I made a previous post asking for feedback on hiring someone to do my floors. After much discussion, I decided to not go with this person. One person in the comments in particular named jointybointy pointed out the flaws of the work. So I sarcastically asked if he would come to Michigan to complete my floors. Long story short, he came all the way from Alabama and did an amazing job on my floors! Never thought I’d take the risk and hire someone off Reddit, but damn it worked out. He put in LVP flooring and for the prep he used underlayment, along with cementing two of the bedrooms that had toxic glue attached. Pictures attached! Thanks again, jointybointy!

We’ve been working at this for several days, we used floor stripper than a floor sander. I haven’t been through all the grits yet just 40. If I were to start going through the grits now will this floors take a dark walnut stain (dark brown) well? We’re not looking for perfection but we do want it to look good. Thank you were at our wits end with prep work lol

I bought a bunch of LVP last year. We messed up the floors while installing and are replacing with a different floor. The only problem is I still have about 15-20 boxes of the first floor, and it’s way past the return window. I was planning to keep it in the garage (Texas), and am wondering if that would damage the flooring at all? Especially with how hot it gets here in summer. I’m assuming not, but figured better safe than sorry!

I decided to remove the vinyl flooring and tiling from this spare room as it was in terrible shape. My aim has been to lay down some click and lock laminate flooring.

It was advised to put some self levelling compound down but there’s a patch of slightly raised concrete towards the door that i don’t really know what to do with.

The floor has to be as even as possible for the tiling to work naturally so I was trying to figure out a way to sort of buffer it down or maybe remove it completely but slightly worried about the pipes.

Any recommendations based on the pics? Any help much appreciated

My husband and I are trying to find additional flooring for our home. Can anyone help identify what this is???

Please go easy on me, but I have a question about some Costco LVP that I removed from my house. Most of the tabs broke upon removal but the flooring surface is still in good shape. I want to reinstall in a cottage. It has a nice flat plywood subfloor. My first thought was to use some flooring adhesive as it won't click together like it should.

Any thoughts on this? Obviously the idea is to save money. I wouldn't be doing the flooring in this place otherwise as it's not in the budget. Just want to make it work.

I’m going to be redoing my entire downstairs (except the powder room) with the same flooring. I’m aiming to have the flooring continuous (no transitions or direction changes). What’s your recommendation on the direction I should lay the LVP flooring (60”x7 1/8”)? Parallel with the living room/dining room wall?

One of the floor planks in my condo keeps shifting whenever we step on it. The whole flooring is around 10yrs old. Is this something I can fix myself or do I need to call in a pro?

Hello!! We moved into a home ab 2 years ago! We have a male and a female doberman! We got the female after moving in! They're both fine with potty training now. But my house has been smelling awful the past few days, all I can smell is urine. I've tried multiple things in my carpet shampooer.... I know the only real solution is replacing the carpet and padding, but until money is right, what can I do? I've tried several pet urine products, vinegar, and other carpet cleaners. I currently have woolite foam on the area to try it. It's mainly one section in my living room!

Hi my carpet is coming undone and fraying under the door grip strip from where it was cut slightly to short and the cats running from room to room. I would like to know if I can put some adhesive spray under the carpet then put a door cover strip over the top of the pre existing carpet strip if that is something that’s possible how would I go about doing that

Edit: I mean luxury vinyl flooring

We have two offices/playrooms in a semi-finished attic.

Although we use window AC units, we don’t have them running round the clock. It gets quite hot up there, as you might imagine. Room temps regularly get into the 80s without AC between July-Sept.

We are on a budget and are considering putting in vinyl flooring. Probably one of the big box brands. Will be professionally installed.

Do you think that the high room temperatures will be an issue with the flooring?

Had to peel up this plywood underlayment under the layers of vinyl and linoleum because I’m planning to lay tile. Took me about 6 hours to peel off like 50 sqft because of the literal hundreds of nails. Is this normal? Or was someone just an a**hole?

Hello! We're getting slammed with rain in the Midwest the past few days. I went into my basement, which features a section of old wood parquet flooring (the rest is slate flooring). See pics.

On the wood parquet section, it appears that a portion that's far-removed from the wall is sucking up some moisture but I'm at a loss for how it's doing that considering how far it is from the wall, where I would assume the moisture is at its "highest level" per se. So how's the floor getting moisture?

I would also add that this section of individual parquet wood planks were loose, meaning that the underlying adhesive was basically completely eroded, likely 50-year-old floor (so you could literally pick up individual wood pieces but everything fit very snuggly; now it's not so snug because it has expanded). The wood closer to the wall features more glue adhesion underneath so that makes me think that's why that part hasn't popped up - but I would assume that that part of floor has moisture in it too, right?

Welcome the any thoughts/insights on what may be going on! And how to fix it? Thank you in advance!

Hey all,

I’ve recently had 20mm outdoor porcelain slabs laid on a proper full mortar bed with slurry primer on the back of each tile. There’s a consistent 1:100 fall and proper drainage channels at the lower end of the patio. I’ve used the builders before (for the raised beds) and was happy with their work. The tiles look good, nice and level and consistent gaps (a screw cap levelling system was used).

Most of the slabs feel solid underfoot and don’t move, but when tapped with a wooden tool handle, quite a few have small areas — often just a corner or edge — that sound hollow (marked with chalk). I assume this is due to minor shrinkage in the mortar bed as it cured?

I’m planning to use either BAL Terrace Grout or Flowpoint to finish the job, both of which are designed for external use and should seal things well.

A couple of slabs are clearly worse than the others (slight movement), and I’ll ask my builder to lift and relay those. But for the rest, do they need to come up or would you leave them be? Or is it worth trying something like Fix-A-Floor — or is that just a waste of time on external porcelain?

Any advice from pros or anyone who’s had a similar experience would be hugely appreciated!

Pics attached.

Thanks 🙏

I have a home from the early 1900s. When I bought the place the air quality in the basement was absolutely atrocious. I started by spray painting the ceiling with black dryfall paint with M1 added in. Then I used drylok extreme on all the walls.

Wanted to share my experience with an old basement floor though. There was about an inch of dust, oil, and grime just everywhere. I gagged coming down here sometimes. Even after the ceiling and walls it still smelled bad so I knew I had to do the floor. I have to concrete under the furnace in the future and cost was somewhat of a concern so I wanted something cheap, durable, and that I could touch up later. I also have no sump in my basement so I needed something resistant to hydrostatic pressure.

After intense cleaning for 2 weeks, using TSP four times, scrubbing oil, and acid etching twice I was ready.

I patched the floors with concrete in several areas and caulked the cove joints. I used drylok caulk and honestly wouldn’t recommend it, get a high quality masonry caulk instead. I then put two coats down of drylok floor and wall. I really liked this stuff. Had a nice shine and the smell from the floor immediately went away. after that was the first coat of E1. I waited 24 hours and did the second coat with rustoleum floor chips. After another 24 hours I sealed it with drylok wetlook.

Overall, I think it turned out really nice for how jacked up the floor was. Self leveling concrete would have been too expensive for me right now and I’m not exactly that confident in my concrete skills. It seems really durable, smells clean, and has a great finish. I attached some pictures of the before, with only the floor and wall, and then the finished product

One contractor told me it isn’t worth trying to save this hardwood, and that it would require more work compared to ripping it out and starting new.

Thoughts?

Hi all

Wife and I bought a house last year and basement has epoxy floor. We put carpet in the main area and left the laundry room and utility room as the epoxy floor. Problem is the specs keep coming off and we track them all over the carpet. We don’t hang out down here too much but just from going in and out of both rooms the carpet area gets covered in specs. Is there a top coat/sealant that was supposed to be applied to prevent this?

My builder has only one choice I could choose and it is Toryls Everwood Designer

Here are the specifications of the LVP:

8.3mm (thickness) x 180mm (width) x 1830mm (length)

0.5mm (20mil) wear layer Micro-bevelled edges 100% phthalate free CorkPlus™ BLUE with Microban® antimicrobial product protection

https://residential.torlys.com/collections/everwood-evertile/everwood-designer/

Can you guys help me if this is good stuff? Thankss

We closed on a new apartment on Thursday, two days after a radiator valve popped in the vacant unit and destroyed the parquet floors in a bedroom.

We worked out the cost and credit at the closing table but before I spend the money does this make sense:

Remove old parquet and molding 1/4" self leveler (old asbestos tile below current floor) Oak prefinished hardwood glued to new subfloor (gluing directly to the concrete?)

Company quoted ~9k for the 200 sqft room. They're an experienced company who's been doing excellent work in the building for years. vHCOL area

Thanks!

I laid the adhesive vinyl myself with my father about 1 year ago, does anyone have any idea why it is coming loose/curling in some places? We have now planned to heat up the tiles that have come loose with a hot air gun and stick them back down with new adhesive. What do you think of this idea, or does anyone have a better suggestion?

Hello!

I am about to do a bathroom remodel in my condo and while everything else involved in the project is within my skill wheelhouse-I am unsure of how to best approach tiling the floor outside the shower. The subfloor is Gypcrete and I'm not sure the best practices for tiling this type of subfloor. I know I'll need a waterproofing layer, as well as some sort of anti-fracture/decoupling membrane to prevent any cracks in the Gypcrete from transferring over to the tile.

Am I correct in assuming I'd apply a waterproofing membrane first, then a decoupling membrane onto that with a layer of thin-set sandwiched in-between to hold the decoupling membrane in place?

I'm a wood butcher not a floor guy so any advice/input is appreciated. Have done tile backsplashes and other minor tile work just nothing on this level/with this sort of backing material.

Educate me.

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Flooring/comments/1jrp1pc/comment/mlm2i4e/?context=3

Thanks to everyone who commented on the last post, made me realize I was working with asbestos tile and gave pointers on dealing with it. Most likely, I will put new plank directly over top of it (but I am leaning toward putting a vapor barrier down just to keep an extra layer between myself and the asbestos).

FIRST PICTURE: the damaged tile in the door threshold. This is the only damaged tile. Advise was to warm with a heat gun and glue down. Hoping to do that, really don't want to remove it. Otherwise tile is in good condition.

SECOND PICTURE: hallway outside room, looks like the asbestos tile continues into the rest of house. Furthermore, the carpet here is GLUED to the tile with a crusty yellow glue, and there are carpet tacks along the edge. I'm worried the asbestos tile will be extra damaged here, and I made need to put a sealer down or remove it completely.

LAST PICTURE: visible gap after removing wall trim. You can see the black tar poking out of the edge. I thought it was an old vapor barrier but now I think it's the (also toxic) glue that holds the tiles down. Do I need to put anything in these corners to abate that? Or run a vapor barrier a few inches up behind the trim?

Any more tips would be greatly appreciated. Hoping to not have to remove any tile, but I want to do things safe and responsibly so the next owner of this sh*t hole won't have to deal with any of this.

Laminate on living room, dining room, stairs and hall. Porcelain tiles on kitchen/utility. Carpet on bedrooms.

In a comment someone in here I asked about replacing subfloor or using polyurethane or kilz due to dog urine on the carpet and padding. I'm not sure now if the floor needs anything done. I was surprised to see it in this good of condition. The only part I think needs something is near the white air purifier. Would appreciate a pro's feedback. Thanks!