-1
We've also spotted something large and metalic hovering in the sky last night at dusk and it disappeared very fast. I also was thinking something along the lines of a satellite at first
Edit: Could the people who downvote inform me what they think what I'm describing is then?
1
2k/year? Cries in S85
1
Ah yes, when C E stands for China export
1
Their rebuilt slave cylinder also failed immediately on mine and I got my money back. I did continu to use their Sachs clutch set though and also their refilled pressure accumulator. All the other stuff like the motor kit I've bought OEM.
1
That's normal. All those cars have their age and often quite some miles. DM me if you want to know some stuff about the M21
-1
None of the 2, very sorry my dude
7
?? Eg discoloration could be a good indicator of something getting too hot.
7
Yes? I don't think that's unreasonable
2
I don't even have a tap handle in my toolbox, I always use a cordless drill and often with a no-slip holder in the drill unless it's like M4 or smaller. Even in stainless, all day. It's a matter of experience and knowing your machine.
1
My Euro model also doesn't let me
1
Found a similar hoist chain also for like 1 or 2 tons when the electric hoist started to bind. That one was actually "checked" every 3 months. Afaik inspectors and their firms aren't liable where I'm from. They should be.
1
This one is for sorting potatoes by size
1
The UCP/UKP model you mean? Because there's nothing excentric to the bearings itself, the shafts are made excentric.
I can get them through any mainstream way but I'm in the EU so probably little use to you. The big ones tend to be on order each time and the smaller ones often are in stock. I should have the big one by Tuesday from NTN. FAG was also possible. SKF also and they are good but way overpriced
1
Chinese bearing in SKF housing
1
When everything is fine-ish I dont mind, but now I felt a bit uneasy indeed
3
Not that bad all things considered. I think most of them are nearing a decade or more of winter months use. And when they fail, the cast housings usually wear out, never had a bearing itself blow out afaik.
6
The frame of this thing has been reinforced on many places and is actually holding up quite allright now. But when bearings start to let go, the knock and vibration is crazy.
1
If anything sweep, vacuum and blow off but no water, that would make a gigantic mess. And it also wouldn't last long, the amounts of dust produced are unholy.
r/IndustrialMaintenance • u/flashe30 • 23d ago
Customer called saying that a bearing broke in half on his sorting machine. Went and got the bearing to do a late night intervention, only to find out during testing that the other 2 on the shaft are also shot. The broken one just takes the grunt of the upwards force. Very curious who'll have a UCP 218 in stock with a bearing with adapter sleeve...
r/forkliftmechanics • u/flashe30 • 27d ago
The Cat forklift I'm doing some work on has a Powershift transmission with an inching pedal. (Like most? Idk). So when pushing the pedal it goes to neutral(?) first with a cable to a valve and at the second part of the pedal stroke it also engages the master cylinder and thus the brakes.
I was looking at the mechanism and started wondering. I did adjust the push rod slack to the master cylinder just like the manual states. But that also means that it starts to brake sooner. I was listening to the inching valve with my foot on the pedal in a way the forklift stopped moving, as lightly as possible as an operator would do, and I still could hear the valve, I could hear fluid if that makes sense until I pushed a little bit further.
Now my question is, is this bad for the transmission or inching valve? Or is this normal? It's better if I give the push rod to the master cylinder a bit more slack but that means you can push the brake pedal further towards the floor under heavy braking.
There's also a procedure to adjust the inching valve (added picture) but I kinda dread doing it and would rather leave it as it is.
2
My manual sadly doesn't specify any torque, just some stupid method with a spring scale as stated in another comment
2
Thanks, that's a method I like haha.
2
Thanks.
1 bearing sits in oil and the other in grease. I've added grease last time but I'll make sure to do it again and really stuff them
1
Thank's for the write-up. How would you do it without repacking the bearings? Tighten by hand as far as it goes and then the next slot for the cotter pin?
The official procedure in the service manual is kinda shit:
(a) Install the nut hand-tight with a socket wrench (special tool). (b) Rotate the hub and tap its periphery with a soft- head mallet for snug assembling. (c) Fully tighten the lock nut to obtain hub bearing preload within the specified limits. Note: To check the hub bearing preload, hook a spring scale on the hub bolt, then pull it to measure the tangential force of the hub bolt.
And the range is very wide, 4.5 to 45 N for the "tangential force of the hub bolt"
1
Ranger Raptor EU version
in
r/FordRaptor
•
1d ago
Didn't do it (yet). I'm thinking about extending my waranty, I'm a bit afraid about the cam phaser issue. And tuning would void the waranty soooo....