It was a good price at least, but I'm not sure if theres anything specific about these that suck.

600w rms

Owner wanted a different sound system installed as he was not happy with this setup. Audio shop recommended a completely different audio build and removed this equipment from his Porsche. I made an offer on the Pro 5/30 and the owner countered with the entire audio setup instead for my offer as he didnt want to deal with it. 😱 This wasn't even a year old build. I'm going to use the gear in two different builds. Alpine, Masconi Pro and TW3's are going in my truck build as I already have a JL 3 way active front stage and rear passive setup ready to install. The focal will be put to use up front in my 67 Mustang using RF Power 600.4/BD1000.1 amplifiers and JL H.O. 10W3.

I've been into car audio for a while but I haven't ever heard any rule of thumb for the power rating of a front stage VS the power rating of your subs when designing a system. Is there any such rule at all?

I've had many audiophile headphones, demoed a bunch of home audio systems more expensive than my house, but never heard a car audio system with anything more than 100W front stage and 500W sub amp. Is there a clear benefit with going with higher wattage front stage if the driver quality is about the same? And how would you take power into account when selecting a sub amp?

Photo for attention

I have a shitbox and I want to make it comically shitty. What is the cheapest way to get lots of bass, even if the actual sound is super low quality?

I just bought a 2005 Audi A4 and i found this thing installed in it and i did some research and found out it's a Parrot MK3000 of some sort. The car also came with this display that sometimes lights up with parking sensors.

I was wondering what can i do with this thing? I figured out how to connect it to my phone and the person on the other line is unable to hear me. Is it worth keeping?

I'm about ready to leave my Skar SDR10 behind, it's worked well but the audio bug bit me and I'm ready for better equipment. I've been doing a bunch of research and I think I've narrowed my choices down to any of these three.

I hear a ton of great things about Sundown and DD, but it seems like on paper the Dayton is the superior choice here? Aside from a slightly lower rms rating, everything else seems a little better.

I have a Stinger MT1000.1 amp and will be building a ported box for whatever sub I get, most likely tuned to around 32-35hz since a lot of stuff i listen to has lower end bass. Will be running at 1000rms at 1ohm.

Or do I just buy once cry once and save for an SQL12 and hope they come back in stock lol.

Hey guys, I just bought a pair of DEAF BONCE APOCALYPSE DB-SA2508 for my extended cab Ranger. I’m hoping to have a custom enclosure built for them tuned to around 37Hz to go directly on the back of my passenger or driver side seat (1 need to be able to leave one side available for a passenger). I was wondering if anyone has had a similar set up on their truck and what would you guys recommend so these subs can best perform.

I’ll be pushing these subs with an Orion XTR 1500.1.

Hello, so I have a Sony dsx-a415bt in my 2000 Chevy blazer and finally got my skar 2 svr-12s installed but when I go up in volume the door speakers turn off and the subwoofer keeps playing. To get the speakers going again I have to unplug the headunit and plug it back in. Would this be an issue with the headunit or something with the subwoofer. The headunit is 2 days old from the store. When the subs aren't connected door speakers works fine and go all the way up

I just bought a skar sdr 10 because my alpine blew up (ik I shoulda got another alpine scar audio quality blah blah blah it's fine I know I could ) done better for money spent.

Anywaysss it came wired for 1 ohm and I re wired it for 4 ohms. I was wondering if because I re wired it for 4 ohms if the RMS would change. Can I push more? Can I push less?

Also I have an amp that can do 800 watts @4ohms and I was wondering how hard you can push skars. Some people have said you can just throw power at em and it'll take it or if there not as bulletproof as people say.

TLDR: can I push 800watts @4ohms on this. And. Does making it 4ohm mess with RMS Thanks guys

Haven't installed a radio in quite awhile, so this Silverado had the stock unit go out, I'm looking for a cheap replacement, preferably with car play.

But I also have the steering wheel controls and old Bose system in there, if a head unit says compatible do I need an extra harness or adapter for that or is everything included?

Please give me some advice or suggestions on easy solutions, not looking to put in subs, if anything I might upgrade the stock speakers down road but I don't need anything crazy as it's just my work truck

What's the actual max mounting depth, and what adapters can I use to increase it a bit?

Thinking of running a dsp and multiple amps, but door speaker selection is holding me back.

I can't inspect the actual vehicle rn

Looking to upgrade my sub which is a stock mark levinson system. Looking for a sq sub that sounds good in a small box. I have a 600 watt rms amp at 2ohms. I was looking into jl w310, dayton reference or image dynamics (think it needs a bigger box).

Budget $300 for a 10"

I’m getting a newer car that comes with a screen so i won’t be able to put an after market head unit in, which causes me to have to get a lc2, but will roll off be a major issue? I have a box tuned to 27 hz with two Resilient Sounds Gold V2 12” subs on a 2k, i know it’s not gonna go smash the competition but i wanna get as loud as possible so i can’t be dealing with not being able to play frequencies under 30 hz when my subs can EASILY do that. I plan on getting a LC2I Pro from Audio Control and a DSP (Digital Sound Processor) from either taramps or ds18, i know the lc2i pro has AccuBass but how much is that going to help? and will a dsp bring back notes that were lost due to roll off? Please help and thank you sm 🙏🏽 any recommendations would be lovely as well.

Ill keep it short. I have 3 amplifiers each with 80 amp fuses. So 240 amps. I want to get a new alternator as mine is only around 125 amps. So the new alternator, does it have to be at least 240 amps? Could i get by with lower amps? I understand my amps arent always consuming the 80 amps each. Especially not the amp for fronts and rears. So would i be safe with like a 200 amp, 225 amp? Also any suggestions on alts would be appreciated. Its kinda hard to find them over 225 for my car.

Just ordered this part from amazon for my pioneer avh-2330nex in my Acura tl 06 but I’m getting no sound is there any other cheaper harnesses I can get that will make everything work without having to splice into anything

I have a silverado 2 door. Im wanting to use the Kicker 10inch sub with box, behind the seat. It is rated 300 watt rms. My head unit is something chinese, so im gonna need amp to power the door speakers 150 rms.

DO i need to buy 2 amps? Or is there an amp that can do it all?

recently ordered a d2 Zv6 18 and am planning the setup to run it in parallel to 1 ohm. I couldn't find anything definitive online about this. Trying to find out what size the spring terminals are if anyone by chance knows? Have sky high 8 gauge wire to run to them.

So I'm trying to wire 2 10w1v3-4 JL subs to my amp but everytime i connect both it shorts. if i leave the one that shorts disconnected or swap it with a kicker cvr it doesn't short and works fine. can anyone tell me why it keeps shorting? it can't be the wiring or amp since using a different sub doesn't short it so im kinda lost

Hey, so I’ve recently installed a pioneer da250dab headunit to my car. Upon attempting to use the wired CarPlay It seems to not see my phone at all, I get no charging or anything. I didn’t know if something was wrong with the unit so I sent it back and got a replacement. Now this new one has arrived, it’s the same story. Now I really don’t get why I’m getting nothing out of the usb port.

Any thoughts would be appreciated thanks.

I have mapped out what I think I want to do in my Jeep. I will have 4 8inch speakers in my sound bar as part of the system I want to install. I want to use 4 VO-MX208 speakers from DD audio. These are coaxial speakers, what are you thoughts? Should I do 2 coaxials and 2 components? If it helps im also adding 2 DD audio 10 inch subs.