It was a good price at least, but I'm not sure if theres anything specific about these that suck.

My buddy is a fucking nut-job. These are the bass amps getting put into the new build, along with 40 banks or 2000ah of LTO.

I can already feel the death.

Owner wanted a different sound system installed as he was not happy with this setup. Audio shop recommended a completely different audio build and removed this equipment from his Porsche. I made an offer on the Pro 5/30 and the owner countered with the entire audio setup instead for my offer as he didnt want to deal with it. 😱 This wasn't even a year old build. I'm going to use the gear in two different builds. Alpine, Masconi Pro and TW3's are going in my truck build as I already have a JL 3 way active front stage and rear passive setup ready to install. The focal will be put to use up front in my 67 Mustang using RF Power 600.4/BD1000.1 amplifiers and JL H.O. 10W3.

On my 2006 GMC Sierra, decided I didn’t like the last build I did, with the Focal mids and tweets, they were too bulky and I couldn’t get them aimed where I wanted.

So, picked up a pair of Morel Supremo Piccolo tweeters, which play a little lower than the Focals I had, and I prefer a silk dome anyway.

Used the same techniques, used 1/4” acrylic to make a mounting surface, with notches routed for the wires and I routed a recess for a cleaner look. Got them aimed where I wanted, and got to work on the fiberglass and filler process. Finished with Duratex, slightly sanded for texture purposes, and finished with a gray SEM spray. Overall very happy with the finished look.

They sound great after my initial DSP tune. I’m sure I will tweak things as I get some time listening.

One day it will be beautiful but it works

I have a shitbox and I want to make it comically shitty. What is the cheapest way to get lots of bass, even if the actual sound is super low quality?

Got a Kicker CXA800.1T, with 2 MTX Terminator 12s. Im happy with it so far and im getting a heat unit next week. Y’all think it’ll make a decent difference?

just got my new setup installed: Skar SVR-2x12D4 (dual 12s running at 1200W RMS) powered by a Skar 1500W monoblock amp.

Right now, I’ve got the gain set around halfway, no bass boost, +4db speaker level increase in radio settings. What’s the best way to handle the break-in period? Should I just keep playing it at moderate volume and let it naturally loosen up over time?

It already sounds better than my old 300W RMS 10”, but I’m not blown away yet. I’m guessing it’ll open up more as it breaks in, but I wanted to see if there’s any rule of thumb I should follow.

Tweeters- JL CF-275mt

Door Speakers- JL C2-690tx/ JL C2-650x

Subs- JL 12TW3 x 2

Amps- JL RD400/ JL RD 1000

AudioControl Epicenter

AudioControl LC7i Subwoofer

Subwoofer enclosure- MTI Acoustics

I'm about ready to leave my Skar SDR10 behind, it's worked well but the audio bug bit me and I'm ready for better equipment. I've been doing a bunch of research and I think I've narrowed my choices down to any of these three.

I hear a ton of great things about Sundown and DD, but it seems like on paper the Dayton is the superior choice here? Aside from a slightly lower rms rating, everything else seems a little better.

I have a Stinger MT1000.1 amp and will be building a ported box for whatever sub I get, most likely tuned to around 32-35hz since a lot of stuff i listen to has lower end bass. Will be running at 1000rms at 1ohm.

Or do I just buy once cry once and save for an SQL12 and hope they come back in stock lol.

Right now I have a 5 channel amp. Looking to get 2 separate amps (4 cannel and a mono) and replace the 5 channel. But, I wanted to see if I could do this in two phases.

I would buy a 4 channel amp and 0 gauge wiring kit (to replace my 4 gauge). Run the 0 gauge to a fused distribution block. Then run 4 gauge to the new 4 channel amp and another 4 gauge to the old 5 channel amp. This would mean I would just use the mono channel of the 5 channel amp for a few months. At that point I would replace the 5 channel with a mono amp.

Any issues with this method?

Then I wonder about grounding two amps. Each amp would have to go under the front driver/passenger seat. Originally I figured grounding separate would be fine but then I recently learned about ground loop issues and people suggesting to ground the amps to the same ground. That would be a decent bit longer that the typically ~18-24 inches at least for one of the amps.

What's the best way of approaching this?

Thanks.

I just put this in my car, main battery was disconnected during. Red cable with blue shrink wrap is the postoperative wire coming from up front. There is a ground wire connected to the negative terminal I know it's hard to see. There's supposed to be a fuse there but I hadn't put it in yet. Before I went to hookup the main battery(i never did) i opened the front door and there was a fast paced ticking noise. When I disconnected the negative terminal on the second battery it stopped. Thoughts?

Car is old with 300k miles

Cd changed to next disk and this happened And stay like this for all disks Even when took out and back in

Need advice

I brought this digital output and was blown away with the sound quality. my laptop audio driver can only play up 24bit 96khz. I have a fully active 3 way set up. Has anyone tried this in car audio?

I read my cars wiring diagram and connected the wires to this aftermarket stereo from walmart and im bot getting power. I tried pitting the ground wire on the chasis and i also cut the power outlets wire off nd tried using the black wire from that as a ground still nothing idk now🤷🏾‍♂️

Made a quick amplifier board out of MDF so i can tuck my amps away in the rrar storage compartment of my 2 door JL. Never ran 2 amplifiers or an LC2i before, can anyone see any blatant issues? I moved the LC2i to the left to keep it away from the heavy gauge power cables, i dont know if it would have caused any issues with sound had they run beside eachother. Still need to run the wires in the Jeep and find some short RCA cables. Underneath the board are 2 distribution blocks to split the power and grounds so i only need to run one cable from the engine bay. Want to make a breathable cover as well. Running 2 Pioneer TS-A2500LS4 300w RMS, kicker amp is supplying 1000w RMS @ 2 ohms. not earth shaking but more than enough to feel the bass with the top off at highway speeds so thats enough for me. Other amp is for the Hertz 6.5 component speakers i put in the sound bar. I know i could run a single amp for everything but ive had this Kicker amp for 10 years and its still going strong.

I just picked up this sundown ZV6 D2 12" 2500 RMS sub. I'm currently running a 2000.1 stinger. It rattles the truck but if I turn my gain past 75% I start to hear it clipping. I was thinking about a JP33 or a JP43 because they're currently on sale. The JP33 can do 4484 watts dyno certified 1% @ 1 ohm load which would be way more than enough power for my ZV6. Are there any better options available, is the salt 4 really worth $1200?

Is there any reason why a single DIN am/fm/cd/tuner from a big rig or bus wouldn't work in a car? I see some advertised for semis and buses but I see no difference other than certain features like PA systems and weather bands

I have been reading through this sub a little bit and haven’t found anything quite like I am seeing with my set up right now. Anyone with some advice would be greatly appreciated.

This is the 4-5th camera I have installed now. I am working on a 2011 Camry LE. I am typically good at remembering to unplug the battery but this time I forgot. I have got everything installed and the camera is not triggering the head unit. Also, my check engine light is now on and throwing the code P2111 (throttle control actuator stuck open). I am assuming this is because of a short or something that I caused by not disconnecting the battery.

How would you go about fixing this? Is it simple like a fuse? Or did I likely fry the whole throttle actuator. I know very little about electronics especially car electronics. I have a multimeter but am not sure where to read across to get any answers.

Again any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hey all, I just picked up a 2017 Lincoln Continental and I’m looking to upgrade the sound system. I’m mainly after deeper bass, but I don’t want it to rattle or be obnoxious from the outside. Ideally, I’d like something compact (maybe an under-seat sub) but I’m open to other setups if they make more sense.

I’m also thinking about upgrading the factory speakers for better clarity and overall sound. I’m pretty green when it comes to car audio, so I’m not sure if I need a sub, amp, and new speakers, or just one or two of those components.

Any suggestions or guidance would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I just put in some new speaker and my back left one makes some type of sound when no audio is being played