Where I’m at $250 for exterior and interior basic. I think you did a good job, always under promise and over deliver. But if you want to do this professionally you will need to get faster and stop giving your time away, and stop getting hyper focused on things.

I got a one hour ban warning for retaliation killing someone. lol

Typical parts markup at a box store is 2X. So if they buy a rotor for $95 it’s $180 to you. Personally I think that’s too much but it’s getting harder to make a profit with how many lazy ass techs there are and lack of good ones. (Shop Owner).

I have seen a locked up AC compressor prevent a starter from turning the engine over. Once in 25 years lol.

I’ve got a GT350 that melted itself. Complete hand built engine is $22k. None of its cheap anymore.

Countries into bankruptcy

Cam, lifters, push rods, and either delete the dod or replace the dod drive module in the V. All options are expensive.

I did than on a scion FRS, cost me $800 but I told them it needed to look perfect.

I’m at 12k miles on my 18 V4. Valve cover leaked and that’s the only thing that was ever an issue.

I haven’t had any issues in easy, I’ve been playing the level 50+ servers. Seem to be a little better anyways.

You must not work on any imports. They have soft rings, I had a Subaru that got seats cut and valves ground and it only had 130k miles on it. And it drank oil. I also had a Nissan Altima with 120k miles do the same thing. So any import that comes into my shop gets rings, cylinder deglazing and rod bearings when we refurbish the head.

Use a deglazing hone, ball hones are too aggressive. Deglaze, new rings and rod bearings. We do it all the time at my shop on import cars and they never come back and they never use oil. Good ole soft piston rings these days.

Plastigage isn’t accurate, I checked with a bore gage after using plastigage. It was off by .001”. No bueno. Get a good used mitutoyo bore gauge and a ring gage or a decent cheapish set of gage blocks and micrometers. Or have a machine shop check the main and rod clearances. All my race motors I set mains to 2.2-2.5 thousandths. Rods vary widely but 1.8-2.2 thousandths. I use ACL and they have an equation we use for that.

That shaft is bolted into place, I don’t see that being an issue. I could be wrong, but to me if that’s the rocker shaft, run it.

You need a FB, IG page that are linked. Join all the local car communities you can find on FB. Then advertise your services, always focus on quality first. With time your abilities improve and you get good and fast, never get comfortable though. Always be thorough. Attention to detail can set you apart from others. Know your worth, if you are capable charge what the market charges, do this as early as possible. I was always way behind the bar on my hourly rate and I lost millions over the years.

They made the claim it’s a custom built unit, there’s nothing custom about it. They also claimed we can’t return it because we purchased it through the lending company. The one they “work closely with”. Seems like a ponzie scheme to me.

Two fold, it does not do what I bought it for, I told the COO and she said the sales guy had been working there for 3 years and wouldn’t do so. I told her my service advisor is a witness to us being mislead and she seemed to change her attitude a bit. It also showed up inoperable and I have video of the screen buttons not working, which prevents usage entirely.

I asked the salesman directly and he said it would do port and direct injection. Now at this time I know those machines can never be one unit. It’s unfortunate, to put things into perspective I just spent $120k on equipment and this is the only unit I had an issue with. It 100% showed up inoperable, the screen doesn’t work, which prevents you from using the unit entirely. I have these things on video.

No the salesman assured me it would do everything (port and direct injection). So that’s fraudulent misrepresentation. The issue is that it was verbal.

My app is being screwy, sorry for the weird layout.

It’s an injector tester for automotive use. We bought it for port and direct injection and only after talking to their tech, who is not even an employee we find out that it won’t do direct injection and we would have to buy another machine to do those, another $17k. It’s brand new I will have to look over their contracts, which I can’t even find in our emails. The loan company won’t even answer the phone and when I call their direct number it says they’re not open for business.

It came with a glass puzzle? That’s unbelievable! Also that sucks.

Have you replaced the VVT solenoids? They were a super common issue. I also recall the chains in those may stretch.

Those are just wiper seals, if you want a metal clad seal you have to find one that fits the OD of the guide, most of the metal clad seals are meant for a .500” guide OD. The type you have look like an umbrella seal sort of and whenever I use those I only use them on the intake guides and leave the exhaust off, that allows a little oil to stay around the exhaust valve stem.