Turning the key and seeing this. I’m thinking dead battery

Just after some tips or advice from you guys on how to fix the scratches on the car from a bush/branches after driving through a narrow lane and needing to tuck myself in so the car passing wouldn't scratch me... damn lesser or two evils which had me screwed anyway. Would a simple scratch pen be enough, or would it need sanding etc? Typically the orange car makes everything look worse. Thanks in advance.

The other day I saw 2 mice run out from under my car. This is the first time I've seen mice in the 2 years of living in this location. My unit is flanked by 2 other units (so 3 in total) with a 5 car, covered carport behind the units, off the road. In my mind, between the 3 units that share the carport, there should be enough human activity that I don't think mice should like it too much? But who knows.

My question is what can I do to help prevent rodent related issues? Or is a one off instance not worth worrying about? I know that mice inherently will be outside, but an ounce of prevention is worth an pound of cure you know? I've looked into the repellent-scented bags but my understanding is those have to be removed from the engine bay each time you drive and that seems like a hassle since my car is a daily. Right now my best guess are the flashing/ultrasonic emitters and peppermint oil. I know they aren't perfect but research indicates they seem to be more reliable than the scented options.

Some further details that may be relevant:

• The car is parked behind the unit in a 5 car, covered car port. I would say that 4 of 5 cars move quite frequently and one car right next to mine doesn't seem to have moved at all in the past 2 or more weeks.
• There is a compost and rubbish bin nearish to my car (about 20-30ft) away but the lids are always closed and shut and there isn't food or trash leaking out from them. Can't really park my car further away from the trash though.
• I've sprinkled cayenne pepper around the tyres of my car in the meantime. Also considering sprinkling some cat litter near where I park.
• I drive the car at least 1x a week, usually more than that though.
• I keep my car fairly clean. No trash and very minimal food (a couple snack bars stashed for emergencies).
• I have left my car unused and parked there multiple times ranging from 1 week up to 1 month before. Knock on wood but those times didn't seem to show any issues.

I have a bottle of unopened dot4 brake fluid from 2020 its production date is 2019 it is stored in a cool place.Is it ok to use it in my car ?

sorry for horrible video skills. this just started an hour or so ago, whenever i turn hard or make sharp movements this liquid comes out from under the glove box. Clear, watery, tastes soapy, but left my tongue feeling a tingly after a quick finger lick

I know it 4 cyl diesel but can i do something on exhaust that it can produce more sporty sound, i dont care for louder, just tone

Can someone help me identify make model of car in images please?

Hi there,

I'm a bit concerned about the cost of running my Delica Space gear. I love the van, but I want to tow the line between fun and sensible.

I've requested ChatGPT to show a comparison between the vehicles I'm interested in, I was quite shocked to see how expensive it is to run the Foresters.

Comparatively, the Delica isn't as bad as I thought. I do weekly fuel checks, and the Delica is accurate for me.

In my country, currently, Diesel is $1.89 but costs $76 per 1000km, and Petrol is $2.55

The Diesel Corolla is a great option, except I can only find it as a hatch, I kind of want a wagon that I can sleep in :)

I do 10,000km a year.

Let's update the calculations with petrol at NZD 2.55 per liter and diesel at NZD 1.89 per liter:

City-Only Annual Fuel Costs:

2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L:

• Fuel needed = (12.6 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,260 liters
• Annual cost = 1,260 × 2.55 = NZD 3,213.00

2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L:

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 2.55 = NZD 2,907.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L (Petrol):

• Fuel needed = (9.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 940 liters
• Annual cost = 940 × 2.55 = NZD 2,397.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel:

• Fuel needed = (6.7 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 670 liters
• Annual cost = 670 × 1.89 = NZD 1,266.30
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,026.30

Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD):

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 1.89 = NZD 2,154.60
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,914.60

Updated Comparison:

• 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L: NZD 3,213.00
• 2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L: NZD 2,907.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L: NZD 2,397.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel: NZD 2,026.30
• Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD): NZD 2,914.60

With the updated fuel prices, the 2008 Corolla Diesel remains the most cost-effective option for city driving, and the Delica Space Gear is on par with the Foresters in overall running costs. Let me know if you'd like to factor in more details like maintenance or insurance!

I wouldn't want anything smaller than a 1.8 liter, personally. do you think this is accurate?

I can remember seeing cars up on bricks years ago with the wheels stolen but now, it appears people just steal the car. So, is it worth having locking wheel nuts?

My 25 year old Toyota Camry (low mileage) won't start. The alternator was replaced in Jan. '25. The battery was recharged at that time. Question: do I take it back to the garage that installed the alternator or to a Toyota dealer?​

I bought a car on finance with big motoring world fengate roughly 6 months ago, test drove at big motoring world and i pointed out 3 issues to them:

1. The shuddering in 1st gear (which they said is normal on audi diesels) I later found out with the healthcheck that its normal on Audi Q3's but not on Q2's.  I'm not getting quoted £940 to investigate with a likely £3000 repair bill after diagnosis for an issue I was told wasnt an issue when buying.

2. The windscreen wash wasnt coming out (they said that it just needs refilling or new wipers) but its actually blocked and needs unblocking which costs x amount

3. Theres a slow puncture on one of the tyres that I pointed out multiple times on the day, spoke to manager who discussed with the on site mechanic who all assured that it wasnt a slow puncture and there was no issue, but ever since that same tyre has been constantly deflating at a far higher rate than the other 3.  Often going from 40psi to 20 within a couple weeks.

All 3 of these issues were raised at time of purchase, all 3 issues I was told wasnt nothing.

After getting a health check by Audi under the warranty plan I purchased with them, I've been told by practically everyone working there that I've purposely been sold a dud car and have been royally screwed over and should immediately contact my finance company as theres no way big motoring world were not aware of all of these issues, and their seriousness when they sold it to me. The total estimated repair cost is going to be between £5000-£6000.

Any advice? Or anyone who can share a similar experience?

This is on the front of the car. Somebody was backing way too fast perpendicular to me and just nicked this line in front. I have their info, I don’t want to involve the insurance because it’ll be way more expensive, but I kinda want to have this fixed. What are my options?

Hit a curb with the driver side front wheel going about 20-30 km/h downhill on snow. Rim is cracked but tire still holds air. Car drives okay but I’m worried about hidden damage, maybe tie rod, control arm, or something else. First pic is the passenger side (didn’t hit), second is the driver side (hit the curb). Do you notice anything bent or off between them?

Hello guys, I recently bought a mazda 3 bk 2006. Car runs great and looks great but it has check engine light on because of Eolys Fluid Tank which is empty. The car had the dpf removed and then remapped so it runs great, no smoke, clean pipe. I deleted the error, light turned off, but when I filled the tank it got back. SO my question is " That to do with engine light, fill the tank with eolys even that i don't have dpf, or fill it with disel because i read the this additive goes in fuel system...". THANK YOU!!

so recently my (Subaru forester 2010) has been making really weird noises, I put them off until eventually it started making a really loud banging/rattling & squeaking noise. And the next day started smoking from the engine, So I took it to a mechanic shop and they fixed/replaced my timing belt, water pump, engine thermostat but the next day my car now is still making the same clicking noise and the belt is doing this again, is this normal? Any help or advice is appreciated!!!

Been on the hunt for a good Bluetooth FM transmitter for a while now. I’ve used a couple in the past, but most of them were pretty disappointing. I had a Mpow one and it was just awful. The sound quality was crap, kept disconnecting, and the signal was weak.

My budget is around $30-$60. I’ve been eyeing Anker and Nulaxy transmitters—both seem to have solid reviews, but I’d love to hear from anyone who’s actually used them. I’m just tired of fiddling with these cheap ones that give me more headaches than they’re worth.

Let me know what you think—what’s been your experience?

I made an awful mistake of buying a total rust bucket that won’t pass inspection due to frame rot. The first mechanic I took it to says not fixable and the car needs to be scrapped. I got a second opinion and he says he can weld 1/4” steel to replace the rotted area and that the shop next door will pass it. But will it be safe to drive for another year while I save up to buy another car? I am located in Pennsylvania and would need to pass local safety inspection.

First 2 pics are my car in its current condition, all other photos are before/after of a ford escape he did earlier in the year. I haven’t gotten the quote for repairs yet but he says it’ll be cheaper than buying a new car.

What are your thoughts? Pls don’t give me shit for buying this POS, I come from the west where rust isn’t an issue and the scumbag that sold me the car told me all cars in the northeast have rust 😭 I didn’t see the fist sized hole in the frame until I tried to get my stickers.

We just purchased this car less than two weeks ago. Didn’t notice anything during the test drive. We live an hour and a half from the dealer. The next morning, I took it for a drive and started noticing some rattles on the car hit certain road types that created the right vibration. Also driving over the road bumps/reflectors will cause the sound. It sounds like something is rattling like wild under the dash or towards the passenger door. Some rattling in the cargo area as well. But it’s most prominent up front. I’ve included a video.

We took the car back to the dealer because they said they would look at it and try to fix any issue. They’re claiming they can’t hear anything when they drive the car. They said all they hear is normal rattling sounds in a Honda vehicle. I’ve had many Hondas, and I know this is not normal. I even had a 2018. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? We’re driving back out there tomorrow morning to do a drive with them so we can help them hear the noise.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

The noise begins around 25 seconds into the video.

Clearcoat Failure or Paint Failure?

Looking to purchase a vehicle and want to get opinions on if this is just the clear coat failing or a total respray.

Affected areas are hood, roof, and trunk.

Car is a 2007 Acura TL. Seller claims he got a quote of $1,200 to fix.

Picture links:

https://ibb.co/tTWYJb7s https://ibb.co/wrKC1vj9

Any insight you have would be great!

Disregard the tag… my grandmother passed away last year and I have her car at my house. What is a reputable company that can help me transfer the title to me so I can legally drive it after fixing it?

Title says it all :( I (28F living in South Carolina) wanted to post here, in a forum where car people talk and offer advice. I apologize for the long-winded and scattered note that I'm about to type:

Basically, I spent 1.3K getting my front struts, front ball joints replaced, a couple of other things too. I drove the car home (~6 miles). The next morning, less than two miles from my house, the ball joint fell out, and I struggled to control the car - I was going the speed limit, 60mph, on a two-lane country highway. The wheels were pointing in different directions, and I slid off the road (thank god there wasn't another car nearby) and into a ditch.

The first person I called was the mechanic - there seemed to be a clear cause and effect here as my car never had any issues before this exact moment. He said he could call his tow guy but when I asked how much it would cost (hinting at the fact this whole accident seemed DIRECTLY related to their repair work), he said "he wasn't sure." I went through AAA instead, spending ~$300 to pull the car out of the ditch. My husband, myself, and two separate tow truck drivers struggled for ~3.5 hours to get the car out and get to the mechanic. I should have insisted the mechanic pay the tow company on the spot, but I was so flustered, and my adrenaline was high (I had never felt anything like that, crashing into a ditch at 60mph)... so I just paid the tow company, and we left the car with the mechanic. He apologized and said they wanted to make it right.

A few days later, I called back to check on the car, and he told me that the car had been ready. I was surprised they didn't reach out to me directly, but I went and picked it up. They did not charge me for any of the repairs but I pressed about getting refunded for the towing, at the very least. The mechanic agreed that I shouldn't have to pay the cost. He said the issue was a faulty ball joint from the autoparts manufacturer. I don't know much about cars, but I had a hard time understanding this because they still placed the joint, even if it was faulty. In summary, the mechanic said that the fault was on the autoparts manufacturer, and he was awaiting their reimbursement...

Once I got the car back, my family/friends insisted I take the car to a new mechanic. A second set of eyes is always appreciated, so I took it to a local mechanic trusted by my dad. This mechanic said that I should never go back to the original, as the new ball joints were also improperly placed: they were loose, the pin was off (?), and the nuts on the two joints were different sizes when they need to be symmetrical.

I paid this new mechanic a few hundred dollars yesterday: he replaced the ball joints and a few other underlying issues. The whole fiasco has been insanely expensive... I could have saved money and shopped around for the best price (i only called two other shops for quotes), maybe even got some of the parts myself, but at this point I was distressed about not having the car - my husband has a work truck, so my Subaru is our main transport.

The new mechanic gave me some advice about approaching the old mechanic: I need to get his shop insurance and obviously continue to be persistent about getting my money back for the towing... and hopefully more. They said I should be reimbursed for the old, faulty ball joint repair AND the cost of the new repair... so a few hundred on top of the $300 for towing.

The old mechanic is a good person, and I'm actually so sad this happened because my husband and I adore him - I'd been going to them for a while and watched them help a lot of people in our rural community. But I am struggling with the cost, and I don't want to sink several hundred dollars for an issue that was not my fault. Does anyone have advice? My plan is to (1) as for the shops insurance and (2) (Edit CONTINUE*** to be persistent) be persistant about getting updates or just being paid by the shop, up front, for the cost of the towing... and maybe even ask for reimbursement for the original, faulty ball joint. Thank you in advance and thank you for coming to my sad Ted Talk.

I apologize that I don't have videos on hand.

Recently, my engine (2015 Ford Fiesta) has been sputtering from 0-35mph, and during that I can see the RPMs spiking up to 3 or 4,000. Once it hits 40mph it seems to be okay, but that initial acceleration and driving in residential areas is really rough. I can feel some kind of chugging and regular vibration through the gas petal and the whole car chassis, honestly, even when I get to over 40mph. The whole car gets so loud it's almost like I'm on an airplane.

I had an inspection two weeks ago, and they replaced the serpentine belt to make sure that wasn't the issue. It sounded like they were going to lift the engine out of the car to investigate further, and I know that's reaching big $$$ territory. Everything I've read so far suggests it might be a transmission issue. The inspection itself already cleaned me out so I'm hoping to get any insight y'all might have, at least so I know what to expect when I take it in.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

I might buy a car tomorrow, and I’m wondering what I should do for the bill of sale. I’m going to be buying it, but I’m going to register it in my mom’s name (long story). One thing to add is that I’m making this transaction in a different state than the one that it’ll get registered in. So, should I:

A) use my name for the bill of sale and just hope the dmv won’t care when I try to register it in her name

B) use her name for the bill of sale even though I’m the one technically making the transaction

C) use my name for the bill of sale, then make up another bill of sale so I “sell the car” to her and make it in her name.

Or do bills of sale even matter that much. Just wanted to hear what you think.