

Here’s what I’ve got:

• 400 amp main service with two separate disconnects. One disconnect is for the garage panels that covers all the inside appliances, well pump, etc. and one disconnect that is for the ac, "cabana" and pool equipment.
• One main panel and three sub panels spread across the property.
• No local disconnects in the sub panels
• There’s a breaker labeled “cooler” in the main panel that’s no longer in use and can be repurposed
• A 120V outlet below the can that be removed to free up space

I’m working with a buddy who runs a CNC shop—he specializes in making custom interlocks, and we’re designing one specific to my setup to safely connect the generator.

Curious how you would go about wiring everything—especially making use of the available breaker space and ensuring everything stays up to code. is there a clean way to handle it from the main?

Appreciate any input or similar setups you’ve dealt with!

Can anyone tell me how to de-pin these? I can’t figure it out for the life of me

I’m in the process of swapping out some light switches in my home for smart switches. I did this before in my previous house and I’ve picked up some very minor electrical knowledge along the way. I know how little I know, and also to respect and fear electricity… which is why I always triple check before I touch any wiring.

I’m looking at a strange situation. I’m trying to turn off the breakers for the lights in my kitchen so I can swap out the light switch. But no matter what I do, power remains! I’m not even doing any testing with tools like a multimeter. The lights just stay on.

At first I thought that the breakers were mislabeled which happens all the time. So I tried other breakers and no matter what I did - the lights were on. In fact I tried turning off all the breakers. I didn’t touch the main breaker because I don’t want to mess with that one. But if I turned off all the breakers… the lights are still on in the kitchen.

It’s kind of freaking me out tbh. I’m sure the answer here is to call a professional to diagnose whatever problem is wrong in my breaker box right? I definitely can’t fix this myself but I like to understand what might be going on out of curiosity.

I was trying to sleep with AC on and fan on full speed. But, then there was a loud noise just now and fan stopped working. AC kept running. I got scared and got up to inspect what's going on.

Electricity was working fine. But, there's a constant beep sound coming from the inverter. It stopped only when I turned off the main switch. So, I got a ladder to check the inverter screen and it says 'fuse blown'. Now, it's 4am and I'm alone in this flat and my mom is supposed to come at 5:30-6am. I was hoping to get a little sleep till then.

So, can I turn on the main switch and sleep using AC or should I keep it turned off and try using fan on inverter? I can also sleep in the living room which has 2 more fans but, I'm not sure if I should try any of these options. Someone please help as Google is not being so helpful and I can't even call anyone at this time. I cannot sleep without any of those options as it's summer 🙏🙏

Hey gentlemen. I am an electrician working on a school bus that is getting converted to a RV/ living space.

The bus will be fed by AC power. There are a couple of devices that will need DC power (vent fans and possibly a water pump). I plan on using DC converters that plug into AC outlets. My question is, after conversion to DC, will I need to fuse the lines going to the fans/pumps. The converters are good for the amperage’s that the devices need. The DC wire is 16 gauge which I think it good for 25 amps, and none of those devices require that much.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thank you so much in advance.

Hi everyone. I have a small understanding of electricals so bear with me lmao. Opening up i saw that the overlord switch was up (i think??). I was about to try and press it with a flathead but i realized i should probably not do that rn lmao. I'm just a dumbass that need some help. Any tips?

I have a 65 -75 year old Binks (Quincy) air compressor with an A.O. Smith Corporation motor that is wired for 240V. Sat in my basement for 40 years and never used. I was trying to sell it for $100 but decided to keep it after a viewer emailed me with some information.

The motor is currently running in the wrong direction and I need to reverse it for cooling and lubrication of the compressor. I attached the wiring diagram on the motor and the specs below. The issue I have is that the wires all appear to be thick black wires. I can see the group of 3 wired together and the group of 2. How do I go about determining the 7 and 8 wires for reversing? Not much info on the Internet for this motor. I suspect the Y R B G are wire colors which doesn't with all black wires.

Here are the motor specifications.

A.O. Smith Corporation Alternation Current Motor

1.5 HP, F.R 204, 1 PH, 115/230 Volts

60 cycles, Model C 204M4ABR, 1725 RPM, C Rise 40, Code J, CONT Duty, 17/8.5 amps

Type C ZB Protector, Ser.No. DF

Thanks!

I live in a pre-war building in NYC, and want to install lamps at the two boxes in my wall, but the wires look much more intimidating than what I am used to seeing. Several other units in my building have lamps already installed in this location, so I assumed it was set up to install lighting.

Can I use this to install wall lights using red as the live wire and white as neutral, or is this old wiring that I really shouldn't be messing around with?

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to reply!

I know nothing about electricity. I have to replace this switch, but I can't find any that match exactly (that will arrive fast enough at least). This switch says 15A 250V / 15A 125V. All I can find are switches that say 15A 125V / 20A 250V. Is the difference in amps ok, or will this cause an issue? It's an illuminated rocker switch for a popcorn machine.

The switch is a "Taiheng th2 t85 t120"

Hello and Happy Sunday to you all! I have this breaker that I think has failed and was trying to replace to get my hot tub running again, but I cannot seem to find the correct one. Do they even still make these? The one with the curly white lead is the new one I purchased, but it does not fit on the bar. Any help would be greatly appreciated, so TIA!

Hello, I want to preface this by saying this very thing happened about two years ago. I called an electrician and it turned out my main breaker was just slightly tripped. Once reset everything that wasn't fully working went back to normal. I tried resetting my main breaker again this time but it hasn't changed anything.

I was just cooking food in my oven and on my stove top, the food in my oven and the first thing I made on the stovetop cooked fine, but then I tried to boil water and it got steamy but would not boil. I tried cranking another element but it seemed to just get warm (I have one of those flat top stoves if that matters). I also had the dryer on and checked if there was heat and there wasn't. If this is the same as last time my hot water won't be working as well, but it's too soon to tell. These are all on seperate breakers, do I need to replace my main breaker? Is this something I have to call an electrician to do? Or if you have any other insight to what's happening I would love to hear it.

EDIT: I am realizing if I need to replace my main breaker I can't do it myself and need to turn off my power completely. Any other ideas for what could be going on is helpful!

Hey Reddit, My dad runs a small fiberglass/FRP manufacturing firm in India. His components are used in transformers, switchgear units, railways, water purification projects, and even machines like Shycocan’s COVID purifier.

He’s done work for clients in Australia, Dubai, and other international locations — but it’s all been through referrals. I’m trying to help him grow by reaching out here.

If you or someone you know might need fiberglass/FRP components, feel free to DM me. Happy to share more info. Thanks for reading and any help is appreciated!

Kitchen breaker went lump, won’t do anything. Took off the cover and saw this. How safe is this?

Can anyone help tell me what's wrong here? Trying to swap this basic switch to a Lutron timer switch as this controls a bathroom light and vent fan. I turned the breaker back on and the light flickers, fan doesn't turn on at all, and the switch doesn't respond. Thought I might have placed the neutral wrong and moved it up to the brass screw and it didn't respond at all.

Please and thank you!

We have a very small panel and we just planned a kitchen renewal, and because we are re do all the kitchen I have a couple of question: is an old house I know but we have two double pole breakers one only for the kitchen and one for all the first floor outlet. My question is if I want to separate the fridge from the kitchen outlet and do the same for the first floor by splitting the first floor in two section to divide the load do you think is possible? I know I can use these breakers to serve two separate 120-volt circuits but I need help if is possible. I have the help of electrician friend to check the work at the end/middle of the work but I need to start the job early to save some money and because we are technically late 😂. I know the theory and I did a lot of solar panel electrical system (I know is not the same 😅) I just need some help to buy the exact cable type and the best way to plan the job in a general way. Thank you so much guys for all the help I really hope I can start do something and let my friend check the work in the middleso I can save a little bit of money on the manual work of is possible

I have an outdoor light that is powered by a light switch located inside my house. I never use the light and it would be a perfect spot to put an outdoor speaker. What are my options? Is there anyway to power a speaker with the wiring for the light?

Okay so I have a shed and there is power run to the building but not tied into anything yet. There is a sub panel but the wire just runs to it and stops. The wire is 10/2 UF-B it runs back to a panel on the exterior of my home. This panel has 4 breakers inside it. One is 100 it feeds a panel the goes into my home that panel has individual breakers for each circuit throughout the house. The other 2 go to my hvac system. The last is a 30 amp breaker that is suppose to feed the shed I assume. Now in the panel outside the ground and neutral are connected to the same bar. I am going to attempt to wire the panel in the shed. I assume I need a ground bar since ita a external structure but it only has 3 wires the way it's wired now is the L connects to the breaker and the N and G connect to the same bar and then it runs to the shed. Is this correct? What should I do and how should I wire it. I can not afford an electrician I'll just be honest I can't. Any advice? Preferably not something smartass or overly complicated. Genuine help or advice or passing of knowledge. Thank you.

Hey hey!

Question… replacing a ceiling fan and there are a gazillion wires. Ceiling fan was taken down a while ago and just now getting around to replacing it. House from 1994.

1. The fan and light run on a single switch.
2. I know black goes with black.
3. Copper (ground) to the ground on the fan.
4. Just wondering if I connect these white wire from the fan to the bundle of three wires coming from the box?

Much appreciated!