In the market for a new car and have been to many dealers this week. All the dealers I’ve been to, I’ve tried my best to negotiate on the price of the vehicle but that made me wonder if I’m an A*shole for doing this? Do other people bargain too?

This is my first car and I’ve only ever seen my dad doing this before.

Went to a Toyota dealer the other day to check out a used Lexus they had for sale. The cars tires were bald and cracked, the car had dog hair all over it, windshield wipers were trashed. It’s been on the lot for a month, they keep dropping the price. This is a ~50k car, why not even try? Just something that ended up in trade and they’ll auction it off in another 15 days? Will dealers go way down on something like this?

So I am considering financing a new Mazda CX 30 (base model, no frills or extras.) Price after dealer discount and before taxes/fees is $25,565. They have an offer going on for the month of April for 2.9% APR for 60 months, but I know it will only be available for the most qualified folks with excellent credit (the fine print specified 780+.) I also have never had a car loan.

The FICO Scorecard feature on my Discover and Amex CC apps showed 777 Transunion and 788 Experian. Both FICO Score 8.

Currently have 7 cards, oldest account is 14 years old, newest is two months, total combined credit limit is about 85k. I use my cards for everything except rent. Utilization is at 4%, no missed payments, and always pay statement balances to avoid interest. I have never had any other loans so I don't know if this would be considered a "thin file." 

I'm self employed, monthly income fluctuates but I made 58k gross last year and project similar for this year.

I can put $5500 down.

With all of this considered, do I have any realistic chance of getting approved for their 2.9% promo? If I don't qualify, is it possible they'd still offer something reasonably low like 4%? Sorry if that's naive, I don't know how this process works or what to expect. Also, do you think I will need to provide proof of income (and would my 2024 tax return suffice? I had a slower start this year due to injuries preventing work, so recent bank statements would not accurately represent future higher income.) Just wondering how prepared I should be.

I don’t really know where to post this or what to do but I need some advice. I sold my old Toyota Corolla in November because I wanted a car that was a little nicer, a little faster. I told my ex (who is super into cars) what I was looking for and he helped me pick out a 2015 Lexus RC350 F. I paid the car off completely and was really happy and proud of myself. I LOVED this car. Like seriously loved it.

I wasn’t sure how to buy an auto insurance policy that would be comprehensive but still not outrageous. I told the Statefarm salesman that I didn’t know a thing about car insurance, how much it was supposed to cost, what people generally purchase, etc. but that I wanted comprehensive coverage on my car (I’ve heard people say this) so that I would be covered in the event of an accident and that I was concerned about the cost.

(I also asked my dad for help several times and he was unable to help me. I’m not sure why he wouldn’t tell me how to buy insurance but he didn’t.)

My car insurance came out to be $170/mo, a little more than my Corolla, and I was fine with that.

Almost a month ago now, I rear ended someone on the highway. I reached out to my insurance, thinking I was going to pay a probably pretty high deductible and for a rental while my car is in the shop.

They told me I don’t have a deductible because I don’t have any collision insurance on my vehicle, only on other vehicles. The repairs to my car cost $9000. I do not have $9000. To top things off, I had other emergency last minute expenses this month because my roommate moved out last minute and did not replace herself.

I was going to sell the car and take the loss and buy a bucket but my aunt told me she would help pay for some of the repairs. I was so thankful, authorized the repairs, and put down a $2000 deposit. My aunt backed out.

I have truly no money left. What the fuck do I do? A few people have told me to contact an attorney and try and pursue damages from Satefarm.

Also, I know I’m an idiot for not purchasing collision insurance. Please don’t rub salt in the wound I already want to kill myself

I work at a dealership where the minimum sales requirement is eight cars per month—essentially two cars per week, which is generally very achievable. However, we have one salesperson who consistently fails to meet this standard, month after month. It’s led me to wonder whether they’re being kept on staff intentionally, perhaps to undermine or “sandbag” others who are close to hitting their bonus goals.

Am I overthinking this, or has anyone else experienced something similar? I’d really appreciate your thoughts.

Hi All, I'm looking to buy a used 2024 MK8 GTI 380 Autobahn (Canadian model) with 15,000 km's (9000 miles., Car fax shows one owner, no accident, with a first service at 9700 km (6000 miles) and another at 12500 km (7700 miles) miles for an oil change.

It's my number one choice in colour that I want, I went to see the car and it looks and drives great. I feel the price is somewhat high but they will probably come down a bit.

The car is being sold at an Audi dealership, my question ultimately is the following, is it reasonable to buy a car from an off brand dealer rather than a VW dealer? This Audi dealer is reputable as far as I know and is a part of a larger automotive group.

I recently purchased a car 4-5 weeks ago and have been trying to set up a payment method through my credit union. When I speak to the credit union they say I don’t have an account with them and talk to the dealer. I talk to the dealer and they say they can’t do anything and to talk to my credit union (that they gave me). Literally have no idea what to do and don’t want to get late fees or repoed??

It’s a legit dealer with tons of stores all over the country and a large credit union too.

Hello M(25) In New York, I need some advice! I am looking to finance a vehicle, I have $3500 saved up for a down payment and my old truck to trade in as well that they should get around $1000. In the end $4500 down. My significant other is going to co-sign for me seeing she has 772 credit, and mine is lower 600s. My issue is I work a tip based job. I make $600 a week in direct deposit, and another $600 on average in tips totaling out to $1200 a week. I will only have proof of the $600/week. Im looking to finance a car around $18,000-20,000, does anyone know if it will be possible. Thank you I’m advance, and any advice will be greatly appreciated!

I bought a 2010 2.4L RWD Tacoma with 84k miles from an old man for a good deal. Great maintenance record. But it’ll take 5k to get it looking the way I want. I feel like this would be a no brainer on a V6, but I’m concerned investing in something with limited power for towing, or off-roading. I understand the reliability of the truck, but is it worth spending the time and money on a 4 cylinder Tacoma?

2021 Range rover velar CPO 24K miles. 37k$ MSRP. Is it worth it?

Dealer says 3k for additional one year warranty after Cpo warranty expires. Should I consider this?

Seems pretty reactive but hopefully not a sign of things to come.

I paid off my vehicle on 3/15, I traded on 4/1 before the certificate of title was mailed. They accepted all my payoff proof and we filled out a bill of sale. The certificate of title came in over the weekend. I’ll be returning the necessary paperwork on trade for the paperwork on the purchased vehicle to apply for my tag.

I am unclear if this certificate is all I need to return for the exchange or if I’m supposed to be going to the DMV for any reason prior. Thoughts?

I'm an out of state buyer (6 states away) and spent all day yesterday negotiating with the dealer remotely for a low milage great condition certified used vehicle. After finally agreeing on a OTD price they told me they can't take a deposit on used vehicles because they've "been burned before" by people making deposits, not picking up the vehicles, and then disputing the charge with their bank. They're asking me to get there asap and it will take me at least a few days to get insurance, time off of work, and the cash in hand. Is there anything I can do/say/offer that I'm not aware of to work around this and ensure the vehicle is reserved in my name in the meantime? First time buying a vehicle on my own so I don't know what I don't know :) TYIA

I’ve worked for Hyundai for the last 10 years 7 as a salesperson did 16-25 cars consistently every month with around 15-20 of those being new so the Hyundai spins were good. The last year and a half I was a sales manager and got pushed out when one department in the CDJR store closed and the manager there with more tenure was stuck in my job and they were going to reposition me to BDC sales manager. I got into banking but I’m only making $25 an hour.

I just worry about getting back into sales with the tariffs because I fear I won’t make the same money. Am I worrying over nothing? Or is this valid?

I am about to purchase a RAV4. Contacted a few dealerships and a few got back to me with a price. Gave my card info to one dealer to put a deposit on one that I liked at a price I liked. But oddly enough they didn't charge me, she said they don't charge me until it gets to the lot or something. Kind of confused on the details. So I was supposed to get a call from the salesman. He called but didn't go over anything regarding the new car I was looking at he just asked me if I wanted a different one since it would be there earlier. I said no thank you. Long story short I sent out another email and said is this car mine do I need to do anything else. She said no and assured me it's reserved for me. Do I believe this? Ime really nervous bc there was no deposit and no signing anything. Is this a sales tactic like they are going to actually sell it to someone else for a higher price if it comes along? I really want to make sure I am locked in here. I want this car and I am waiting a month and a half for it. Some dealers are already adding 2k over MSRP on my area and this is what I'm trying to avoid. How do I ensure this car is going to be mine and they don't end up selling it to another person? Thank you

I have seen people on here comment that people who don't "do the research" and know how much and how to negotiate for a car are "stupid." However, that's absurd to me. I have attempted to do the research, but it's not my forte and it's not clear what the fair price for the car would/could be, and to an outsider/non-expert, it's not clear how much/which of the dealer's fees can be negotiated. What's more, negotiation in the face of manipulation is a skill, and not everyone has it (and I don't mind that I don't have that particular skill). As a woman standing there at the dealership, I also feel I am more of a target that they think they can manipulate. I was thinking of hiring someone for $495 to negotiate for me, but I'm reading on here that the idea that he will really be able to help me is a farce. Can anyone please give me some supportive, non-judgmental help? I have gone to two Lexus dealerships so far and am certain I'm being manipulated and gaslit. Thank you.

Hi everyone, I wanted to try car sales, I'm currently making 125K a year working 60-70 hours a week in the rain, snow, fringed cold weather, I drive a car hauler delivering the cars to dealers, been doing this job for 10 years now, just tired of it, usually start at 2am till about 1pm less traffic this way, I get paid by the load usually make $400 a day some days more, not hourly pay, but honestly its terrible, Financially I have my home paid off, some retirement investments and about 100k for emergency fund, So I realize I will make much less but I'm okay with that, I have good people skills, I will talk to anyone, I have 12 years in the hospitality industry as well prior to being a driver, As far as work ethic I always give 100% I'm a hustler, I like to make money and maximize my pay regardless on what I'm doing for work, I understand dealer have different pay plans or scales, average work week is between 50-60 hours, Saturday a must, what else can you tell me about car sales, one thing I always wonder was say you have 10 sales associates, and 3 potential buyers walking the lot how does it work? a rotation, first come basics ? and the rest of the time is it usually following leads phone and emails etc. ? I know its probably not the best time to make a move likes, thank you for any information you can provide.

I'm taking about the type of buyer that due to circumstance, lack of confidence, impatience, or ignorance; will walk into a typical dealership, barely test drive a new vehicle if they do it at all, and purchase it at MSRP or whatever the dealer wants no questions asked.

Hopefully this is the right place as im looking to gain insight on my situation. NJ This past week I bought a used Acura. 2022. From a seemingly reputable dealership. Allegedly had new brakes and a “certification extended warranty until 100k”. The brakes were documented on the car fax sheet, and allegedly installed by their service department. By the time we finished the deal, it was late. 10pm ish. Next morning I take a look at brakes to find out that they in fact were not replaced. This was a major “selling point” for the salesman. The brakes are not in bad shape however it’s the principle. I call the salesman, he tells his boss, then he calls me. Basically tells me well we don’t have any money in this so I can’t give you new brakes but I can give you gift cards. So the service dept basically lied on the car fax and they charged me for it. Then I asked for my “warranty” paperwork because it was not in my copies. He emails the paperwork but it’s an unsigned document. I don’t remember signing it and I don’t have a copy. Tells me not to worry because it’s attached to the vin. So if i go to ANY dealership they can pull it up. Is this accurate? They’ve told me a few time I can bring the car back and originally I didn’t want to but now I feel like I getting taken on the warranty. Can anyone tell me from the managerial side if I’m being paranoid or if I have a reason to worry? Thank you in advance.

Hi,

It’s been a while since I’ve bought a car. If I were to get a Carmax offer that the dealership won’t match for my current car and I’m looking to buy a car from the dealership and use that carmax money for a down payment, I’m assuming I would negotiate the deal for the car that I’m looking to buy first before trading in my car to Carmax and get the negotiated deal in writing/email and then head to Carmax to trade in my car and then take an Uber back to the dealership with the check in hand from Carmax and then finish the deal with the dealership or what would the steps be/recommendation be for this process? Any risks that I need to be aware of? I would get a state tax benefit by trading in my car to the dealership but I wouldn’t want to leave any money on the table by not getting the extra money from Carmax.

Thank you

Went into the dealer today to test drive a 25 Civic hatchback hybrid. Loved the car but price was a little up and negotiated to about 34K via financing with discounts. They told me I could finance for 3 months and payoff the rest right away, that way I keep the discounted price and pay maybe like $100-150 interest for that 3 month period. They also mentioned that there's no negative to paying off early and that I won't be penalized in any way. Is this true?

We live in Texas and are looking at a car in Colorado. They put sales tax on the price sheet, when I asked about it, they sent me this “You are only paying TX taxes, which we pass through to them. CO only collects taxes on vehicles that will be garaged here.” Is that legit? If we bring the receipt back to register the car, is Texas going to go with that? We don’t want to get in a tough situation.

Hello, I have what is likely a dumb question but I can’t parse it out so thought I’d come here. I owe $7500 on my 2007 Lexus I bought used last year. It needs tires, brakes, calipers, rotors, the works AND now suddenly is having electrical/alarm issues that I cannot figure out. Has 85k miles, leather interior in great shape but some dings on the exterior, nothing too heavy. Would like to get out from under the cost of dumping thousands into fixing it. Would it be better to trade it in or sell it outright? Maybe take the cash offer from local dealers through Carfax or KBB? I’d lose some money but either way, it’s going to cost me. Any advice would be appreciated!

I have a 2016 renegade that was in an accident 04/24 so the vehicle has some back damage. I owe $3700 left on it but the suspension is going out and I was quoted $3300 just the fix it.

Rather then do that would trading it in be my best bet to move on to a new car? Even if I kept and paid it off I would not put in the money to fix it and I’d rather put the $3k repair cost toward a new car.

Any ideas at this point t would help!

Thinking about buying a car from a private seller and i carfaxed the car everything looks good but about 2 weeks ago it shows duplicate title, correction on record, and loan/lien reported.

They are the 2nd owner, but 1st owner had their loan/lien released. And when they bought it no loan/lien was reported till 2 weeks ago.(when they said the duplicate title was mailed to their current residence in Texas)

Car is from out of state(IL) but both states are non title holding states so they shouldn't have it unless its paid, right? And as long as the title is in their name correct?

So is it a safe buy?