I always do a walk-around on my truck and moreso my dump trailer before leaving with it. I’ve caught minor things before, the bad tail light, tailgate chain hanging or pin missing, usual stuff.

But today, I walked around and noticed this wire looked a little lumpy. I grabbed a few inches below the lump and tried to turn it so I could see it better and BAM! Sparks, smoke and fire. If I had just gotten in my truck and left, it would have caught on fire behind me and I would’ve had no idea until it was too late.

It wasn’t even plugged into to the truck yet. Just the battery for the hydraulic lift was hooked up. So I disconnect it until I can figure out what happened.

As a side note, any advice on troubleshooting this? Assuming the wire wasn’t already damaged, I figure it’s a bad ground somewhere but shouldn’t there be a fuse or something to prevent this from happening?

My balcony surface is damaged, and I need to repair it before moving. However, I’m not sure exactly how to do it. The pattern shown in the picture is damaged and missing in some places. The surface looks like this. I assume the material underneath is concrete. Is this pattern part of the concrete itself, or is it a layer that can be bought and applied separately? I live in Denmark, in case that helps regarding local materials and so on Thanks

Working as a relatively new site supervisor I got to train with the #1 guy at our company and was pleasantly surprised as to how he handled the day to day task of supervising a renovation.

This and a few other things really set a great understanding of what my job truly means.

I’m a remodel contractor, do a little moving of receptacles, switches and lights. This is my wiring box anything I should add. Lineman’s, strippers, couple screw drivers, needle nose, side cutters, spade bits, step bits. Tester. Anything else I should have?

What are these brown ovaly things for?

Hello everyone, im an electrical apprentice in texas and it gets HOT asf here. Im looking for some super durable lightweight breathable workpants to wear at work that with keep me cool (as cool as you can be in texas heat constuction ) any recommendations ive seen truwerks look promising any other recs or personal input? thank you in advance for any input 🤙

I’ve been doing tile over 10 years. I consider myself a pro at it and as good as I can get. My skill set is limited outside of tile, and I’m interested in learning some carpentry. How hard would it be to transition to carpentry work? My only concern is taking the pay cut, no one will pay me tile money as a beginner carpenter. I’m mostly interested in learning this to be able to perform personal home renovations.

2022, Port huron MI. Freshly 21 building seawalls. Was an awesome job.

I legit have like 11 pairs of gloves, I've tried like 7 different pairs with the sole goal of being able to pick up a screw with them on. I beat the shit out of my hands regularly, cuts and scrapes are a plenty, and smacking the back of my hand when demo-ing something definently compounds everytime it happens.

So:

1) I want good, but nothing crazy, cut and impact protection. I know you can't have it all so I need a trade off, but I don't want the typical $3-$15 polyester backed gloves as those aren't going to help when I smack the back of my hand on concrete while ripping a nail out or something

2) touchscreen, and near perfect dexterity. My ultimate wish is to be able ro pick up a brad nail with these gloves on.

I don't want to buy two different gloves cause as soon as you start sweating, any good form fitting glove is very difficult to take off and put back on. Same reason I want touch screen as well.

Bonus I'd someone can give me a rec. On jobsite earbuds with pass through, noise cancel, and actually good audio, so no isotunes.

Thanks to anyone who had some advice! I've spent more time than I am willing to admit trying to find both of these products.

Edit: thanks to all who have answered so far. When thinking about what I wanted and where all other gloves fall short for me is the fact that EVERY single one except those lightweight knit/rubber palm gloves have a seem on every finger tip, making even very good dexterity gloves unusable for fine motor skills. Well, I finally found these.

I'm gonna get a couple pairs I think but there is like 90 to choose from all different cut levels (up to A9) and impact ratings 1 and 2. A lot of them have both. I think I might have hit gold!

Most board & batten exteriors show the window sometimes flush with the exterior trim or proud of it when using casement or fixed windows. In this picture, the casement windows are recessed and the exterior window trim looks so much better than most that I see- what is the proper install or materials used to create this look.

Why the fuck you always show up on Fridays?!?!

We're all trying to have a easy day before the weekend and you show up and get all the forman and GC's all stressed and bitchy.

Show up on Wednesdays instead. Nothing good is happening Wednesday anyway.

There is a construction company called TMG in VA, that is NOT the company I am talking about. I am speaking of a management company TMGUSA.co is their website and I think they are a kind of property management company that just hires out subs to maintain other properties.

Anyone ever heard of them or worked for them? We are having a lot of trouble getting paid by them or even getting them to respond to us at this point. I am not completely convinced that they are not just a scam company. I don't know what else to do and I'm just wondering if anyone else here has ever dealt with them.

So I'm building my dream woodworking shop. I used ZIP for both walls and roof. Used the stuff on walls before on jobsites(Commercial Union Carpenter) but not for roofs. Really don't do a ton of residential apartments or housing. Huber doesn't seem to call out for any anything under the shingles on a 4/12 unless it is specified by local code.

Whats the general consensus and best practice. Follow manufacturer spec, 1 row of Ice and Water to get above soffits or cover the entire ZIP roof with I&W and/or Tar Paper? I won't use synthetic underlayment, every job I've used it on leaks like a sieve until shingled.

Is papering over ZIP the belt and suspenders approach and a waste of time and money. Or is it worth it in the long run.

Anyone had ZIP without underlayment leak? Roof has been sheeted now since December with no leaks.

Edit: If it makes a difference the building is 23x35-5(literally as large as I am allowed in the city) 9 1/2 foot ceiling, 4/12 pitch hip roof.