This is my first instrument build of anykind, and Im making a 5 string electric mandolin for some western swing and older country. Everything else has been fairly smooth, but the neck and frets have been the most challenging. The neck and fretboard are both from scratch, and have turned out pretty well after some minor issues. I know the nut will.need to be adjusted after the strings go on, and definitely haf some issues with the frets too. Its nowhere near perfect but Im proud of how its ended up.

If anyone reading this is scared to start their first build, just do it! Ive learned alot that I will put into build two, but will keep this one with imperfections as a reminder.

Specs:
- 25,5" scale length
- Walnut body
- Flamed Birch top (black veneer middle accent layer)
- 3-piece Maple Neck with black veneer stringers
- Pale Moon Ebony fretboard
- "Feathers of Icarus" inlays resin/glass powder
- Brass nut
- Lundgren Black Heaven pickup set
- Grainger Hardtail bridge (string-through)
- Schaller Locking tuners
- Schaller Strap locks
- Master Volume, Tone, 3-Way toggle switch, Coil Split mini toggle, Puretone jack
- Luminlay side dots

https://www.strangeguitarworks.com/repairing-a-broken-gibson-headstock-and-adding-a-volute/

I’m very new to this, and couldn’t really find a good wiring for this setup. I’m just getting a buzz, like it’s not grounded

Howdy luthiers, My main bass that I love to play is a sort of Bo-Diddly style rig that’s built into a suitcase that opens up. Anyway, my input jack has gotten loose from playing out and one of the wires has become disconnected. My question is essentially, am I good to just solder the wire back into place or will I mess something up? Pictures attached. I am planning on reinforcing where the input sits on the body to prevent the wire from disconnecting again.

Apologies if this isnt the right place but ive been trying to get my neck back onto the body and the top right screw wont go all the way in, ive swapped screws with the other places and same thing happens, this is the farthest I’ve been able to get it in, any advice or should i just say f it and play it like this?

Hey all. I am running into an issue with my prs se in regards to coil split. Currently, the bridge pickup functions as it should (full humbucker when tone pot is down, split when pot is pulled up). However, with the neck pickup, it is functioning in reverse (full humbucker when pot is pulled up, and split when pushed down). Anyone have any idea why this might be, and what i would need to switch to fix this?

I am gonna start building my girlfriend and electric guitar and the kit that I got (for free) has Floyd Rose routing and she is just learning so I don't want her to have to learn and deal with the Floyd. Are their either any bridges that would be able to work with the Floyd Rose routing that are fixed bridge and or cheaper alternatives to the tremol-no that would make a Floyd style bridge basically a fixed bridge? Here's a pic of the kit if that helps any.

Hi everyone! I hope this fits in this subreddit. I have this squier tele that I'm not really fond of and was thinking of modding it by putting in a new bridge and p90 pickup instead of the single coil, so I wanted to ask if this was at all a good idea and if this guitar was good for a first modding project.

Im hoping to install a harmonica style bridge on my strat. I was wondering what the best way to fill the cavity for the tremelo block so i can drill the post holes for the bridge? Picture for attention

First post in here, hello all, so I guess I’d better put up some of my current projects. Calling this one the Vorlich. 25.25” scale just to be different, twin p90s with all premium parts.

Building 3 at once for the first time ever. Identical design with different woods and pickup makers. French walnut, mahogany and paulownia. Biggest issue I’m gonna have is choosing which parts will go on each. Guess I can ask you guys when the time comes.

I’m about to carve the neck profiles, then I’m pretty much ready for lacquer/paint after the obligatory holes are drilled. Hopefully be ready in the summer. What do you think?

Got this guitar off reverb it was listed as not producing any sound. Thought it may have needed a new input jack because the original was pretty messed up but after replacing it it still doesn't have any sound. Anyone here have any ideas?

Hi all,

This my first build, a ES-335 kit I ordered from China (yinfente shop). It came with maple top having too heavy grain pattern, kinda even more porous than mahogany, which is weird. I did not grain fill it, and I was a bit afraid sanding it too harsh, so I sanded it with 240 grit paper lightly. I think I messed up even more with sanding sealer as well since 3 coats were ca. half a can (Nitorlack clear primer). Then I proceeded with color, it’s 4 coats of nitorlack wine red (ca. 1 can). Then 1.5 cans of clear matte nitro (same manufacturer), and I see the grain still being there. Does it make sense to get more clear coats? Or that‘s it and I can only have the kinda „open grain“ finish regardless of further nitro coats? If the latter is the case, do I need to wet sand it after nitro fully cures? Many thanks for any input

Stupidly scratched the surface of my 2024 Ultra Telecaster with a blade while swapping out the bridge pick up. Are there any magic products I can use to buff this out?

When I learned 7 years ago that Brian May built his own guitar, I wanted to do the same ; design my own. So I went and draw something while bored in class, inspired by the striking make up of my late hero, David Bowie. I didn’t knew it then, but it would soon become the project of my life : the Space Pallet. In march of 2019, I’ve completed the first version of the guitar (end photo). The body would be made from pallets (pine), and I’ve made the CNC program myself for cutting the neck from oak. Precut fretboard was my only option, along a badly applied Tru Oil finish. It would weight near 4.5kgs.

Then, starting late 2019, I’ve started working on a new version. That one arrived in 2020, the version II (penultimate photo). Lower horn redesigned, one kilo less, added bridge pickup, uniform color with matching headstock. It really started to look like a proper electric guitar, despite evident flaws.

In 2022, due to the multiple structural and finish problems, my own bettering at woodworking and my furthering ambitions for the instrument, I made the decision to completely make the guitar over again. I thought it was possible to make it in a few months ; it took me more than two years.

Why ? Because I only could work on it during vacations in my hometown… Also I’ve done a lot of retro engineering to fit what is still the same neck from the beginning and the same pickguard for 5 years now. It knew something like 4 fretboards in total, because of mistakes…

But I’ve worked hard, and tried everything possible to make my ideal electric guitar.

It still has flaws, but these one are a reflection of myself, so who am I to pretend my rock and synth machine will ever be perfect ?

FULL SPECS : -Burned pallet body and matching headstock -PU satin finish -carbon reinforced headstock and neck -ebony fretboard with pearl inlay and blind fretslots, custom constellation -stripped ebony backstrap -SS frets -burned and stained pallet body with maple reinforcements, -cavities with HDF reinforcements -locking tuners, with drop D -stetsbar vibrato pro III -SH pickup config with 6 ways freeswitch and series/parallel switch for neck HB, 2T 1V (I may change the layout in the future it’s a bit clunky) -slide magnet in the upper horn -a functional piezo sound with MIDI capabilities from Graphtech ; custom bracket for a seamless integration in the pickguard

hey everyone, i’m currently modifying a jt-300 and looking to replace the bridge. i want a 6 saddle top loader (as the jt-300 does not have through body). however, there’s not many options online for a 6 saddle top loader. i’ve seen a couple amazon ones (wilkinson, musiclily) that could work but i’m really looking for one with saddles like the modern gotohs. if anyone has any input i would appreciate it, thanks

Hey, i want to know what the best way to get the nut onto this round neck resonator is. I guess the right way is to carve/file/route a flat plane at the end of the fretboard that is 90°, like 2mm, and then position the nut there. I think easier to get it right without weakening the guitar's most vulnerable part is to fit the nut to the angle of the headstock and glue it in. So just sand down the bottom of the bridge to that angle..

what would you guys do?

Anyone have a fret end file they like that is less expensive (with shipping) than Stew Mac’s? I don’t do fret work often enough to feel justified spending $30 (delivered) on an end file. But, I am also getting to the point where I’m tired of making do with an inadequate tool.

So, before I bite the bullet, anyone have one they recommend? Music Nomad stuff has a good reputation, but the price would be about the same for their diamond e-file.

Guitare France – Un espace pour tous les passionnés… et les luthiers !

Guitare France, c’est un serveur Discord francophone dédié aux guitaristes, musiciens (batteurs, chanteurs, claviéristes...) et amoureux de la musique en général.
Notre mission ? Promouvoir l’instrument, soutenir la scène française, et surtout, favoriser les échanges et les collaborations entre passionnés, qu’ils soient amateurs, professionnels ou simplement curieux.

Mais Guitare France, ce n’est pas qu’un lieu pour discuter riffs et solos.
C’est aussi un point de rencontre entre musiciens et artisans, où la lutherie a toute sa place.

Pourquoi les luthiers ont leur place sur Guitare France ?

• Un salon dédié pour présenter votre travail, vos instruments, vos restaurations ou créations uniques.
• Un espace Petites Annonces pour proposer vos services ou vendre du matériel.
• Des échanges avec des musiciens de tous niveaux qui cherchent conseils, retours ou collaborations.
• Une visibilité directe auprès d’une communauté ciblée, active et passionnée.
• La possibilité d’éduquer, d’échanger, de répondre à des questions techniques, et même de démocratiser la lutherie auprès de jeunes curieux ou débutants.

Vous êtes luthier professionnel, amateur éclairé, ou simplement passionné de bois et de belles mécaniques ?
Venez partager votre savoir-faire, vos projets, vos créations.

Guitare France, ce n’est pas qu’un serveur Discord.
C’est un véritable carrefour pour les musiciens et artisans, un lieu vivant où chaque membre peut trouver sa place, enrichir les autres et s’enrichir soi-même.

Rejoignez-nous : discord.gg/GmjjYv7Yeu
À très vite dans les salons !
— L’équipe Guitare France

i'm trying to re-paint my first guitar (owned it for 13 years) it is very special for me and i want to work on it myself,i know if i take it to luthier they will do it better but i prefer me doing it in a acceptable way,i already stripped the finish and sanded down entire thing,fixed little dents and impurities with wood putty and sanded it down again,now it's smooth and ready to paint.i want to go for a matte dark green finish,if someone is kind enough here to give me suggestions i'll be more than glad to listen,from start to finish,how do i paint a guitar in matte colour and if it's possible on matte colours,how do i protect it after painting it like a satin finish?thank you for reading all this and wish you good day!

Hey everyone,

I am looking to put a dogear p90 on an epiphone Les paul jr that is routed for a humbucker.

Width-wise, I need to remove a little material for the pickup to fit, but the dogear pickup cover should cover the gap well enough. Vertically, there is about 2mm of gap on either side.

I am looking for a mini pickguard/adapter plate of some sort that will add 5-10mm to the footprint of the dogear p90 and boost the height of it a little.

In my search so far, I have only found adapter plates that have the same footprint as the dogear cover. I do not have tools at the moment to cut and bevel pickguards. If I can't find an off the self solution, I may cut something thin and accept it being non-beveled (trying to keep the cost low on this project).

I got the idea from this guy, he makes something similar off-camera and introduces it around 7:00 into the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOCCorW0qDc&ab_channel=GtoneGuitars

Planning on refinishing this battered Squier body in a metallic silver. This would be my fourth guitar paint job - three others were natural finishes.

Does anyone have tips for preventing runs or sags with metallic rattle can paint? I have gotten runs on the previous jobs and either leveled or started over as needed. With metallic paints though, the sags and runs distribute the flake unevenly.

I thought about doing the back and top separately on a flat surface to help. That will double the process time but it’s just for me it’s not for a paying customer who’s waiting.

I also thought about maybe rigging up some sort of jig to hold the body horizontal and let me rotate it. Maybe a pipe or dowel in a hole on the skirt of the workbench that’s then u-bolted to the neck pocket?

Appreciate any tips. I’ve gotten better every time, so I have my hopes high for this one.