Was going 80mph on the freeway today when I heard a loud clank, 4 mins later whole left side of car just falls down and scrapes the floor. Thankfully I was able to pull over safely.

Mechanic said I need a new ball joint, brakes (whole package), and maybe control arm.

How much does a repair like this cost? 2008 Honda accord btw

Turned truck off to get RX came back and started it with the heat left in the on position then smoke came out of air vents, turned it off and on again and it didn’t happen so I drove it home with no issues. Any ideas? And can I drive it to work tmmrw

It says to put it in the coolant when engine is cold and then start and let the engine run for a couple of minutes until warm. Shut off and wait until cool again. Then its done.

(2010 Honda accord)I don’t know what the hell is going on with my car, I’ve never seen anything like it. But for the second time the inside floor is completely flooded from half an inch of rain. Water didn’t even reach an inch up the wheel. Seats and dash are completely dry as well. Thank you for any help.

I did the unmentionable. I ran my 2010 Subaru Forester out of oil. After driving on a cracked head gasket for 3 years, it was only a matter of time.

Now, my options are to get a new vehicle or replace the engine. In my simple mind, it seems like getting a brand new engine for $8,500 seems more reasonable than getting a car with 80,000 + miles on it for $10,000+.

I just redid my brakes and got new t*res this week before I ran her dry. Any and all I put is welcome.

immediately pulled over and had it towed home. Ordered new mount. Hoping the cv axel is only damaged on the boot. Any tips for rethreading the bolt holes on the transmission?

I have a 1967 Wolseley 16 60 with a BMC b series 1622cc engine. fitted with twin Hs2 Su carbs. I have been using the car daily for almost 3 years. I'm pretty skilled with cars and have gotten multiple non runners to start again. But I'm baffled

It recently was running perfectly the one morning then the next morning it had a failed condenser, and it burned the points. I replaced both and had good strong spark. The engine was still running rough, so I drove home to look at it there. It simply didn't start again. I've checked everything from timing, distributor and rotor orientation, there is definitely spark but a little weak. At this point I tested and found the ignition coil was failing, so I replaced that. Still nothing. I then completely serviced the carbs, and reinstalled them and made sure there is no vacuum leak, but didn't find gunk and rust in the floats. Cleaned those and installed a new filter. Fuel coming out is clean now.

I check all 4 cylinders, there is compression on each of them. But for some reason the sparkplugs are dry after attempting to start, as if no fuel is entering the cylinders. The carburetors, however, have fuel inside and around the jets, meaning there was vacuum to draw out fuel. I then assumed maybe the timing chain slipped, but found that with the engine on top dead center, the no 1 valves are both closed.

There is still spark, compression, and fuel to the carburetors but it won't go, not even with quick start. Any ideas?

Was driving and there was a pop and a hiss sound, red light came on and lost power would only go up to 2000rpm. Pulled over to find this! Popped it back in (it’s very loose) and gingerly drove back with power back but engine light still on until I can get it to the garage, there’s oil everywhere 🤦‍♀️

2017 Mitsubishi Lancer Sportback non Turbo 6speed Manual. Hey, I had my Car for About 4 years now and now it starter making These noises at about 2.000rpm. Oil and transmission is healthy and works good, Performance is good buy this Noise is Killing me. You can Hear it really good when I put my phone down.

Wondering if any mechanics can help me with this quote I received today. Is this a standard and good price for a Jeep Grand Cherokee (Laredo) work or is it a bit steep? I’m planning to get second opinions from two other mechanics but while I wait thought it’d reach out to the Reddit Community

I drive a 2012 VW TDi diesel. Recently (about a month ago) had some work done, including a new blower since the last one just stopped working altogether.

Anyway, i started her up this morning and ran inside while she warmed up, gone maybe 10 mins tops. Come back out and open door to see this little hole shooting flames. Just left of my clutch on driver side. I’m guessing its a wiring issue but i put out the fire & turned off the car.

Any ideas on what might’ve caused this and/or is it safe for me to drive down to shop?

today i was driving just like always and my car worked just fine (kia spectra 2005 LX) I started hearing a slight ticking noice, first i thought it was other cars but it was mine, it aggravated when i accelerated and when i was in idle it was a very rough idle, i was just running an errand so i figured i would just see it when i got home, on my way back the car just died on a red light and i couldn’t start it again, i could start it but it would run a bit and then die again so i pushed it to a parking lot and had it towed, i saw my oil was low so i filled it up a bit to see if that helped but it was still the same it wouldn’t run, i did see that it didn’t seem milky from the engine oil check thing so i don’t think it’s a blown head gasket as i also didn’t see any smoke coming from my car, i ran an OBD and see the codes P0300, P0301, P0302 wich are for the cylinders 1 and 2, it makes sense that it won’t run on 2 cylinders only but now my question is, what do you think it could be? the ignition coil going bad, low compression or something else? i don’t think is the spark plugs or the fuel injectors as i changed those last year, thanks for any help

I started auto tech school 2 weeks ago and I’m passed the trial period.I am 27yr. I’ve had a number of different jobs and to this day I never found one that I felt was my true calling. Currently I have the highest paying job I’ve had (27/hr) as a delivery driver for a local high end dry cleaning delivery driver. The money is good and I can support my wife and my newborn son (with the help of my wife) but I started mechanic school because I am mechanically inclined and it’s my only hobby. I’ve done so many side jobs and helped so many people, I can honestly say it’s the only job I could see myself doing forever. Because of that passion I started school at my local trade school. It wasn’t till today that I found out that when I graduated I have no choice but to take a $10/hr pay cut starting as a lube tech till I work my way up . I’m super discouraged. I did a ton of research just to find that everyone says I’m getting ripped off. I don’t know what to do. I’m officially 30k in debt. Any tips?

I drive a VW Golf Mk6 - 2009. I recently had it checked by a mechanic, and they didn’t find any issues with the suspension. However, I've recently noticed that when I go over larger speed bumps, there's an unpleasant squeaking noise. Has anyone experienced something similar? I don’t notice any issues while driving, and the car handles just fine. Video attached.

I have a 1992 Nissan 300zx with regular plates. I have heard a lot of info that cars 25 years or older are able to avoid emissions testing. Is this just for antique plates or can I install these no matter antique plates or not?

Year: 2001 model: Mercedes Clk 200 kompressor cabriolet (A208) engine: M 111.956 1998 cm³ 163HP

Hi everyone, my car does this strange noise that I'll call the "crrrr". As you can see in the video I made, my car does a first "crrr" when I press the throttle and then another "crrr" when I release the throttle, no matter if I'm in neutral or not. I don't loose power when I hear this noise, but I'm worried about it

Has anyone ever heard this sound?

Sorry if my English isn't perfect, if anything isn't clear or you need more info please ask.

Thanks

Hey guys, sorry if this is a stupid problem. Recently, my front left brake in particular has been making a screeching noise that sounds like a train. I drive a 2007 Honda Jazz and it was last serviced in mid February. From what I’ve been able to see there is around maybe 5-7mm of brake padding left. Along with this, it makes an awful dull groaning kinda noise when I brake harder, especially when going downhill. I have more photos/videos that I can upload of necessary. Any help is appreciated!

As the title states. I'm kind of in a pinch but. Did this pass or fail?

This is a cleaned OE original one since the cheap $8 one I bought off Amazon I'm not sure if that rattles at all.

Got a new ac condenser and clutch about six months ago. Was still cycling on and off every few seconds when stopped or idle. Brought it back to the place said refrigerant leak so I got a new hose for it and guess what still clicks. Brought it up again and they couldn’t replicate it at the time and said bring it back up again when it does. It cycles on and off every about 20 seconds when stopped and then clicks on about 10-15 seconds later compared to the 2-3 seconds before the new hose.

My question is why the ac condenser or clutch not properly installed or should I demand a brand new compressor and clutch since something might be wrong with those or could it be something further that they are not seeing.

Hey everyone, I could really use some help or advice here.

I drive a 2011 Nissan Wingroad (automatic, CVT) and over the past two months, I’ve changed the transmission four times — all used units — and I’m still running into transmission issues, mainly the P0705 “Transmission Range Sensor A” code.

Here’s a breakdown of what’s happening: • The car jerks when shifting into certain gears like Drive. • After driving for a few minutes, the gear indicator on the dashboard goes blank, and the car loses power — especially noticeable when going uphill. • It doesn’t seem to have enough power to climb hills properly once that happens. • This issue has been consistent across all four transmissions, and they all came with their own range sensors. • I also got a P0744 code on one of the transmissions. • The first transmission had the same P0705 code and would shake violently when going uphill or driving on low-traction surfaces. • The mechanic (local, not dealership) who installed them all suggested I now check the transmission control module (TCM). • Nothing else has been changed — not the wiring, shifter mechanism, connectors, or control modules. • All transmissions were used, sourced locally.

I’m getting frustrated because the sensor has been replaced multiple times via the replacement transmissions, and the issue just keeps coming back. Could this be an electrical issue, a TCM problem, or something else entirely?

I’d appreciate any help — suggestions, things to check, or similar experiences.

Thanks in advance!

Was quoted to get front control arms, new bushings, with engines, and lower ball joints for my 2014 Subaru Crosstrek. They took photos, but not entirely sure what i am looking at. any advice ?

Hello, Started out just replacing the head gasket on my E70 30sd (M57). Pulled the head, then figured “eh might as well do the timing chain.” Fast forward: turbo, exhaust, oil filter housing, heater core — all off.

Then boom — front timing cover won’t come off without dropping the oil pan. So now I’m yanking the whole engine. And since the trans is acting up too… guess I’m doing that next.

Got a pit and a forklift. Planning to:

Drop the trans into the pit and move the car off it

Then pull the engine from the top

Questions:

1. What exactly do I need to remove underneath to get the engine out cleanly?

2. Where to hook chains to lift safely?

3. Easier to pull engine+trans together or separate?

4. Any gotchas I should know about?

Trying to avoid removing the whole front end unless really needed. Any advice appreciated before I lose my last brain cell.