Ford 460. 30 over, new everything. This is my first engine. It made it through the cam break in and has about 300 miles on it. This seems very excessive to me, but someone I talked to said it was normal for a complete rebuild and I just need to change the oil. I pulled the engine and everything looks as good as when I put it together. All lifters and bearings are perfect. There are no chunks or large flakes in the pan or filter only sparkles in the oil. Is this just normal for breaking in?

I am brand new to working on cars, and being stupid, I broke off a bolt on the front of the engine block, then while trying to extract it with a bolt extractor, i broke that off inside as well. I have tried drilling, and even attempted to weld a nut onto it. However, with drilling, I have only gotten this far with about 5 hours of work. Anything I can do? Should i just keep drilling? Or is it a lost cause? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Looking to build an engine with no aftermarket support (Chevy LKW/LCV 2.5L 4 cyl)

If i was going to send in a stock cam to a company to get a custom one made, how would i know how much lift is allowed without contacting the pistons?

According to pictures on RockAuto, the pistons appear to be dished. Does this imply there is no lift to be gained, or does it simply mean that by a certain point in the cycle the lift has to be down to a certain number? How do i find this information?

Thanks

Seen an older gentleman with hood up looking around. Asked if he needed help..he declined. Left store was still there. Started conversation, was sure he needed help. Engine misfiring. Look what i found. Spark plug dinged up and gap closed. First thought wrong size plug. Then saw marks all over. Figured dielectric broke and caused craters bouncing around. Nope small peice metal inside chamber rattling around going crazy. Had em crank it without spark plug amd it shot out. Any idea where it could have came from and what it goes to. Prety sure it migrated during rework. Only thing i could thing of was an alignment pin. It kinda looks like a bent up pin from adjustable shelving

Any time I look at forums for people’s builds they all either stroker it and/or bore it out. Assuming the bottom end looks good when I tear this apart, would 350-400HP be reasonable? I get worried about valves clearing the stock pistons. Would I need to balance the crankshaft with all aftermarket pistons?

Hello all! I am building out my lq4 to be a nice daily driver with some power(shooting for around 430-460hp). I just bought a pair of aluminum 243 heads, and know I have to get the decked, but keep seeing things about checking valves and cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports. Is any of that necessary? I’m trying to keep the whole thing relatively budgeted. Are any of these jobs necessary and if so, how much have they ran people who have experience with it? Thank you.

I have daily drove my 2002 silverado 2wd for about 8 years now. I am getting a car for daily driving soon and wanted some advice on building the engine to get more horse power. I'd like to start "simple" as simple gets lol. It's got 260k miles rebuilt 4l60e about 5 to 10k miles engine stock only had to change the knock sensors. I've got a budget of roughly 5k what is a good start to get the ball rolling? (Other than a new engine that'll come later after I milk this one bone dry) For a little background I've done all the work to this truck myself change alot of parts so labor costs won't be included I'll do the labor myself.

Hi there,

To anyone that has done a rebuild for this engine: do you know, if the camshafts bearing caps bolts (it's 28 of them) can be reused? Or, are they TTY? Currently working on it and FSM only mentions torque specs for installation.

These are different to those used in the cylinder head.

Picture below is one I found on the internet, but I've circled one of the bolts in blue. Thanks in advance.

My truck was smasshed 3.28.25 my bed and frame are goners. Please let me know if you can help.

I would like to know about engines. I have Toyota Crown 1995 Body. FRAME 1978. Currently 2JZ GE is installed with auto transmission.its not in the best condition. I am thinking to swap or Rebuild the engine and Transmission. Which engine should i consider. 2LT 2CT 3C 3S 1JZGE 1JZ D4 Any other recommendations? Fuels Averages? For these engines. Any engine can be fits. No major alterations required.

TL/DR: oil in the intake manifold- how did it get there?

If you have my excessive number of posts, you are familiar with my 292 L6 project that runs great except for excessive blue smoke and using oil. I had it machined at a good shop and then assembled by a guy who does a lot of SBC's because I didn't have all the time and tools for that part but I did the install. It's been smoking too much and consuming more than a normal amount of oil. I pulled the head and ended up taking it back to the machinist because I damaged a rocker arm stud while compressing a valve spring. He called me today and said doesn't think the valve seals or guides are the problem but he machined it for positive viton seals. One thing he immidiately noticed while working on it, was a fair bit of motor oil contaminating the intake ports on the head. This reminded me that when I installed it last November and pulled the intake/exhaust manifolds to chase down a manifold gasket leak, I noticed oil litwrally dripping out of the intake manifold. I didn't see anything obvious so I buttoned it up and drove it. The machinist does not think it is oil being forced up past the rings. Compression is actually good and above the manual specs. He thought it may be getting sucked up through the pcv on the valve cover into the carb base and then into the intake. I checked the pcv and the rubber tube and they don't look oil fouled. I am using the stock valve cover with the factory rectangular baffle. So how is raw motor oil getting into the intake manifold? It's a non integrated manifold for those that know the difference.

Any ideas hive mind?

I have an external balanced 383 engine that was balanced with a flex plate but I want to go manual. Could a shop take a flywheel and match the balance for the engine using the flex plate somehow?

Motor has a factory style fuel system and ignition system, motor has a SCAT cast 347 rotating assembly with a trick flow street cam and 1.6 crane cam rockers. I’ve verified power to injectors, proper fuel pressure, firing order, tried two different ecus and a new dist / tfi module. Trying to get it to run steady with the SPOUT (computer controlled ignition)unplugged to set base idle timing. It’ll run with that SPOUT connected, albeit roughly

Does anyone know what this is above the oil filter housing. It is leaking oil out really bad, cannot find it on parts listings.

got a 79 vette L82 350. Unfortunately in auto but planning to swap eventually. For now I’ll just build the engine and keep the auto. I want a pretty hot N.A. build. I’m planning a mutha thumpr cam, longtubes, new heads etc. But having never messed with carbs before I have no idea what i’m doing in the intake area. What carb/manifold do i need? and what heads do you recommend?

I’m in the process of tearing down my ‘94 corvette lt1 because of coolant in the block. I pulled one head and will probably have the other off today.

Backstory, I had these heads decked, cleaned up, new gaskets put on etc a couple of years ago, and they immediately started acting like they were blown again, at which point I feared I must have a crack in the block. I shelved the project until now.

In tearing down the drivers head I noticed some overlap with the gasket, that doesn’t conform to the shape of the head. Can anyone tell me if this was the wrong gasket? I don’t remember what the mechanic said he used but I’m pretty sure they were felpro.

Additionally, I read that on 94 and earlier lt1’s you need to have washers with the head bolts, there was not a single washer on the bolts, and if I were a betting man I would say the same bolts were reused which I’ve come to find out is a big no-no on these blocks.

Please let me know if anyone can give me insight on the state of the heads in this tear down?

The biggest thing I noticed is that the gasket doesn’t even fully cover the exhaust port on pic 3???

Thank you in advance!

Came in for rebuild, condition unknown. Found the oil pump went and took out the rod bearings. Multiple cracks in the block and head. The cylinders were ridge reamed, oversized knurled .60 pistons pistons shoved in haphazardly. The head is trash, the block needs stitched, the cylinders need to go .80 or be sleeved, and the crank re ground.

I’m in the process of tearing down my ‘94 corvette lt1 because of coolant in the block. I pulled one head and will probably have the other off today.

Backstory, I had these heads decked, cleaned up, new gaskets put on etc a couple of years ago, and they immediately started acting like they were blown again, at which point I feared I must have a crack in the block. I shelved the project until now.

In tearing down the drivers head I noticed some overlap with the gasket, that doesn’t conform to the shape of the head. Can anyone tell me if this was the wrong gasket? I don’t remember what the mechanic said he used but I’m pretty sure they were felpro.

Additionally, I read that on 94 and earlier lt1’s you need to have washers with the head bolts, there was not a single washer on the bolts, and if I were a betting man I would say the same bolts were reused which I’ve come to find out is a big no-no on these blocks.

Please let me know if anyone can give me insight on the state of the heads in this tear down?

The biggest thing I noticed is that the gasket doesn’t even fully cover the exhaust port on pic 3???

Thank you in advance!

Does anyone have a cross-reference chart for different brands threadlockers and sealants (ex. ThreeBond, Loctite, Permatex etc.)? I'm scouting internet for one but can't find a decent one based on facts and data not "I used it once and it worked) .

My brother/engine builder has built a 2004 Ford 4.6 with ProMaxx cylinder heads, Cometic MLS head gaskets, and Fel-Pro head bolts.

We haven’t started the engine yet, but pressure testing the coolant system to verify no leaks, we noticed it was leaking between the head gaskets and block surface. We have pulled the heads back off and using a milling parallel, verified both the head and block surfaces are flat under 0.0015 of an inch which they are.

We cleaned the surfaces, new head bolts and followed Fel-Pros torquing sequence and still have an issue with leaks at the head to block surface.

I think we are too close to it now and are dumbfounded as to what to do next. I’m hoping someone can lend some advice as to what to look for, look at, do, etc.