I have a warranty and stuff with it should I return it or is this nothing major pls help

So yea I have a 2017 Gibson tribute gold top in a left handed configuration. I sent my guitar in for work on March 6th. So it has been a month. I understand the headstock needs to be glued but my headstock was only cracked from one side of the nut, following down to the second fret area. So not really a break if you will. I wanna call and ask for an update, would that be rude knowing it’s quite a busy and trusted shop?

Got some metal mounting ring/Humbucker frames on my lp and wonder if it’s affecting the tone… on one hand there must be a reason they are normally made of plastic.

Full disclosure, the bad solder job is by me. Got this 1998 American Standard Strat and the black lead was disconnected, so I thought I could just learn to solder while fixing it. The end result isn't terrible -- the guitar plays now, where it just made noise before -- but I still ended up with a big glob of solder that I couldn't liquify like I thought I could, just kept adding onto it.

Should I have been trying to heat up the tiny bit of solder that was already there -- similar to the white lead -- and pushing the wire into the hole first? It wasn't melting for me. There's clearly a lot I don't understand about soldering.

As long as it works, should I not mess with it? It feels like it can't help but affect the sound a little bit to not have the wire in actual contact with the jack metal but with the glob of solder.

I saw a great dye staining recipe on YouTube and have wanted to try it out on a kit build (mahogany body, maple cap). I’m trying to learn more about the finishing process but I’m getting different processes and ideas with minimal consistency between them.

Can I get some feedback on the process I think is right?

1. Grain filler, followed by sanding sealer on the maple and mahogany
2. Black spray paint for the mahogany body
3. Leather dyes (Fiebings) for the maple cap
4. Nitrocellulose clear coat to seal the finish

I haven’t decided on a neck finish yet, let alone ventured into the video tutorials/suggestions. I’d like to paint the neck black as well without a nitro coat, which may cause my hand to stick while playing.

A new version (v1.3) of the online String Set Calculator for Guitars and Similar Instruments is now available on my site. There are a few small fixes and documentation changes in the new version.

R.M. Mottola

LiutaioMottola.com

Author of the books Building the Steel String Acoustic Guitar and Mottola's Cyclopedic Dictionary of Lutherie Terms.

(ps I don't check in here regularly. To reply or to ask additional questions, the best bet is to contact me through my website.)

Planning on refinishing this battered Squier body in a metallic silver. This would be my fourth guitar paint job - three others were natural finishes.

Does anyone have tips for preventing runs or sags with metallic rattle can paint? I have gotten runs on the previous jobs and either leveled or started over as needed. With metallic paints though, the sags and runs distribute the flake unevenly.

I thought about doing the back and top separately on a flat surface to help. That will double the process time but it’s just for me it’s not for a paying customer who’s waiting.

I also thought about maybe rigging up some sort of jig to hold the body horizontal and let me rotate it. Maybe a pipe or dowel in a hole on the skirt of the workbench that’s then u-bolted to the neck pocket?

Appreciate any tips. I’ve gotten better every time, so I have my hopes high for this one.

brought my classic vibe mustang in for a setup about a month and a half ago, still sounded the same post-setup as it had before (clanky buzzing lower strings). brought it back again and this is how it sounds. am i overly sensitive to buzz or is this satisfactory to you guys?

I've got the opportunity to buy a cheap Jazzmaster.

The seller says there's fret buzz on the 1-3rd frets.

I'm wondering if the frets are shot, or if a standard setup is likely to fix the issue. I know the pic isn't the best, but I figure it's worth asking someone with sharper eyes than mine.

Thanks in advance.

Apologies if this isnt the right place but ive been trying to get my neck back onto the body and the top right screw wont go all the way in, ive swapped screws with the other places and same thing happens, this is the farthest I’ve been able to get it in, any advice or should i just say f it and play it like this?

Hi everyone! I hope this fits in this subreddit. I have this squier tele that I'm not really fond of and was thinking of modding it by putting in a new bridge and p90 pickup instead of the single coil, so I wanted to ask if this was at all a good idea and if this guitar was good for a first modding project.

This is my first instrument build of anykind, and Im making a 5 string electric mandolin for some western swing and older country. Everything else has been fairly smooth, but the neck and frets have been the most challenging. The neck and fretboard are both from scratch, and have turned out pretty well after some minor issues. I know the nut will.need to be adjusted after the strings go on, and definitely haf some issues with the frets too. Its nowhere near perfect but Im proud of how its ended up.

If anyone reading this is scared to start their first build, just do it! Ive learned alot that I will put into build two, but will keep this one with imperfections as a reminder.

First post in here, hello all, so I guess I’d better put up some of my current projects. Calling this one the Vorlich. 25.25” scale just to be different, twin p90s with all premium parts.

Building 3 at once for the first time ever. Identical design with different woods and pickup makers. French walnut, mahogany and paulownia. Biggest issue I’m gonna have is choosing which parts will go on each. Guess I can ask you guys when the time comes.

I’m about to carve the neck profiles, then I’m pretty much ready for lacquer/paint after the obligatory holes are drilled. Hopefully be ready in the summer. What do you think?

Specs:
- 25,5" scale length
- Walnut body
- Flamed Birch top (black veneer middle accent layer)
- 3-piece Maple Neck with black veneer stringers
- Pale Moon Ebony fretboard
- "Feathers of Icarus" inlays resin/glass powder
- Brass nut
- Lundgren Black Heaven pickup set
- Grainger Hardtail bridge (string-through)
- Schaller Locking tuners
- Schaller Strap locks
- Master Volume, Tone, 3-Way toggle switch, Coil Split mini toggle, Puretone jack
- Luminlay side dots

hey everyone, i’m currently modifying a jt-300 and looking to replace the bridge. i want a 6 saddle top loader (as the jt-300 does not have through body). however, there’s not many options online for a 6 saddle top loader. i’ve seen a couple amazon ones (wilkinson, musiclily) that could work but i’m really looking for one with saddles like the modern gotohs. if anyone has any input i would appreciate it, thanks

Hey, i want to know what the best way to get the nut onto this round neck resonator is. I guess the right way is to carve/file/route a flat plane at the end of the fretboard that is 90°, like 2mm, and then position the nut there. I think easier to get it right without weakening the guitar's most vulnerable part is to fit the nut to the angle of the headstock and glue it in. So just sand down the bottom of the bridge to that angle..

what would you guys do?

Guitare France – Un espace pour tous les passionnés… et les luthiers !

Guitare France, c’est un serveur Discord francophone dédié aux guitaristes, musiciens (batteurs, chanteurs, claviéristes...) et amoureux de la musique en général.
Notre mission ? Promouvoir l’instrument, soutenir la scène française, et surtout, favoriser les échanges et les collaborations entre passionnés, qu’ils soient amateurs, professionnels ou simplement curieux.

Mais Guitare France, ce n’est pas qu’un lieu pour discuter riffs et solos.
C’est aussi un point de rencontre entre musiciens et artisans, où la lutherie a toute sa place.

Pourquoi les luthiers ont leur place sur Guitare France ?

• Un salon dédié pour présenter votre travail, vos instruments, vos restaurations ou créations uniques.
• Un espace Petites Annonces pour proposer vos services ou vendre du matériel.
• Des échanges avec des musiciens de tous niveaux qui cherchent conseils, retours ou collaborations.
• Une visibilité directe auprès d’une communauté ciblée, active et passionnée.
• La possibilité d’éduquer, d’échanger, de répondre à des questions techniques, et même de démocratiser la lutherie auprès de jeunes curieux ou débutants.

Vous êtes luthier professionnel, amateur éclairé, ou simplement passionné de bois et de belles mécaniques ?
Venez partager votre savoir-faire, vos projets, vos créations.

Guitare France, ce n’est pas qu’un serveur Discord.
C’est un véritable carrefour pour les musiciens et artisans, un lieu vivant où chaque membre peut trouver sa place, enrichir les autres et s’enrichir soi-même.

Rejoignez-nous : discord.gg/GmjjYv7Yeu
À très vite dans les salons !
— L’équipe Guitare France

i'm trying to re-paint my first guitar (owned it for 13 years) it is very special for me and i want to work on it myself,i know if i take it to luthier they will do it better but i prefer me doing it in a acceptable way,i already stripped the finish and sanded down entire thing,fixed little dents and impurities with wood putty and sanded it down again,now it's smooth and ready to paint.i want to go for a matte dark green finish,if someone is kind enough here to give me suggestions i'll be more than glad to listen,from start to finish,how do i paint a guitar in matte colour and if it's possible on matte colours,how do i protect it after painting it like a satin finish?thank you for reading all this and wish you good day!

Hey everyone,

I am looking to put a dogear p90 on an epiphone Les paul jr that is routed for a humbucker.

Width-wise, I need to remove a little material for the pickup to fit, but the dogear pickup cover should cover the gap well enough. Vertically, there is about 2mm of gap on either side.

I am looking for a mini pickguard/adapter plate of some sort that will add 5-10mm to the footprint of the dogear p90 and boost the height of it a little.

In my search so far, I have only found adapter plates that have the same footprint as the dogear cover. I do not have tools at the moment to cut and bevel pickguards. If I can't find an off the self solution, I may cut something thin and accept it being non-beveled (trying to keep the cost low on this project).

I got the idea from this guy, he makes something similar off-camera and introduces it around 7:00 into the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOCCorW0qDc&ab_channel=GtoneGuitars

Hey all. I am running into an issue with my prs se in regards to coil split. Currently, the bridge pickup functions as it should (full humbucker when tone pot is down, split when pot is pulled up). However, with the neck pickup, it is functioning in reverse (full humbucker when pot is pulled up, and split when pushed down). Anyone have any idea why this might be, and what i would need to switch to fix this?

Squire Jaguar. I just wanna seal it up to make it so it doesn’t get worse. I know it might not look perfect, but that’s ok… this will just be my punk rock guitar from now on.

What do I buy to seal it and what paint can I use to touch up with?

any tips on the best way to go about doing all this?