My buddy is a fucking nut-job. These are the bass amps getting put into the new build, along with 40 banks or 2000ah of LTO.

I can already feel the death.

Got a Kicker CXA800.1T, with 2 MTX Terminator 12s. Im happy with it so far and im getting a heat unit next week. Y’all think it’ll make a decent difference?

Tweeters- JL CF-275mt

Door Speakers- JL C2-690tx/ JL C2-650x

Subs- JL 12TW3 x 2

Amps- JL RD400/ JL RD 1000

AudioControl Epicenter

AudioControl LC7i Subwoofer

Subwoofer enclosure- MTI Acoustics

It was a good price at least, but I'm not sure if theres anything specific about these that suck.

Owner wanted a different sound system installed as he was not happy with this setup. Audio shop recommended a completely different audio build and removed this equipment from his Porsche. I made an offer on the Pro 5/30 and the owner countered with the entire audio setup instead for my offer as he didnt want to deal with it. 😱 This wasn't even a year old build. I'm going to use the gear in two different builds. Alpine, Masconi Pro and TW3's are going in my truck build as I already have a JL 3 way active front stage and rear passive setup ready to install. The focal will be put to use up front in my 67 Mustang using RF Power 600.4/BD1000.1 amplifiers and JL H.O. 10W3.

So I recently had a Sony xav-9500es installed in my GMC Canyon and I was under the impression you could screen mirroring to it. Does anyone know if any dongles like magic box 3.0 or ottocast play2video work? Feeling slightly disappointed that on family trips I have to load videos onto a USB for the kids to watch anything.

I just picked up this sundown ZV6 D2 12" 2500 RMS sub. I'm currently running a 2000.1 stinger. It rattles the truck but if I turn my gain past 75% I start to hear it clipping. I was thinking about a JP33 or a JP43 because they're currently on sale. The JP33 can do 4484 watts dyno certified 1% @ 1 ohm load which would be way more than enough power for my ZV6. Are there any better options available, is the salt 4 really worth $1200?

One day it will be beautiful but it works

On my 2006 GMC Sierra, decided I didn’t like the last build I did, with the Focal mids and tweets, they were too bulky and I couldn’t get them aimed where I wanted.

So, picked up a pair of Morel Supremo Piccolo tweeters, which play a little lower than the Focals I had, and I prefer a silk dome anyway.

Used the same techniques, used 1/4” acrylic to make a mounting surface, with notches routed for the wires and I routed a recess for a cleaner look. Got them aimed where I wanted, and got to work on the fiberglass and filler process. Finished with Duratex, slightly sanded for texture purposes, and finished with a gray SEM spray. Overall very happy with the finished look.

They sound great after my initial DSP tune. I’m sure I will tweak things as I get some time listening.

Is there any reason why a single DIN am/fm/cd/tuner from a big rig or bus wouldn't work in a car? I see some advertised for semis and buses but I see no difference other than certain features like PA systems and weather bands

I have been reading through this sub a little bit and haven’t found anything quite like I am seeing with my set up right now. Anyone with some advice would be greatly appreciated.

This is the 4-5th camera I have installed now. I am working on a 2011 Camry LE. I am typically good at remembering to unplug the battery but this time I forgot. I have got everything installed and the camera is not triggering the head unit. Also, my check engine light is now on and throwing the code P2111 (throttle control actuator stuck open). I am assuming this is because of a short or something that I caused by not disconnecting the battery.

How would you go about fixing this? Is it simple like a fuse? Or did I likely fry the whole throttle actuator. I know very little about electronics especially car electronics. I have a multimeter but am not sure where to read across to get any answers.

Again any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hey all, I just picked up a 2017 Lincoln Continental and I’m looking to upgrade the sound system. I’m mainly after deeper bass, but I don’t want it to rattle or be obnoxious from the outside. Ideally, I’d like something compact (maybe an under-seat sub) but I’m open to other setups if they make more sense.

I’m also thinking about upgrading the factory speakers for better clarity and overall sound. I’m pretty green when it comes to car audio, so I’m not sure if I need a sub, amp, and new speakers, or just one or two of those components.

Any suggestions or guidance would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Car is old with 300k miles

Cd changed to next disk and this happened And stay like this for all disks Even when took out and back in

Need advice

I just put in some new speaker and my back left one makes some type of sound when no audio is being played

Are there any speaker manufacturers somewhere in between the likes Alpine/JBL but not as expensive as Bang & Olufsen / Bose?

Looking for a pair of 6.5" speakers for the car but so far none of the JBL, Pioneer, Kenwwod, JVC or Alpine ones I have listened to produce anywhere near realistic audiophile sound.

Hey Guys In Need of Help!! I Have Three 8 Ohm 10" Prv Midbass Speakers With A Max Rms Of 1000 Watts Each Speaker, Wondering What Exact Amp To Get To Play These Speakers To Their Full Potenial New To The Music Scene... Much Appreciated.

I brought this digital output and was blown away with the sound quality. my laptop audio driver can only play up 24bit 96khz. I have a fully active 3 way set up. Has anyone tried this in car audio?

Im looking to replace all 4 door speakers with either JBL Club 64SQ 6.5 coaxials or kicker ks 6.5, what would be better for me? I’m wanting to replace all 4 door speaker and already have 2 kicker LR7 “ installed. Wanted to power said door speakers with kicker cxa360.4 other options are always good price range up to $150 for each set TIA

I have a shitbox and I want to make it comically shitty. What is the cheapest way to get lots of bass, even if the actual sound is super low quality?

So i right now have an mds subwoofer 350rms and the box i pretty big and chunky, no worries there my car is pretty big. But i would really want an upgrade but since im on a budget, FB marketplace it is. I found 2x10” cerwin vega, i spoke to the guy selling them and he said they are 450rms with 1600w max capacity ( english is not my firt language dont know all the words) my question is, should i buy it, is it worth it? I would like a bit more space in my truck the box is smaller.

Any help is appreciated

just got my new setup installed: Skar SVR-2x12D4 (dual 12s running at 1200W RMS) powered by a Skar 1500W monoblock amp.

Right now, I’ve got the gain set around halfway, no bass boost, +4db speaker level increase in radio settings. What’s the best way to handle the break-in period? Should I just keep playing it at moderate volume and let it naturally loosen up over time?

It already sounds better than my old 300W RMS 10”, but I’m not blown away yet. I’m guessing it’ll open up more as it breaks in, but I wanted to see if there’s any rule of thumb I should follow.