Hi all, so my Beko WME8227W has been spontaneously throwing up different error codes for a while now, skipping washes and often washing for much more or much less time than it’s supposed to, skipping or adding parts to the cycle.

It seems to be an obvious issue with the control board.

I’m not sure of the exact name of the part i need to try to fix it, is it the ‘Main Display PCB Module’?

Thanks for reading!

Model: WED5600XW1

Was working fine. Put a load in, tried to start it, and heard a loud clang. Now when I try to start it I get nothing. I also left it on normal heat for about 15 minutes and felt no heat inside the drum.

Where should I begin troubleshooting?

Running into issues as I can't find a video of my exact model. Most videos show that I can unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Once I got the ignitor off, there is no plug. Do I have to take the back off to get to the plug or do I have to splice the new one in?

Long shot because this is a 15-year-old washer but it's worked flawlessly until now — model # WFW9250WW00.

I'd love to repair it if it is repairable, since it's 36" tall and we have a built-in counter that of course will not accommodate any new washer, and again, it's been utterly flawless for so long.

We ran a load this morning, and then went to run a second load and it was completely dead. No lights, no control panel, no error message.

We checked the breaker panel, all good, pulled it out and used an outlet tester on the outlet. It is getting power from the wall. We've left it off and unplugged for a bit before plugging it back in, nada. I can't find the service or repair manual anywhere online but I tried to enter diagnostics mode as described in several videos (on newer models) — pressing any 3 buttons 3 times in quick succession — but it did nothing.

It's never acted in the least bit squirrelly and made no noises. Never got jammed or threw any errors.

Is there anything we can check that is within reason?

A fuse or something?

We don't know appliance repair but my husband repairs old computers which involves soldering etc. But not all parts are even available for this unit. If it's gonna be a $300+ control unit plus lots of labor then it's not worth it but considering we have to rip out our folding area to replace it…

Hi - just moved into a new house and having trouble with the LG oven. Will heat but usually stalls out at ~ 370 degrees. Bottom and top coil both read 120 volts, and 17 and 14 ohms, respectively. I've changed the thermostat already and that didn't help. The problem is also somewhat intermittent (oven works perfectly maybe 1 out of 5 tries). Any thoughts?

Bradford White RG1PV40S6N - I had a power outage throughout these bad storms and now my hot water tank does not light itself, I cannot find no reset button it’s flashing 7 times, 3 sec pause and repeat. Any help?? It’s the electric one.

Anyone have any idea what this part might be? It was found in the bottom of a 5 year old Bosch dishwasher. It doesn’t appear to belong to anything washed in the dishwasher.

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/YBeTPIa

Had installed a new OEM heating coil a couple months ago. Stopped heating and found this wire detached. Thinking its safe to redo the connection. What do you think? https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fbAs0kLQkJWFwie4VzyAx3yQ

My under counter fridge / freezer stopped cooling yesterday.

I unplugged the appliance and electrics are fine, the compressor is continuously working / making a sound that doesn't click, the thermostat appears to work as does the light when turning the dial up and down, there's no signs of frost or water, the drainage hole is clean, there's no fan, the coils are clean, the doors shut properly so no air is escaping or getting in and there's enough space behind and by the sides of the appliance. I've had the fridge for nearly two years now and never had any issues.

Does anyone know what the cause may be? I have someone coming out next week but it would be good to have a few options to provide them with so they don't spend ages troubleshooting or to see if it's even worth having someone come out as I may just buy a new appliance if so.

Thanks!

Model MVWB835DW4

Inherited washer from aunt who bought a new house with this appliance but had a brand new washer/dryer she installed instead. I don’t have any idea how old it is but it is a top loader.

I’m going to give you a timeline of problems and what I’ve done in as best order as possible.

-LF code began to come in in certain types of cycles like Bedding then Deep Water Wash. Now it’s spread to all cycles like Normal and Rinse/Spin. - I distribute items evenly within the tank and do NOT overfill - Checked water pressure (all fine) - I can’t check the filter in this model from anything I’ve seen. - Agitates fine - Drains fine - The lid lock seems fine and tested fine - Tried service mode - FO E3 error code - codes 000, 001, 002, 005, 008 all fine - I have NOT used one of those gauges - With all cycles the estimated time sets to 51 minutes (for example) then it changes to 1 hour and 36 minutes after it fills up. It agitates, then the LF code comes out and it drains out - I am about to replace the washer water inlet valve, but I have to order the part first

My question is…before I do that, is there anything else I can try that someone can suggest? Any help is much appreciated.

Thank you.

Took apart the machine and had my screws laid out on the work bench.

My sister came along and threw the screws in with my large collection of spare hardware.

Help a brother out. Looking for the screws for the…

Door lock Front panel Top panel.

Thanks.

Came off our Frigidaire Gallery Dishwasher

https://imgur.com/a/FdrPjlU

easy fix? Can we still use our dishwasher?

Hello, all.

I was changing my GE Gas Range (#JGBS66REKSS) from natural gas to propane.

I changed out all of the cooktop orifices without any problem, except one. I over torqued it and ended up cracking the orifice holder (as can be seen by the hairline crack in the picture).

Is it necessary to change out the holder, and if so, what’s the best place to find one?

https://imgur.com/a/hzxgp5k

Noticing this sound sporadically when the dishwasher is running, particularly on start up and when it's draining at the end of a cycle, but it's not persistent. Nothing stuck on the bottom that I can see, and the wash arms are spinning freely. I'm assuming this is a bearing in a motor or something, but figured I'd ask here for ideas before calling someone out.

Video for reference: https://imgur.com/a/NvloaYL

Currently have a Maytag MDB8969SDM0 that is continuously running (i.e. all night one day this week) and noticed that the countdown timer was getting stuck at certain increments (did not matter if it was Auto or Quick mode). Diagnostic steps so far:

• Cleaned the filter all out and appeared nothing was clogged etc.
• Ran a diagnostic test (1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 any of the buttons). It's throwing F6E4, F5E1, and F6E6 error codes. Looked them up and then read that sometimes the codes can send you a wild goose chase.
• I popped open the whole door to take a look at the control board and sure enough I have some fried connectors, wiring, and where this 4-pin (molex?) connector goes on the board is burnt too: https://imgur.com/a/FsWxDeO
• Note, the last picture with (2) blue wires into the connector is also brittle and started to fall apart so I might need to repair this too

Looking at the spec sheet this appears to control the thermostat + heating element. I'm wondering if the control board was thinking the water wasn't at the right temperature and then forcing it maintain/hold itself in one of the stages which led to continuous runtime?

I'll have to replace the control board, re strip these wires, new metal clamps, and a new 4-pin female molex harness(?).
My question is, what are the metal clamps that the 16-gauge wires are going into and what is the name the 4-pin white molex harness connector component? Does anyone know what the names are so I can order new ones? Do I need a special crimping tool to get the new wires back onto these metal clamps?

I'm fairly confident I can make the repair just not sure it's worth my time.

TIA!

I'm trying to understand my icemaker ( D7824706Q) and hope someone can help me trouble shoot. I replaced this around 4 months ago and it worked well for a couple of months. https://www.reliableparts.ca/product/Ice-Maker-D7824706Q

Now it doesn't work for around 3 weeks, then all of the sudden starts to work.

1. Any ideas?
2. Is the gear supposed to always be turning, or only when it reaches a certain temperature to get the cycle rolling.
3. I've been toying around with the lever a lot as that would be the obvious place to look, but it looks like it isn't the problem. On the external side of the lever, (part visible from door.) I can see that it is engaging the switch properly.

Thank you,

Frigidaire Model FFCD2413US3A

Problem: Detergent not fully dissolving (always residue left in the corner closest to the door, under where the detergent compartment is), dishes barely/not being cleaned. Water is always present down in the sump area. Not sure if this by design or indicates some other problem

Have already tried: -running tap to hot before starting cycle -ensuring nothing is blocking the detergent compartment door, so I know it is being released.

Not sure what part needs replacing or if it makes sense to just get a new one; dishwasher is 5 years old

Picture in comments. Condenser runs, control panels work on both sides of the fridge, thermostats read the correct temperature.

It looks like one of the condenser coolant lines is blocked. Looking for advice before I start attempting to re-solder. Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/wxBzcv6

Fridge door hinge bracket is pulling away from the fridge body. The upper bolt can't be tightened anymore - it spins freely and I assume the threads on the fridge body are stripped.

This door has had issues closing since I got this apartment a year ago. I stuck a little chunk of pex pipe under the fridge side hinge to prop it up which worked for a while but it's not cutting it anymore. The door has to be lifted above the sill to form a proper seal.

Any advice? Thank you in advance!

GE dishwasher - GDF410SSF0SS

There was a leak in front of the dish washer I suspect is the Rubber sump gasket, but getting it to sit in the place its expected to be placed seems rather difficult. I pulled it out to wipe the area clean, but getting it back on has me stumped.

The item in question is shown on this link. 309

Gasket link

https://imgur.com/a/7M05Spa

Different dishwasher, but looks identical to this.

https://youtu.be/7mojQPHpXAY?feature=shared

KitchenAid Dishwasher Making Grinding Noise After Dispenser Replacement
Model: KitchenAid KDTE334GPS0 Hey all, I’m hoping some DIY appliance folks might have some insight on a weird issue I’m having with my KitchenAid dishwasher. The Problem I recently replaced the detergent dispenser in my KitchenAid KDTE334GPS0 dishwasher (used this replacement part https://a.co/d/6iRl0M8). The old dispenser door wasn’t shutting properly anymore so it needed to be replaced. The installation went smoothly - removed the door lock, disconnected the cables, took out the old dispenser, installed the new one, reconnected everything, heard the satisfying “click” when putting in the new dispenser. But now when I run the dishwasher, it makes this loud humming/grinding noise that lasts for less than a minute. The noise only happens at specific times - when the soap is being dispensed and again when the rinse aid (Jet Dry) is released. Then it goes back to running normally. This noise was NEVER present with the old dispenser. What I’ve Checked: • All cables are properly connected • Nothing is loose or rattling • The dispenser “clicks” as it should when closing • The dishwasher is cleaning fine otherwise Questions:

1. Is this just a “break-in” period for the new dispenser?
   1. Could there be something misaligned with the installation?
   2. Is the replacement part potentially incompatible in some way with my model?
   3. Should I just ignore it since it only happens briefly during the cycle?

Any advice is appreciated before I tear into this thing again. I’d prefer not to call a repair tech just for this if it’s something simple I’m missing. Thanks in advance! Video of issue https://photos.app.goo.gl/NcEdZzhXhkPnuKq67

Hey guys,

I have a Samsung Gas Oven. Model NX60A6511SS

I replaced the touch pad, and I keep getting code C-F2.

I think there is an issue with this green thing.

It’s the green square in this link:

https://encompass.com/item/12680074/Samsung/DG94-04041B/

My question is what is that component called and does anyone know where I can find it?

So our power went out and flickered on a week ago. Had some weird issues with electronics after that but other than the washer nothing was completely dead.

Seemed like the solenoids may have gone out based on my trouble shooting so I replaced them and the valves. Still didn’t work. Figured out how to run a diagnostic cycle and at t4 water wasn’t being released so according to the internet and ChatGPT the board was likely fried. Pulled it off and some of the connections looked bad below the epoxy coating.

Replaced the board. Now I’m getting a te error which is supposed to be the thermistor.

We can’t go another couple weeks without a washer and my question is… are all the electronics fried? Feels like I’ll just be replacing one sensor after another at this point especially if the board allowed a power surge into the rest of the circuits. I’m only about $75 in on parts and $50 in laundromat cost lol. Not sure if we’re at the point of just looking at a new one. Any advice?

Hi there!

I have an older Frigidaire upright freezer that has begun forming ice at the bottom, which eventually leaks out as water through the door. You can defrost the freezer and then run it and it will work fine for a few weeks before the ice builds up again. The motor does cycle normally - ie. it doesn't just run forever, it shuts off from time to time as it's supposed to.

I have observed that there are tears in the door seal (closer to the door itself), which I suspect are possibly the cause. There is a replacement seal available, but it is priced at nearly $200USD, so if I get this wrong I've lost a substantial down payment on a new freezer.

Apart from blocked drain plug (doesn't seem to be issue in my case), is there anything else that could be causing this?