Not sure if anyone here has noticed this error before but I thought it was funny when I came across it

Is this press worth $75 or should I look elsewhere? Wanting to get into reloading with .223, 7 rem mag and 6.5 creedmoor. Not sure of what I would need to start any advice would be great. Found the rcbs at my local shop and don't really know what I'm looking at. All the parts move but it would need some rust removal. Thanks from a first time poster

Found it in my grandfathers garage

…to have four Classic Loaders instead of just getting a press, but I had my reasons.

6mm dasher. zermatt action, criterion barrel, n150 powder, alpha brass. serious question though. never saw any this low.

Broke my decapping pin on my rcbs small die for the 223/556. On the rcbs website the have small, headed, and xtra-small headed .57 pins. My question is which one do I get. Im guessing headed bc doesn’t make sense to have extra small head if primers are small primers ? And im worried if I get small they’ll be pins without the head.

and instead of loading 40.8 gr powder, I loaded 48 gr - I have factory crimped so I cannot reuse any of them. Luckily I only loaded 35.

Starting crimping ar10 aero 6.5cr using a Lee factory crimp die as the bullets coal was growing under recoil. I set up the die until it barely touched the case and then did 2 1/4 turn increments more . I didn't hit 24x24 paper I was shooting at. Non crimped bullet grouped well. How can I miss buy that much?

I designed these custom die organization stands for my reloading desk. The shell holder for each die set fits into a custom holder I made for the front of each stand. I also made my own lock nuts for each die with text that tells me what each die is for. Everything was printed on my Bambu X1C 3D printer. Now my dies are nicely organized.

3D Printer model available here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1298438-reloading-die-stand#profileId-1330323

Saw this bucket at the goodwill today and had a moment of neural harmony. For those of you who struggle with separating your brass from stainless pins after tumbling it, this works awesome! It's a turtle wax 3 gallon bucket with a "grit-guard" in the bottom. I saw it and instantly thought, that looks like a great way to rinse and "de-pin" your brass after wet tumbling it.

It works so well! Pins fall through the grit guard and the brass stays up top. And because it's a bucket, I just take it over to the sink and use the sprayer to wash the brass down.

wanting to get into reloading, I found the Lee Load All and at 70$ I thought It was a good start.

Reading a ton of reviews, the Mec jr seems to be a better move. But at almost 300$ it doesnt seem super worth it. It starts out pricing buying factory ammo.

Any recommendations? Anyone love their Lee? I duck/dove/rabbit hunt with shot gun.

Sportsman does have the mec jr for 200 on sale, but they are currently sold out.

I’m currently toying with the idea of getting my 06 and making ammo on the weekend. I’d be selling to ranges for their LTC classes. I’m talking between 3k-20k rounds a month. How much should I be expecting to pay in PLI? And who should I go through? Thank you for your time

I am getting ready to load up some 426 grain lead cast bullets with FFg black powder for a Springfield Trapdoor and I think I have everything figured out except for the crimp. I have never loaded anything other than 450 Bushmaster that required a crimp and was given a spec of .002-.003" crimp for those. The book I am using for the trapdoor loads says to use a stout crimp to get proper powder burn. Can someone quantify a stout crimp?

This is a supplemental post in response to my last one. https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/s/m8y1WEJcLh

I got on the phone with RCBS and it was a very surprising conversation:

We talked about how to set it up and he confirmed I was doing it correctly. Then I told him my SB 223 die was not clearing a headspace gauge.

He said “sir we don’t make our dies to clear a headspace gauge. Headspace gauges measure Sami spec, we don’t make our dies to size the brass to Sami spec”

This was super puzzling to me. I asked why not. His reply was “we make headspace gauges but we don’t even use them when considering how our dies perform. I can’t tell you why we don’t size to Sami spec but it just doesn’t matter to us”

I said “well it makes me hesitant to load up a bunch of rounds if the brass won’t even clear a simple headspace gauge” he said “you’ve got the best gauge right in front of you, check it in the rifle” I said “isn’t it a little difficult to check if the bolt is all the way forward in a semi-auto rifle? If it were a bolt action you could check headspace by the force needed to close it” his response was “well if you put the brass in, let the bcg all the way in, then pull the charging handle, if the brass ejects then it clears headspace” I said “not necessarily, the ejector could catch the rim without the bolt going all the way into battery right?”

To which he said “yeah you make a good point there. If you send in the die we can adjust it for you”

I’m just kinda baffled at all of this. Im someone who wants concrete confidence in the things I do, especially with loading. I would expect a sizing die to clear a simple headspace gauge, if it didn’t, why would I have confidence to use it?

Also, isn’t the point of a small base die to load to the smallest spec in order to have maximum reliability? It should not only clear headspace but exceed it. I’ve seen numerous videos of guys comparing headspace gauges with regular dies vs SB dies and the SB should sit at or below the small groove in the gauge.

I ordered one of the Inline rails along with some other stuff from Inline Fabrication because I wanted to try and get something set up to mount the docks for their QC plates.

It turns out that the makeshift wall in my basement I was going to mount it to isn't in spec. The studs are ~10" apart. I'm generally not a DIY guy, mounting presses to the benches is about as handy as I get. So I'm hoping you guys might have some ideas or advice on what the best way for me to get this thing mounted might be. I would like to mount it to the opposite side of the drywall seen in the pic.

I considered getting some smaller pieces of wood and nailing/screwing them into the studs to effectively make them wider and give me something to drive the mounting screws into. But I don't know if that's a good idea as I'm going to be hanging some heavy stuff on this rail. I also thought about just screwing a 2x4 into the existing studs on top of the drywall, but that would be pretty ugly.

I have an older frame xl650, and would like to install an index bearing cam block. Problem is, none of the upgrades fit the older frame xl650s, because they lack the “step” that the upgrades mount to (circled above). Does anyone know of a workaround or option made for the older frames?

Thanks :)

Asking this here because it’s fundamentally a seating depth/jump question.

I had a barrel cut by a gunsmith that has previously done fantastic work for me. They do top notch work and I’m not concluding they did anything wrong. I’m not even sure there is a problem here.

When I sent them my blank, I also sent a dummy cartridge set to the max magazine length available. In my email, and in the packaging, I identified it as max magazine length with the bullet I use for this cartridge (200g LRX). The max mag length is also just about as shallow as I could securely seat that bullet.

Now that the barrel is back, the throat is cut .228” longer than my max mag length.

Am I missing something? If I used the standard guidance of a .050 jump for the LRX, that would only be 3.09” to the lands.

Am I right to think that’s way too long? Did I screw up in not communicating what I want clearly?

Just looking for a sanity check before I call the smith.

I've only been loading for 2.5 - 3 years and I've shot my 1st squib. I've reloaded thousands of rounds and this fuckup has got into my head. It's the 1st but now I have second thoughts about the other reloads. All the what ifs. What if my son or his friends or wife or daughter had been shooting instead of me. I don't know how common it is among reloaders, but I have seen quite a few post of others. Did it take awhile to get over it or do you really get over it?

Hey yall,

So i have a gewehr 88/05 with a bore diameter of .314. I'm basically trying to figure out how to size the inside diameter of my 8mm mauser cases from .323 to .312. It's something I've never had to do before in reloading, and I'm stumped on how to make it happen

Thanks yall

My grandfather owns a rifle chambered in .222 Remington magnum and we want to reload ammunition for it, we’ve got the dies but no press yet. Should we use .223 bullets to reload it? Would it need to be resized?

I’ve tried putting it at the shell plate, 1/8 turn past, 1/4 turn past, 3/8 past and even 1/2 past with a ton of cam over just to see if it would work. Nothing is.

Brand new xl750. I checked and adjusted the shell plate indexing adjustment to make sure the brass was entering the die straight.

I set the shell plate nut on the 750 all the way down and then backed it off a hair so that there is a tiny bit of freedom in it

What else can I try?

https://youtube.com/shorts/-XaYK0nWIyE?si=HmOLmlHK-7kcc7bf

Having issues at checkout when I submit order. Getting an endless wheel and nothing happens. Anyone else??

This was my first time shooting a 45-70! I had, what I understand, as tame loads (48 grains of IMR 3031 with 350 grain bullets) and the description I'd read about the recoil was spot-on. More of a strong push than a sharp punch.

I may try to up the loads a bit more for my next time out. (Possibly 49-50 grains) Although I'm using berry's plated bullets, and I know their projectiles shouldn't be pushed into jacketed load levels.

I've loaded for 45 Colt before, and this was an entirely different beast.

Hallo Reloaders.

I need to load for an unfamiliar rifle, loading my 6.5, .223, .308, .22 hornet, and other is like second nature already, but bigger calibers I have very little experience with. It is a K98 magnum action, unknow barrel, unknown twist. My question is, do I load factory data as per powder instructions, or do I do a load test and shoot whatever pans out to be the best fit for the rifle? I currently have 225gr Hornady Interlock on hand to load into Hornady brass. Any advise will be appreciated so I don't blow my eye socket out. It will be unsuppressed for now.

My dad does a lot of reloading, and his birthday is coming up. Got him 500 30 cal bullets (he has the brass for it), and would like to get some gunpowder as well. I don’t wanna get ripped off purchasing, and am looking to see what’s considered a good price for gunpowder. TIA

Edit: thanks everyone for the help, got what I needed, much appreciated