Been saving little by little for about 4 years for this watch to coincide with my graduation. After the yen fell I was able to get a great deal on an unpolished one from yahoo japan. Very happy with this.

Hello, wanted to show off my first ever woodworking project I made over my winter break as I’m pretty proud of my work, and also want some feedback. I recently graduated college and wanted to upgrade from my horrible twin bed I used to a nice full sized platform bedframe. My inspo was this bedframe from the brand “Zen”. I honestly can’t afford a 700 dollar bed frame and the design seemed simple enough to make so I went for it. I needed it to be light and easy to disassemble for moving.

I used the following: - 2 beams of 2x6x16ft redwood from Lowes - 1 oak peg - 2x6ft aluminum L bracket - 1 small tube of pl400 glue - screws (already had these in parents garage) - angled and peg drill jigs (also already had these) - IKEA Skorva center support beam - IKEA Luroey full sized bed slats - min wax mahogany gel stain - minwax warm satin polyurethane finish - 2 of the 4inx4ft velcro rolls -sander with 100 and 250 grit pads (already had this) -drill

I had the wood cut to size at Lowes for free and then sanded everything once I got home with 100 then 250 grit sandpaper. I then made 2 angled screw holes into each leg for the long beams of the frame to be mounted onto. I drilled these in and did the same with a small piece at the end of the horizontal section that would provide stability (hidden behind the legs). I then glued and screwed these together. I then made 2 peg holes on each leg where the horizontal pieces lay on it so they can be pressed in and also disassembled into just the sides when I have to move. I glued in the pegs to where the legs meet the horizontal boards. I then applied one coat of the mahogany stain, let dry for 6 hours, and did 2 coats of the polyurethane. Finally, the next day, I mounted the L brackets on each side with screws ever~1 foot. and mounted the removable center beam from IKEA. To hold the slats I put a screw on each corner into the L bracket to hold tension and applied velcro to the middle beam and edges of the middle slats to hold everything together. It turned out pretty good imo, and holds weight well. Let me know how I did!

Hello, I was looking at this Santos on an auction site but this is the only picture up and I cannot tell if it has been polished or not, can anyone with more experience help me determine if this has been polished? Thanks in advance.

Saw this Haider Ackermann shirt on pintrest from 2016. Its 100% silk fabric with this chevron pattern, was wondering if anyone knew something similar. Pic1 Pic2

Hey all,

I have been looking to make a custom dial for a watch I am working on and have seen a lot of talk about waterslide decal paper being an affordable way for adding custom elements.

My dial would be black and white and I am struggling to figure out what type of decal paper would work for this purpose. My original idea was to paint the blank white using a white primer. Then apply all the black details using film free waterslide decal paper, but I see a lot of videos where the designs do not come out very clear and crisp. This wouldn't be a problem normally but the dial I have is for a square watch and I can't find any extra dial blanks for an affordable price, so don't want to risk destroying it for no reason.

My next idea was to just use the normal decal paper with a white background and apply it straight to the metal, I think this would reduce the chances of the small logo and other intricate details from being messed up in the process. I haven't seen anyone use the regular paper with watches however and I am not sure how the decal background would look and if it would be convincing as a watch dial (maybe it looks too "plasticy" for example).

Has anyone used these papers before and if so should I just stick to the film free or should I try the white background paper?