It's smooth metal. Spins freely. Felt slightly warm but not hot when picked up.

Was trying to replace the alternator on my girlfriend's 2005 Subaru Outback. As I'm watching videos Ive notice none of the videos have the same alternator/ belt layout as her vehicle. It's hard to remove the belt and I can't find any videos. In a desperate attempt loosen the belt, l idiotically loosened a nut I think it was antifreeze) and got a face full of green. I really need this car running by the end of the night. I also need to address the antifreeze line. The nut blew away from the explosion. Any help or tips would be great. Thanks

100,188 miles / 37.3 hours = ~2682 miles per hour

Looking at this 2018 Ford Transit and this seems like a major discrepancy.

I can replace the mechanical components of the car and make it look decent. Can anyone tell me if it’s even worth doing ?

I can replace the mechanical components of the car and make it look decent. Can anyone tell me if it’s even worth doing ?

I’m replacing a camshaft in my 2021 Jeep and am wondering if these can be reused. The 4th follower is the worst one and the caps have slight wear lines.

Cylinder #1 was misfiring and my mechanic sent me these pictures. He said exhaust valves are bad. Do you agree?

I was hearing rattling noise when going over potholes or over 60mph, was first told to change the steering shaft, that didn't solve it, later was found that it was broken steering motor damper and changed that.

But right after changing the steering shaft hearing this thudding noise while slightly turning the wheels, and same noise can be heard going over 65mph or over potholes. Not the same as broken motor damper rattling noise.

Could it be that the steering shaft was not installed properly? or something else entirely. Shop told me they cant find the issue, will charge me 300$ to open everything up and check inside.

To add more: Can feel the vibration through the brake pedals when the thudding noise is happening while slightly turning the wheel side to side. Higher amount of vibration can be felt when going over 70mph, than before, through the steering wheel and brake pedal.

Also after stopping at a stop sign, when the car start rolling again, the steering makes a clanking/clocking noise. The shop supposedly checked all steering components, from sway bar to tie rods and everything, all looked ok to them.

It's a 2014 Camry LE with 2.4L engine.

Hi all, My budget's pretty tight and I need a car going to work that's 10 minutes away when driving but it's a 45-min walk. I saw this toyota tercel in markeplace for 3500CAD. I was wondering if what are the things i should check. I'm bringing my buddy with me who's good at checking cars but would just like to know your opinion if it's worth 3500CAD. He's saying new breaks and new batteries.

I drive a Volkswagen Jetta 2015 and have been experiencing issues with what I am thinking might be my crank sensor? This has been a month long ordeal, so I apologize in advance for the lengthy explanation. I don’t know much about cars, so please bear with me.

So about a month ago now, my car has been having issues with starting but in random intervals. It’s not a battery issue as the car turns on and there is no clicking when I turn the keys. When it first started, it happened 3 times in one week. Naturally, I would jump start it to try to get it to work, but it wouldn’t work until after the cables were disconnected. I eventually took it to an auto-shop and all they did was clean corrosion off my battery. They said that the car worked fine for every test they ran, so they concluded that the issue was due to the corroded battery. It’s important to note that the car was not dead when I brought it in (more on this later).

Everything was working fine for a week and then it randomly died again after a 2 hour shift at work. I contacted the same auto-shop who said they could take a look at it again but then after 15 minutes or so, it started working again. I didn’t even jump the car, I just randomly tried the engine again and it worked. I still took it to the shop and they ran a bunch of tests and said that the car was working fine. They kept it over night and did a cold start in the morning, still nothing. They told me that it could be an intermittent issue and that the car would need to be dead in order for them to make a diagnosis. I asked them if I needed a new battery and they said that my battery is performing fine. So it is 100% not a battery issue.

Once again, all was well for exactly one week until the same issue occurred after work AGAIN. I took a video to sent to the guys at the auto shop, as I literally could not explain the sound the car was making to them. I have included the video in this post. I wound up asking a different auto-shop across the street from my work to take a look this time. I figured it would be the easiest way to get someone to look at it while it’s dead. They kindly checked my car on the spot and got it working again and ran some tests. I don’t know if they jumped it or if it just started on its own again. They ruled out a few possible issues such as the fuel pump and I think the ignition? The guy told me that it was possibly the crank sensor but I would need to bring in my car to them dead, as they would need to run some tests. The original auto-shop also postulated that it could be a crank sensor issue or faulty relay, based on the video I sent them.

So now it’s been about 2 weeks since this incident, and I am now stranded in a mall parking lot on a Sunday. I’ve been waiting it out, hoping that it will start again with time, as I don’t have any cables on me (I really should). I am hesitant to call a tow-truck because it takes a long time and no auto-shop is open, so I can’t contact them to let them know my car is being dropped off. Plus, I figure the car will eventually just start on its own, so it will just end up working as normal once the towing company gets here or once it gets to the shop.

Right now, when I turn the keys in the ignition, the electrical stuff works as normal. It’s just the engine that won’t crank over. My EPC, battery, and engine light are on. I’m really at a loss for what I should do. It feels like getting my car to a shop not working is impossible. I also have limitations on how far I can get my car towed because my licence and auto insurance is from a different province (Canadian), as I only live here for school.

I don’t really know what I’m trying to get out of this. I’m not skilled with cars or have the tools to do any fixes on my own. Nor do I know anyone who is. I guess I’m wondering if this really is a crank sensor issue and if there is a way to determine this without having to bring my car to a shop not working. It’s just so annoying because when the car is working, no issues can be found.

Any advice or thoughts on the matter are appreciated. Happy to share more info if needed! Thank you 🫶

Looking to replace them but I actually don't know what they are actually called lol not the best photos but it's like a cone shape with rings inside. Like a baffled system. 350 SBC, metric chassis 1980s ish

When I got in my car I noticed this on the floor

2013 Nissan Altima. I found the issue the techs found. A decent tear in the boot. My question is, how big of an issue is this? Is this a.. I need to fix it tomorrow thing or is it a.. you can wait a week.

Reason I ask is because I need to order the part but I should be able to get it Monday I think... Also this is out of my wheelhouse. I’ve done a good bit of repairs on my vehicles but just trying to get all the info I can.

Also what is the other boot behind it go to? I think the liquid on it is from the CV but still good to know what everything is.

Another thing. Can I buy just a new boot or should I just go ahead and replace the whole thing since it’s been throwing grease?

Okay, the title says most of it... My car (2009 base Mini Cooper) has been running a little bit weird (definitely misfiring), and the check engine light has been coming on periodically. I took it to a shop that was recommended to me by a friend and this was the estimate they gave. I don't know that much about cars, but I know that almost $500 for four spark plugs is ridiculous. I do need this car to go to work (once a week, 20 miles there and back), but am not in the market to buy a new car. (I walk or take the bus basically everywhere else.)

Also for context, they give a 3-year, 36,000 mile warranty so maybe I need the nicest spark plugs ever to meet that standard??

Would someone be able to give a reasonable suggestion for which of these things are reasonable, and how to negotiate the things that are priced unreasonably?

Hi!

Long story short, my axle snapped in half, I replaced it in the parking lot of my dorm. I've lost around 500 ml (17 oz), or maybe little more of transmission fluid. Drove it around a little, it goes nicely into gears and it doesn't do any weird sounds, no whining or anything. The car in fact is the Europe model Honda Civic, that requires around 2l (68 oz) of transmission fluid in total.

I'm a student and I bought the transmission fluid having it delivered to my house, ~200 km (125 miles) away. Is it safe to drive it as it is for the following week, as well as my trip home in the weekend?

Thanks!

I have a case or so of Amsoil Signature Series 0-30 that has been sitting in my garage for the past 8 years or so. (My car takes 0-20w).

Is that oil good to use, or should I recycle it?

I recently had an issue where while idling/parked, my car would stall it seems and the dash would show lights for the following:

battery check engine oil change EPS

If in park, when shifting to drive the car will not move and the only thing that works is restarting.

I went to autozone to get a battery test and it failed.

How should I interpret this paper they printed out for me?

As of now I am still able to start my car and google says the CCA of 600 is good so I’m a little confused.

Is the issue really with my alternator?

I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra

Regeared a Dana 30 last night and measured backlash at .007, spec is .006 - .010, got up today and I think it's a good wear pattern, just want advice from people that have more experience than I do (which is just this one diff)

Looks good heel to toe, just can't decide if I like where it sits root to crown, any advice?

Vehicle is an 09 jeep wrangler JK that acts up if you talk shit to it

First picture is drive side, second is coast, it's not backwards, they're just reverse cut gears

Replaced bearing and I'm right I'm assuming after the axle is installed the preload from it will be fine right?

Was driving and smell of diesel was inside of the car, when i got home i saw it was leaking,front part of car, its mercedes w202