Bare with me as I’m not the most inclined to car audio; So basically I have a 03 g35. I took my head unit, which is a dual xdcpa10bt, to be installed. When I picked the car up, I was told by the shop owner that the amp that is inside the head unit does not meet the power output requirement to play properly, and so at max volume music is very quiet. So I went home and decided to do research.

I have 2 g35s, one of which has a dcpa701 installed, with absolutely no issues. I then dug deeper to learn that both head units output the same amount of power, 50 watts x4 to each speaker. So now I’m wondering, what exactly is wrong? Could I have misheard and he meant the cars built in amp? I’m not exactly sure but any insight is very much so appreciated.

just got my new setup installed: Skar SVR-2x12D4 (dual 12s running at 1200W RMS) powered by a Skar 1500W monoblock amp.

Right now, I’ve got the gain set around halfway, no bass boost, +4db speaker level increase in radio settings. What’s the best way to handle the break-in period? Should I just keep playing it at moderate volume and let it naturally loosen up over time?

It already sounds better than my old 300W RMS 10”, but I’m not blown away yet. I’m guessing it’ll open up more as it breaks in, but I wanted to see if there’s any rule of thumb I should follow.

There’s 16 bands 31hz, 46hz, 63hz, 125hz, 230hz, 400hz, 630hz, 810hz, 1khz, 2khz, 4khz, 6khz, 8khz, 12khz, 14khz, and 16khz (for the first slide) if you guys can’t see clearly, but i don’t remember what brand this android car player is.

Idk the difference between dsp and asp, and if i need to tune both to get a good bass boost. For context i still have my factory standard car speaker, im planning to change to some better speakers in the future. But for now these speakers are sufficient.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge of these things 😅

Are there any speaker manufacturers somewhere in between the likes Alpine/JBL but not as expensive as Bang & Olufsen / Bose?

Looking for a pair of 6.5" speakers for the car but so far none of the JBL, Pioneer, Kenwwod, JVC or Alpine ones I have listened to produce anywhere near realistic audiophile sound.

My Joying head unit used to work perfectly fine on my 2017 Honda Civic. Then one day, I answered a facetime audio call, and immediately after my phone would no longer connect. Now I can’t even charge my phone from the charging port or using the other USB port on the back of the head unit (both used to be able to charge before). I would try to factory reset, but I cannot figure out where in the factory settings is a reset option! I’ve attached photos of the unit info screens if at all helpful. TIA!!! 😭😭❤️

I have a jl12tw3-d4 and I get that it's supposed to be used for shallow applications and small boxes, But.......

on my journey to learn about building boxes and looking at qtc it seems that if I want a qtc of 0.707 like how everyone says is the smoothest response curve I'm looking at a 2.23 cu/ft box? Is that gonna be bad for the sub to be in? Jl has a recommendation of like 0.8 cu/ft. From what I can tell in winisd I'd have to basically half the power for cone excursion to be safe which is fine by me.

I'm a big noob to this stuff so if I'm missing something else to know if it's safe let me know please and thank you. Really don't want to mess up this sub but also interested in how a big box could sound.

Should also mention I'm only looking at doing a sealed box right now.

I already put CLD on the inner and outer skins, and door cards. I’m planning on using ResoNix fibermat on the door cards as well. Would a 1/2” (limited space, most I could do) of Second Skin’s Mega Zorbe in the doors make a significant difference beyond everything else? If so, is it going to have a bigger impact on cutting out road noise, or improving sound system quality?

I just bought a skar sdr 10 because my alpine blew up (ik I shoulda got another alpine scar audio quality blah blah blah it's fine I know I could ) done better for money spent.

Anywaysss it came wired for 1 ohm and I re wired it for 4 ohms. I was wondering if because I re wired it for 4 ohms if the RMS would change. Can I push more? Can I push less?

Also I have an amp that can do 800 watts @4ohms and I was wondering how hard you can push skars. Some people have said you can just throw power at em and it'll take it or if there not as bulletproof as people say.

TLDR: can I push 800watts @4ohms on this. And. Does making it 4ohm mess with RMS Thanks guys

I cant tell if one of them is on and I cant reach it without removing my dash so kinda stuck.

One day it will be beautiful but it works

There’s 16 bands 31hz, 46hz, 63hz, 125hz, 230hz, 400hz, 630hz, 810hz, 1khz, 2khz, 4khz, 6khz, 8khz, 12khz, 14khz, and 16khz (for the first slide) if you guys can’t see clearly, but i don’t remember what brand this android car player is.

Idk the difference between dsp and asp, and if i need to tune both to get a good bass boost. For context i still have my factory standard car speaker, im planning to change to some better speakers in the future. But for now these speakers are sufficient.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge of these things 😅

Right now I have a 5 channel amp. Looking to get 2 separate amps (4 cannel and a mono) and replace the 5 channel. But, I wanted to see if I could do this in two phases.

I would buy a 4 channel amp and 0 gauge wiring kit (to replace my 4 gauge). Run the 0 gauge to a fused distribution block. Then run 4 gauge to the new 4 channel amp and another 4 gauge to the old 5 channel amp. This would mean I would just use the mono channel of the 5 channel amp for a few months. At that point I would replace the 5 channel with a mono amp.

Any issues with this method?

Then I wonder about grounding two amps. Each amp would have to go under the front driver/passenger seat. Originally I figured grounding separate would be fine but then I recently learned about ground loop issues and people suggesting to ground the amps to the same ground. That would be a decent bit longer that the typically ~18-24 inches at least for one of the amps.

What's the best way of approaching this?

Thanks.

I just put this in my car, main battery was disconnected during. Red cable with blue shrink wrap is the postoperative wire coming from up front. There is a ground wire connected to the negative terminal I know it's hard to see. There's supposed to be a fuse there but I hadn't put it in yet. Before I went to hookup the main battery(i never did) i opened the front door and there was a fast paced ticking noise. When I disconnected the negative terminal on the second battery it stopped. Thoughts?

It was a good price at least, but I'm not sure if theres anything specific about these that suck.

I have a shitbox and I want to make it comically shitty. What is the cheapest way to get lots of bass, even if the actual sound is super low quality?

My buddy is a fucking nut-job. These are the bass amps getting put into the new build, along with 40 banks or 2000ah of LTO.

I can already feel the death.

Tweeters- JL CF-275mt

Door Speakers- JL C2-690tx/ JL C2-650x

Subs- JL 12TW3 x 2

Amps- JL RD400/ JL RD 1000

AudioControl Epicenter

AudioControl LC7i Subwoofer

Subwoofer enclosure- MTI Acoustics

Got a Kicker CXA800.1T, with 2 MTX Terminator 12s. Im happy with it so far and im getting a heat unit next week. Y’all think it’ll make a decent difference?

On my 2006 GMC Sierra, decided I didn’t like the last build I did, with the Focal mids and tweets, they were too bulky and I couldn’t get them aimed where I wanted.

So, picked up a pair of Morel Supremo Piccolo tweeters, which play a little lower than the Focals I had, and I prefer a silk dome anyway.

Used the same techniques, used 1/4” acrylic to make a mounting surface, with notches routed for the wires and I routed a recess for a cleaner look. Got them aimed where I wanted, and got to work on the fiberglass and filler process. Finished with Duratex, slightly sanded for texture purposes, and finished with a gray SEM spray. Overall very happy with the finished look.

They sound great after my initial DSP tune. I’m sure I will tweak things as I get some time listening.

I just picked up this sundown ZV6 D2 12" 2500 RMS sub. I'm currently running a 2000.1 stinger. It rattles the truck but if I turn my gain past 75% I start to hear it clipping. I was thinking about a JP33 or a JP43 because they're currently on sale. The JP33 can do 4484 watts dyno certified 1% @ 1 ohm load which would be way more than enough power for my ZV6. Are there any better options available, is the salt 4 really worth $1200?

Is there any reason why a single DIN am/fm/cd/tuner from a big rig or bus wouldn't work in a car? I see some advertised for semis and buses but I see no difference other than certain features like PA systems and weather bands