Hello,

I bought a brand new Franklin m210 to obviously find my studs. It work very well on wall that are not facing outside. However on the « four » walls that are facing the exterior, it’s very difficult (from inside :-)) to find any stud and sometimes all light are on and the they all disappear. I scanned from a power socket, found a stud but then it’s like there is nothing… ?

My house is 20yo.

Thanks for your help

https://imgur.com/a/WOAgUw5

Having some companies come out to get opinions on what needs done.

In the mean time I’m trying to get ahead of as much as I can. One guy says for sure we will need to at least flood cut. I don’t believe there is insulation behind the paneling/drywall. I was going to replace all the paneling and textured walls with new drywall anyways, but in like 5 years. Should I just go ahead and rip it all out?

Roughly a year ago a carpenter friend of mine and I replaced the flooring in my bathroom with laminate flooring. A few months ago I noticed this bump and chipping underneath the toilet. As a first time DIY, of course I've been procrastinating finishing the trim since we did this. I plan to finish it this today and tomorrow and am deciding how extensively I need to rework this. I need to redo the endcap panel too (it was poorly cut and needs to be re done).

Do I need to rip up all the flooring to get to this spot? Can I remove the toilet and just redo this one spot?

We just recaulked our bathtub/shower today. It’s one of those one piece, Bathfitter type tubs. That said, it’s one big loop of caulk. The caulk is silicone, GE advanced in almond. We did the whole painters tape trick, damp paper towel to smooth. Caulked the whole thing at once. We removed the tape immediately after we were done with the whole tub. In most spots, it looks fine. Maybe even great. But there are some sections where there is a ridge that pulled up when we removed the tape (or the caulk was too thick on the edge?), so it’s not flush with the surface. But there’s one section that just looks like a globbery mess. Naturally, it looks worst in the most high visibility areas on the front of the tub/shower. The previous owners of this house were not great, so there are a lot of things that require TLC (without completely ripping out walls, etc.) The Globby stretch was extra wide (probably 5/8”) and so we had larger than desired gaps and had to cover some drywall edges that were peeking through. We put down backer rod in the gap. But had to lay it on thick and wide to cover. We tried to carefully smooth and flatten the pulled edges but it didn’t work always and now we have lumpy caulk.

Here are my questions: 1) I know silicone does not adhere to itself. Can you cut out a section of caulk and redo it without redoing the WHOLE tub? My concern is the connection points from the “old” (but veryyyy freshly cured) caulk. 2) if yes to the above, do we cut out the two foot section? Or is it better to cut out the whole side of the shower, having the connection point of caulk be at the top corner? 3) when removing tape, did we wait too long? Work too slow? Remove it as you complete a stretch? 4) did I tape too wide with too much overhang on the surface?

Running into issues as I can't find a video of my exact model. Most videos show that I can unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Once I got the ignitor off, there is no plug. DonI have to take the back off to get to the plug or do I have to splice the new one in?

It’s 16 inches wide & the bottom shelf is 6 inches out from the wall. I found a spot for it within two studs, on either side for the hanging. Should I just use an angle bracket under the shelf at the bottom and a nail the top inside the built-in hooks?

Hello, my sump pit has some water in it. I've been in this house for 4 years, I suspect something has changed with the water table over the past 2 years (it was dry as a bone before). Whatever the case is, I want to install a sump pump. We have a cover over the pit right now which was installed during radon remediation the last time the house changed hands.

Anyway, I'm purchasing a Zoeller M53 with a Zoeller 30-0181 check valve (unless people here disagree).

I assume all I need beyond this is a 1 1/2 inch PVC coupling to screw into the unit and of course the same width pipe, and few elbows. I very conveniently have a downspout just outside the house where the discharge would exit into the same 4" PVC (that runs to the city storm drain) that the downspout drains into - I can not drain to the sewer line within my house. Illegal where I am in NJ. I can do the PVC work, I've got the purple primer and dope and I've previously repaired/replaced some broken PVC piping for my irrigation system.

My question is - how do I bore a hole through the cinder foundation wall. I've got a 18V Makita drill with a hammer mode. What bit do I use and how do I seal around the hole?

Is it just a 2" carbide bit and some for-concrete DAP?

Any other advice for me as a DIYer?

Also, I think the 4" PVC outside my house which goes to the city storm drain will be able to handle the additional volume of water if that is a concern.

I'm getting a strong smoky smell in our living room, where we have a fireplace with a pellet stove insert. Chimney sweep says the smell is due to a couple of things: 1) The chimney crown is pretty cracked and needs to be sealed and waterproofed (moisture is seeping in and causing the smell). There's also algae growth on some of the bricks. 2) The pellet stove liner only goes partway up the chimney, so a full liner should be installed.

After doing some research, it seems like sealing + waterproofing the chimney crown is pretty straightforward. Getting all of the bricks on the entire chimney waterproofed seems harder without harnesses etc. I don't feel comfortable touching the liner.

Is sealing + waterproofing a crown DIY-able for a not-super-handy homeowner? And am I wasting my time only addressing the crown and not the full chimney? Sweep's rate is $700 for full chimney seal + waterproof and another $700 for the liner.

Hey All,

I am needing to add some ventilation to my entertainment center since I had to inter my PS5-Pro into it because my almost 2 yr old son decided he loved pressing the buttons on it repeatedly. The EC I have is linked below as well as the fans I bought to use. I'm trying to think of the most optimal way to set this up while limiting access to the controls (again, due to the curious toddler). Any tips or thoughts would be appreciated. Please let me know if you need any additional information.

Entertainment Center: https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/three-posts-keefer-tv-stand-for-tvs-up-to-80-w004422355.html

Fan System: https://a.co/d/gVy2Tku https://a.co/d/55kA0Je

Thanks in advance for your time!

I just got curtain rods and the curtain rod brackets seem a bit different from what most people have. This is a picture of the hole I drilled for it right next to me holding the bracket. How am I supposed to mount the bracket into the hole? What am I missing?

DIY Beginner here.

Most of the posts I’m getting when I search on this topic are from people who hired it done versus doing it themselves. I want to hear from people who did a complete DIY bathroom renovation (or maybe you did 90% of the work but hired out things like plumbing and electric). What all did your project include, how many hours per week did you work on it, and how long in total from start to finish?

I am replacing sink and sink furniture in my bathroom and i have no idea where the pipes and wires go when they enter the wall. I have tried with one stender finder, but it proves to be very unreliable. There is no sketches available either. Is there some other way of checking/testing. Or a stender finder that works good on ceramic tiles?

Hello community!
I am new to reddit and wanted to post it in kindle and askelectronics ,but had less karma

Q
how to make a kindle from this writing device https://www.mi.com/in/product/redmi-writing-pad/

modification budget 60$ excluding the display

Living area fan wiring - https://imgur.com/10fC4DB
Slight distant view of living Area - https://imgur.com/LeVDpS1
Long view of living area from kitchen - Kitchen has recessed lights - https://imgur.com/4cbIt1b

I missed to add the recessing lights to my living room. Its a new build home. The builder is not allowing me to do any changes now. I have recessed lighting in my kitchen.

Can my electrician can climb onto the attic ? Will the joists hold his weight to clear out the insulation while adding adding recessed lighting ?

I am worried about the insulation contact with the recessed lights. Please provide your valuable suggestions .Appreciate your help.

Before wallpapering I'm supposed to prime the wall. Would watered down Matt emulsion be ok? So prime the wall with watered Matt emulsion then wallpaper straight after drying?

I’m planning on installing shoe molding in some areas in my house (I think the finish carpenters must’ve run out of time lol) and I have a few questions about how to do it. First of all, I’m planning to install it on a staircase (among other places); does it make sense to only install it on the landings, or should I add it to all of the steps too? If I’m installing it next to doorway, should I end the run of molding with a miter edge right at the inner edge of the doorframe (yellow lines in the picture), or should I stop at the outer edge of the doorframe (blue line)? The door frames are fully flush with the trim, so there’s no physical reason why I can’t cover them with molding, but I’m sure how it would look aesthetically.

Hi everyone, I’ve installed an Almonard heavy-duty 12-inch (300 mm) 90W exhaust fan in my room window (around 400 sq ft area) in Pune, India. The fan is mounted using iron strips with rubber padding, and the airflow is quite powerful. But I’m facing two key issues: 1. Mesh Problem: There’s a fiberglass mosquito mesh in front of the fan (on the outside), and it seems to be reducing the airflow a lot, even though the holes are small (0.1 cm square). I cleaned the mesh, which didnt help, so: • Should I remove the mesh entirely? • If yes, what’s a good low-cost way to still protect against mosquitoes, lizards, and dust? • Would placing a mesh 10 cm away from the fan (on the outside) help? 2. Sealing Issues: The fan is installed in a window that I still need to open and close sometimes, so sealing it completely is hard. • Would partial sealing help with airflow and noise? • What are the best budget DIY methods to seal the sides and gaps while keeping it somewhat functional?

I’m looking for budget-friendly ideas and DIY solutions that I can do myself without spending too much more. Would love any tips, especially from others in similar hot and humid climates.

I'm in the process of patching a wall after removing a medicine cabinet. While cutting the drywall, the paint around it started peeling off so easily I could pull it off. I continued scraping and removed quite a lot. In areas this actually reached the drywall paper so it wasn't an badly adhered, but most of it came off very easily.

My question is where do I stop? Do I carry on peeling off everything which comes off easily? If not, how do I make a clean stop? Also will I be able to hide the difference between the areas with old paint and without paint, using primer?

For context, I'm working on a bathroom, changing the vanity, replacing medicine cabinet with a mirror, and repainting. I'm a novice diyer but eager to learn.

Hi All,

The house came with this shed in the backyard but as you can see the base is rotting. I'm a completely newbie here, so would love some advice on how to make this space more usable.

Dimension - 10ft long x 6ft wide x 6ft tall.

Could I just dig out debris, and remain pieces of flooring (which seems to be plywood), and put concrete pavers from Home Depot in? Or would I have to pour concrete in?

The shed seems to be structurally secure, and I only intend to use it for storage. I want to make sure no critters burrow up from the bottom into the shed.

Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone and anyone that can answer my question from the poopy pictures basically I have a cape cod house that’s always super hot in the summer and I plan on reinsulating the back of the drywall in the near future but I was going to install a radiant barrier on the faces of the truss leaving a very big air gap for the hot air to rise and I also have old insulation above the drywall on the ceiling above the trusses I don’t plan on replacing because it’s more work then I plan on tackling but there is also and air gap that goes the whole way up to the eve with that out of the way I plan on having the radiant barrier go all the way up to meet the old insulation and go all the way to the floor so that air couldn’t escape into unfinished side of the attic I see it done both ways where they leave a gap at the bottom and top and I was curious why I should or shouldn’t do that, I will also add the one side of my house has one soffit vent not the best ventilation but there is one and the other side has an addition connected so instead of a soffit vent it’s a gable vent that’s what’s pictured and where the white stuff is at the bottom of the truss is where there is ab a 2 inch air gap all the way across the bottom if anyone can help thank you sm

My wife wanted a higher end look to our island and I have a limited arsenal of tools. Thought I came up with a simple solution that not only dressed it up but made it look a little more solid.

Decided to cut and bend the top of the handrail to fit under the light switch. Only took an hour to reshape the rail. Took a lot longer to sand all the paint off and repaint it. But much happier with the result. For those that didn’t see the original post, my wife wanted a metal handrail for the stairs and didn’t want to spend $850 for one. Bought some 1.5” square tubing and made one. Just took some cutting, bending, and welding. Overall have $115 into it, brackets included. But didn’t test fit and the rail had to go past the switch so. So had to reshape it today as you can see.

Fence build on a budget. Used 150mm palings instead of 100mm cause it worked out cheaper, reused an old jarrah post and put him at the front, morticed all posts instead of buying pre cut (was a punish).Took about 5 days at a relaxed pace. Were a bunch of services to duck and hide from (NBN, water, electrical) so had to hand dig all post holes.

All in all I’m happy with the end result, might add a couple sleepers underneath the palings in the high spots to stop dirt enter ring neighbours side.

Looking at doing a cement pad for a Gazebo that is 12x10.

I done VERY basic concrete work like pouring a ramp to to my barn ~8" high.

Is this something I am over estimating myself on or something I can do as a DIY.

I plan on having a truck deliver the cement, there's a company that does 3 yard deliveries.

Should I use rebar or no?

Hello, we bought a house last year that inexplicably has two hose spigots in the front yard, and none in the back. This is... useless for the most part. I would love to just have a new one routed, but the home is brick, so that is both not DIYable (at least for me), and likely very expensive for a plumber to do. So, is there a way to essentially just "move" the one I have, but leave it always on, at least during the warm months, and route it to another one that I am able to turn off/on? I would obviously need a solid connection to the always on one, but I am also not sure if that is just a horrible idea or something people actually do.

Edit to add: the spigot I want to "extend" is only 5-8 feet away from the backyard, so this wouldn't be a long run.