Location: WA

Vehicle: Toyota LandCruiser

Year: 1996

Mileage: 250k

Vehicle was written off as a total loss due to paint damage exceeding value, but vehicle appears to be in otherwise good condition. To register the vehicle, I’d need to take it to get inspected by the state patrol. Assuming it passes, I’d receive a rebuilt title.

Seller is asking $8,000.

In my opinion that would be a fair starting point if it had a clean title, but not when I have to deal with getting a rebuilt title and risk it failing inspection.

What’s a reasonable opening offer in this situation?

Wondering if I should buy now before tariffs really hit and drive up prices or wait a bit and maybe consumer sentiment being so poor and other recession factors forces prices down.

So I am considering financing a new Mazda CX 30 (base model, no frills or extras.) Price after dealer discount and before taxes/fees is $25,565. They have an offer going on for the month of April for 2.9% APR for 60 months, but I know it will only be available for the most qualified folks with excellent credit (the fine print specified 780+.) I also have never had a car loan.

The FICO Scorecard feature on my Discover and Amex CC apps showed 777 Transunion and 788 Experian. Both FICO Score 8.

Currently have 7 cards, oldest account is 14 years old, newest is two months, total combined credit limit is about 85k. I use my cards for everything except rent. Utilization is at 4%, no missed payments, and always pay statement balances to avoid interest. I have never had any other loans so I don't know if this would be considered a "thin file." 

I'm self employed, monthly income fluctuates but I made 58k gross last year and project similar for this year.

I can put $5500 down.

With all of this considered, do I have any realistic chance of getting approved for their 2.9% promo? If I don't qualify, is it possible they'd still offer something reasonably low like 4%? Sorry if that's naive, I don't know how this process works or what to expect. Also, do you think I will need to provide proof of income (and would my 2024 tax return suffice? I had a slower start this year due to injuries preventing work, so recent bank statements would not accurately represent future higher income.) Just wondering how prepared I should be.

Hey. I'm looking into purchasing a 2017 mazda cx-5. I have some questions and I'd be so, so grateful if anyone has the answers to any of them.

1. Do you expect used car prices to go up given recent economic policies?

2. My mom purchased a car last year. The dealer gave her no trouble with a PPI. She put down a deposit and then they drove the car to our mechanic and the mechanic checked it out. The dealer I just went to wouldn't take a deposit and said I could get a PPI but they wouldn't hold it for me. He seemed to really want me to not get a PPI but said it was allowed.

3. The car has been on the lot for 32 days. Is this a red flag? The salesperson went on about how she sold two of these cars within a week and she can't keep them on the lot but this one has been here for more than a month. Should I worry?

I had a few setbacks in the past months but I have enough money now for a down payment on a car and I am looking to get a small to mid-sizes view like a RAV4 ideally I'd like the usual Honda toyota Mazda Subaru or possibly Ford though I heard Subaru already raised their prices. So is there another brand that is still reasonable in price? Any suggestions on a small to midsize SUV that is under 30k out the door price? Plan to buy this week. I am in Virginia.

2019 Hyundai Sonata Limited

80,890 miles

(No defects or damage) Clean title, one owner, no accidents reported, good service history

No issues disclosed at time of purchase, if anything told and shown with internal inspection report that the car was in great mechanical condition.

I financed a used vehicle about 10 days ago from a dealer. During the purchase I was shown their inspection report with 0 issues, and told that the car was in great condition powertrain and cosmetically. I was told that the report would be included with the paperwork and when I got home (yes I should have checked prior, but I’m learning that I cannot trust verbal communication now) there was no carfax or inspection report in my paperwork folder. I have contacted the dealer 4 times now, through text and phone and email asking for the report which I was told I would be receiving via email from two different sales managers, the sales representative and the service manager. However I still have not received it, and most recently the sales representative told me the report does not exist or they don’t have it.

Now, in the last few days, I noticed some small tennis ball to softball sized oil spots which were not present for the first 5-6 days I had the vehicle as I park in the same place for work each day and it only started to happen after they changed my oil during a service to my windshield for a small crack (which they also didn’t repair, and told me after 8 hours of waiting now that I should just call the windshield people myself)

So, now I’m at a loss. I have not been able to be in any meaningful contact with anyone at the dealership to discuss — and looking at my paperwork it says on the BOS that the IL implied warranty is not implied, however, there were no issues disclosed prior or during purchase. It is also not rebuilt title or a flood car, so I don’t understand how it could be waived as those are the only two things that can exempt a car in IL to that implied warranty.

I just need some advice on how to further deal with this as I’m becoming increasingly frustrated with being told that I’m going to receive either services or paperwork and that not happening. I’m feeling deceived and duped by verbal confirmation and being shown paperwork at time of sale but now I don’t feel like I can prove they said anything because it wasn’t written down.

I have no idea what to do. I really hope I’m not SOL. I was very excited and felt confident in the purchase, thought I asked all the right questions and did my due diligence but apparently not enough.

Thank you everyone. I hope I can get this figured out. I love this car and I just hope that it works out.

Advice needed

My 2022 Honda CR-V lease ends in 6 months. Today’s payoff is $21,600. I have an offer from Carmax for $26,400. What’s the best way to leverage this $4,800 in equity? I’d like to stay within the Honda/Acura family and I’m leaning toward electrified, however I’m open to shopping around other brands if the deal is right. The most important thing for me is to keep my monthly payments around $280.

I recently purchased a car 4-5 weeks ago and have been trying to set up a payment method through my credit union. When I speak to the credit union they say I don’t have an account with them and talk to the dealer. I talk to the dealer and they say they can’t do anything and to talk to my credit union (that they gave me). Literally have no idea what to do and don’t want to get late fees or repoed??

It’s a legit dealer with tons of stores all over the country and a large credit union too.

Hello M(25) In New York, I need some advice! I am looking to finance a vehicle, I have $3500 saved up for a down payment and my old truck to trade in as well that they should get around $1000. In the end $4500 down. My significant other is going to co-sign for me seeing she has 772 credit, and mine is lower 600s. My issue is I work a tip based job. I make $600 a week in direct deposit, and another $600 on average in tips totaling out to $1200 a week. I will only have proof of the $600/week. Im looking to finance a car around $18,000-20,000, does anyone know if it will be possible. Thank you I’m advance, and any advice will be greatly appreciated!

I bought a 2010 2.4L RWD Tacoma with 84k miles from an old man for a good deal. Great maintenance record. But it’ll take 5k to get it looking the way I want. I feel like this would be a no brainer on a V6, but I’m concerned investing in something with limited power for towing, or off-roading. I understand the reliability of the truck, but is it worth spending the time and money on a 4 cylinder Tacoma?

I recently bought a pre-owned 2018 Hyundai Tucson Limited with 31k miles.

The listed price on the dealer’s website was $20,173. During the first round of negotiation, they offered the vehicle for $18,000 with a 3-year extended warranty priced at $4,500. Monthly payments would’ve been around $416 with a $2,000 down payment. I told them I’d think about it.

After considering it, I went back and told them I wanted to skip the $4,500 warranty altogether. I was aware that without it, I’d only have the 15-day minimum warranty required by law, and I was fine with that. This time, they removed only $1,500 from the price instead of the full $4,500, saying they “had to compensate for the warranty value somehow.” So the adjusted car price became $18,673. I agreed, and they ran my credit (651 score). I got a 10.81% APR. With a $2k down payment, my monthly payments would be $384.50. I agreed.

Then came the finance guy.

He told me that since the car had no warranty at all, I should consider a new 6-year/75k-mile plan for $3,500, saying it covered “absolutely everything.” This would push my monthly payment to $456. I declined. He kept lowering the price: $3,214… $3,147… I kept saying no. At one point, he asked if I could put an extra $1k down. I said maybe.

Then came more offers: $2,814… still no. Finally, he said he could give me an “employee discount, literally the last offer I'm able to make" and drop the warranty price to $2,314, which would bring my monthly payment to $411. I asked, “So that’s with a $3,000 down payment total?” He said yes. I agreed and signed.

Once I got home and did the math… I realized that after 66 months, I’ll have paid $30,137.88.

The car was $18,673. So with interest, fees, taxes, and the warranty, I’m paying over $11.5k more. I get that financing adds cost, but this feels insane.

Now, I know I can’t return the car, but here’s my question:

I only paid $2k so far — they’re planning to charge the remaining $1k down payment this coming Tuesday. Can I tell them that I want to cancel the warranty unless they agree to drop the extra $1k down payment?

Or, am I stuck?

Seems pretty reactive but hopefully not a sign of things to come.

2021 Range rover velar CPO 24K miles. 37k$ MSRP. Is it worth it?

Dealer says 3k for additional one year warranty after Cpo warranty expires. Should I consider this?

Recently bought a used car. The we owe agreement was to send the car to the body shop for driver side panels. Dealership said the car is ready. They detailed the car. They smoothed out the paint with some sort of detailing job. The patches and some bigger scratches still there. Body Shop is not detailing in my opinion. Im expecting a full fresh paint on the driver side. The car has been with them for 3 weeks now. First payment coming up on the 15th. Could I ask to unwind the deal if they do not complete this before the first payment? I drove the car like 3 day before I brought it back for the owe.

EDIT: Some of the imperfections. There is one with a tiny scratch but they scratched so I complained. photo

I’ve worked for Hyundai for the last 10 years 7 as a salesperson did 16-25 cars consistently every month with around 15-20 of those being new so the Hyundai spins were good. The last year and a half I was a sales manager and got pushed out when one department in the CDJR store closed and the manager there with more tenure was stuck in my job and they were going to reposition me to BDC sales manager. I got into banking but I’m only making $25 an hour.

I just worry about getting back into sales with the tariffs because I fear I won’t make the same money. Am I worrying over nothing? Or is this valid?

Hi All, I'm looking to buy a used 2024 MK8 GTI 380 Autobahn (Canadian model) with 15,000 km's (9000 miles., Car fax shows one owner, no accident, with a first service at 9700 km (6000 miles) and another at 12500 km (7700 miles) miles for an oil change.

It's my number one choice in colour that I want, I went to see the car and it looks and drives great. I feel the price is somewhat high but they will probably come down a bit.

The car is being sold at an Audi dealership, my question ultimately is the following, is it reasonable to buy a car from an off brand dealer rather than a VW dealer? This Audi dealer is reputable as far as I know and is a part of a larger automotive group.

I'm an out of state buyer (6 states away) and spent all day yesterday negotiating with the dealer remotely for a low milage great condition certified used vehicle. After finally agreeing on a OTD price they told me they can't take a deposit on used vehicles because they've "been burned before" by people making deposits, not picking up the vehicles, and then disputing the charge with their bank. They're asking me to get there asap and it will take me at least a few days to get insurance, time off of work, and the cash in hand. Is there anything I can do/say/offer that I'm not aware of to work around this and ensure the vehicle is reserved in my name in the meantime? First time buying a vehicle on my own so I don't know what I don't know :) TYIA

I am about to purchase a RAV4. Contacted a few dealerships and a few got back to me with a price. Gave my card info to one dealer to put a deposit on one that I liked at a price I liked. But oddly enough they didn't charge me, she said they don't charge me until it gets to the lot or something. Kind of confused on the details. So I was supposed to get a call from the salesman. He called but didn't go over anything regarding the new car I was looking at he just asked me if I wanted a different one since it would be there earlier. I said no thank you. Long story short I sent out another email and said is this car mine do I need to do anything else. She said no and assured me it's reserved for me. Do I believe this? Ime really nervous bc there was no deposit and no signing anything. Is this a sales tactic like they are going to actually sell it to someone else for a higher price if it comes along? I really want to make sure I am locked in here. I want this car and I am waiting a month and a half for it. Some dealers are already adding 2k over MSRP on my area and this is what I'm trying to avoid. How do I ensure this car is going to be mine and they don't end up selling it to another person? Thank you

Hi everyone, I wanted to try car sales, I'm currently making 125K a year working 60-70 hours a week in the rain, snow, fringed cold weather, I drive a car hauler delivering the cars to dealers, been doing this job for 10 years now, just tired of it, usually start at 2am till about 1pm less traffic this way, I get paid by the load usually make $400 a day some days more, not hourly pay, but honestly its terrible, Financially I have my home paid off, some retirement investments and about 100k for emergency fund, So I realize I will make much less but I'm okay with that, I have good people skills, I will talk to anyone, I have 12 years in the hospitality industry as well prior to being a driver, As far as work ethic I always give 100% I'm a hustler, I like to make money and maximize my pay regardless on what I'm doing for work, I understand dealer have different pay plans or scales, average work week is between 50-60 hours, Saturday a must, what else can you tell me about car sales, one thing I always wonder was say you have 10 sales associates, and 3 potential buyers walking the lot how does it work? a rotation, first come basics ? and the rest of the time is it usually following leads phone and emails etc. ? I know its probably not the best time to make a move likes, thank you for any information you can provide.

So I traded in a Subaru Impreza that I owed 15k on for a Subaru Crosstreck listed for 25k. My new loan comes out to 40k. How does the dealership get away with making me pay off TWO cars when they’re going to sell the Impreza for a profit already?

I found this 2006 infiniti g35 coupe for sale for $5,600 with 155k. I test drove it took it in for a pre purchase inspection and the car came back good with only a small exhaust leak.(Also the radio does not work) I come back to the dealer to talk about the price and he can only go as low as $5,000. But when I do the calculations for tax and title transfer and registration it brings the car right back up to its $5,600 sticker price after tax.

I'm just wondering if im getting fucked over or not. The dealership did mention the bought the car from another dealership for $5600 so I guess they are trying to break even on the purchase but im not sure.

Can anyone help me out?

I'm taking about the type of buyer that due to circumstance, lack of confidence, impatience, or ignorance; will walk into a typical dealership, barely test drive a new vehicle if they do it at all, and purchase it at MSRP or whatever the dealer wants no questions asked.

I’m interested in buying a new 2025 Toyota Camry LE with AWD, the convenience + cold weather packages, & floor mats which has a MSRP of about $33,500 + sales tax of around $2000. So $35k - $36k total.

I’d like to try to get it for around $32,000 out the door… I’d like to make an offer with $5000k down and finance $27k or trade in my Tacoma and add the $5k on top. KBB says the trade in value of my Tacoma is about $26,000. Any chance they accept either of those options?

Also I should mention they don’t have any Camrys spec’d the way I want available so they would need to source one. Do I even try?

Hopefully this is the right place as im looking to gain insight on my situation. NJ This past week I bought a used Acura. 2022. From a seemingly reputable dealership. Allegedly had new brakes and a “certification extended warranty until 100k”. The brakes were documented on the car fax sheet, and allegedly installed by their service department. By the time we finished the deal, it was late. 10pm ish. Next morning I take a look at brakes to find out that they in fact were not replaced. This was a major “selling point” for the salesman. The brakes are not in bad shape however it’s the principle. I call the salesman, he tells his boss, then he calls me. Basically tells me well we don’t have any money in this so I can’t give you new brakes but I can give you gift cards. So the service dept basically lied on the car fax and they charged me for it. Then I asked for my “warranty” paperwork because it was not in my copies. He emails the paperwork but it’s an unsigned document. I don’t remember signing it and I don’t have a copy. Tells me not to worry because it’s attached to the vin. So if i go to ANY dealership they can pull it up. Is this accurate? They’ve told me a few time I can bring the car back and originally I didn’t want to but now I feel like I getting taken on the warranty. Can anyone tell me from the managerial side if I’m being paranoid or if I have a reason to worry? Thank you in advance.