Not a lot of options that meet your criteria, my young friend. Sounds like you’re already leaning towards a winner.

Found this article you might be interested in: https://www.caranddriver.com/features/g20734564/manual-transmission-cars/

You can tell it’s not a real BMW, otherwise the BMW emblem would be flaking off.

No love for Walter Röhrl?

Beautiful e30, but why is it wearing Borat’s bathing suit?

I’ve considered doing the aero treatment to the underside of my ND. My only concern is my OS Gieken rear differential (and expanded capacity cover) often hit 210° F on the freeway on a warm day, at 75mph. I could go with a diff cooler kit, but with no airflow with the aero kit, I think it would just trap in the heat. Does anyone have any advice?

Miatawetter! (Die gegenteil von Donnerwetter)

Your documentarian / cinematographer captured your hope, joy, anguish, frustration, and disgust perfectly. 😂 Assuming your timing belt didn’t skip a tooth, I would next look at spark.

I’ve seen several write ups on leather wrapping the dash - I say go for it. Not sure why you would paint strip. The chemicals could damage the dash, which could telescope through the leather. If you go this route, test the stripper on the underside of the dash first to make sure it is safe. Keep us posted with your results!

I owned several Audis from this era and they were reliable as long as you did the routine maintenance. I don’t ever remember anyone having problems with the transmissions when I was active on the forums back in the day. It wouldn’t surprise me if you made it to 200k+ miles in this car if you do the routine maintenance. Looks like a good find, I say go for it.

Red, white, blue

Gar so schee, GEL

Yes, daily use and some track experience

I love it! It is ~210 HP and torque, 0-60MPH ~5.0 seconds. It broke a piston rod 6,000 miles after installation, I think this was because my waste gate actuator rod was too short (from BBR). The new engine has forged rods (also from BBR). Next I need to install my improved clutch/flywheel because the factory one with 60k miles slips under peak boost. I’m not sure how well the automatic transmission will stand up to the extra power from forced induction, I have never seen any one who has done a project like that.

I have an ND1 with the BBR Turbo Kit. I assume that you are asking about the noises that a lot of turbo cars make, like the Subaru XRX STi’s signature ‘psht’ noise. This is the blow off valve activating between shifts at high boost. My kit does not make that noise because I have an internally-vented blow off valve, as opposed to the Subaru’s externally- vented blow off valve that vents to atmosphere. I suggest you check out the D4A Boost School YouTube series for more information.

First Lin Manuel Miranda, now this…

My 4k was a 1980 4000S, 2.2l 5 cylinder, 3 speed automatic, Mexico Beige - it was the color of dirt, I think I washed it once in the 5 years I owned it. 250k miles, probably would have kept going forever if my wife hadn’t jump started it backwards and melted all the insulation on the wires behind the fuse box. I wrapped them all in electrical tape, but it was never the same after that. I miss that car.

My dad bought one his senior year of high school, Jamaica Blue. It had 4 wheel drum brakes because he didn’t spend the $50 (?) additional for front disc brakes. He said he had to press the brake pedal pretty hard at red lights waiting for it to turn green because it wanted to GO.

I went with the Cobalt license plate holder from Moss Miata when I first bought my RF in 2017. It puts the plate low on the passenger side, allowing me to use my tow hook for track days.

Wunderschön

I’d hate to follow that vajazzeled Miot on a sunny day…

Full send!

Push the button

I’m guessing our Australian mate is talking about the bump Mazda did to the 1.5 liter (not available in the US) in 2017. The 2.0 didn’t get a bump until 2019. So you are both correct.

Glad you decided to take the plunge