I've used it on stuck car door locks, but is it ok for a key ignition that needs to be jiggled sometimes. I read online to "only use graphite lube" but then some other site said that it made it worse. I don't know what's in wd-40 dry lube.

Wasn't sure what flair to use so this one seemed the most accurate

What is the real oil level 1 or 2 ?

Hi there,

I'm a bit concerned about the cost of running my Delica Space gear. I love the van, but I want to tow the line between fun and sensible.

I've requested ChatGPT to show a comparison between the vehicles I'm interested in, I was quite shocked to see how expensive it is to run the Foresters.

Comparatively, the Delica isn't as bad as I thought. I do weekly fuel checks, and the Delica is accurate for me.

In my country, currently, Diesel is $1.89 but costs $76 per 1000km, and Petrol is $2.55

The Diesel Corolla is a great option, except I can only find it as a hatch, I kind of want a wagon that I can sleep in :)

I do 10,000km a year.

Let's update the calculations with petrol at NZD 2.55 per liter and diesel at NZD 1.89 per liter:

City-Only Annual Fuel Costs:

2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L:

• Fuel needed = (12.6 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,260 liters
• Annual cost = 1,260 × 2.55 = NZD 3,213.00

2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L:

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 2.55 = NZD 2,907.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L (Petrol):

• Fuel needed = (9.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 940 liters
• Annual cost = 940 × 2.55 = NZD 2,397.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel:

• Fuel needed = (6.7 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 670 liters
• Annual cost = 670 × 1.89 = NZD 1,266.30
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,026.30

Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD):

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 1.89 = NZD 2,154.60
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,914.60

Updated Comparison:

• 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L: NZD 3,213.00
• 2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L: NZD 2,907.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L: NZD 2,397.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel: NZD 2,026.30
• Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD): NZD 2,914.60

With the updated fuel prices, the 2008 Corolla Diesel remains the most cost-effective option for city driving, and the Delica Space Gear is on par with the Foresters in overall running costs. Let me know if you'd like to factor in more details like maintenance or insurance!

I wouldn't want anything smaller than a 1.8 liter, personally. do you think this is accurate?

I can remember seeing cars up on bricks years ago with the wheels stolen but now, it appears people just steal the car. So, is it worth having locking wheel nuts?

sorry for horrible video skills. this just started an hour or so ago, whenever i turn hard or make sharp movements this liquid comes out from under the glove box. Clear, watery, tastes soapy, but left my tongue feeling a tingly after a quick finger lick

I bought a car on finance with big motoring world fengate roughly 6 months ago, test drove at big motoring world and i pointed out 3 issues to them:

1. The shuddering in 1st gear (which they said is normal on audi diesels) I later found out with the healthcheck that its normal on Audi Q3's but not on Q2's.  I'm not getting quoted £940 to investigate with a likely £3000 repair bill after diagnosis for an issue I was told wasnt an issue when buying.

2. The windscreen wash wasnt coming out (they said that it just needs refilling or new wipers) but its actually blocked and needs unblocking which costs x amount

3. Theres a slow puncture on one of the tyres that I pointed out multiple times on the day, spoke to manager who discussed with the on site mechanic who all assured that it wasnt a slow puncture and there was no issue, but ever since that same tyre has been constantly deflating at a far higher rate than the other 3.  Often going from 40psi to 20 within a couple weeks.

All 3 of these issues were raised at time of purchase, all 3 issues I was told wasnt nothing.

After getting a health check by Audi under the warranty plan I purchased with them, I've been told by practically everyone working there that I've purposely been sold a dud car and have been royally screwed over and should immediately contact my finance company as theres no way big motoring world were not aware of all of these issues, and their seriousness when they sold it to me. The total estimated repair cost is going to be between £5000-£6000.

Any advice? Or anyone who can share a similar experience?

This is on the front of the car. Somebody was backing way too fast perpendicular to me and just nicked this line in front. I have their info, I don’t want to involve the insurance because it’ll be way more expensive, but I kinda want to have this fixed. What are my options?

Hello guys, I recently bought a mazda 3 bk 2006. Car runs great and looks great but it has check engine light on because of Eolys Fluid Tank which is empty. The car had the dpf removed and then remapped so it runs great, no smoke, clean pipe. I deleted the error, light turned off, but when I filled the tank it got back. SO my question is " That to do with engine light, fill the tank with eolys even that i don't have dpf, or fill it with disel because i read the this additive goes in fuel system...". THANK YOU!!

Pretty short because I have not much clips

Can someone help me identify make model of car in images please?

so recently my (Subaru forester 2010) has been making really weird noises, I put them off until eventually it started making a really loud banging/rattling & squeaking noise. And the next day started smoking from the engine, So I took it to a mechanic shop and they fixed/replaced my timing belt, water pump, engine thermostat but the next day my car now is still making the same clicking noise and the belt is doing this again, is this normal? Any help or advice is appreciated!!!

If it’s borderline but a shop won’t do it I’ll plug it myself.

We just purchased this car less than two weeks ago. Didn’t notice anything during the test drive. We live an hour and a half from the dealer. The next morning, I took it for a drive and started noticing some rattles on the car hit certain road types that created the right vibration. Also driving over the road bumps/reflectors will cause the sound. It sounds like something is rattling like wild under the dash or towards the passenger door. Some rattling in the cargo area as well. But it’s most prominent up front. I’ve included a video.

We took the car back to the dealer because they said they would look at it and try to fix any issue. They’re claiming they can’t hear anything when they drive the car. They said all they hear is normal rattling sounds in a Honda vehicle. I’ve had many Hondas, and I know this is not normal. I even had a 2018. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? We’re driving back out there tomorrow morning to do a drive with them so we can help them hear the noise.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

The noise begins around 25 seconds into the video.

Turning the key and seeing this. I’m thinking dead battery

Clearcoat Failure or Paint Failure?

Looking to purchase a vehicle and want to get opinions on if this is just the clear coat failing or a total respray.

Affected areas are hood, roof, and trunk.

Car is a 2007 Acura TL. Seller claims he got a quote of $1,200 to fix.

Picture links:

https://ibb.co/tTWYJb7s https://ibb.co/wrKC1vj9

Any insight you have would be great!

Disregard the tag… my grandmother passed away last year and I have her car at my house. What is a reputable company that can help me transfer the title to me so I can legally drive it after fixing it?

Think my battery died and when I popped the case open this is what I saw. Can I still jump it?

what is the first mod i should do to it looking for more hp and want it sound better

I made an awful mistake of buying a total rust bucket that won’t pass inspection due to frame rot. The first mechanic I took it to says not fixable and the car needs to be scrapped. I got a second opinion and he says he can weld 1/4” steel to replace the rotted area and that the shop next door will pass it. But will it be safe to drive for another year while I save up to buy another car? I am located in Pennsylvania and would need to pass local safety inspection.

First 2 pics are my car in its current condition, all other photos are before/after of a ford escape he did earlier in the year. I haven’t gotten the quote for repairs yet but he says it’ll be cheaper than buying a new car.

What are your thoughts? Pls don’t give me shit for buying this POS, I come from the west where rust isn’t an issue and the scumbag that sold me the car told me all cars in the northeast have rust 😭 I didn’t see the fist sized hole in the frame until I tried to get my stickers.

Well,

I might buy a car tomorrow, and I’m wondering what I should do for the bill of sale. I’m going to be buying it, but I’m going to register it in my mom’s name (long story). One thing to add is that I’m making this transaction in a different state than the one that it’ll get registered in. So, should I:

A) use my name for the bill of sale and just hope the dmv won’t care when I try to register it in her name

B) use her name for the bill of sale even though I’m the one technically making the transaction

C) use my name for the bill of sale, then make up another bill of sale so I “sell the car” to her and make it in her name.

Or do bills of sale even matter that much. Just wanted to hear what you think.

I haven't got a picture atm sorry but the sump plug bolt that we need to take off for an oil change. The people before me have like tightened it on there with the strength of hulk and then they have rounded the bolt to the point where everything we use just keeps slipping off we've even tried to file it down to see if it would stick but no, we even tried filing a flatline in the middle to move it with a flathead or even chisel lol but still nothing our only thoughts left to try is to try migweld another bolt to the nut to get it off, if I can find one or I guess I gotta try the mechanics.

Sorry car model is a 2004 VY ectotec Holden Commodore Berlina

I bought a new car in July last year. I'm now at 15,000km. No lemon law here.

On day 3 the app said I had two DTC codes, but no CEL on the car so I took it into the dealership who said there was nothing. The codes are still in the app and tells me constantly there are health issues.

The washer nozzles spray super low and worse at highway speed. The dealership confirmed they are aware of the complaints, they can't adjust them, and they expect a recall - that was last October and nothing yet. It was damn near dangerous this winter when salty road spray is coating the windshield in a white haze.

HVAC won't turn off with the windows open. When it's set to OFF it still behaves like it's set to AUTO. I fiddle with the temp before turning it off but it still constantly blows the fan at a high speed, like 70%. I have all the passive HVAC settings turned off to be sure.

Occasionally the second row vents blow hot when I have AC selected. This isn't just the system cooling down. They'll be blowing HOT even after 15 or 30 min of driving and the front vents blowing ice cold. this happens sporadically so I'm wondering if it's a damper control issue or something.

The exterior door handle has a touch pad to lock the doors which stops working at random.

Auto start using the app will sometimes say it failed but I go out and the car is running.

When towing I constantly, like ever 5 min, get a "take a coffee break" warning. I absolutely never get this warning when not towing. And to top it off, I did a quick loop around my lakes private road with a trailer but the wiring not plugged in, never got the warning.

Driver side dash speaker is starting to crackle sporadically.

Top of the rear passenger door is rusting from under the weather stripping.

OTA updates were advertised as standard in Canada but they don't work. Neither do manual USB updates from the Hyundai Canada website. I see the US has received 8-10 updates in the past year - some are added infotainment function and some are software fixes. So I'm wondering if there is an update out there that would solve any of my issues.

The dealer has been good to work with, but nothing has been resolved. Like they gave me a new 7 pin connector to try, and I had a sit down meeting with the general manager, shop manager, and shop foreman. And all my communication has been directly with the GM who is very responsive and wants me to come in again so he and I can go for a drive together. Some of the problem is I can't replicate some of the issues when I do take it in to them.

Am I being nitpicky with a new car? Are they all like this? My previous vehicle was a top trim Silverado LTZ which was truly perfect. But it was a 2012. Only repair it needed outside of routine maintenance and wear items like brakes, was a coolant reservoir cap that broke: $7 over 13 years of ownership and 260,000km. Our other vehicle is a loaded 2020 CX5 and it's been great appart from chewing through rear brake pads. So are more modern vehicles with all sort of tech just prone to more issues? My feeling is the HVAC problems are ekinda inexcusable, HVAC ain't new. Same goes for the washer nozzles.

Hello, I’ve got 2din radio in my audi a3 8p1, today I turned the light off in the radio because it was too bright and didn’t turn on anymore after 5mins, tried everything, changed the fuse 15a, checked the wiring, tried every button, everything is in place😑, only one button show light(SRC), tried also the disk ejection button no sound either, did I burn up the radio? Also when I held the volume button the radio would turn on but didn’t now and before turning on it would make a beep sound, but now I don’t get any sound from it. Also when I turned on car lights it made sound earlier but again no sound from this thing…

Oil leaking from around this area. What is this part called? Next to my front left axle where the lines connect.