I used 1.5” square tubing, cut the edges, folded them in and welded them, and painted. However, I built it to 17’ as that’s what the stair front measures from bottom stair to top. Unfortunately the light switch was in the way because I didn’t test fit it. So my wife said to just go past the switch. I definitely don’t like it as it sticks up way too far so it’ll be coming back down and getting about 16” cut off. I also may repaint it with a flat paint.

My wife was inspired to get a new bookcase. I told her I could build one, I just needed to know what she wanted out of it. I had a crowded garage as a workspace and up close their are some part I could have fine tuned, but overall I'm proud. It stands 8ft tall and roughly 8ft across.

What do you guys think? Mad respect to my landscapers out there doing this every day.

My parents are re-doing the basement walls (painting), and the walls have years of mold on them. My dad and I used some mold killer and disinfectant and scraped the walls, and were wondering if there was anything else we could do to prevent more damage and hopefully keep water out.

The walls are cinderblock, and the house was built in the 70’s.

The photos are after spraying and scraping the walls.

In November, I had cracked grout going around the base perimeter of my shower. I removed the grout, and replaced it with this sealant. Now I noticed that the water is leaking into the floor of my closet that is on the other side of the closet. What did I do wrong?

A couple years ago I made this post to show off my first bathroom remodel. Well, today I'm back and proud to say that I just finished my second bathroom remodel and we're thrilled with the way it turned out. Everything about the bathroom is a huge improvement over the original bathroom from the 1960s (including the green bathtub and sink!)

Just like in the first bathroom remodel, we used a Swanstone Shower Surround for the bathtub walls - I wasn't quite as happy with the material this second time as I was the first time (I had to deal with some manufacturing defects). But now that it's installed, I have no complaints and have loved how easy it is to clean in the first bathroom. Hope you all like it!

I don't know what to do about this door. I can not get it to seal. It will be hard as can be around the lock, which is ugly i know. But loose at the bottom and top. You can see daylight around the edges. Its this super dense foam that has very little give. I've tried a few searches and I've not been able to find just what I should do to seal up the door way.

Is this something I can possibly fix myself? And what will stop this from occurring in the future? Is this why it looks like the brick was painted at one point? I'm guessing the salt and harsh winters aren't helping.

I’m looking for input on whether it’s smart (well, I don't care about smart--I just don't want to cause serious problems down the road) to modify the existing trusses in my detached garage/shed, which was built in the 1930s.

The structure is framed with 2x4 lumber. The trusses span approximately 18 feet. The current configuration is:

• Bottom chord: A single 2x4, nearly 18 feet long, spanning the width of the building (I know, I can't believe it either).
• Top chords: Also 2x4s that meet at a ridge and tie into 1x6 ridge board.
• King post: Present, made of 1x6.
• Two web members: Also 1x6 material, forming a basic triangular truss shape.
• The bottom chord does not sit directly on the top plate, but appears to be fastened to the top chords with two nails on each side and that's basically it.

My goal is to raise the bottom chord—essentially shortening it—to create more headroom in the garage/ shed. I guess my concern is that the bottom chords are used to keep the shed/ garage walls from bowing out... but maybe that's not really a concern, I'm just not sure.

I got this idea from this post here and this is sort of what I'm going for.

Any thoughts?

I want to repaint my kitchen cabinets and am looking into doing it myself. I've tried doing some research into the process but get conflicting results on which steps are optional vs necessary. I've been in the house about a year. The cabinets were painted white and that paint job is still in good condition. Which prep steps (degreasing, sanding, stripping, priming, etc.) are actually necessary under these conditions? I saw that a lot of guides started from finished wood instead of an existing paint job.

I have some duraforms hardware .. have anyone tried making duraforms with 3/4 plywood ??

Discoloration was there when the house was purchased and I was told it was likely from water damage that was fixed. Structural damage, something else? Something I can fix with plaster on my own? Had attic inspected twice for a leak in another area, no mention of water here. One mentioned attic not being properly vented causing the bathroom to build up steam in there, another says it vented fine.

TLDR: can I fix this crack on my own?

I stripped and sanded by hand this door but it's not accepting the finish well. It was very hard to sand all the detail work and I couldn't really get all the paint off. The finish matches the rest of the trim work well. Any tips?

Has anyone found that standard 2x4 studs of the 8’ (96”) variety were actually longer than advertised? I am in middle of a basement shelving project and almost 20% of the studs I picked up are between 96 1/4” and 96 1/2”

Sure, I can and did fix them for the studs that mattered, but it was a strange inconsistency that I’ve never seen before. My local home improvement store studs have always been the exact length they said they would be.

Strange.. curious if anyone else has seen this before.

Ok so I got my ac replaced last year around November. I I turned on the ac this year already since it’s pretty warm and to my surprise it works amazing but seems to be over working do to having an old fan vent that leads to the attic and well it’s sucking all the hot air from the attic through the hole. I don’t use that fan no more so it’s just sitting. While I get it patched professionally, I wanted to use a piece of plywood to seal it so it doesn’t pull the hot air back in. Would plywood be a really good seal for the time being. I would buy some type of gasket so it presses tight. Someone recommended particle board but I’m not convinced. Anyone thing plywood is good enough? Any recommendations thanks

Been at this for 2 hours. Using a scorer, fabric softener solution and a scraper. Please send me tips for a more effective way to

Hi, my wife wants me to build recessed bookshelves in our office wall. My question is how much can I modify vertical studs to add in long horizontal book shelving? I am fairly handy with woodworking, and have plenty of tools and know how to get the execution part done. I just don't have any formal knowledge in home structural weight. Or is the best option here just to lose 12” of one side of the room and build out? Thanks for any help.

I want to start sanding, but some of it is still sticky. I just tried to use paint thinner to remove the goo, so I can start sanding. I don’t think it made a big difference. Need encouragement and advice. I have spent three weekends working on this.

Hi all, we noticed our ceiling leaking downstairs and determined it was coming from the shower. I pulled the floor tile off and found the plywood underneath was soaking wet. Is it possible to replace just the floor of the shower without tearing out the wall tiles? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I got a 10x16 shed built so I can work in it year round. The floor, walls, and ceiling are all spray foamed. Problem is it's 85 degrees in summer and they spray foamed over the 2 vents. Would clearing those help cool it down a bit?

Hello there!

I am wanting to repurpose some bookshelves we've had for a few years by stacking them on top of each other for my kids closet. One of them is wider and taller than the other. My plan was to attach fence pickets to the back via glue and a nail gun. Would this sufficient in strengthening them or would it be best to use pressure treated lumber?

I'm also planning on going around the backside of it with the same baseboard that we have going around the rooms, for more stability and to prevent spiders/rodents from potentially getting behind there.

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Long story short, had a ballast fail, and everyone told me to convert to direct wire LED, so I did. However,after connecting hot to one side, neutral other, I have no power and Sox extra wires that I can’t figure out what to do with.

In addition to the leads that connect to the sockets, there is a brown, a gray and a yellow wire conected to both sockets as well. These wires were connected to the ballast opposite of their connection to the sockets. I have been working in n this all AM and early afternoon.

The lights are in the laundry room with a switch in the hallway in the house proper and another in the garage.

First picture is fixture before ballast removal., and the second picture is the wire groups. Any advice would be very appreciated.

The screws in this door keep getting loose and then falling out. The metal hinge seems fine. It feels like the holes in the wood are loose. Are there any easy ways I might be able to fix it? I was thinking I would use the plastic screw holders like in the third picture, but I’m not sure if that’s the best solution, and I’m also not sure how to select the type and size I need. The door is made of wood, each piece of wood is 1.25 inches thick and the screws seem to be 5/8th inch long and 1/8th inch wide.

First time home buyer and new to home improvement. There was a rather large gap (1.5 inch) around the interior dryer vent hose. I just sealed the gap with great stuff foam insulation after seeing that this is a easy fix. I even saw in the companies usage documentation that dryer vent gaps is listed.

However, I also saw that this foam is combustible at 240 degrees. And the max temps for dryer exhaust can be as high as 200 degrees. Did I just create a huge fire hazard in my new house?

Hi all, how do I fix this damage to my apartment's wooden skirting, and protect it from future damage from the legs of my office chair?

I'm thinking wood filler with matching paint. If so, how do I match the colour of the paint exactly?

Photos of the damage: https://imgur.com/a/TYvt3Gi

Thanks!