Hi everyone, I’ve installed an Almonard heavy-duty 12-inch (300 mm) 90W exhaust fan in my room window (around 400 sq ft area) in Pune, India. The fan is mounted using iron strips with rubber padding, and the airflow is quite powerful. But I’m facing two key issues: 1. Mesh Problem: There’s a fiberglass mosquito mesh in front of the fan (on the outside), and it seems to be reducing the airflow a lot, even though the holes are small (0.1 cm square). I cleaned the mesh, which didnt help, so: • Should I remove the mesh entirely? • If yes, what’s a good low-cost way to still protect against mosquitoes, lizards, and dust? • Would placing a mesh 10 cm away from the fan (on the outside) help? 2. Sealing Issues: The fan is installed in a window that I still need to open and close sometimes, so sealing it completely is hard. • Would partial sealing help with airflow and noise? • What are the best budget DIY methods to seal the sides and gaps while keeping it somewhat functional?

I’m looking for budget-friendly ideas and DIY solutions that I can do myself without spending too much more. Would love any tips, especially from others in similar hot and humid climates.

Living area fan wiring - https://imgur.com/10fC4DB
Slight distant view of living Area - https://imgur.com/LeVDpS1
Long view of living area from kitchen - Kitchen has recessed lights - https://imgur.com/4cbIt1b

I missed to add the recessing lights to my living room. Its a new build home. The builder is not allowing me to do any changes now. I have recessed lighting in my kitchen.

Can my electrician can climb onto the attic ? Will the joists hold his weight to clear out the insulation while adding adding recessed lighting ?

I am worried about the insulation contact with the recessed lights. Please provide your valuable suggestions .Appreciate your help.

Hello, we bought a house last year that inexplicably has two hose spigots in the front yard, and none in the back. This is... useless for the most part. I would love to just have a new one routed, but the home is brick, so that is both not DIYable (at least for me), and likely very expensive for a plumber to do. So, is there a way to essentially just "move" the one I have, but leave it always on, at least during the warm months, and route it to another one that I am able to turn off/on? I would obviously need a solid connection to the always on one, but I am also not sure if that is just a horrible idea or something people actually do.

Edit to add: the spigot I want to "extend" is only 5-8 feet away from the backyard, so this wouldn't be a long run.

Ok so I got my ac replaced last year around November. I I turned on the ac this year already since it’s pretty warm and to my surprise it works amazing but seems to be over working do to having an old fan vent that leads to the attic and well it’s sucking all the hot air from the attic through the hole. I don’t use that fan no more so it’s just sitting. While I get it patched professionally, I wanted to use a piece of plywood to seal it so it doesn’t pull the hot air back in. Would plywood be a really good seal for the time being. I would buy some type of gasket so it presses tight. Someone recommended particle board but I’m not convinced. Anyone thing plywood is good enough? Any recommendations thanks

Before wallpapering I'm supposed to prime the wall. Would watered down Matt emulsion be ok? So prime the wall with watered Matt emulsion then wallpaper straight after drying?

Looking at doing a cement pad for a Gazebo that is 12x10.

I done VERY basic concrete work like pouring a ramp to to my barn ~8" high.

Is this something I am over estimating myself on or something I can do as a DIY.

I plan on having a truck deliver the cement, there's a company that does 3 yard deliveries.

Should I use rebar or no?

I’m looking for input on whether it’s smart (well, I don't care about smart--I just don't want to cause serious problems down the road) to modify the existing trusses in my detached garage/shed, which was built in the 1930s.

The structure is framed with 2x4 lumber. The trusses span approximately 18 feet. The current configuration is:

• Bottom chord: A single 2x4, nearly 18 feet long, spanning the width of the building (I know, I can't believe it either).
• Top chords: Also 2x4s that meet at a ridge and tie into 1x6 ridge board.
• King post: Present, made of 1x6.
• Two web members: Also 1x6 material, forming a basic triangular truss shape.
• The bottom chord does not sit directly on the top plate, but appears to be fastened to the top chords with two nails on each side and that's basically it.

My goal is to raise the bottom chord—essentially shortening it—to create more headroom in the garage/ shed. I guess my concern is that the bottom chords are used to keep the shed/ garage walls from bowing out... but maybe that's not really a concern, I'm just not sure.

I got this idea from this post here and this is sort of what I'm going for.

Any thoughts?

I got a 10x16 shed built so I can work in it year round. The floor, walls, and ceiling are all spray foamed. Problem is it's 85 degrees in summer and they spray foamed over the 2 vents. Would clearing those help cool it down a bit?

First time home buyer and new to home improvement. There was a rather large gap (1.5 inch) around the interior dryer vent hose. I just sealed the gap with great stuff foam insulation after seeing that this is a easy fix. I even saw in the companies usage documentation that dryer vent gaps is listed.

However, I also saw that this foam is combustible at 240 degrees. And the max temps for dryer exhaust can be as high as 200 degrees. Did I just create a huge fire hazard in my new house?

I don't know what to do about this door. I can not get it to seal. It will be hard as can be around the lock, which is ugly i know. But loose at the bottom and top. You can see daylight around the edges. Its this super dense foam that has very little give. I've tried a few searches and I've not been able to find just what I should do to seal up the door way.

I'm looking at some free-standing lean-to carports:

• Option 1
• Option 2

And I'm curious how these would be anchored to the ground.

I could use something like these anchors to attach them to the driveway concrete, but I'd expect that wouldn't be sufficient.

I could also imagine digging a hole and filling up a concrete footing just next to the driveway, but I don't know how deep / wide that would need to be.

Any suggestions / guidance? Thanks!

My wife wanted a higher end look to our island and I have a limited arsenal of tools. Thought I came up with a simple solution that not only dressed it up but made it look a little more solid.

I'm in the process of patching a wall after removing a medicine cabinet. While cutting the drywall, the paint around it started peeling off so easily I could pull it off. I continued scraping and removed quite a lot. In areas this actually reached the drywall paper so it wasn't an badly adhered, but most of it came off very easily.

My question is where do I stop? Do I carry on peeling off everything which comes off easily? If not, how do I make a clean stop? Also will I be able to hide the difference between the areas with old paint and without paint, using primer?

For context, I'm working on a bathroom, changing the vanity, replacing medicine cabinet with a mirror, and repainting. I'm a novice diyer but eager to learn.

I am replacing sink and sink furniture in my bathroom and i have no idea where the pipes and wires go when they enter the wall. I have tried with one stender finder, but it proves to be very unreliable. There is no sketches available either. Is there some other way of checking/testing. Or a stender finder that works good on ceramic tiles?

Hello community!
I am new to reddit and wanted to post it in kindle and askelectronics ,but had less karma

Q
how to make a kindle from this writing device https://www.mi.com/in/product/redmi-writing-pad/

modification budget 60$ excluding the display

Hello everyone and anyone that can answer my question from the poopy pictures basically I have a cape cod house that’s always super hot in the summer and I plan on reinsulating the back of the drywall in the near future but I was going to install a radiant barrier on the faces of the truss leaving a very big air gap for the hot air to rise and I also have old insulation above the drywall on the ceiling above the trusses I don’t plan on replacing because it’s more work then I plan on tackling but there is also and air gap that goes the whole way up to the eve with that out of the way I plan on having the radiant barrier go all the way up to meet the old insulation and go all the way to the floor so that air couldn’t escape into unfinished side of the attic I see it done both ways where they leave a gap at the bottom and top and I was curious why I should or shouldn’t do that, I will also add the one side of my house has one soffit vent not the best ventilation but there is one and the other side has an addition connected so instead of a soffit vent it’s a gable vent that’s what’s pictured and where the white stuff is at the bottom of the truss is where there is ab a 2 inch air gap all the way across the bottom if anyone can help thank you sm

Hi, my wife wants me to build recessed bookshelves in our office wall. My question is how much can I modify vertical studs to add in long horizontal book shelving? I am fairly handy with woodworking, and have plenty of tools and know how to get the execution part done. I just don't have any formal knowledge in home structural weight. Or is the best option here just to lose 12” of one side of the room and build out? Thanks for any help.

Hello, my sump pit has some water in it. I've been in this house for 4 years, I suspect something has changed with the water table over the past 2 years (it was dry as a bone before). Whatever the case is, I want to install a sump pump. We have a cover over the pit right now which was installed during radon remediation the last time the house changed hands.

Anyway, I'm purchasing a Zoeller M53 with a Zoeller 30-0181 check valve (unless people here disagree).

I assume all I need beyond this is a 1 1/2 inch PVC coupling to screw into the unit and of course the same width pipe, and few elbows. I very conveniently have a downspout just outside the house where the discharge would exit into the same 4" PVC (that runs to the city storm drain) that the downspout drains into - I can not drain to the sewer line within my house. Illegal where I am in NJ. I can do the PVC work, I've got the purple primer and dope and I've previously repaired/replaced some broken PVC piping for my irrigation system.

My question is - how do I bore a hole through the cinder foundation wall. I've got a 18V Makita drill with a hammer mode. What bit do I use and how do I seal around the hole?

Is it just a 2" carbide bit and some for-concrete DAP?

Any other advice for me as a DIYer?

Also, I think the 4" PVC outside my house which goes to the city storm drain will be able to handle the additional volume of water if that is a concern.

I just got curtain rods and the curtain rod brackets seem a bit different from what most people have. This is a picture of the hole I drilled for it right next to me holding the bracket. How am I supposed to mount the bracket into the hole? What am I missing?

DIY Beginner here.

In November, I had cracked grout going around the base perimeter of my shower. I removed the grout, and replaced it with this sealant. Now I noticed that the water is leaking into the floor of my closet that is on the other side of the closet. What did I do wrong?

Hi All,

The house came with this shed in the backyard but as you can see the base is rotting. I'm a completely newbie here, so would love some advice on how to make this space more usable.

Dimension - 10ft long x 6ft wide x 6ft tall.

Could I just dig out debris, and remain pieces of flooring (which seems to be plywood), and put concrete pavers from Home Depot in? Or would I have to pour concrete in?

The shed seems to be structurally secure, and I only intend to use it for storage. I want to make sure no critters burrow up from the bottom into the shed.

Thanks in advance.

My parents are re-doing the basement walls (painting), and the walls have years of mold on them. My dad and I used some mold killer and disinfectant and scraped the walls, and were wondering if there was anything else we could do to prevent more damage and hopefully keep water out.

The walls are cinderblock, and the house was built in the 70’s.

The photos are after spraying and scraping the walls.

I'm getting a strong smoky smell in our living room, where we have a fireplace with a pellet stove insert. Chimney sweep says the smell is due to a couple of things: 1) The chimney crown is pretty cracked and needs to be sealed and waterproofed (moisture is seeping in and causing the smell). There's also algae growth on some of the bricks. 2) The pellet stove liner only goes partway up the chimney, so a full liner should be installed.

After doing some research, it seems like sealing + waterproofing the chimney crown is pretty straightforward. Getting all of the bricks on the entire chimney waterproofed seems harder without harnesses etc. I don't feel comfortable touching the liner.

Is sealing + waterproofing a crown DIY-able for a not-super-handy homeowner? And am I wasting my time only addressing the crown and not the full chimney? Sweep's rate is $700 for full chimney seal + waterproof and another $700 for the liner.

Decided to cut and bend the top of the handrail to fit under the light switch. Only took an hour to reshape the rail. Took a lot longer to sand all the paint off and repaint it. But much happier with the result. For those that didn’t see the original post, my wife wanted a metal handrail for the stairs and didn’t want to spend $850 for one. Bought some 1.5” square tubing and made one. Just took some cutting, bending, and welding. Overall have $115 into it, brackets included. But didn’t test fit and the rail had to go past the switch so. So had to reshape it today as you can see.

Most of the posts I’m getting when I search on this topic are from people who hired it done versus doing it themselves. I want to hear from people who did a complete DIY bathroom renovation (or maybe you did 90% of the work but hired out things like plumbing and electric). What all did your project include, how many hours per week did you work on it, and how long in total from start to finish?