I was able to read this article. It is about a small bronze statuette which is believed to be a highly accurate copy of the original statue. The article argues that the statuette supports the theory that Lysippos was the sculptor of the original. Unfortunately, the statuette is empty-handed, unlike the (derivative) one I'm interested in.

That seems to be it! Thank you very much.

The tail of the dolphin is an interesting idea! I found these alternate images:

https://images-cdn.bridgemanimages.com/api/1.0/image/600wm.XXX.69616950.7055475/5958517.jpg (This one is different; the strands/forks are pointing down instead of up.)

https://elfinspell.com/images/Poseidon-PicC.jpg?quality=lossless

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Meyers_b13_s0268.jpg

and it looks like the dolphin's body may go up behind him; it would make sense if it comes between his legs so that the tail is in his hands. A side or rear view would help... I did a brief late-night image search, and it seems that ancient Greek and Roman art often portrayed dolphins with multi-forked tails that look kinda like the mystery object in Poseidon's hands.

Could you please provide a link to the article on JSTOR? I may be able to read it, and if so I'd be happy to report back on what it says.

The ratcheting part of the cassette screws on and off the hub. A specialized 12-spline tool fits inside the cassette (around the axle) to unscrew it, and you use an ordinary ratchet or big wrench to turn it. I borrowed one from my local bicycle co-op, but you can buy them inexpensively online. Here's a $10 name-brand tool, and a $5 generic tool.

The latest high-end USB-C chargers can charge at 240 watts by supplying 48 volts at 5 amps. That's still on the low end for ebikes.

It would be possible for ebike batteries to charge over usb-c, but it would require a little extra cost in electronics on the battery side.

In case you change you mind later, here's the inexpensive 11-34T cassette I installed: https://www.amazon.com/DRIFT-MANIAC-Freewheel-Speeds-11-34T/dp/B07XYPH5BG?th=1

I've quite enjoyed the upgrade; it gives an even-lower low gear which pulls a trailer up steep hills easily, and top gear is satisfyingly fast. I didn't have to change any other parts in order to get it to work.

I've made a few posts about my schwinn loop in the past:

• 2 August 2024
• 25 March 2024
• 20 August 2023

It comes stock with a seven-speed 13-28T drivetrain; I recommend upgrading to 11-34T. I've use the rack in a couple different ways:

• setting a backpack on top of it (I have some pictures of this)
• transporting 8-foot boards by bungee-cording them to the rack and to the front stem,
• and by strapping a milk crate onto the rack and dumping stuff in it.

u/hopsandspokes has posted about their upgrades

FWIW, I had a similar problem with the kickstand on my Schwinn Loop. It was okay on level pavement, but I had to be really careful any time I set it down on dirt or gravel because the already-short kickstand would sink or shift, and the whole bike would topple onto the left side. The problem was especially bad if I had anything heavy in the basket or on the rack; it was guaranteed to fall over in dirt or gravel moments after I let go of it.

I also lusted after a dual-legged kickstand, and contemplated modifying one meant for larger bikes, and even came up with a few ideas for making a custom one.

Then one day I went to my local bicycle co-op and rummaged through their crate of kickstands. I found one that was a just a little longer than the one on the bike and installed it. That largely solved the problem, and was very easy and cheap. If that hadn't been an option, I could have bought one of the universal adjustable kickstands, or bought a longer one and cut it down with a hacksaw.

I've had a pretty good experience with the Schwinn Loop. It doesn't have an adjustable handlebar height, but the height it has is okay for me, and most cheap folding bikes have adjustable handlebar height.

It's really great for hauling stuff around. The rack is pretty low, so putting a lot of stuff on it doesn't make the bike too tippy. I can put a basket on the rack and just toss in a bunch of stuff to carry. I've even carried eight-foot-long lumber by bungee-cording it to the rack and to the handlebar stem. For moving even more stuff, I can hitch it to an old Burley trailer.

The midwestern college town I live in doesn't have a huge problem with potholes. If it did, I might consider wider tires (maybe 2.25"?) or a suspension seatpost. This area does have a lot of hills, so I upgraded to an 11-34 cassette. The upgrade was very easy and a real improvement to over the stock gearing range.

I don't actually fold the bike up all that often. Maybe a couple times a month, mostly for carpooling. The Schwinn Loop is on the heavy side for folding bikes, and doesn't have anything to keep it together when folded. It does make carpooling very convenient.

The one real problem the Schwinn Loop has for me is that it keeps on getting water in the rear brake line, which freezes in the winter. It just happened today; I'll have to use some WD-40 or Heet to drive the water out again. So today, I rode my bikesdirect hybrid, which has hydraulic brakes that have never frozen on me. Apart from that, I've taken a preference to the Schwinn Loop, because it's easier to hop on and off of, and I find it fun, comfortable, and practical. I have at least 3,000 miles on it, and plan to do many more.

Does it do this with your newest batteries? Old, worn-out or damaged batteries will have more pronounced voltage sag when under heavy load.

Just to add a little more to /u/Ristray's excellent answer:

In the U.S.A., very few companies have pension programs for their employees. It's pretty much just government employees who get those. Employer-matching schemes, most especially 401k accounts, are by far the most common form of retirement benefits here.

I often think about this 2020 article from Current Affairs: The Truth is Paywalled but the Lies are Free: The political economy of bullshit.

Unlike New Glenn, Starship has a roadmap, and a large, fairly dependable customer who has already signed a contract, for the vehicle to be developed to be able to land on the moon. Presumably that was a very large factor in Lunar Outpost's decision to sign on with Starship.

NASA has contracted SpaceX to develop a version of Starship that can land payloads on the moon. It's how they plan to land astronauts there.

With a budget of $300, you should check your local secondhand market. Where I live, Facebook Marketplace is a popular way to sell used bikes. Some people still use Craigslist. There's also a community bicycle co-op which sells refurbished bikes.

New, you might consider an inexpensive folding bike? They can be had cheap, they fit most people, and their ability to fold has some practical upsides. Zizzos are popular on /r/foldingbikes. They have a couple models under $300, as well as refurbished ones for sale, and they ship free in the US. They also have a 10% off code HOLIDAYS24 now. You could have one shipped to your door and still have enough left over for other necessities and accessories.

Regardless of what bike you get, don't forget you'll need:

• a helmet. Virginia Tech tests and rates bicycle helmets; some of the models with a 5-star rating cost <$60
• lights. They don't have to be bright, but a white one in front and a red one in back are required in many states, and make you much more visible to drivers at night
• fenders. If you're riding to work, and it's wet outside (actively raining, recently rained with lots of puddles, or slushy), these are pretty much essential
• clothing for the weather you'll be riding in

This is how I bike pretty much everywhere in a hilly Midwest town:

• secondhand Schwinn Loop folding bike (used to be $300 new. I paid $150, and all it needed was the tires inflated and the seat clamp tightened). It comes stock with fenders. Zizzo sells theirs as a separate accessory, and you can also buy generic fender kits for different sizes of bike wheels online and at bike shops.
• Specialized Align II helmet. It has MIPS, which many bicycle helmets have to help reduce brain injury in crashes.
• Frogg Toggs rain pants and similar jacket
• Planet bike blinky lights and also their BRT lighted ankle strap, for good measure. Drivers can much more easily identify a light as belonging to a bicycle if they see it going up and down.

ENGWE M20

At $899, that's 3x what OP wants to pay.

https://www.amazon.com/Snowy-Night-Street-Lamp-Decorations/dp/B0DKXPB4S6

The second one really does look marginal.

It looks like you've been using some sort of fabric or paper product to scrub at it, given the torn fibers all around. You should switch to something a bit more aggressive, like a wire brush or sandpaper.

Those are called pogo pins. They're made individually and soldered into place.

https://electricscooterparts.com/index.html

displaylink looks like a similar but distinct option. Again, it needs a separate piece of hardware (which can be gotten expensive new or cheap used ) and also an app, which also has poor reviews.

You can see the original comments in the Internet Archive's WayBack Machine.

It's not a product link, but rather a youtube link. The video has a broken amazon product link, but I think this right here is a similar product. The devices requires an app, which has pretty poor reviews.

Nylock (nylon insert) nuts and loctite are both good solutions.

Nylcok nuts require no preparation and don't make a mess, but do require tools to install. They can be re-used several times, but they do wear out over time.

Loctite requires adding a drop to each bolt right before you screw on the nut, but you can thread the fasteners on by hand, and only need tools to get the final tightness. DO NOT use near polycarbonate (lexan) parts; even a tiny bit of contact will chemically ruin the plastic and make it crack apart.

There's not really any point in using loctite on nylock nuts.

One other option is bolts with nylon patches on them. These let you use regular nuts, or parts with threaded holes, and will not harm polycarbonate parts.